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All-Over

  • 1 All-Over

    A term used generally to indicate that the pattern is all-over the piece - that there is very little uncovered ground. A contrast to stripes and regular designs.

    Dictionary of the English textile terms > All-Over

  • 2 All-Over Lace

    Any lace having a figure or design repeating all-over the entire width, may be a simple spot, a detached flower or a fancy design. Made in silk and cotton and used for dresses, millinery, etc.

    Dictionary of the English textile terms > All-Over Lace

  • 3 Looker-Over

    LOOKER-OVER, PERCHER, or PASSER
    Operatives in woollen and worsted mills who examine the woven pieces after leaving the loom and mark with chalk all faults which can be repaired during the subsequent processes of picking, hurling and mending. When dyed and finished the pieces are again examined (see Perching)

    Dictionary of the English textile terms > Looker-Over

  • 4 Edison, Thomas Alva

    [br]
    b. 11 February 1847 Milan, Ohio, USA
    d. 18 October 1931 Glenmont
    [br]
    American inventor and pioneer electrical developer.
    [br]
    He was the son of Samuel Edison, who was in the timber business. His schooling was delayed due to scarlet fever until 1855, when he was 8½ years old, but he was an avid reader. By the age of 14 he had a job as a newsboy on the railway from Port Huron to Detroit, a distance of sixty-three miles (101 km). He worked a fourteen-hour day with a stopover of five hours, which he spent in the Detroit Free Library. He also sold sweets on the train and, later, fruit and vegetables, and was soon making a profit of $20 a week. He then started two stores in Port Huron and used a spare freight car as a laboratory. He added a hand-printing press to produce 400 copies weekly of The Grand Trunk Herald, most of which he compiled and edited himself. He set himself to learn telegraphy from the station agent at Mount Clements, whose son he had saved from being run over by a freight car.
    At the age of 16 he became a telegraphist at Port Huron. In 1863 he became railway telegraphist at the busy Stratford Junction of the Grand Trunk Railroad, arranging a clock with a notched wheel to give the hourly signal which was to prove that he was awake and at his post! He left hurriedly after failing to hold a train which was nearly involved in a head-on collision. He usually worked the night shift, allowing himself time for experiments during the day. His first invention was an arrangement of two Morse registers so that a high-speed input could be decoded at a slower speed. Moving from place to place he held many positions as a telegraphist. In Boston he invented an automatic vote recorder for Congress and patented it, but the idea was rejected. This was the first of a total of 1180 patents that he was to take out during his lifetime. After six years he resigned from the Western Union Company to devote all his time to invention, his next idea being an improved ticker-tape machine for stockbrokers. He developed a duplex telegraphy system, but this was turned down by the Western Union Company. He then moved to New York.
    Edison found accommodation in the battery room of Law's Gold Reporting Company, sleeping in the cellar, and there his repair of a broken transmitter marked him as someone of special talents. His superior soon resigned, and he was promoted with a salary of $300 a month. Western Union paid him $40,000 for the sole rights on future improvements on the duplex telegraph, and he moved to Ward Street, Newark, New Jersey, where he employed a gathering of specialist engineers. Within a year, he married one of his employees, Mary Stilwell, when she was only 16: a daughter, Marion, was born in 1872, and two sons, Thomas and William, in 1876 and 1879, respectively.
    He continued to work on the automatic telegraph, a device to send out messages faster than they could be tapped out by hand: that is, over fifty words per minute or so. An earlier machine by Alexander Bain worked at up to 400 words per minute, but was not good over long distances. Edison agreed to work on improving this feature of Bain's machine for the Automatic Telegraph Company (ATC) for $40,000. He improved it to a working speed of 500 words per minute and ran a test between Washington and New York. Hoping to sell their equipment to the Post Office in Britain, ATC sent Edison to England in 1873 to negotiate. A 500-word message was to be sent from Liverpool to London every half-hour for six hours, followed by tests on 2,200 miles (3,540 km) of cable at Greenwich. Only confused results were obtained due to induction in the cable, which lay coiled in a water tank. Edison returned to New York, where he worked on his quadruplex telegraph system, tests of which proved a success between New York and Albany in December 1874. Unfortunately, simultaneous negotiation with Western Union and ATC resulted in a lawsuit.
    Alexander Graham Bell was granted a patent for a telephone in March 1876 while Edison was still working on the same idea. His improvements allowed the device to operate over a distance of hundreds of miles instead of only a few miles. Tests were carried out over the 106 miles (170 km) between New York and Philadelphia. Edison applied for a patent on the carbon-button transmitter in April 1877, Western Union agreeing to pay him $6,000 a year for the seventeen-year duration of the patent. In these years he was also working on the development of the electric lamp and on a duplicating machine which would make up to 3,000 copies from a stencil. In 1876–7 he moved from Newark to Menlo Park, twenty-four miles (39 km) from New York on the Pennsylvania Railway, near Elizabeth. He had bought a house there around which he built the premises that would become his "inventions factory". It was there that he began the use of his 200- page pocket notebooks, each of which lasted him about two weeks, so prolific were his ideas. When he died he left 3,400 of them filled with notes and sketches.
