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1 Heathcote
[hémkət, hí:m-]proper namedruž. ime -
2 Heathcote
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3 Heathcote, John
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]b. 7 August 1783 Duffield, Derbyshire, Englandd. 18 January 1861 Tiverton, Devonshire, England[br]English inventor of the bobbin-net lace machine.[br]Heathcote was the son of a small farmer who became blind, obliging the family to move to Long Whatton, near Loughborough, c.1790. He was apprenticed to W.Shepherd, a hosiery-machine maker, and became a frame-smith in the hosiery industry. He moved to Nottingham where he entered the employment of an excellent machine maker named Elliott. He later joined William Caldwell of Hathern, whose daughter he had married. The lace-making apparatus they patented jointly in 1804 had already been anticipated, so Heathcote turned to the problem of making pillow lace, a cottage industry in which women made lace by arranging pins stuck in a pillow in the correct pattern and winding around them thread contained on thin bobbins. He began by analysing the complicated hand-woven lace into simple warp and weft threads and found he could dispense with half the bobbins. The first machine he developed and patented, in 1808, made narrow lace an inch or so wide, but the following year he made much broader lace on an improved version. In his second patent, in 1809, he could make a type of net curtain, Brussels lace, without patterns. His machine made bobbin-net by the use of thin brass discs, between which the thread was wound. As they passed through the warp threads, which were arranged vertically, the warp threads were moved to each side in turn, so as to twist the bobbin threads round the warp threads. The bobbins were in two rows to save space, and jogged on carriages in grooves along a bar running the length of the machine. As the strength of this fabric depended upon bringing the bobbin threads diagonally across, in addition to the forward movement, the machine had to provide for a sideways movement of each bobbin every time the lengthwise course was completed. A high standard of accuracy in manufacture was essential for success. Called the "Old Loughborough", it was acknowledged to be the most complicated machine so far produced. In partnership with a man named Charles Lacy, who supplied the necessary capital, a factory was established at Loughborough that proved highly successful; however, their fifty-five frames were destroyed by Luddites in 1816. Heathcote was awarded damages of £10,000 by the county of Nottingham on the condition it was spent locally, but to avoid further interference he decided to transfer not only his machines but his entire workforce elsewhere and refused the money. In a disused woollen factory at Tiverton in Devonshire, powered by the waters of the river Exe, he built 300 frames of greater width and speed. By continually making inventions and improvements until he retired in 1843, his business flourished and he amassed a large fortune. He patented one machine for silk cocoon-reeling and another for plaiting or braiding. In 1825 he brought out two patents for the mechanical ornamentation or figuring of lace. He acquired a sound knowledge of French prior to opening a steam-powered lace factory in France. The factory proved to be a successful venture that lasted many years. In 1832 he patented a monstrous steam plough that is reputed to have cost him over £12,000 and was claimed to be the best in its day. One of its stated aims was "improved methods of draining land", which he hoped would develop agriculture in Ireland. A cable was used to haul the implement across the land. From 1832 to 1859, Heathcote represented Tiverton in Parliament and, among other benefactions, he built a school for his adopted town.[br]Bibliography1804, with William Caldwell, British patent no. 2,788 (lace-making machine). 1808. British patent no. 3,151 (machine for making narrow lace).1809. British patent no. 3,216 (machine for making Brussels lace). 1813, British patent no. 3,673.1825, British patent no. 5,103 (mechanical ornamentation of lace). 1825, British patent no. 5,144 (mechanical ornamentation of lace).Further ReadingV.Felkin, 1867, History of the Machine-wrought Hosiery and Lace Manufacture, Nottingham (provides a full account of Heathcote's early life and his inventions).A.Barlow, 1878, The History and Principles of Weaving by Hand and by Power, London (provides more details of his later years).W.G.Allen, 1958 John Heathcote and His Heritage (biography).M.R.Lane, 1980, The Story of the Steam Plough Works, Fowlers of Leeds, London (for comments about Heathcote's steam plough).W.English, 1969, The Textile Industry, London, and C.Singer (ed.), 1958, A History ofTechnology, Vol. V, Oxford: Clarendon Press (both describe the lace-making machine).RLH -
