silk+yarns

See Silk Yarns.

Raw silk yarns imported from North China, of superior quality, white colour, very uniform in size. Derived from Bombyx Mori. Also applied to plain weave silks of China.

See silk yarns.

A French term for silk yarns into which coloured nubs or slubs are introduced. Also warp yarn printed in the hank.

A general term for imitations of native Indian cloths, made with the jacquard harness in fancy checks, stripes, shot effects and figured weaves. All-silk yarns are used.

A variety of crepe-de-Chine, made in Japan. It is made of spun silk yarns arid sold by weight.

(See knitting). All yarns used for knitting are termed hosiery yarns in Leicester, but in America only yarns actually used for knitted footwear come under this term. These yarns are much softer than required for weaving. Miscellaneous Yarns - Goat wools, such as llama and alpaca are employed in spinning. yarns for the knitting trade. Vicuna and camel yarns are used to a limited extent. Ramie yarn is specially employed for knitting gas mantle fabrics. Soft spun flax yams have been used for making underwear fabric. Chenille and other manufactured threads are used to a small extent in warp knitting. Composite yarns, such as union yarns - spun from a mixture of wool and cotton fibres; cordon yarns - cotton and worsted singles, doubled together; wool and rayon or spun silk, cotton and rayon or spun silk are largely used to produce self or two-colour effects. Fancy yarns, such as slub yams, voiles, and curled and loop yarns are also employed. Hosiery Yarns (Cotton) include condenser, hosiery, condenser lisle thread, mercerised and sewing cottons. Condenser yarns are spun in coarse counts from low-grade cotton, Indian and American. They are carded, condensed and mule spun, and possess little twist. Hosiery cotton yarns vary considerably in counts and qualities, practically all varieties of Indian, American and Egyptian being used in varying proportions to obtain suitable mixture for quality and price. Cheaper yarns are carded and mule spun. American and Egyptian cotton yarns are combed mainly with the object of removing seed particles. High-class Egyptian and Sea Islands cotton yarns are super-combed. The chief features of a hosiery cotton yam should be: (1) Regularity; (2) cleanliness; (3) fullness. Regularity prevents the making of cloudy fabric, showing thick and thin places. Cleanliness is essential, as the seed particles clog the eyelet hole in the yam guides and cause breakages. Fullness is desirable to cover the loop interstices. Elasticity and pliability are quite as essential as tensile strength. Yams are usually soft spun and if two-fold soft doubled, average twists in two-fold being 2/10's 6¹/₂T., 2/20's 8¹/₂T., 2/30's 10T., 2/40's 16T., 2/80's 20T. Softer twist less 25 to 30 per cent of average (T= turns per inch). Lisle thread is a comparatively hard-twisted and doubly-gassed thread in which there are no projecting fibres. It is always of a two-fold character, and the doubling twist varies from 24 to 34 turns per inch in 2/60's. It is used largely in the manufacture of ladies' hose tops and feet and for lace hosiery. Mercerised yams are used largely in the fancy trade, a comparatively soft twist again being employed. Sewing cottons for seaming, linking and making-up are specially prepared in two to six cord open and reverse twist. Woollen and Worsted Yarns include lamb's wool, wheeling, skein yarns, gala yams (woollens), worsted, crossbreds, fingering, cashmere, dry spun botany (see under each name). Worsted and crossbred yarns of various qualities are used. These yams are spun softly with " hosiery twist." The drawing may be open, cone or French, and the spinning may take place on cap, ring or flyer frames. The chief essentials of hosiery yarn are softness of fibre, fullness, minimum of twist consistent with the requisite tensile strength, regularity, pliability and elasticity. Cashmere Yarns, as used in the knitted goods industry, are spun from short, loose and weak wools as well as from better qualities by French drawing and mule spinning. A small proportion of real cashmere is used for outer garments. In recent years nylon yarns have been largely employed.

The unreelable portions of silk cocoons, and waste from silk throwing mills, etc. It is spun into yarns of two entirely different characters. The waste silk is carefully combed on specially designed machines, each successive combing yielding shorter fibre length than the previous one. These drafts are spun, usually on ring frames, into high grade yarns. The very short waste or noils remaining when the best fibre has been used are spun into coarse counts on the woollen principle, and on the Continent this class of yarn is known as schappe silk.

Ordinary cotton yarn has a fairly large amount of short fibre on its surface. It is the object of gassing to burn off the projecting fibres by passing the yarn several times through a gas flame or over an electrically-heated surface. Many single yams are gassed and two-fold yarns are thus treated when required for voiles, poplins, Venetians, etc. Yarns for mixing with silk yarn for lace singles, and double spun work, embroidery yarns from 2/6's upwards, yarns for mercerising, etc., are all gassed. The process renders the yarn darker in colour, and there is a loss of weight in gassing yarn which depends on the proportion of fibre burnt off. The loss varies from 5 per cent to 10 per cent, so the doubler uses 36's single for 2/40's, 54's for 2/60's, and 72's for 2/80's yarns.

See Effect Yarn. ———————— (See Yarns). In addition to fancy coloured yarns there are varieties of specially spun or twisted yarns. See under the following terms: - Bead, Boucle, Bourette, Cable, Chenille, Cloud, Corkscrew, Crape, Curl, Diamond or Chain, Gassed, Genapped, Gimp, Grandrelle, Knickerbocker, Knop, Loop, Marl, Mottle, Permo, Reany, Ruffle Wool, Slub, Snarl, Spiral, Spot, Twist-on-Twist.

A 4-shaft twill in all silk, of light make; raw silk, or grege yarns, are used for warp and schappe silk weft. Also known as Levantine, and is imitated under this term in cotton.

This is a silk yarn made from silk noil which is the short waste remaining after the production of spun silk. The yarns are much thicker and more knotty than other silks. The fabrics manufactured from the yam are rough and harsh to the handle and have no gloss, but are dull finished.

The original, "gimp" had a centre core of fine wire or strong twine with silk twisted around it. Modern gimp yarns usually consist of a central or foundation thread or threads, with one or more threads twisted around it. The outside threads are often coloured, as well as coarser, than the foundation thread; through the gimp thread being delivered at a quicker rate it is caused to wrap around the foundation thread in the form of a spiral. A final binding thread, usually fine, is twisted in the opposite direction to bind the spirals in position.

A half-silk fabric, silk warp and cotton or woollen weft, plain weave. Originally used for dusters, but now made for umbrella cloths. Requires very careful weaving since faults are plainly shown when finished. A cotton Gloria is woven in 3 & 1 twill from super Egyptian yarns, such as 36's warp, 34's weft, 80 ends and 90 picks per inch. For this cloth the weft is rewound to ensure regular weaving.

All-silk fabric woven on hand looms at the latter part of the 19th century in Nepal. The warp and weft are spun yarns of long staple from the silk of the cocoons of the Atlas silkworm.

Soft, fine, undressed East Indian silk dress goods, made plain, dyed or printed, mostly in floral patterns. All are 34-in. wide and cultivated silk is used for the yarns.

The term given to silk yarn which forms the basis for tinsel yarns. It has 8 to 10 threads of raw silk loosely twisted together.

Yarn used as the basis for tinsel yarns and spun from silk waste. This word is Italian for above yarn used for gold and silver fabric manufacture, and is made up of from 8 to 10 strands. Also known as Pel silk.

Raw silk that has been doubled and twisted into yarns of various sizes in preparation for the loom. The principal classes of thrown silk are tram, organzine and singles.

A plain weave silk cloth, woven from ecru yarns in many qualities. The finish is such that the character of the yarn is not altered.