-
61 Cartwright, Revd Edmund
[br]b. 24 April 1743 Marnham, Nottingham, Englandd. 30 October 1823 Hastings, Sussex, England[br]English inventor of the power loom, a combing machine and machines for making ropes, bread and bricks as well as agricultural improvements.[br]Edmund Cartwright, the fourth son of William Cartwright, was educated at Wakefield Grammar School, and went to University College, Oxford, at the age of 14. By special act of convocation in 1764, he was elected Fellow of Magdalen College. He married Alice Whitaker in 1772 and soon after was given the ecclesiastical living of Brampton in Derbyshire. In 1779 he was presented with the living of Goadby, Marwood, Leicestershire, where he wrote poems, reviewed new works, and began agricultural experiments. A visit to Matlock in the summer of 1784 introduced him to the inventions of Richard Arkwright and he asked why weaving could not be mechanized in a similar manner to spinning. This began a remarkable career of inventions.Cartwright returned home and built a loom which required two strong men to operate it. This was the first attempt in England to develop a power loom. It had a vertical warp, the reed fell with the weight of at least half a hundredweight and, to quote Gartwright's own words, "the springs which threw the shuttle were strong enough to throw a Congreive [sic] rocket" (Strickland 19.71:8—for background to the "rocket" comparison, see Congreve, Sir William). Nevertheless, it had the same three basics of weaving that still remain today in modern power looms: shedding or dividing the warp; picking or projecting the shuttle with the weft; and beating that pick of weft into place with a reed. This loom he proudly patented in 1785, and then he went to look at hand looms and was surprised to see how simply they operated. Further improvements to his own loom, covered by two more patents in 1786 and 1787, produced a machine with the more conventional horizontal layout that showed promise; however, the Manchester merchants whom he visited were not interested. He patented more improvements in 1788 as a result of the experience gained in 1786 through establishing a factory at Doncaster with power looms worked by a bull that were the ancestors of modern ones. Twenty-four looms driven by steam-power were installed in Manchester in 1791, but the mill was burned down and no one repeated the experiment. The Doncaster mill was sold in 1793, Cartwright having lost £30,000, However, in 1809 Parliament voted him £10,000 because his looms were then coming into general use.In 1789 he began working on a wool-combing machine which he patented in 1790, with further improvements in 1792. This seems to have been the earliest instance of mechanized combing. It used a circular revolving comb from which the long fibres or "top" were. carried off into a can, and a smaller cylinder-comb for teasing out short fibres or "noils", which were taken off by hand. Its output equalled that of twenty hand combers, but it was only relatively successful. It was employed in various Leicestershire and Yorkshire mills, but infringements were frequent and costly to resist. The patent was prolonged for fourteen years after 1801, but even then Cartwright did not make any profit. His 1792 patent also included a machine to make ropes with the outstanding and basic invention of the "cordelier" which he communicated to his friends, including Robert Fulton, but again it brought little financial benefit. As a result of these problems and the lack of remuneration for his inventions, Cartwright moved to London in 1796 and for a time lived in a house built with geometrical bricks of his own design.Other inventions followed fast, including a tread-wheel for cranes, metallic packing for pistons in steam-engines, and bread-making and brick-making machines, to mention but a few. He had already returned to agricultural improvements and he put forward suggestions in 1793 for a reaping machine. In 1801 he received a prize from the Board of Agriculture for an essay on husbandry, which was followed in 1803 by a silver medal for the invention of a three-furrow plough and in 1805 by a gold medal for his essay on manures. From 1801 to 1807 he ran an experimental farm on the Duke of Bedford's estates at Woburn.From 1786 until his death he was a prebendary of Lincoln. In about 1810 he bought a small farm at Hollanden near Sevenoaks, Kent, where he continued his inventions, both agricultural and general. Inventing to the last, he died at Hastings and was buried in Battle church.