    Late in 1877 he applied for a patent for a phonograph which was granted on 19 February 1878, and by the end of the year he had formed a company to manufacture this totally new product. At the time, Edison saw the device primarily as a business aid rather than for entertainment, rather as a dictating machine. In August 1878 he was granted a British patent. In July 1878 he tried to measure the heat from the solar corona at a solar eclipse viewed from Rawlins, Wyoming, but his "tasimeter" was too sensitive.
    Probably his greatest achievement was "The Subdivision of the Electric Light" or the "glow bulb". He tried many materials for the filament before settling on carbon. He gave a demonstration of electric light by lighting up Menlo Park and inviting the public. Edison was, of course, faced with the problem of inventing and producing all the ancillaries which go to make up the electrical system of generation and distribution-meters, fuses, insulation, switches, cabling—even generators had to be designed and built; everything was new. He started a number of manufacturing companies to produce the various components needed.
    In 1881 he built the world's largest generator, which weighed 27 tons, to light 1,200 lamps at the Paris Exhibition. It was later moved to England to be used in the world's first central power station with steam engine drive at Holborn Viaduct, London. In September 1882 he started up his Pearl Street Generating Station in New York, which led to a worldwide increase in the application of electric power, particularly for lighting. At the same time as these developments, he built a 1,300yd (1,190m) electric railway at Menlo Park.
    On 9 August 1884 his wife died of typhoid. Using his telegraphic skills, he proposed to 19-year-old Mina Miller in Morse code while in the company of others on a train. He married her in February 1885 before buying a new house and estate at West Orange, New Jersey, building a new laboratory not far away in the Orange Valley.
    Edison used direct current which was limited to around 250 volts. Alternating current was largely developed by George Westinghouse and Nicola Tesla, using transformers to step up the current to a higher voltage for long-distance transmission. The use of AC gradually overtook the Edison DC system.
    In autumn 1888 he patented a form of cinephotography, the kinetoscope, obtaining film-stock from George Eastman. In 1893 he set up the first film studio, which was pivoted so as to catch the sun, with a hinged roof which could be raised. In 1894 kinetoscope parlours with "peep shows" were starting up in cities all over America. Competition came from the Latham Brothers with a screen-projection machine, which Edison answered with his "Vitascope", shown in New York in 1896. This showed pictures with accompanying sound, but there was some difficulty with synchronization. Edison also experimented with captions at this early date.
    In 1880 he filed a patent for a magnetic ore separator, the first of nearly sixty. He bought up deposits of low-grade iron ore which had been developed in the north of New Jersey. The process was a commercial success until the discovery of iron-rich ore in Minnesota rendered it uneconomic and uncompetitive. In 1898 cement rock was discovered in New Village, west of West Orange. Edison bought the land and started cement manufacture, using kilns twice the normal length and using half as much fuel to heat them as the normal type of kiln. In 1893 he met Henry Ford, who was building his second car, at an Edison convention. This started him on the development of a battery for an electric car on which he made over 9,000 experiments. In 1903 he sold his patent for wireless telegraphy "for a song" to Guglielmo Marconi.
    In 1910 Edison designed a prefabricated concrete house. In December 1914 fire destroyed three-quarters of the West Orange plant, but it was at once rebuilt, and with the threat of war Edison started to set up his own plants for making all the chemicals that he had previously been buying from Europe, such as carbolic acid, phenol, benzol, aniline dyes, etc. He was appointed President of the Navy Consulting Board, for whom, he said, he made some forty-five inventions, "but they were pigeonholed, every one of them". Thus did Edison find that the Navy did not take kindly to civilian interference.
    In 1927 he started the Edison Botanic Research Company, founded with similar investment from Ford and Firestone with the object of finding a substitute for overseas-produced rubber. In the first year he tested no fewer than 3,327 possible plants, in the second year, over 1,400, eventually developing a variety of Golden Rod which grew to 14 ft (4.3 m) in height. However, all this effort and money was wasted, due to the discovery of synthetic rubber.
    In October 1929 he was present at Henry Ford's opening of his Dearborn Museum to celebrate the fiftieth anniversary of the incandescent lamp, including a replica of the Menlo Park laboratory. He was awarded the Congressional Gold Medal and was elected to the American Academy of Sciences. He died in 1931 at his home, Glenmont; throughout the USA, lights were dimmed temporarily on the day of his funeral.
    [br]
    Principal Honours and Distinctions
    Member of the American Academy of Sciences. Congressional Gold Medal.
    Further Reading
    M.Josephson, 1951, Edison, Eyre \& Spottiswode.
    R.W.Clark, 1977, Edison, the Man who Made the Future, Macdonald \& Jane.
    IMcN

