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1 Rayon
A generic term applied to all fibres for textile use which are not of matural occurrence (Journal of the Textile Institute, March 1944). The following terms and definitions are given by the British Rayon Federation (March 1945): - Rayon Yarn - Continuous filament rayon yarn. Rayon Fabrics - Fabrics made from rayon yarn. Rayon Waste - Waste from rayon yarn. Spun Rayon Yarn - Yarn spun from rayon staple. Spun Rayon Fabrics - Fabrics made from spun rayon yarn. Spun Rayon Waste - Waste from rayon staple and from spun rayon yarn. -
2 Staple Rayon Fibre
Formerly this only referred to waste resulting from the processing of long filament rayon. Rayon staple fibre is now specially manufactured on a large scale similar to that for the making of long filament rayon up to the process of spinning, after which it is cut into staple lengths suitable for spinning either on cotton, woollen or worsted spinning machinery. Rayon staple fibre is produced in bright and dull qualities, and in various denier sizes. Usual sizes in commercial use in this country are 1.25 denier and 1.5 denier filament thickness and 17/8-in. and 17/16 -in. staple for spinning on cotton machinery or mixing with cotton; 3, 4.5 and 8 denier filaments of 3-in., 4-in., 6-in., and 8-in. staple for blending with wool.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Staple Rayon Fibre
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3 Chardonnet Rayon
A rayon yam made from cotton waste, which is converted into a nitro-cellulose stiff solution known as " collodion." The collodion is forced under pressure through small capillary tubes forming very fine threads, which solidify quickly when exposed to air. The threads can then be wound on bobbins. At this stage the threads are lustrous, but very inflammable, as it is chemically in the form of nitro-cellulose. The next process is to remove the nitro-groups by the operation termed denitration. The finished thread consists of regenerated cellulose. -
4 Stagger (Rayon Sizing)
A term used in rayon sizing to denote placing the bundles of yarn in the basket in rows in alternating fashion like the bricks in a wall.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Stagger (Rayon Sizing)
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5 Viscose Rayon Yarns
The commercial range of viscose rayon yarns extends from 50 denier to 1,000 denier as follows: -
Dictionary of the English textile terms > Viscose Rayon Yarns
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6 Tubular Rayon
See Celta. -
7 Fibres
The textile fibres of commerce are very numerous. They are usually placed in " three natural classes, vegetable, animal and mineral. The rayon filaments so far produced are all vegetable. " Vegetable fibres can be classified as follows: - Seed fibres, growing from the seeds or seed-capsules of certain plants, as cotton, Bombax, Asselepias, etc. Stem fibres, growing in the bast of certain plants, as flax, hemp, jute, etc. Leaf fibres, occurring in the leaves of certain plants, including New Zealand hemp, Manila hemp, etc. Fruit fibres, of which the sole member worth mentioning is the cocoanut fibre. Artificial fibres, represented by viscose, cellulose acetate, cuprammonium and nitrocellulose rayon. The chief fibres in the animal class are wool, silk, and the various kinds of animal hair such as camel, llama, angora, rabbit, horse, etc. The chief member of the mineral group is asbestos, a substance that resists the action of fire. Gold, silver and copper used in the making of tinsel yarns are not fibres as they do not require to be spun. Cellulose-Acetata Rayon - Filaments composed of an acetic ester of cellulose coagulated or solidified from its solution. Cuprammonium Rayon - Filaments composed of regenerated cellulose which has been coagulated or solidified from a solution of cellulose in ammoniacal copper oxide. Nitro-cellulose Rayon (Chardonnet) - Filaments composed of regenerated or denitrated cellulose which has been coagulated or solidified from a solution of nitrated cellulose. Viscose Rayon - Filaments composed of a regenerated cellulose which has been coagulated or solidified from a solution of cellulose xanthate. The preceding four definitions are proposed by the American Society for Testing Materials, Corn. D-13 -
8 Cross, Charles Frederick
[br]b. 11 December 1855 Brentwood, Middlesex, Englandd. 15 April 1935 Hove, England[br]English chemist who contributed to the development of viscose rayon from cellulose.[br]Cross was educated at the universities of London, Zurich and Manchester. It was at Owens College, Manchester, that Cross first met E.J. Bevan and where these two first worked together on the nature of cellulose. After gaining some industrial experience, Cross joined Bevan to set up a partnership in London as analytical and consulting chemists, specializing in the chemistry and technology of cellulose and lignin. They were at the Jodrell laboratory, Kew Gardens, for a time and then set up their own laboratory at Station Avenue, Kew Gardens. In 1888, the first edition of their joint publication A Textbook of Paper-making, appeared. It went into several editions and became the standard reference and textbook on the subject. The long introductory chapter is a discourse on cellulose.In 1892, Cross, Bevan and Clayton Beadle took out their historic patent