[br]Principal Honours and DistinctionsBoard of Agriculture Prize 1801 (for an essay on agriculture). Society of Arts, Silver Medal 1803 (for his three-furrow plough); Gold Medal 1805 (for an essay on agricultural improvements).Bibliography1785. British patent no. 1,270 (power loom).1786. British patent no. 1,565 (improved power loom). 1787. British patent no. 1,616 (improved power loom).1788. British patent no. 1,676 (improved power loom). 1790, British patent no. 1,747 (wool-combing machine).1790, British patent no. 1,787 (wool-combing machine).1792, British patent no. 1,876 (improved wool-combing machine and rope-making machine with cordelier).Further ReadingM.Strickland, 1843, A Memoir of the Life, Writings and Mechanical Inventions of Edmund Cartwright, D.D., F.R.S., London (remains the fullest biography of Cartwright).Dictionary of National Biography (a good summary of Cartwright's life). For discussions of Cartwright's weaving inventions, see: A.Barlow, 1878, The History and Principles of Weaving by Hand and by Power, London; R.L. Hills, 1970, Power in the Industrial Revolution, Manchester. F.Nasmith, 1925–6, "Fathers of machine cotton manufacture", Transactions of theNewcomen Society 6.H.W.Dickinson, 1942–3, "A condensed history of rope-making", Transactions of the Newcomen Society 23.W.English, 1969, The Textile Industry, London (covers both his power loom and his wool -combing machine).RLHBiographical history of technology > Cartwright, Revd Edmund
-
62 krümmen
I v/t bend; Katze etc.: (den Rücken) arch; Finger, HaarII v/refl Straße: curve, bend; Fluss: bend; über längere Strecke: be very windy, wind its way; Fluss: auch meander; Holz, Blech: warp; Wurm: wriggle; sich krümmen vor (+ Dat) fig., Schmerzen, Lachen: double up (Am. over) with; Zustand: be doubled up ( oder convulsed) with; sich vor Verlegenheit krümmen squirm with embarrassment; gekrümmt* * *to hunch; to curve; to crank;sich krümmento writhe; to double up; to curve* * *krụ̈m|men ['krʏmən]1. vtto bendSee:→ Haar2. vrto bend; (Fluss) to wind; (Straße) to bend, to curve; (Wurm) to writhe; (Mensch) to double upsich vor Lachen krümmen — to double up with laughter, to crease up (inf)
* * *2) (to (cause to) bend or collapse suddenly at the waist: We (were) doubled up with laughter; He received a blow in the stomach which doubled him up.) double up3) (to bend (especially one's finger) into the shape of a hook: She crooked her finger to beckon him.) crook4) (with one's back and shoulders bent forward: He sat hunched up near the fire.) hunched up* * *krüm·men[ˈkrʏmən]I. vt1. (biegen)▪ etw \krümmen to bend sthden Rücken \krümmen to arch one's backdie Schultern \krümmen to slouch one's shoulders2. MATH, PHYS▪ gekrümmt curvedII. vr1. (eine Biegung machen)2. (sich beugen)3. (sich winden)* * *1.transitives Verb bend2.reflexives Verb writhesich vor Schmerzen/in Krämpfen krümmen — double up with pain/cramp
* * *B. v/r Straße: curve, bend; Fluss: bend; über längere Strecke: be very windy, wind its way; Fluss: auch meander; Holz, Blech: warp; Wurm: wriggle;sich krümmen vor (+dat) fig, Schmerzen, Lachen: double up (US over) with; Zustand: be doubled up ( oder convulsed) with;* * *1.transitives Verb bend2.reflexives Verb writhesich vor Schmerzen/in Krämpfen krümmen — double up with pain/cramp
* * *v.to bend v.(§ p.,p.p.: bent)to crank v.to crook v.to curve v.to hump up v.to warp v.to writhe v. -
63 jouer
jouer [ʒwe]━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━➭ TABLE 11. <a. to play• à qui de jouer ? whose go is it?• à quoi joues-tu ? what are you playing at?• il a réussi en jouant sur les différences de législation he succeeded by exploiting differences in legislationc. [acteur, musicien] to play• il joue dans « Hamlet » he's in "Hamlet"d. ( = bouger) faire jouer un ressort to activate a springe. ( = intervenir) l'âge ne joue pas age doesn't come into it• ses relations ont joué pour beaucoup dans la décision his connections were an important factor in the decision• les distributeurs font jouer la concurrence the distributors are playing the competitors off against each other• il a fait jouer ses appuis politiques pour obtenir ce poste he made use of his political connections to get this post2. <• on joue « Macbeth » ce soir "Macbeth" is on this evening► jouer + tour(s)b. ( = mettre en jeu) [+ argent] (au casino) to stake ; (aux courses) to bet ( sur on ) ; [+ cheval] to back• rien n'est encore joué ( = décidé) nothing is settled yetc. (Computing) [+ application] to play3. <► se jouera. ( = être joué)b. ( = être décidé) tout va se jouer demain everything will be decided tomorrowc. ( = se moquer) se jouer de qn to deceive sb* * *ʒwe
1.