    Biographical history of technology > Edison, Thomas Alva

  • 5 Mylne, Robert

    [br]
    b. 1733 Edinburgh, Scotland d. 1811
    [br]
    Scottish engineer, architect and bridge-builder.
    [br]
    Mylne was the eldest son of Thomas Mylne, Surveyor to the City of Edinburgh. Little is known of his early education. In 1754, at the age of 21, he left Edinburgh by sea and journeyed to Rome, where he attended the Academy of St Luke. There he received the first prize for architecture. In 1759 he left Rome to travel back to England, where he arrived in time for the competition then going ahead for the design and building of a new bridge across the Thames at Blackfriars. Against 68 other competitors, Mylne won the competition; the work took some ten years to complete.
    In 1760 he was appointed Engineer and Architect to the City of London, and in 1767 Joint Engineer to the New River Company together with Henry Mill, who died within a few years to leave Mylne to become Chief Engineer in 1770. Thus for the next forty years he was in charge of all the works for the New River Company between Clerkenwell and Ware, the opposite ends of London's main water supply. By 1767 he had also been appointed to a number of other important posts, which included Surveyor to Canterbury Cathedral and St Paul's Cathedral. In addition to undertaking his responsibilities for these great public buildings, he designed many private houses and villas all over the country, including several buildings for the Duke of Argyll on the Inverary Castle estate.
    Mylne was also responsible for the design of a great number of bridges, waterworks and other civil engineering works throughout Britain. Called in to advise on the Norwich city waterworks, he fell out with Joseph Bramah in a somewhat spectacular dispute.
    For much of his life Mylne lived at the Water House at the New River Head at Islington, from which he could direct much of the work on that waterway that came under his supervision. He also had residences in New Bridge Street and, as Clerk of Works, at Greenwich Hospital. Towards the end of his life he built himself a small house at Amwell, a country retreat at the outer end of the New River. He kept a diary from 1762 to 1810 which includes only brief memoranda but which shows a remarkable diligence in travelling all over the country by stagecoach and by postchaise. He was a freemason, as were many of his family; he married Mary Home on 10 September 1770, with whom he had ten children, four of whom survived into adulthood.
    [br]
    Principal Honours and Distinctions
    Fellow of the Royal Society 1767.
    Further Reading
    Dictionary of National Biography, London.
    A.E.Richardson, 1955, Robert Mylne, 1733–1811, Engineer and Architect, London: Batsford.