on the solution and regeneration of cellulose. The modern artificial-fibre industry stems from this patent. They made their discovery at New Court, Carey Street, London: wood-pulp (or another cheap form of cellulose) was dissolved in a mixture of carbon disulphide and aqueous alkali to produce sodium xanthate. After maturing, it was squirted through fine holes into dilute acid, which set the liquid to give spinnable fibres of "viscose". However, it was many years before the process became a commercial operation, partly because the use of a natural raw material such as wood involved variations in chemical content and each batch might react differently. At first it was thought that viscose might be suitable for incandescent lamp filaments, and C.H.Stearn, a collaborator with Cross, continued to investigate this possibility, but the sheen on the fibres suggested that viscose might be made into artificial silk. The original Viscose Spinning Syndicate was formed in 1894 and a place was rented at Erith in Kent. However, it was not until some skeins of artificial silk (a term to which Cross himself objected) were displayed in Paris that textile manufacturers began to take an interest in it. It was then that Courtaulds decided to investigate this new fibre, although it was not until 1904 that they bought the English patents and developed the first artificial silk that was later called "rayon". Cross was also concerned with the development of viscose films and of cellulose acetate, which became a rival to rayon in the form of "Celanese". He retained his interest in the paper industry and in publishing, in 1895 again collaborating with Bevan and publishing a book on Cellulose and other technical articles. He was a cultured man and a good musician. He was elected a Fellow of the Royal Society in 1917.[br]Principal Honours and DistinctionsFRS 1917.Bibliography1888, with E.J.Bevan, A Text-book of Papermaking. 1892, British patent no. 8,700 (cellulose).Further ReadingObituary Notices of the Royal Society, 1935, London. Obituary, 1935, Journal of the Chemical Society 1,337. Chambers Concise Dictionary of Scientists, 1989, Cambridge.Edwin J.Beer, 1962–3, "The birth of viscose rayon", Transactions of the Newcomen Society 35 (an account of the problems of developing viscose rayon; Beer worked under Cross in the Kew laboratories).C.Singer (ed.), 1978, A History of Technology, Vol. VI, Oxford: Clarendon Press.RLHBiographical history of technology > Cross, Charles Frederick
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9 Brassiere Cloth
A fabric used for the corset trade, woven on dobby or jacquard looms, from super quality yarns and usually with stripes in the warp, from rayon or 2/40's mercerised cotton yarn. When rayon is used, the designs are such that no long floats are shown. A standard quality is 36-in. grey, 84 X 76 per inch, 22's weft, 28's cotton, 150 denier rayon (or 2/40's mercerised for 150 denier), piece-dyed in pink and other light colours. Another cloth shipped to U.S.A. is made 37-in., 92 X 68, 20's/20's super American yarns with rayon stripes and plain stripes alternating, 1/2-in. to 1-in. in width. -
10 Bevan, Edward John
[br]b. 11 December 1856 Birkenhead, Englandd. 17 October 1921 London, England[br]English co-inventor of the " viscose rayon " process for making artificial silk.[br]Bevan began his working life as a chemist in a soap works at Runcorn, but later studied chemistry at Owens College, Manchester. It was there that he met and formed a friendship with C.F. Cross, with whom he started to work on cellulose. Bevan moved to a paper mill in Scotland but then went south to London, where he and Cross set up a partnership in 1885 as consulting and analytical chemists. Their work was mainly concerned with the industrial utilization of cellulose, and with the problems of the paper and jute industries. Their joint publication, A Text-book of Paper-making, which first appeared in 1888 and went into several editions, became the standard reference and textbook on the subject. The book has a long introductory chapter on cellulose.In 1892 Cross, Bevan and Clayton Beadle discovered viscose, or sodium cellulose xanthate, and took out the patent which was to be the foundation of the "viscose rayon" industry. They had their own laboratory at Station Avenue, Kew Gardens, where they carried out much work that eventually resulted in viscose: cellulose, usually in the form of wood pulp, was treated first with caustic soda and then with carbon disulphide to form the xanthate, which was then dissolved in a solution of dilute caustic soda to produce a viscous liquid. After being aged, the viscose was extruded through fine holes in a spinneret and coagulated in a dilute acid to regenerate the cellulose as spinnable fibres. At first there was no suggestion of spinning it into fibre, but the hope was to use it for filaments in incandescent electric light bulbs. The sheen on the fibres suggested their possible use in textiles and the term "artificial silk" was later introduced. Cross and Bevan also discovered the acetate "Celanese", which was cellulose triacetate dissolved in acetone and spun in air, but both inventions needed much development before they could be produced commercially.In 1892 Bevan turned from cellulose to food and drugs and left the partnership to become Public Analyst to Middlesex County Council, a post he held until his death, although in 1895 he and Cross published their important work Cellulose. He was prominent in the affairs of the Society of Public Analysts and became one of its officials.[br]Bibliography1888, with C.F.Cross, A Text-book of Papermaking.1892, with C.F.Cross and C.Beadle, British patent no. 8,700 (viscose). 1895, with C.F.Cross, Cellulose.Further ReadingObituary, 1921, Journal of the Chemical Society.Obituary, 1921, Journal of the Society of Chemical Industry.Edwin J.Beer, 1962–3, "The birth of viscose rayon", Transactions of the Newcomen Society 35 (an account of the problems of developing viscose rayon; Beer worked under Cross in the Kew laboratories).RLH -