4 Heathcote slip
TRIBOLOGY TERMS ТНТ №181 -
5 Heathcote-type slip
TRIBOLOGY TERMS ТНТ №181 -
6 Bobbinet
A machine-made cotton-face net produced by the bobbinet frame. Heathcote, about the year 1890, seems to have been the inventor of this frame, which has since had many improvements, though the principle remains. Its value depends upon the firmness of the mesh. The coarser weaves being cheaper than the fine ones. Tosca net is a good quality bobbinet, very firmly woven and very durable. -
7 Bobbin-Net
A machine-made cotton-face net produced by the bobbinet frame. Heathcote, about the year 1890, seems to have been the inventor of this frame, which has since had many improvements, though the principle remains. Its value depends upon the firmness of the mesh. The coarser weaves being cheaper than the fine ones. Tosca net is a good quality bobbinet, very firmly woven and very durable. -
8 Lace
LACE, Passement, French, also Dentelle, and GuipureLace was originally a heavy texture more like embroidery and of two kinds, Lacis or "darned netting" and Cutwork. Laces, often worked in gold threads and coloured silks was also called " spiderwork." Lace is purely an English word, derived from the Anglo-Norman lacier, to lace, bind, tie or fasten, etc. The word appears to have been first used in 1519. It is a fabric of open mesh or net formed by crossing and intertwining threads. Lace was originally purely a hand craft, but today it is machine made as well. There are three main classes: - Point lace, pillow lace and machine-made lace. Point Lace - When the term " Point " is applied to a lace fabric it should mean that the lace has been made by the needle with a single line of thread, but it is now given to many machine-made laces. There are numerous laces sold as point laces and each has some feature not possessed by any other, many of these laces are known by the town where they are manufactured. Pillow Lace - These laces are made by intertwining threads on pins fixed in a cushion over a pattern fastened on to the cushion. Many pillow laces are part hand and part machine made such as Honiton, Valenciennes, Irish, etc. Machine-made Laces - There are three principal classes which can be placed (1) warp fabrics; (2) plain nets; (3) Levers' laces. Warp Laces - This is the earliest form of lace produced on a machine which was the invention of the Rev. William Lee in 1589, and was an adaption of the stocking frame. A warp lace is a series of upright threads that twist upon each other to form a fabric. There are no crossing threads. They are made in widths up to 10-in. and are the cheapest laces made. Plain Nets - John Heathcote, the inventor of the bobbin-net machine in 1809, laid the foundation of the machine-made lace trade. These are formed by a diagonal bobbin thread intertwining with the upright warp threads so that when the web is taken off the machine the mesh is honeycomb shaped. Other shapes followed, such as the square mesh. Cotton, silk, mohair and rayon are all used in making plain nets. Standard plain nets are as follows: - Brussels Net - Close mesh, specially selected fine yarns, in widths 36-in. to 80-in. The mesh varies up to 20 holes per inch. Both stiff and soft finish. Mosquito Net - Made in many qualities and closeness of mesh and from 54-in. to 108-in. Cable Net - Made up to 300-in. wide and from coarser yarns than other laces. This fabric is used as the ground fabric for curtains, etc. Bretonne Net - A very fine fabric, close mesh and finer yarns than Brussels, very soft and smooth finish. Point d'esprit - Fabrics with spots at regular distances. The yarns are not as good a quality as Brussels. Finished both soft and stiff. Paris Nets - Very stiff finish, used by the millinery trade for foundation work. Illusion Nets - A star-shaped mesh fabric, very fine yarns, used for veils and evening dress purposes. Silk Mechlins, or Tulles - A net more round than square in mesh and made from fine silk yarns. Malines is a tulle made in Belgium. Chantilly, or Silk Brussels - Similar to Brussels, but made from black dyed silk yarns. Chambray Nets - A finer all silk net than Chantilly. Levers' Lace Fabrics - These are various fancy laces and are produced on the lace machine fitted with a jacquard. Samuel Draper of Nottingham combined the jacquard with the lace machine in 1813. John Levers invented the machine. Varieties of these laces are Cluny laces. Torchons, Maltese lace. All-overs and numerous others. -
9 Levers (Leavers), John