    Biographical history of technology > Mylne, Robert

  • 6 Voigtländer, Peter Wilhelm Friedrich

    [br]
    b. 1812 Vienna, Austria d. 1878
    [br]
    Austrian manufacturer of the first purpose-designed photographic objective; key member of a dynasty of optical instrument makers.
    [br]
    Educated at the Polytechnic Institute in Vienna, Voigtländer travelled widely before taking over the family business in 1837. The business had been founded by Voigtländer's grandfather in 1756, and was continued by his father, Johann Friedrich, the inventor of the opera glass, and by the 1830s enjoyed one of the highest reputations in Europe. When Petzval made the calculations for the first purpose-designed photographic objective in 1840, it was inevitable that he should go to Peter Voigtländer for advice. The business went on to manufacture Petzval's lens, which was also fitted to an all-metal camera of totally original design by Voigtländer.
    The Petzval lens was an extraordinary commercial success and Voigtländer sold specimens all over the world. Unfortunately Petzval had no formal agreement with Voigtländer and made little financial gain from his design, a fact which was to lead to dispute and separation; the Voigtländer concern continued to prosper, however. To meet the increasing demand for his products, Peter Voigtländer built a new factory in Brunswick and closed the business in Vienna. The closure is seen by at least one commentator as the death blow to Vienna's optical industry, a field in which it was once preeminent. The Voigtländer dynasty continued long after Peter's death and the name enjoyed a reputation for high-quality photographic equipment well into the twentieth century.
    [br]
    Principal Honours and Distinctions
    Hereditary Peerage bestowed by the Emperor of Austria 1868.
    Further Reading
    L.W.Sipley, 1965, Photography's Great Inventors, Philadelphia (a brief biography). J.M.Eder, 1945, History of Photography, trans. E.Epstean, New York.
    JW

    Biographical history of technology > Voigtländer, Peter Wilhelm Friedrich

  • 7 Gropius, Walter Adolf

    [br]
    b. 18 May 1883 Berlin, Germany
    d. 5 July 1969 Boston, USA
    [br]
    German co-founder of the modern movement of architecture.
    [br]
    A year after he began practice as an architect, Gropius was responsible for the pace-setting Fagus shoe-last factory at Alfeld-an-der-Leine in Germany, one of the few of his buildings to survive the Second World War. Today the building does not appear unusual, but in 1911 it was a revolutionary prototype, heralding the glass curtain walled method of non-load-bearing cladding that later became ubiquitous. Made from glass, steel and reinforced concrete, this factory initiated a new concept, that of the International school of modern architecture.
    In 1919 Gropius was appointed to head the new School of Art and Design at Weimar, the Staatliches Bauhaus. The school had been formed by an amalgamation of the Grand Ducal schools of fine and applied arts founded in 1906. Here Gropius put into practice his strongly held views and he was so successful that this small college, which trained only a few hundred students in the limited years of its existence, became world famous, attracting artists, architects and students of quality from all over Europe.
    Gropius's idea was to set up an institution where students of all the arts and crafts could work together and learn from one another. He abhorred the artificial barriers that had come to exist between artists and craftsmen and saw them all as interdependent. He felt that manual dexterity was as essential as creative design. Every Bauhaus student, whatever the individual's field of work or talent, took the same original workshop training. When qualified they were able to understand and supervise all the aesthetic and constructional processes that made up the scope of their work.
    In 1924, because of political changes, the Weimar Bauhaus was closed, but Gropius was invited to go to Dessau to re-establish it in a new purpose-built school which he designed. This group of buildings became a prototype that designers of the new architectural form emulated. Gropius left the Bauhaus in 1928, only a few years before it was finally closed due to the growth of National Socialism. He moved to England in 1934, but because of a lack of architectural opportunities and encouragement he continued on his way to the USA, where he headed the Department of Architecture at Harvard University's Graduate School of Design from 1937 to 1952. After his retirement from there Gropius formed the Architect's Collaborative and, working with other architects such as Marcel Breuer and Pietro Belluschi, designed a number of buildings (for example, the US Embassy in Athens (1960) and the Pan Am Building in New York (1963)).
    [br]
    Bibliography
    1984, Scope of Total Architecture, Allen \& Unwin.
    Further Reading
    N.Pevsner, 1936, Pioneers of the Modern Movement: From William Morris to Walter Gropius, Penguin.
    C.Jenck, 1973, Modern Movements in Architecture, Penguin.
    H.Probst and C.Shädlich, 1988, Walter Gropius, Berlin: Ernst \& Son.
    DY

    Biographical history of technology > Gropius, Walter Adolf

  • 8 End And End Figuring

    Fabrics in which two kinds of warp ends are used, arranged in the cloth one end of each alternately. A well-known type had one end of fine cotton alternating with one end of coarser mercerised cotton. All the figuring is done by the mercerised ends, making a figured all-over effect possible at a lower cost than using a warp all mercerised. Modern applications of this principle are fabrics in which one end or cotton alternates with one of rayon. Another variation is an alternation of one end white, one end colour.

