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1 Corduroy
A term that is commonly known as 2 & 2 rib, or two ribs alternating on face and back of children's stockings. ———————— A strong cotton cloth used for suitings. It is cut pile fabric, and has hard-wearing qualities. The weave has a cord or rib surface with either round or flat tops, with pile formed by the weft. When woven with a twill back it is known as a " Genoa back," and when a plain back is used it is termed " tabby back " corduroy. Fabrics of this class are woven in the same way as velvets, except that the pile picks are bound by the warp so as to form straight lines of floats; thus producing a ribbed surface. After weaving, the material undergoes (before cutting) the same stiffening and liming process as velvets. Corduroys are made in many varieties, known as fine reed, eight shafts, thicksets, constitutions, cables, etc. (see Constitutionals). The illustration shows a corduroy design, wherein crosses show ground weaves and filled squares the pile picks. An illustration is given of the cloth with the pile cut. The ribs may vary from 12 to 1 per inch
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2 Amazon
A dress fabric woven from worsted yarns for warp and woollen for weft, either with the 2 X 1 warp twill or 5-end satin weave. The sett in the warp is much closer than in weft. The finish is a raised one. The illustration shows the 5-end satin design. One quality is made 40's worsted warp, 32's woollen weft, 80 X 40, per inch. Also made with wool warp and worsted weft in 5-end satin weave with twill running to the left. About 80 X 48, 2/60's warp, 40's worsted weft, from 45 to 56-in. The finish is nap raised and dress-face. Shrinkage about 12 per cent
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3 Applique
These fabrics are constructed by sewing two cloths together. The thread that binds is worked in some design, and, after stitching the top cloth, is cut away round the stitches, leaving the required portions stitched. to the lower cloth. The illustration gives an applique effect with plain cloth squares on a crepe ground. This is a handicraft process
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4 Back-Filled Finish
A system of finishing cloths without the finish appearing on the face. This is done on the " back-filling " mangle, which lays the starch or other finish on one side only and protects the other side. Cloths with a pattern, such as piques, coloured stripes, etc., are finished this way to give firmness and preserve the face (see illustration)
Dictionary of the English textile terms > Back-Filled Finish
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5 Ball Sizing
Consists of three processes, sizing, drying and beaming. Used for coloured warps or for grey warps about 24's and lower, that are to be heavy sized, such as for heavy domestics, Wigans, etc. This system gives a leather-like feel to the yam and cloth, and is much used in the Rochdale district. The yam is not flattened as it is in tape sizing. For coloured work it is very suitable, owing to the shorter length, various colours, etc. The warp, in the form of a rope, is taken through the size trough (passing under and over rollers at the bottom). The excess size is squeezed out and the warp dried by passing over hot cylinders, then wound on to the weaver's beam. This system is very suitable for short warps, but is more expensive than tape sizing. A sectional view of the machine is shown in the illustration. A is the ball warp, it passes through eyes C and C1 down to rollers D and E in size box R. Then around rollers F. These rollers are free to move in groove S, and they press the yarn from roller F1 to F9. From the sizing, the yarn is squeezed between G and H, passes round J and between J and K, where it is squeezed again on to a guide; roller L and into box M. From M the yarn is taken to a drying machine and, after drying, it is reballed. The screw N regulates the pressure put upon the size by roller K
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6 Balzarine Brocades
A cotton fabric produced by a jacquard, with gauze combined with figuring, in many qualities. One is 40-in., 84 X 92, 60's/56's, all Egyptian yarns. The designs are generally floral with a gauze ground all through. The illustration gives one cloth with a print effect on the brocade ground
Dictionary of the English textile terms > Balzarine Brocades
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7 Bang-Thro Prints
A term given to a style of designs printed so heavily that both design and colour show on the back as well as on the face. The copper roller is cut deeper than for ordinary printing in order to take up more colour. The illustration is an example (see also Pushing)
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8 Barley-Corn Weaves
A style of matt weave, giving small geometrical figures, on 6 X 6, 6 X 8, 8 X 8 ends and picks. Much used as ground weaves, because they give a firmness to the cloth. The illustration shows one weave, the 6 X 6Dictionary of the English textile terms > Barley-Corn Weaves
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9 Barrege
A mixture cloth of silk warp and wool weft with an open or gauze weave. Chiefly used as head coverings in religious ceremonies. Imitated recently with cotton warps, 64 X 52, 120's/90's botany. The illustration shows a cloth made 104 X 30 per inch, from a silk and fine worsted doubled warp and silk weft. The weft and worsted warp are dyed red, and the white silk warp gives a neat striping. Flaked yarn is often made use of for further effect
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10 Beaverteen
A heavy twill, all cotton, of about 2/18's warp, and 14's to 16's weft. Of the fustian variety, with an uncut pile, dyed tan or light-brown shades, has a short nap, and designed to stand hard wear as clothing. Usually woven two face to one back picks, and up to 300 picks per inch. The ends of warp vary up to 40 per inch. Besides the home trade for trouserings the cloth is shipped to most of the Colonies. Of the heavy fustian, the Imperial Sateen is the lightest weight, the Beaverteen the next, and the Moleskin is the heaviest. The illustration shows the weave, where crosses indicate the twill weave for the back. Another style is woven three face to one back, with a plain weave for back
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11 Bedford Cords
Fabrics having cords or ribs in the direction of the warp produced by interweaving the weft in plain or twill order with alternate groups of warp threads. The ribs may be emphasised by the addition of wadding or stuffing warp threads. Generally woven in dobby looms. All cotton, all wool or mixed. A standard cotton cloth is made 36-in., 144 X 100 per inch, 40's/50's, with 20's wadding ends. The diagram gives the weave. When the face ends X are weaving plain in one section, the face ends are lifted in the other section, this is for two picks, and then the weave is reversed. The plain ends are separated in the reed.
