colour-grade

Silk waste of good quality. It has good colour and is better grade than steam waste or China curlies.

(1) A coarse woollen cloth made from rough yarns and used for overcoats. The face is very shaggy to resemble a bear-skin. (2) A low grade heavy cotton fabric woven on the Continent also has the term Kalmuck applied to it. The cloth is woven on check looms in a low reed with strong grey cotton warp and two colours of weft. Only one colour appears on each side. Rather soft spun yarn is used for the weft and the fabric is raised on both sides. Construction 36 ends and 50 picks per inch. 16's warp hard spun and 4's to 6's weft. (3) Also low quality plain weave cotton cloth made in Persia.

The best grade of rashuina wool from Changthan, usually white in colour.

The hair obtained from the Angora goat, and is grown chiefly in Turkey, South Africa, the U.S.A. and Australia. It is lustrous white, fine, wavy and long. The length varies from 4-in. to 10-in. and spins from 28's to 50's quality. It has no felting properties. That from the U.S.A. is much lower in quality than the others, having about 15 per cent more kempy fibre. Mohair is chiefly used in braids, felt hats, linings, plushes, etc., and the coarser kinds for carpets and low-grade woollen fabrics. ———————— The hair or wool of the goat of that name. More generally known as mohair. The animal originally had its home in Asia Minor. About 1858 it was introduced into Cape Colony, from which country we now get a large supply. The natives of Asia Minor made shawls from the wool, which resembled Cashmere shawls. In colour it is white, average length of hair is 6 to 8 inches, and- has a curly structure. It is a very useful fibre, and largely used by the manufacturers of Astrakhan, wool crepons, plushes and cashmeres; also used in many silk cloths. The French use the fibre in a cloth named "poil de chevre", which has a fine spun silk coloured warp and angora weft. Bradford -imitates this cloth with a fine cotton warp. It has more lustre than wool, but is not so warm. Sir Titus Salt, by introducing the manufacture of goods made from mohair into Saltaire, raised Saltaire into a town from a village.

Recovered wool fibres obtained from wool rags, cuttings, and other wool waste. It is low grade and the fibres are usually less than 1-in. It is used as weft with cotton warps for cheap blankets and other fabrics. The method of manufacturing mungo and shoddy are the same; the processes consist in dusting, sorting, seaming, oiling, and grinding. Dusting is largely a hygenic process. Sorting is in accordance with either quality or colour, or both. Seaming refers to the taking out of every little bit of cotton thread, which would otherwise cause " flecked " pieces. Oiling is to assist gliding of the fibres on one another during spinning. Grinding refers to the teasing out of the fibres, so that as much as possible of the original length of staple shall be retained.

Silk yarns are composed of a number of silk filaments twisted together, usually 8 to 12 to form a thread. The filaments have a natural coating of gum which gives strength and elasticity, but reduces lustre. The gum must be boiled off if lustre is wanted, which may be done either in the yarn state or when woven in cloth. Silk yarns are divided into two classes, " thrown silk" and " spun silk," the first being yarns that are made by the processes of reeling and throwing, and the second consisting of yarns spun from waste silk. Thrown Silk, or Net Silk comprises organzine and tram yarns, organzine being made from the most perfect cocoons and used for warps. Tram is made from the inferior cocoons and used as weft. All silk contains a proportion of natural gum, and the amount of gum removed give rise to the following terms: - Boiled-off Silk - Yarn which has had all the gum removed, and has the highest sheen (see Boiled-off). Hard Silk - Yarn that has not undergone any boiling-off process. Ecru Silk - Yarn boiled to remove about 3 per cent to 5 per cent of the gum by light washing in lukewarm water. Souple Silk - Yarn boiled to remove about one-sixth of the gum. Bengal Silk - See Bengal Silk. Berlin Silk - A silk yarn made for fancy hand work. It is produced by doubling from 4 to 8 twisted singles grege by a right-hand twist; then again doubling three of these with a left-hand twist. The thread is very round, smooth, and hard, also known as cordon-net. Blond Silk - A special silk yarn made by doubling three grege threads left-hand twist, then doubling three of these together with right-hand twist. Brights - Silk which has been entirely de-gummed in the skein and then dyed. Bourette, Bourrette Yarn - A low grade of silk yarn made from the waste produced by schappe spinning. Canton Silk - See Canton Silk. Chiffon Twist - Single raw silk threads, 50 or more turns per inch. Used for chiffons, crepe-de-chines, etc. Crepe-de-Chine - Hard twist tram silk, about 40 to 70 turns per inch. Made from 3 to 5 raw silk ends. Usually woven as weft. Crepe Georgette - Hard twist raw silk usually made from two threads 13/15 deniers, 50 or more turns, both right and left twist, used for crepe georgettes as warp and weft. Crepe Twist - This is tram silk hard twisted, having from 30 to 100 turns per inch. Used for making fabrics of a crepe character both all silk and mixtures. Cordonnet Silk - See Berlin Silk; also under Cordonnet. Eri Silk - A raw silk obtained from the wild silkworm " Attacus ricini." Flock Silk - A general term used to indicate silk yarns made from the outer uneven parts of the cocoon. Floss Silk - Used principally for embroidery purposes. It is a thrown silk and made by doubling two thick raw singles with right-hand twist together with a left-hand twist. Galette Silk - A coarse silk yarn made from waste. Grenadine Silk - Organzine silk with a large number of turns per inch. Jaspe Silk - Silk warps printed in the hank. Ombre Silk - Skein dyed yarn in a gradation of shades, which run in sequence of depth of colour, varying from five up to forty shades. Schappe Silk - A spun silk yarn which is made from silk degummed by the maceration process used on the Continent (see Schappe Silk). Soie Ondee - See Soie Ondee. Silk Yarns - In addition to the foregoing yarns see under the following terms for further silk yarns: - Cable, Cevennes, Chappe, Chine, Clochepeid, Crocheting, Crue (see Ecru), Cuite Cusier, Cusirino, Degummed, Docken, Doup-pion. Ecru, Embroidery, Etschingo, Filature, Filature a 1'Europeune, Filet, Florette, Fringe, Goffered, Grege, Gum Hainin, Hard, Kahing, Knitting, Lousy, Marabout, Maybasch, Melange, Mele, Mi-cuit, Minchcw, Nett, Noil, Organzine, Ouvrees, Oval, Pearlina, Pel, Pelo, Poie, Pure dye Silk, Raw (see Grege), Re-reels, Retorse, Senegal, Sewing, Simonita, Soft Singles, Soie Ondee, Souple, Spun, Steeped, Strafilato, Stumba, Thrown, Tors San File, Tram, Tramette, Tsatlees, Tussah, Twist, Washed, Zaguri.