    Dictionary of the English textile terms > End And End Figuring

  • 9 Japanese Silks

    There are three principal styles of silks manufactured in Japan: (1) The "double-warp gros-grain"; (2) the "Damasse Japanese "; and (3) " Plain Japan silks." The first are 22-in. wide, dyed in all colours, soft handle. The second style is 19-in. wide, has small floral effects all over the cloth and is dyed in all colours. The plain silks are 20-in. wide, and the handle is harder than the first (see " Heather Silk ")

    Dictionary of the English textile terms > Japanese Silks

  • 10 Perret, Auguste

    [br]
    b. 12 February 1874 Ixelles, near Brussels, Belgium
    d. 26 February 1954 Le Havre (?), France
    [br]
    French architect who pioneered and established building design in reinforced concrete in a style suited to the modern movement.
    [br]
    Auguste Perret belonged to the family contracting firm of A. \& G.Perret, which early specialized in the use of reinforced concrete. His eight-storey building at 25 bis Rue Franklin in Paris, built in 1902–3, was the first example of frame construction in this material and established its viability for structural design. Both ground plan and façade are uncompromisingly modern, the simplicity of the latter being relieved by unobtrusive faience decoration. The two upper floors, which are set back, and the open terrace roof garden set a pattern for future schemes. All of Perret's buildings had reinforced-concrete structures and this was clearly delineated on the façade designs. The concept was uncommon in Europe at the time, when eclecticism still largely ruled, but was derived from the late nineteenth-century skyscraper façades built by Louis Sullivan in America. In 1905–6 came Perret's Garage Ponthieu in Paris; a striking example of exposed concrete, it had a central façade window glazed in modern design in rich colours. By the 1920s ferroconcrete was in more common use, but Perret still led the field in France with his imaginative, bold use of the material. His most original structure is the Church of Notre Dame at Le Raincy on the outskirts of Paris (1922–3). The imposing exterior with its tall tower in diminishing stages is finely designed, but the interior has magnificence. It is a wide, light church, the segmented vaulted roof supported on slender columns. The whole structure is in concrete apart from the glass window panels, which extend the full height of the walls all around the church. They provide a symphony of colour culminating in deep blue behind the altar. Because of the slenderness of the columns and the richness of the glass, this church possesses a spiritual atmosphere and unimpeded sight and sound of and from the altar for everyone. It became the prototype for churches all over Europe for decades, from Moser in prewar Switzerland to Spence's postwar Coventry Cathedral.
    In a long working life Perret designed buildings for a wide range of purposes, adhering to his preference for ferroconcrete and adapting its use according to each building's needs. In the 1940s he was responsible for the railway station at Amiens, the Atomic Centre at Saclay and, one of his last important works, the redevelopment after wartime damage of the town centre of Le Havre. For the latter, he laid out large open squares enclosed by prefabricated units, which display a certain monotony, despite the imposing town hall and Church of St Joseph in the Place de L'Hôtel de Ville.
    [br]
    Principal Honours and Distinctions
    President des Réunions Internationales des Architectes. American Society of the French Legion of Honour Gold Medal 1950. Elected after the Second World War to the Institut de France. First President of the International Union of Architects on its creation in 1948. RIBA Royal Gold Medal 1948.
    Further Reading
    P.Blater, 1939, "Work of the architect A.Perret", Architektura SSSR (Moscow) 7:57 (illustrated article).
    1848 "Auguste Perret: a pioneer in reinforced concrete", Civil Engineers' Review, pp.
    296–300.
    Peter Collins, 1959, Concrete: The Vision of a New Architecture: A Study of Auguste Perret and his Precursors, Faber \& Faber.
    Marcel Zahar, 1959, D'Une Doctrine d'Architecture: Auguste Perret, Paris: Vincent Fréal.
    DY