11 Benares
A furnishing fabric, cotton warp and cotton and rayon weft, in brocade designs. The cotton warp and weft are two-fold yams, rayon weft is Bulmerayon, cotton warp dyed, weft dyed another colour, picks 1 X 1 cotton and rayon. -
12 Crepes
These are made in many widths and qualities, and in cotton, wool, rayon, silk and combinations of these, such as cotton warp and rayon weft, rayon warp and silk weft, etc. In crepes dependent solely on the contractile power of highly twisted yarns for producing a wrinkled pebble or figure effect, the hard-twisted warps and wefts are used in various ways, as follows: - In each case R= right twist; L=left or reverse twist. Warp 2 R, 2 L, alternately. Weft all one twist. Warp 2 R, 2 L, alternately. Weft 2 R, 2 L. Warp all one twist. Weft 2 R, 2 L alternately. Warp 1 R, 1 L, alternately. Weft 2 R, 2 L, alternately. Other arrangements of warp and weft are also used. -
13 Electric Stripe
A cotton and rayon dress fabric, made with 76 ends and 72 picks per inch, 150 denier rayon weft, 2/80's colour 2/80's white warps. Dents are left empty at short frequent intervals among the coloured ends, and the rayon weft is floated over the spaces, forming lustrous stripes down the piece. The white ground stripes are 3 X 1 twill weave. -
14 Polonaise Lining
Mixture lining cloths in the 5-end satin weave in many qualities such as 124 ends and 60 picks per inch, 100 denier silk warp, 120 denier rayon weft. Lower qualities are made in the 1 & 2 and 1 & 3 weft twill weaves with cotton warp and rayon weft, about 40-in., 100 ends and 100 picks per inch, 52's Egyptian warp, 150 to 170 denier rayon weft. The cloths are piece-dyed. -
15 Sport Satin
This is a warp satin cloth woven from rayon warp and cotton weft. It is much used for dress wear. The rayon is bleached and ordinary cotton weft is used, piece-dyed, 40-in. grey, 37/8-in. finished, 84 ends and 60 picks per inch, 150 denier rayon warp, 32's cotton weft. The selvedge is the tape variety, 2/60's cotton. -
16 Viscose
Viscose was discovered by two English chemists, Charles F. Cross and E. J. Be van, working in collaboration at Kew, near London, who found that when cellulose was treated with disulphide of carbon in the presence of caustic soda, it was converted into a golden yellow plastic compound which dissolved readily in water. A solution of the plastic was of such viscosity that it was named " viscose," a name that was destined to become world famous, seeing that round about 88 per cent of the world production of rayon is now made by the viscose process. In 1892 Cross and Bevan were granted a patent on the viscose process and it was applied to many purposes before the production of a textile thread was successfully accomplished. Fundamentally, the manufacture of viscose rayon is fairly simple. The raw material may be wood pulp, pulp from cotton linters, or a mixture of the two. The greater part of the world's viscose is made from wood pulp. Viscose rayon manufacture comprises seven distinct treatments as follows: - 1. Making and purifying the cotton or wood pulp which forms the cellulose base. 2. Caustic soda treatment of the cellulose base thereby forming alkali cellulose. 3. Treatment of alkali cellulose with carbon disulphide, forming cellulose xanthate. 4. Dissolving the cellulose xanthate in weak caustic soda to form cellulose solution or viscose. 5. Spinning viscose into yarn. 6. Bleaching, purification and finishing of the yarn. 7. Preparing the yarn for weaving and knitting. -
17 Artificial Silks
ARTIFICIAL SILKS, "Art Silks"The term "silk" was at first applied to fabrics made of "artificial silk" but these yarns are synthetically produced and arc not silks at all. As the term "Rayon" is now being used to distinguish these manufactured yarns, a fairly complete list of the better known is given under "Rayon". -
18 Art Silks
ARTIFICIAL SILKS, "Art Silks"The term "silk" was at first applied to fabrics made of "artificial silk" but these yarns are synthetically produced and arc not silks at all. As the term "Rayon" is now being used to distinguish these manufactured yarns, a fairly complete list of the better known is given under "Rayon". -
19 Barry
This is a fault in woven fabrics that shows in bars either across or down the piece. It is especially fatal in artificial silk or rayon fabrics. To minimise this, two shuttles are used when weaving rayon fabrics. In the woollen industry a barry piece is one where finishing streaks are left either warp way or weft way. -
20 Bemberg Silk
A material wrongly described; actually a form of artificial silk or rayon (see Rayon). (The Silk Association of Great Britain and Ireland Incorporated.)
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