1) Jeux, Sport to play [match, jeu, carte]; to back [cheval, favori]; to stake [argent]; to risk [réputation, vie]2) Musique to play [morceau, compositeur, disque]3) Cinéma, Théâtre [personne] to perform [pièce]; [personne] to act [Shakespeare]; [personne] to play [rôle]; [cinéma] to show [film]; [théâtre] to put on [pièce]4) ( incarner)
2.
jouer à verbe transitif indirectà quoi jouez-vous? — lit what are you playing?; fig what are you playing at?
jouer à qui perd gagne — to play ‘loser takes all’
jouer à la marchande/au docteur — to play shops/doctors and nurses
3.
jouer de verbe transitif indirect1) Musique2) ( se servir de)jouer de — to use [influence] ( pour faire to do)
4.
verbe intransitifc'était pour jouer, ne le prenez pas mal! — I/he etc was only joking, don't be offended!
2) ( pratiquer un jeu) to play; ( avec de l'argent) to gambleà toi de jouer! — ( au jeu) your turn!; fig the ball's in your court!
bien joué! — ( au jeu) well played!; fig well done!
j'en ai assez, je ne joue plus! — I've had enough, count me out!
3) ( traiter à la légère)jouer avec — to gamble with [vie, santé]; to put [something] on the line [réputation]; to play with [sentiments]
4) ( spéculer) to gamblejouer sur — to play on [crédulité, lassitude]; to speculate in [valeur boursière]
5) Cinéma, Musique, Théâtre [acteur] to act; [musicien, radio] to play6) ( produire des effets) [lumière, flammes, vent] to play ( sur on; dans in)7) ( intervenir) [argument, clause] to apply; [âge, qualification] to matterjouer en faveur de quelqu'un — to work in somebody's favour [BrE]
8) ( être mal ajusté) to be loose
5.
se jouer verbe pronominal1) Cinéma, Musique, Théâtre [musique] to be played; [film] to be shown; [pièce] to be performed2) Jeux, Sport [jeu, sport] to be played; [partie, rencontre] ( amicalement) to be played; ( avec enjeu) to be played out3) ( être en jeu) [avenir, sort, paix] to be at stakele sort des réfugiés va se jouer à la conférence sur la paix — the fate of the refugees hangs on the peace conference
4) ( triompher de)se jouer de — to make light of [difficulté]; to defy [pesanteur, gravité]; to make light work of [obstacle]
* * *ʒwe1. vi1) (= s'amuser) to playElle est allée jouer avec les petits voisins. — She's gone to play with the children next door.
2) THÉÂTRE, CINÉMA to actJe trouve qu'il joue très bien dans ce film. — I think he acts very well in this film.
3) (= avoir du jeu) [clef, pièce] to be loose4) (= se voiler) [bois, porte] to warp5) (= être en jeu) to come into play, to come into it6) (= parier) to gamble, to play for moneyjouer sur — to gamble on, to bet on
jouer de qch MUSIQUE — to play sth, fig (= tirer parti de) to use sth
Il joue de la guitare et du piano. — He plays the guitar and the piano.
jouer à qch (= pratiquer) [jeu, sport] — to play sth
Elle joue au tennis. — She plays tennis.
à toi de jouer — it's your go, it's your turn, figit's up to you now
2. vt1) MUSIQUE to play2) [partie, carte, coup] play3) [argent, réputation] to stake, to wager4) [pièce] to perform, [rôle] to play, [film] to showOn joue Hamlet au Théâtre de la Ville. — Hamlet is on at the Théâtre de la Ville., They're doing Hamlet at the Théâtre de la Ville.
C'est un très jeune acteur qui joue le rôle principal. — A very young actor is playing the lead role.
jouer la comédie fig — to put on an act, to put it on
5) (= simuler) [sentiment] to affect, to feignjouer un tour à qn (= faire une plaisanterie) — to play a trick on sb
jouer des tours à qn [mémoire] — to play tricks on sb
Ma mémoire me joue des tours. — My memory is playing tricks on me., [comportement] to backfire
Ce genre de comportement risque de lui jouer des tours. — This kind of behavior could well backfire on him.