    Biographical history of technology > Perret, Auguste

  • 11 Ransome, Robert

    [br]
    b. 1753 Wells, Norfolk, England
    d. 1830 England
    [br]
    English inventor of a self-sharpening ploughshare and all-metal ploughs with interchangeable pans.
    [br]
    The son of a Quaker schoolmaster, Ransome served his apprenticeship with a Norfolk iron manufacturer and then went into business on his own in the same town, setting up one of the first brass and iron foundries in East Anglia. At an early stage of his career he was selling into Norfolk and Suffolk, well beyond the boundaries to be expected from a local craftsman. He achieved this through the use of forty-seven agents acting on his behalf. In 1789, with one employee and £200 capital, he transferred to Ipswich, where the company was to remain and where there was easier access to both raw materials and his markets. It was there that he discovered that cooling one part of a metal share during its casting could result in a self-sharpening share, and he patented the process in 1785.
    Ransome won a number of awards at the early Bath and West shows, a fact which demonstrates the extent of his markets. In 1808 he patented an all-metal plough made up of interchangeable parts, and the following year was making complete ploughs for sale. With interchangeable parts he was able to make composite ploughs suitable for a wide variety of conditions and therefore with potential markets all over the country.
    In 1815 he was joined by his son James, and at about the same time by William Cubitt. With the expertise of the latter the firm moved into bridge building and millwrighting, and was therefore able to withstand the agricultural depression which began to affect other manufacturers from about 1815. In 1818, under Cubitt's direction, Ransome built the gas-supply system for the town of Ipswich. In 1830 his grandson James Ransome joined the firm, and it was under his influence that the agricultural side was developed. There was a great expansion in the business after 1835.
    [br]
    Further Reading
    J.E.Ransome, 1865, Ploughs and Ploughing at the Royal Agricultural College at Cirencester in 1865, in which he outlined the accepted theories of the day.
    J.B.Passmore, 1930, The English Plough, Reading: University of Reading (provides a history of plough development from the eighth century to the in ter-war period).
    Ransome's Royal Records 1789–1939, produced by the company; D.R.Grace and D.C.Phillips, 1975, Ransomes of Ipswich, Reading: Institute of Agricultural History, Reading University (both provide information about Ransome in a more general account about the company and its products; Reading University holds the company archives).
    AP

    Biographical history of technology > Ransome, Robert

  • 12 Cape

    This familiar appendage of the coat or cloak was, in the 16th century, a separate article of apparel. It was then made of " purple cloth of gold baudkin," also of " crimson satin, embroidered all over with Venice gold tissue, and lined with crimson velvet, having five pair of large aglets of gold." In 1735 capes were extremely fashionable, and in 1738 were worn made of black velvet over loose overcoats of coloured cloth. From that date they appear to have been confined to the great-coats of coachmen, livery servants, parish beadles, and to the cloaks of cavalry.

    Dictionary of the English textile terms > Cape

  • 13 Madeira Islands, Archipelago of

       An autonomous region of Portugal in the Atlantic Ocean that consists of the islands of Madeira and Porto Santo and several smaller isles. The capital of the archipelago is Funchal on Madeira Island. The islands have a total area of 496 square kilometers (308 square miles) and are located about 1,126 kilometers (700 miles) southwest of Lisbon. Discovered uninhabited by Portuguese navigators between 1419 and 1425, but probably seen earlier by Italian navigators, the Madeiras were so named because of the extensive forests found on the islands' volcanic hills and mountains (the name Madeiras means wood or timber). Prince Henry of Aviz (Prince Henry the Navigator) was first responsible for the settlement and early colonization of these islands.
       The Madeiran economy was soon dominated by sugar plantations, which were begun when the Portuguese transplanted sugar plants from the Mediterranean. In the 15th, 16th, and 17th centuries, Madeira was worked largely by black African slaves brought from West Africa, and the islands produced sugar, cereals, and wine. Eventually the islands' fortunes were governed by a new kind of wine called "Madeira," developed in the 17th century. Madeira was produced using a heating process, and became famous as a sweet, fortified dessert wine popular both in Great Britain and in British North America. It was a favorite drink of America's Thomas Jefferson. The Madeira wine business was developed largely under British influence, management, and capital, although the labor was supplied by African slaves and Portuguese settlers. Two other main staples of these islands' economy were initially developed due to the initiatives of British residents as well. In the 18th century, Madeira became an early tourist attraction and health spa for Britain, and the islands' tourist facilities began to be developed. It was a British woman resident in the 19th century who introduced the idea of the Madeiran embroidered lace industry, an industry that sends its fine products not only to Portugal but all over the world.
       Since the 1950s, with new international airline connections with Britain and Portugal, the Madeiras have become a popular tourist destination and, along with Madeira wine, tourism became a major foreign exchange earner. Among European and British visitors especially, Madeira Island has attracted visitors who like flower and garden tours, challenging mountain walks, and water sports. Over the last century, a significant amount of Madeiran emigration has occurred, principally to the United States (California and Hawaii being the favored residential states), the Caribbean, and, more recently, South Africa. Since 1976, the Madeiras have been, like the Azores Islands, an autonomous region of Portugal.