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Another cloth is made 30-in. from 24's warp, 36's weft, with every seventh cord made from coloured yarn. A heavy cloth is made for use as riding breeches in many qualities. Also made with wool yams. The illustration (A) shows a fancy Bedford cord for dress goods. There are ten padding cords to the inch, as shown by the broader cord stripes. These dress goods styles are made from a two-fold warp and single weft, all Egyptian yams. Fabric B is a three-colour fancy weave.
The term " London Cord " is given to a heavy cotton Bedford Cord, woven with a 2 X 1 twill face. One quality is 88 X 80 per inch, 16/20's. Frequently padding ends are used to give prominence to the cords. Bedford Cord shirtings are made from the 144 X 110 cloth, usually 33/34-in. and with coloured stripes
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12 Bengal Stripe Brocades
A cotton fabric woven with plain and twill ground and has stripes about 1-in. wide with small brocade figures - thus there is a bar of plain then a bar of figure. Quality varies, but generally low cloths are made, such as 43/120, 72 X 52, 36/26, 40-lb.; 43/120, 72 X 68, 38/40. Shipped to many parts of India (see illustration)
Dictionary of the English textile terms > Bengal Stripe Brocades
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13 Bengaline
A silk fabric with cords across the piece as in a poplin. The cords are of wool, cotton or silk. If all silk, known as Bengaline de Soie. A cotton bengaline is made of all cotton, with a 2/60's warp and 6's or 8's weft. A 32's fine weft is used as well. Mercerised finish (picking is one coarse, one fine). The weave is plain, and coarse yarn is used for ribs, and space between each rib has a finer weft. The real cloth has a silk warp and worsted weft - 13/15 denier to 20/22 denier warp, 2/40's worsted for fine picks, with a thick cabled worsted yarn for cords. They are sometimes figured, as seen in the illustration, which is woven with a plain cord ground. The yarns are all botany worsted, viz., 2/76's-warp and 56's weft, 45-in. cloth from 50-in. warp. The variety known as Bengaline Marquise has a spun silk warp and worsted weft
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14 Book Harness Muslin
A brocade figured fabric of the Madras muslin character. The ground is plain weave and the figuring is produced from coarse weft in detached figures. The floating weft from figure to figure is cropped off. Qualities vary from 48 X 40 to 60 X 56 ground weave. The weft is two fine picks ground, two coarse picks figure. Warp from 50's to 60's. Cord checks are produced by using thick cords in warp as well as weft, and these cords are floated as required, and after weaving, the floats cropped off. The illustration is of a cloth which is rather expensive, owing to the large amount of weft that is wasted
Dictionary of the English textile terms > Book Harness Muslin
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15 Boucle
An imitation astrakhan or cloth having knots, loops or curls on the surface. The illustration gives an example of the cloth 64-in., 19 X 16 per inch, 2's/8's worsted corkscrew warp, 41/2 drams per yard, woollen weft, 54-in. finished. The name is French for buckled. The term is rather loosely applied to all fabrics having curls, knots or loops on the surface
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16 Bourette
A fabric woven from the silk waste yarns of this name which gives a knotty and uneven surface. Plain weave, in coarse reed and pick of several qualities. Much used for men's and women's clothing, which are cheap but very durable
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A silk dress material in which a rough surface is produced by using lumpy knotted yams. The roughness is in both warp and weft and this forms the stripes and checks as seen in the illustration. Many qualities are also made from silk waste yams, very rough and knotty, in the plain weaves. -
17 Brighton Weaves
A honeycomb effect formed from a diamond style of weave of a more complex form than honeycombs. They are not reversible. The smallest pattern is on 8 X 8 ends and picks, and as many as 16 ends and picks are used. The illustration shows the 16-end weave. This weave produces ridges and hollows. -
18 Brightons
Woollen fabrics in the Brighton weave used for vestings. Silk spots are often introduced for ornament. The effect is a small honeycomb on the face. Rayon is now used largely in place of silk. The illustration shows the design for a cotton cloth in this weave on 8-shafts; 84 X 72 per inch, 32's/2/60's yarns
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19 Brilliantine
A dress cloth of cotton warp and lustre worsted weft; about 2/80's cotton, 24's worsted. Generally of a plain weave, but jacquard designs are sometimes used. A soft calender finish is put on the cloth. Another style is used for linings with a stiff finish in several qualities; plain weave, such as 72 X 72 per inch, 2/100's cotton warp and single 26's mohair weft, as shown in illustration. Glace Brilliantines have coloured cotton warps and undyed mohair weft. Pekin stripe Brilliantines are the Pekin stripe with mohair weft. The dress varieties are made 50-in. grey and give about 44/45-in. finished. The lining cloth is in several widths. -
20 Brocades
Originally meant a silk cloth with figuring threads of gold and silver. At the present time it indicates a figured fabric of single texture, with the figure developed or bound in a more or less irregular order, and the ground formed by a weave of a simple character. Cotton Brocades have only one warp and one weft. Silk and Upholstery Brocades may have several wefts of different colours. Name is derived from the Spanish " Brocade " (to figure). There are a great many qualities manufactured today. The illustration gives a dress-goods brocade of a super quality made from a silk warp and a super Egyptian cotton weft
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