* * *jouer verb table: aimerA vtr1 Jeux, Sport, Turf to play [match, jeu, partie]; to play [carte, couleur, atout]; to move [pièce d'échecs, pion de dames]; to back [cheval, favori]; to stake [somme, argent, objet]; to risk [réputation, vie]; partie mal jouée poorly played game; jouer carreau to play diamonds; jouer un cheval gagnant/placé to back a horse to win/for a place; jouons le dîner à la courte paille let's draw straws to see who pays for dinner; c'est joué d'avance it's a foregone conclusion; tout n'est pas encore joué the game isn't over yet; jouer le tout pour le tout to go for broke○; ⇒ pendable;2 Mus to play [morceau, compositeur, disque] (à on); jouer du Bach à la guitare to play some Bach on the guitar; concerto admirablement joué beautifully played concerto;3 Cin, Théât [personne] to perform [pièce]; [personne] to play [rôle, personnage]; [personne] to act [Shakespeare]; [cinéma] to show [film]; [théâtre] to put on [pièce]; l'auteur le plus joué de France the most frequently performed playwright in France; mon rêve est de jouer Figaro my dream is to play Figaro; faire jouer une pièce to stage a play; quel film joue-t-on au Rex? what film is showing at the Rex?; théâtre qui ne joue que de l'avant-garde theatreGB that only puts on avant-garde plays; ⇒ fille, scène;4 ( incarner) jouer les imbéciles to play dumb; jouer les innocents or l'innocent to play the innocent; jouer le désespoir/la surprise to pretend to be in despair/surprised; jouer les héros to take unnecessary risks.B jouer à vtr ind to play [tennis, échecs, roulette]; to play with [poupée]; to play [cowboy, Tarzan]; to bet on [courses]; à quoi jouez-vous? lit what are you playing?; fig what are you playing at?; jouer à qui perd gagne to play ‘loser takes all’; jouer à la marchande/au docteur to play shops/doctors and nurses; jouer au con◑ to play dumb; ⇒ souris.C jouer de vtr indD vi1 ( s'amuser) [enfant, animal] to play (avec with); allez jouer dehors, les enfants! go and play outside, children!; va faire jouer les enfants dans le parc take the children to play in the park; chat qui joue avec une souris cat playing with a mouse; on n'est pas ici pour jouer! we're not here to play games!; c'était pour jouer, ne le prenez pas mal! I was only joking, don't be offended!;2 ( pratiquer un jeu) to play; ( avec de l'argent) to gamble; jouer pour de l'argent to play for money; il joue dans l'équipe de Bordeaux he plays for Bordeaux; à toi de jouer! lit your turn!; fig the ball's in your court!; bien joué! ( au jeu) well played!; fig well done!; jouer gagnant/perdant to be onto a winner/loser; j'en ai assez, je ne joue plus! I've had enough, count me out!; arrête de jouer avec ton stylo/ta bague! stop fiddling with your pen/your ring!;3 ( traiter à la légère) jouer avec to gamble with [vie, santé]; to put [sth] on the line [réputation]; to play with [sentiments]; ne joue pas avec mon cœur don't play with my feelings;4 ( spéculer) to gamble; jouer en Bourse to gamble on the stock exchange; jouer gros/petit to gamble for high/small stakes; jouer le sterling à la baisse to sell sterling short; jouer le sterling à la hausse to take a long position on sterling; jouer sur to play on [crédulité, lassitude]; to speculate in [valeur boursière]; jouer sur les dissensions au sein d'un parti to play on disagreements within a party; ⇒ tableau;5 Cin, Mus, Théât [acteur] to act; [musicien, radio, disque, musique] to play; jouer dans un film to act in a film; dans quelle pièce/quel théâtre joue-t-elle? which play/theatreGB is she acting in?; jouer en mesure to play in time; le pianiste a joué devant/pour un public réduit the pianist played to/for a small audience;6 ( produire des effets) [lumière, flammes, vent] to play (sur on; dans in); une brise légère jouait dans tes cheveux/dans les branchages a light breeze played with your hair/in the branches;7 ( intervenir) [argument, clause] to apply; [âge, qualification] to matter; cet argument ne joue pas dans ce cas that argument doesn't apply ou mean much in this case; l'âge ne joue pas dans ce métier age doesn't matter in this job; les questions d'argent ne jouent pas entre eux money is not a problem in their relationship; les considérations qui ont joué dans ma décision the considerations that played a part in my decision; jouer en faveur de qn to work in sb's favourGB; jouer comme un déclic to serve as the trigger; faire jouer la clé dans la serrure to jiggle the key in the lock; faire jouer ses relations to make use of one's connections; ses relations n'ont pas joué comme prévu his/her connections didn't prove as useful as expected; faire or laisser jouer le marché to allow the free play of market forces;8 Mécan ( être mal ajusté) to be loose; le contrevent a joué et ne ferme plus the shutter has worked loose and won't close any more; l'humidité a fait jouer les boiseries the damp has made the panellingGB warp.E