    Historical dictionary of Portugal > Madeira Islands, Archipelago of

  • 14 Laval, Carl Gustaf Patrik de

    [br]
    b. 9 May 1845 Orsa, Sweden
    d. 2 February 1913 Stockholm, Sweden
    [br]
    Swedish inventor of an advanced cream separator and a steam turbine.
    [br]
    Gustaf de Laval was educated at the Stockholm Technical Institute and Uppsala University. He proved to have an unfailing vigour and variety in his inventive talent, for his interests ranged from electric lighting and electrometallurgy to aerodynamics. In the 1890s he employed over one hundred engineers to develop his inventions, but he was best known for two: the cream separator and a steam turbine. In 1877 he invented the high-speed centrifugal cream separator, which was probably the greatest advance in butter-making up to that time. By 1880 the separators were being successfully marketed all over the world, for they were quickly adopted in larger dairies where they effected enormous savings in labour and space. He followed this with various devices for the dairy industry, including a vacuum milking machine perfected in 1913. In c. 1882, de Laval invented a turbine on the principle of Hero's engine, but he quickly turned his attention to the impulse type, which was like Branca's, with a jet of steam impinging on a set of blades around the periphery of a wheel. He applied for a British patent in 1889. The steam was expanded in a single stage from the initial to the final pressure: to secure economy with the steam issuing at high velocity, the blades also had to rotate at high velocity. An early 5 hp (3.7 kW) turbine rotated at 30,000 rpm, so reduction gearing had to be introduced. Production started in Sweden in 1893 and in other countries at about the same time. In 1892 de Laval proposed employing one of his turbines of 15 hp (11 kW) in an experimental launch, but there is no evidence that it was ever actually installed in a vessel. However, his turbines were popular for powering electric generating sets for lighting textile mills and ships, and by 1900 were available in sizes up to 300 bhp (224 kW).
    [br]
    Bibliography
    1889, British patent no. 7,143 (steam turbine).
    Further Reading
    T.Althin, 1943, Life of de Laval, Stockholm (a full biography).
    T.I.Williams (ed.), 1969, A Biographical Dictionary of Scientists, London: A. \& C. Black (contains a brief biography).
    R.M.Neilson, 1902, The Steam Turbine, London: Longmans, Green \& Co. (fully covers the development of de Laval's steam turbine).
    H.W.Dickinson, 1938, A Short History of the Steam Engine, Cambridge University Press (contains a short account of the development of the steam turbine).
    R.L.Hills, 1989, Power from Steam. A History of the Stationary Steam Engine, Cambridge University Press (contains a short account).
    RLH

    Biographical history of technology > Laval, Carl Gustaf Patrik de

  • 15 Bokhara Carpet

    All-wool knotted carpet, with long pile. Ground is usually of bright red or reddish-brown with various ochre and other coloured patterns. The weave is not close. The designs are geometrical, the octagon being continuously used in all-over effects. Borders are usually in check effects.

    Dictionary of the English textile terms > Bokhara Carpet

  • 16 Herati Pattern

    A characteristic design used as an all-over effect in Persian and other Eastern rugs. The features are four crumpled leaves around a central diamond, and these motifs are at all times easily seen. The figures are not as a rule accurately outlined (see Rug designs)

    Dictionary of the English textile terms > Herati Pattern

  • 17 Robes

    A printed twill cotton cloth, originally used for wraps, and printed in beautiful all-over effects - The quality being 64 ends and 64 picks per inch, 50's warp, 34's weft, to 36's warp and 40's weft. The term now denotes style of design, which is very bold and full of colour, all the face of the fabric being covered with pattern.