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]fl. 1812–21 Englandd. after 1821 Rouen, France[br]English improver of lace-making machines that formed the basis for many later developments.[br]John Heathcote had shown that it was possible to make lace by machine with his patents of 1808 and 1809. His machines were developed and improved by John Levers. Levers was originally a hosiery frame-smith and setter-up at Sutton-in-Ashfield but moved to Nottingham, where he extended his operations to the construction of point-net and warp-lace machinery. In the years 1812 and 1813 he more or less isolated himself in the garret of a house in Derby Road, where he assembled his lacemaking machine by himself. He was helped by two brothers and a nephew who made parts, but they saw it only when it was completed. Financial help for making production machines came from the firm of John Stevenson \& Skipwith, lace manufacturers in Nottingham. Levers never sought a patent, as he was under the mistaken impression that additions or improvements to an existing patented machine could not be protected. An early example of the machine survives at the Castle Museum in Nottingham. Although his prospects must have seemed good, for some reason Levers dissolved his partnership with Stevenson \& Co. and continued to work on improving his machine. In 1817 he altered it from the horizontal to the upright position, building many of the machines each year. He was a friendly, kind-hearted man, but he seems to have been unable to apply himself to his business, preferring the company of musicians—he was a bandmaster of the local militia—and was soon frequently without money, even to buy food for his family. He emigrated in 1821 to Rouen, France, where he set up his lace machines and where he subsequently died; when or in what circumstances is unknown. His machine continued to be improved and was adapted to work with the Jacquard mechanism to select the pattern.[br]Further ReadingW.Felkin, 1967, History of the Machine-wrought Hosiery and Lace Manufactures, reprint, Newton Abbot (orig. pub. 1867) (the main account of the Levers machine).W.English, 1969, The Textile Industry, London (a brief account of the Levers lace machine).D.M.Smith, 1965, Industrial Archaeology of the East Midlands, Dawlish (includes an illustration of Levers's machine).RLH -
10 Textiles
See also: INDEX BY SUBJECT AREA[br]Dore, Samuel GriswoldHeilmann, JosuéLevers, JohnLister, Samuel CunliffeMa JunSong Yingxing
См. также в других словарях:
Heathcote — may refer to:Places;in Australia *Heathcote, New South Wales, a suburb of Sydney **Electoral district of Heathcote, a seat in the New South Wales Legislative Assembly, based on the suburb *Heathcote National Park *Heathcote, Victoria;in England * … Wikipedia
Heathcote — Lage in New Jersey Basisdaten Staat … Deutsch Wikipedia
Heathcote — Heathcote, NJ U.S. Census Designated Place in New Jersey Population (2000): 4755 Housing Units (2000): 2059 Land area (2000): 2.626715 sq. miles (6.803160 sq. km) Water area (2000): 0.005431 sq. miles (0.014065 sq. km) Total area (2000): 2.632146 … StarDict's U.S. Gazetteer Places
Heathcote, NJ — U.S. Census Designated Place in New Jersey Population (2000): 4755 Housing Units (2000): 2059 Land area (2000): 2.626715 sq. miles (6.803160 sq. km) Water area (2000): 0.005431 sq. miles (0.014065 sq. km) Total area (2000): 2.632146 sq. miles… … StarDict's U.S. Gazetteer Places
Heathcote — This interesting name is of Anglo Saxon origin, and is in most cases a locational surname deriving from one of the places called Heathcote, such as those in Derbyshire and Warwickshire. The place in Derbyshire is recorded in the Domesday Book of… … Surnames reference
Heathcote — 1 Original name in latin Heathcote Name in other language Heathcote State code AU Continent/City Australia/Sydney longitude 34.08333 latitude 151.01667 altitude 222 Population 5851 Date 2013 04 04 2 Original name in latin Heathcote Name in other… … Cities with a population over 1000 database
Heathcote — Una casa en Heathcote. Heathcote es un suburbio de Sídney, Australia situado en la comuna de Sutherland. Esta situado a 36km al sur del Centro de Sídney en el South Coast. Está conectado con el centro de Sídney con un tren. Es un suburbio de 5500 … Wikipedia Español
Heathcote (Victoria) — Heathcote Hauptstraße Staat … Deutsch Wikipedia
Heathcote Williams — Born John Henley Jasper Heathcote Williams 15 November 1941 (1941 11 15) (age 69) Helsby, Cheshire Occupation Poet, actor, playwright Years active 1964–present … Wikipedia
Heathcote-Nationalpark — Heathcote Nationalpark … Deutsch Wikipedia
Heathcote National Park — Heathcote is a national park in New South Wales (Australia), 34 km southwest of Sydney. It lies west of the South Coast Line and the suburbs of Heathcote and Waterfall.The park has no private vehicular access. Access to the park can be gained… … Wikipedia