se jouer vpr1 Cin, Mus, Théât [musique, air] to be played; [film] to be shown; [pièce, auteur, compositeur] to be performed;2 Jeux, Sport [jeu, sport] to be played; [partie, rencontre] ( amicalement) to be played; ( avec enjeu) to be played out; le match s'est joué sous la pluie the match was played in the rain;3 ( être en jeu) [avenir, sort, paix] to be at stake, to hang in the balance; c'est l'avenir du pays qui se joue the future of the country is at stake ou hangs in the balance; le sort des réfugiés va se jouer à la conférence sur la paix the fate of the refugees hangs on the peace conference; le drame qui se joue dans le tiers-monde the drama which is being played out in the Third World; il va se jouer une partie décisive entre les deux firmes a decisive contest is going to be played out between the two firms;4 ( triompher de) se jouer de to make light of [difficulté]; to defy [pesanteur, gravité]; to make light work of [obstacle]; il a triomphé de tous ses concurrents/tous les obstacles comme en se jouant he triumphed over all his competitors/all obstacles without even trying.[ʒwe] verbe intransitif1. [s'amuser] to playjouer au ballon/au train électrique/à la poupée to play with a ball/an electric train/a dolljouer à la marchande/au docteur to play (at) shops/doctors and nursesil jouait avec sa gomme he was playing ou fiddling with his eraserjouer avec les sentiments de quelqu'un to play ou to trifle with somebody's feelingstu joues avec ta santé/vie you're gambling with your health/lifeil a passé sa soirée à faire jouer le chien avec la balle he spent the evening throwing the ball around for the dogjouer au golf/football/squash to play golf/football/squashjouer aux cartes/au billard to play cards/billiardsil joue à l'avant/à l'arrière he plays up front/in defencea. [aux cartes] (it's) your turnb. [aux échecs] (it's) your movejouer contre quelqu'un/une équipe to play (against) somebody/a teamne joue pas au plus fin avec moi! don't try to be smart ou clever with me!jouer à la Bourse to gamble on ou to speculate on ou to play the Stock Exchangejouer dans un film/une pièce to be in a film/a playnous jouons à l'Apollo en ce moment at the moment, we are playing at ou our play is on at the Apollobien/mal jouera. [généralement] to be a good/bad musicianb. [dans un concert] to give a good/bad performance, to play well/badlytu joues d'un instrument? do ou can you play an instrument?elle joue très bien du piano/de la clarinette she's a very good pianist/a very good clarinet player6. [intervenir - facteur] to be of consequence ou of importance ; [ - clause] to applyles événements récents ont joué dans leur décision recent events have been a factor in ou have affected ou have influenced their decisionil a fait jouer la clause 3 pour obtenir des indemnités he had recourse to ou made use of clause 3 to obtain compensationjouer pour ou en faveur de quelqu'un to work in somebody's favourjouer contre ou en défaveur de quelqu'un to work against somebody7. [se déformer - bois] to warp[avoir du jeu] to work loose8. [fonctionner]a. [pour ouvrir la porte] to turn a key (in a lock)b. [pour l'essayer] to try a key (in a lock)9. [faire des effets]une brise légère jouait dans ou avec ses cheveux a gentle breeze was playing with her hair————————[ʒwe] verbe transitifil joue un drôle de jeu he's playing a strange ou funny (little) gameb. JEUX good move!il joue d'énormes sommes he gambles vast sums, he plays for high stakes ou big money3. [risquer - avenir, réputation] to stakeil a très bien joué Cyrano/la fugue he gave an excellent performance as Cyrano/of the fuguea. [acteur] to play Brecht, to be in a Brecht playb. [troupe] to play Brecht, to put on (a) Brecht (play)ne joue pas les innocents! don't play the innocent ou don't act innocent (with me)!jouer l'étonnement/le remords to pretend to be surprised/sorry————————jouer de verbe plus prépositionjouer du couteau/marteau to wield a knife/hammerelle joue de son infirmité she plays on ou uses her handicap2. [être victime de]jouer de malchance ou malheur to be dogged by misfortune ou bad luck————————jouer sur verbe plus préposition[crédulité, sentiment] to play on (inseparable)————————se jouer verbe pronominal (emploi passif)[morceau de musique] to be played ou performed3. [être en jeu] to be at stake————————se jouer verbe pronominal intransitif1. [dépendre]l'avenir du pays se joue dans cette négociation the fate of the country hinges ou depends on the outcome of these negotiations3. (locution)————————se jouer de verbe pronominal plus préposition1. [ignorer] to ignore -
64 Alpaca (Extract Wool)