    Dictionary of the English textile terms > Robes

  • 18 Appert, Nicolas

    [br]
    b. 1749 Châlons-sur-Marne, France d. 1841
    [br]
    French confectioner who invented canning as a method of food preservation.
    [br]
    As the son of an inn keeper, Nicolas Appert would have learned about pickling and brewing, but he chose to become a chef and confectioner, establishing himself in the rue des Lombards in Paris in 1780. He prospered there until about 1795, and in that year he began experimenting in ways to preserve foodstuffs, succeeding with soups, vegetables, juices, dairy products, jellies, jams and syrups. His method was to place food in glass jars, seal the jars with cork and sealing wax, then sterilize them by immersion in boiling water for a predetermined time.
    In 1810 the French Government offered a 12,000 franc award to anyone succeeding in preserving high-quality foodstuffs for its army and navy. Appert won the award and in 1812 used the money to open the world's first food-bottling factory, La Maison Appert, in the town of Massey, near Paris. He established agents in all the major sea ports, recognizing the marine market as his most likely customer, and supplied products to Napoleon's troops in the field. By 1820 Appert's method was in use all over the United States, in spite of the simultaneous development of other containers of tin or other metals by an English merchant, Peter Durand, and the production of canned food products by the Bermondsey firm of Donkin \& Hall, London. The latter had opened the first canning factory in England in 1811.
    Initially Appert used glass jars and bottles, but in 1822 he changed to tin-plated metal cans. To heat the cans he used an autoclave, which heated the water to a temperature higher than its boiling point. A hammer and chisel were needed to open cans until the invention of a can opener by an Englishman named Yates in 1855. Despite Appert's successes, he received little financial reward and died in poverty; he was buried in a common grave.
    [br]
    Bibliography
    1810, L'Art de conserver pendant plusieurs années toutes les sustenances animales et végétales (the Société d'Encouragement pour l'Industrie Nationale produced a report in its annual bulletin in 1809).
    Further Reading
    English historians have tended to concentrate on Bryan Donkin, who established tin cans as the primary container for long-term food preservation.
    J.Potin, 1891, Biographie de Nicolas Appert.
    1960, Canning and Packing 2–5.
    AP

    Biographical history of technology > Appert, Nicolas

  • 19 Hansom, Joseph Aloysius

    SUBJECT AREA: Land transport
    [br]
    b. 26 October 1803 York, England
    d. 29 June 1883 Fulham, London, England
    [br]
    English architect and inventor, originator of the Hansom cab.
    [br]
    In 1816 he was apprenticed to his father, who was a joiner. After a year his abilities in design and construction were so marked that it was decided that he would have more scope as an architect. He was accordingly apprenticed to a Mr Phillips in York, becoming a clerk to Phillips in 1820. While he served his time he also worked on his own account and taught at a night school. In 1825 he married Hannah Glover and settled in Halifax, where he became Assistant to another architect. In 1828 he became a partner of Edward Welch, with whom he built a number of churches in the north of England. He designed the Town Hall for Birmingham and was responsible for the constructional work until 1833, but he had to become bond because the builders caused him to become bankrupt. He was appointed Manager of the business affairs of Dempster Hemming of Caldicote Hall, which included the landed estates, banking and coal-mining. It was during this period that he designed the "Patent Safety Cab" named after him and popular in Victorian days. The safety element consisted in lowering the centre of gravity by the use of the cranked axle. Hansom sold his rights for £10,000 to a company proposing to exploit the patent, but he was never paid, for the company got into difficulties; Hansom became its temporary Manager in 1839 and put matters right, for which he was paid £300, all he ever made out of the Hansom Cab. In 1842 he brought out the first issue of The Builder, but lack of capital caused him to retire from the journal. He devoted himself from then on to domestic and ecclesiastical architecture, designing many churches, colleges, convents and schools all over Britain and even in Australia and South America. Of note is St Walburga's church, Preston, Lancashire, whose spire is 306 ft (93 m) high. At various times he was in partnership with his younger brother, his eldest son, and with E.W.Pugin with whom he had a disagreement. He was a Catholic and much of his work was for the Catholic Church.
    [br]
    Further Reading
    1882, The Builder (8 July).
    1882, Illustrated London News (15 July).
    IMcN

    Biographical history of technology > Hansom, Joseph Aloysius

  • 20 Robot

       Regard... the behaving organism as a completely self-maintaining robot, constructed of materials as unlike ourselves as may be. In doing this it is not necessary to attempt the solution of the detailed engineering problems connected with the design of such a creature. It is a wholesome and revealing exercise, however, to consider the various general problems in behavior dynamics which must be solved in the design of a truly self-maintaining robot.... The temptation to introduce an entelechy, soul, spirit, or daemon into a robot is slight; it is relatively easy to realize that the introduction of an entelechy would not really solve the problem of designing the entelechy itself, which is the core of the original problem all over again. The robot approach thus aids us in avoiding the very natural but childish tendency to choose easy though false solutions to our problems, by removing all excuses for not facing them squarely and without evasion. (Hull, 1943, pp. 27-28)

    Historical dictionary of quotations in cognitive science > Robot

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