Alpaca "wool" weft is obtained by disintegrating fabrics made of mixture materials, and may contain animal and vegetable fibres. The term is also applied to a lustre fabric woven with a cotton warp and alpaca wool weft, plain weave. When dyed in solid colours it is cross-dyed, the cotton warp being dyed before weaving, and the piece is piece-dyed after leaving the loom. The warp is usually 2/80's Egyptian. The cloth wears well and not liable to gather dust, so is used for linings and men's summer coats. A typical cloth is woven 56-in., 72 X 70, 2/80/ 28's alpaca. The true alpaca is a long, white or coloured smooth hair obtained from the Auchenia paco of South America (see Alpaca Wool)Dictionary of the English textile terms > Alpaca (Extract Wool)
-
65 Armures
Besides the wool cloths (see Armure Wool) silk cloths are sold as armures under the following names - Louisine, Barathea, Ottoman and Royale, in fine yams and close weaving. A fabric known as Silk Armure is made in the 8-shaft satin weave, either plain or with small warp spots. It has a warp face and grege silk is used for both warp and weft. It is dyed and dull finished. -
66 Backed Cloths
A single texture cloth with extra threads of either warp or weft, generally inferior in quality to the face yarns, and woven so as to show only on the back. Used to add weight to the fabric. This allows a cloth to have a fine face weave, and yet be any desired weight. This principal is mostly used in the worsted trade, especially for trouserings, where a double fine worsted warp and weft are used for the face cloth, and a coarse single yam for padding. Also used for giving a cloth with face and back of different designs (see Weft, and Warp-backed Cloths) -
67 Beam
Warp Beam - The roller upon which the warp yam is wound, and fitted in the loom at the back. Cloth Beam - A roller fitted in the front of the loom, upon which the cloth is wound when woven. Breast Beam - Is a bar fixed in front of the loom with the purpose of acting as a guide for the cloth on to the cloth beam. Back Beam - Is a fixed bar at the back of the loom, which guides the yarn from the warp beam to the healds (see Back Beams) -
68 Blister Cloth
A fine woollen cloth, woven on the double-cloth principle with botany warp and weft for face and mohair warp and weft for back. The figuring produced by interchanging face and back is developed during finishing. The botany parts shrink and the mohair bulges on the face. Many qualities are made. One quality is made from 2/40's mohair and 2/60's botany yarns in both warp and weft. The yarns are one end mohair and one end botany. Practically all crimps and crepons are blister cloths (see Crimps) -
69 Builder Fabric
This is the cotton cloth on which the motor tyre maker places the greatest reliance for the wearing qualities of the finished tyre. There are two main varieties, the square woven or " builder fabric," in which the warp and weft threads are practically equal, and the " cord " fabric, which is also square woven, but wherein the warp only is relied on for the strength or any other stress-resisting qualities that may be required. The builder fabric is tightly woven, giving it a stiff, hard feel, and is a superfine " duck." The standard fabric is 171/4 oz. per square yard, composed for 22's or 23's warp and weft yarns, 11-fold single ply, the twist in the single 14 to 15 turns, and in the ply yarn 4 to 5 turns per inch; 23 X 23-ends and picks per inch. These are the " fabric tyres of commerce " (see Cord Tyre Fabric and Breaker) -
70 Chinchilla
An overcoating cloth made from long fibre wool, with a rough face, but is soft and warm. The roughness is produced by small tufts in the yarn. It is a double cloth in twill weave, about 56 in wide. One warp and the wefts are wool, and a stitching warp of cotton is used. Two or more wefts may be used according to the weight required. The yarn is spun trom 10 per cent white and 90 per cent black wool and the mixture must be perfect. The loom width is 731/2-in. The back cloth may be plain dye or in plaid effects. The stitching warp is usually worsted yarn (see cut Chinchilla) -
71 Dungarees
Cotton cloths, four-end twill weave, warp face, made from dyed warp and weft of heavy counts. Some qualities have a white or grey stripe down each selvedge. Really a denim with coloured weft instead of grey, and a blue warp. Made about 32-in. wide, 80 ends and 64 picks per inch, 16's T., 18's W. (see also Blue Dungaree and Dowgaree) -
72 Healds
This is a term applied to looped cords which are furnished with an eye in the centre and employed in looms for controlling the up and down movements of the warp threads. In the majority of cases there is a separate heald eye for each warp thread, and those healds which lift in the same manner are threaded on the same stave except in those cases where that would make the healds too crowded. In such cases the healds are divided on two or three shafts which may be tied together to lift as one if weaving conditions permit. Healds are formed by a knitting machine which is set to form the required number of heald eyes per inch on each stave, or in the case of spaced healds with the heald eyes arranged in the desired order on the stave. The yarns used may be cotton or worsted (see Hea'd Yarns). In knitted healds the eye is usually formed from the same yarn as the rest of the heald, but healds can be made with metal eyes. Metal healds are made of twisted wire galvanised or treated to be rustless, and formed with an eye in the centre for the warp thread and elongated upper and lower eyes for threading on flat steel bars that are secured to the heald staves proper at the top and bottom. Such healds are usually of the sliding type and eliminate the need for healds knit to pattern. Wire healds are also combined with knitting to give a prescribed number of eyes per inch. -
73 Lingette
LINGETTE, or SHADOW CLOTH (LINGUET)This is a warp satin produced by using stripes of regular and reverse twist and is very effective when white or dyed. The term is an American one and the cloth is known in Lancashire as " shadow striped warp satin." One quality is 35-in./90 yards 144 ends and 84 picks per inch. 60's E.T.,/70's E.W., usually combed warp (see Shadow Stripes) -
74 Shadow Cloth (Linguet)
LINGETTE, or SHADOW CLOTH (LINGUET)This is a warp satin produced by using stripes of regular and reverse twist and is very effective when white or dyed. The term is an American one and the cloth is known in Lancashire as " shadow striped warp satin." One quality is 35-in./90 yards 144 ends and 84 picks per inch. 60's E.T.,/70's E.W., usually combed warp (see Shadow Stripes)Dictionary of the English textile terms > Shadow Cloth (Linguet)
-
75 Pique
Sometimes abbreviated to P.K. See full pique and half pique. A type of seaming for gloves. ———————— Dobby cloths composed of two warps and two wefts. The face warp is lightly weighted, and weaves plain with the face weft. The back warp is heavily weighted, and stitches through the plain face cloth, according to a prearranged design. At the stitching points the face cloth is pulled down, causing the face to form an embossed surface. The second weft is used as wadding to make the raised figuring more pronounced. The face warp and weft are usually finer than those used for stitching and wadding and in the proportion of 2: 1, such as 2 ends 32's face 1 end 24's back. A popular cloth is made 40-in., 40/45 yards, 100 face 32's super Egyptian, 50 back 2/60's super American, 120 face picks 42's super Egyptian, and 64 wadding picks 18's super American. The finer piques are rather expensive. -
76 Satin De Chine
A medium heavy silk dress fabric closely woven in the 10-shaft warp satin weave and piece-dyed. The warp is grege and weft is tram silk. It is not so heavy as the duchesse mousseline. Used for dresses and linings. Imitations are made with cotton warp (see also Satin des Indes, Satin Alcyonne) -
77 Susi
SUSAI, SUSI, SUZIIndian terms for fine plain weave cotton fabric made in India, usually 40-in. wide, 60's warp, 52's weft. Lancashire mule spun yarns. There are narrow colour and white warp stripes, the colour, usually black, being tussah silk. The cotton warp and weft are bleached yarns. There are about 120 ends and 100 picks per inch. The fabric is made into garments for Mohammedan women. ———————— See Susai. -
78 viciar
v.1 to falsify.2 to debase, to butcher, to adulterate, to bastardize.* * *1 (corromper) to corrupt, lead astray2 (aire) to pollute3 DERECHO to vitiate, nullify4 (estropear) to spoil5 figurado (tergiversar) to twist, distort1 (enviciarse) to take to vice, become corrupted* * *1. VT1) (=corromper) to corrupt, pervert2) (Jur) to nullify, invalidate3) [+ texto] (=alterar) to corrupt; (=interpretar mal) to interpret erroneously4) [+ droga, producto] to adulterate; [+ aire] to pollute; [+ comida] to spoil, contaminate5) [+ objeto] to bend, twist; [+ madera] to warp2.See:* * *1.verbo transitivo1) < persona> to get... into a bad habit; <estilo/lenguaje> to mar2) (Der) to invalidate, vitiate (frml)2.viciarse v prona) personab) estilo/lenguaje to deteriorate* * *1.verbo transitivo1) < persona> to get... into a bad habit; <estilo/lenguaje> to mar2) (Der) to invalidate, vitiate (frml)2.viciarse v prona) personab) estilo/lenguaje to deteriorate* * *viciar [A1 ]vtA1 ‹persona› to get … into a bad habit2 ‹estilo/lenguaje› to mar■ viciarse1 «persona» to get into a bad habitse vició con el alcohol he became addicted to alcohol, he got hooked on drink ( colloq)2 «estilo/lenguaje» to deteriorate* * *
viciar ( conjugate viciar) verbo transitivo ‹ persona› to get … into a bad habit;
‹estilo/lenguaje› to mar
viciarse verbo pronominala) [ persona]: viciarse con algo to become addicted to sth
viciar verbo transitivo
1 (una persona) to get into a bad habit
2 (un ambiente) el aire de este cuarto está muy viciado, this room is very stuffy
' viciar' also found in these entries:
English:
debase
* * *♦ vt1. [persona] [enviciar] to get into a bad habit;[pervertir] to corrupt2. [aire] [de habitación] to make stuffy;[contaminar] to pollute3. [deformar] [tuerca] to ruin, to twist o bend out of shape;[zapato] to ruin, to spoil (the shape of); [proceso, sistema] to blight, to spoil4. [falsear] to distort, to twist;los enfrentamientos personales viciaron el debate personal animosities distorted the debate* * *v/t1 objeto twist2 sentido distort3 JUR invalidate4:viciar a alguien con algo get s.o. addicted to sth, get s.o. hooked on sth* * *viciar vt1) : to corrupt2) : to invalidate3) falsear: to distort4) : to pollute, to adulterate -
79 Reformer
BULL-HIDE, or REFORMERA very heavy cotton fabric woven on fustian looms. It has a warp face with a twill weave. Each warp-end floats over six picks. The cloth is pile finished. Much used for cheap hats (see Reformer) ———————— See Bullhide. A heavy cotton fustian fabric, woven on 8 shafts and 8 picks as seen in the illustration. The cloth is often beaver finished, and a good trade is done with a lamb-skin finish. There is a great number of picks per inch. -
80 Crape
CRAPE, CRAPINGSee crepe, crepons and crisp ————————CREPE (Fancy Crepe, Crape)Originally called crapes, and were always black and used for mourning purposes. It is a puckered or crinkled fabric. Special hard-twisted yarns are used, and when the cloth is washed or finished a crepe effect is produced which is permanent, due to the shrinkage of the special yarns. The cloths produced by what are termed crepe weaves do not pucker except when hard-twisted yarns are used (see Crepon). The following weave particulars are typical of true cotton crepes produced from crepe yarns in a plain weave and when finished the cloths shrink from 48-in. to 34/5-in. One has 48 ends and 42 picks per inch in the loom and gives 60 ends and 52 picks per inch finished. Warp and weft are 2/120's. The other is woven 38 X 46 in the loom and gives 56 X 60 finished, 100's warp and weft crepe yarns, with 2/80's colour. Both fabrics are picked two right and two reverse.
См. также в других словарях:
Warp — Warp, n. [AS. wearp; akin to Icel. varp a casting, throwing, Sw. varp the draught of a net, Dan. varp a towline, OHG. warf warp, G. werft. See {Warp}, v.] [1913 Webster] 1. (Weaving) The threads which are extended lengthwise in the loom, and… … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
Warp beam — Warp Warp, n. [AS. wearp; akin to Icel. varp a casting, throwing, Sw. varp the draught of a net, Dan. varp a towline, OHG. warf warp, G. werft. See {Warp}, v.] [1913 Webster] 1. (Weaving) The threads which are extended lengthwise in the loom, and … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
Warp fabric — Warp Warp, n. [AS. wearp; akin to Icel. varp a casting, throwing, Sw. varp the draught of a net, Dan. varp a towline, OHG. warf warp, G. werft. See {Warp}, v.] [1913 Webster] 1. (Weaving) The threads which are extended lengthwise in the loom, and … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
Warp frame — Warp Warp, n. [AS. wearp; akin to Icel. varp a casting, throwing, Sw. varp the draught of a net, Dan. varp a towline, OHG. warf warp, G. werft. See {Warp}, v.] [1913 Webster] 1. (Weaving) The threads which are extended lengthwise in the loom, and … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
Warp knitting — Warp Warp, n. [AS. wearp; akin to Icel. varp a casting, throwing, Sw. varp the draught of a net, Dan. varp a towline, OHG. warf warp, G. werft. See {Warp}, v.] [1913 Webster] 1. (Weaving) The threads which are extended lengthwise in the loom, and … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
Warp lace — Warp Warp, n. [AS. wearp; akin to Icel. varp a casting, throwing, Sw. varp the draught of a net, Dan. varp a towline, OHG. warf warp, G. werft. See {Warp}, v.] [1913 Webster] 1. (Weaving) The threads which are extended lengthwise in the loom, and … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
Warp net — Warp Warp, n. [AS. wearp; akin to Icel. varp a casting, throwing, Sw. varp the draught of a net, Dan. varp a towline, OHG. warf warp, G. werft. See {Warp}, v.] [1913 Webster] 1. (Weaving) The threads which are extended lengthwise in the loom, and … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
Warp-net frame — Warp Warp, n. [AS. wearp; akin to Icel. varp a casting, throwing, Sw. varp the draught of a net, Dan. varp a towline, OHG. warf warp, G. werft. See {Warp}, v.] [1913 Webster] 1. (Weaving) The threads which are extended lengthwise in the loom, and … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
warp — See warp, woof … Dictionary of problem words and expressions
warp — {{11}}warp (n.) threads running lengthwise in a fabric, O.E. wearp , from P.Gmc. *warpo (Cf. M.L.G. warp, O.H.G. warf warp, O.N. varp cast of a net ), from root *werp (see WARP (Cf. warp) (v.)). The warp of fabric is that across which the woof is … Etymology dictionary
warp knitting — noun see warp knit … New Collegiate Dictionary