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41 Knitted Fabrics
Knit fabrics are made with only one series of yarns instead of two as in woven cloths, and the threads are interlooped. There are two classes of knitted fabrics, those termed " weft knitted " and those that are " warp knitted." Weft Knitted - Fig. A shows how plain knitting is accomplished by a succession of loops formed by the same weft thread coursing across the fabric, 1 shows needle loops and 2 shows sinker loops. Fig. B shows 1 & 1 rib knitting where lengthwise wales 1 and 2 are formed, the plain wales 1 show the rib on the back, while the wales 2 show the rib on the face. Warp knitted Fabrics - These are knitted from warp threads running lengthwise of the piece. The diagram shows a simple form of lapping on odd and even wales alternately. Milanese fabric is warp knit. Owing to the method of interlacing warp knit fabrics are non-laddering.
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42 Pile
The yarn which forms the face of fabrics such as velvets, velveteens, terry, etc. There are several varieties, viz., warp pile, weft pile, and knotted pile, and cut, loop or curl pile. Warp Pile is formed by an extra warp additional to and much longer than the ground warp. The pile threads are woven over wires which, when removed, leave loops either uncut or cut. This system is used for wool and silk velvets and many carpets, rugs, etc. Terry fabrics have looped pile formed by weaving without wires. Weft Pile is formed by weft floats which are cut after the cloth is woven to make the pile as seen in velveteens, corduroys, etc. Knotted Pile is made by hand by knotting short lengths of yarn to the warp threads. Design is formed by using pile threads of different colours. After the rug or carpet is woven the pile is trimmed to a uniform length. Curl Pile is produced by weaving two kinds of yarn in the same cloth, a non-shrinking yarn being floated loosely on the surface while a yarn that shrinks readily is interwoven closely. When the cloth is shrunk the unshrinking yarn forms curls on the surface, as in astrakhans. -
43 Repps
The true repp is a plain weave fabric having both warp and weft arranged one thread fine, one thread coarse. The coarse ends are always lifted above the coarse picks, and fine ends over the fine picks, thus producing more prominent transverse ribs than those of the poplin. Two beans are used, with the fine warp more heavily weighted than the coarse warp. The illustration shows the true repp weave in cross-section, A is the coarse warp and C coarse weft, B is fine warp and D fine weft. A and B are alternately set.
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44 Benares
A furnishing fabric, cotton warp and cotton and rayon weft, in brocade designs. The cotton warp and weft are two-fold yams, rayon weft is Bulmerayon, cotton warp dyed, weft dyed another colour, picks 1 X 1 cotton and rayon. -
45 Curling Selvedges
This is a fault that causes serious trouble to finishers and is due to the unequal distribution of the weft threads on the back and the face of the cloth. The remedy is to weave flat selvedges and this can be done by using suitable weaves for the fabric to be woven, and a weave that does not give a tight selvedge. Manufacturers can avoid curling selvedges and by a little experimenting at the beginning of the warp the right weave can be quickly obtained. Curling selvedges in wool, invariably present themselves in the making of heavily-felted cloths (e.g., the Army greatcoat), when the weave shows a preponderance of warp or weft on one side, such as prunelle crow or sateen. The defect is partly overcome by weaving the selvedges in warp cord, weft cord, or hopsack. For fulling, the piece should be doubled as a bag, with the face inside, and the lists stitched flat together; or two pieces may be put face to face and the lists stitched. This arrangement, by keeping the pieces flat, also prevents mill marks. Other causes are: The use for the selvedge of odd yam which mills quicker than the cloth itself, and curls as it becomes shorter. In such cases the listing yarn should be harder twisted, or warped a little longer. Narrow selvedges which cannot resist the one-sided pull of the weft in shrinking are drawn in and rolled. (French Army cloths are milled from 102-in. to 55-in. The lists in these are made with ten very thick twofold threads, two to three times as heavy as the single ground yam). Skying the listing threads too closely is a cause of the defect. -
46 Satin Crepe
A silk fabric with a satin face and crepe twist weft. The crepe weft is woven at the back, piece-dyed. Warp usually raw silk, fine counts. Weft of hard-twist silk, 50 turns and upwards per inch. A cloth woven 44-in. on the counter will give 40-in. finished. From about 300 ends warp and 72 to 112 picks per inch, 26 denier warp and weft. -
47 Papoon
A plain cotton cloth with warp and weft yarns of different colours, such as red warp, and blue weft. Also made in checks, 2 red, 2 blue, or 2 red, 2 white. About 64 ends and 66 picks per inch, 30's warp, 28's colour warp, and 38's weft. The checks are also known as Pathas. -
48 Backed Cloths
A single texture cloth with extra threads of either warp or weft, generally inferior in quality to the face yarns, and woven so as to show only on the back. Used to add weight to the fabric. This allows a cloth to have a fine face weave, and yet be any desired weight. This principal is mostly used in the worsted trade, especially for trouserings, where a double fine worsted warp and weft are used for the face cloth, and a coarse single yam for padding. Also used for giving a cloth with face and back of different designs (see Weft, and Warp-backed Cloths) -
49 Blister Cloth
A fine woollen cloth, woven on the double-cloth principle with botany warp and weft for face and mohair warp and weft for back. The figuring produced by interchanging face and back is developed during finishing. The botany parts shrink and the mohair bulges on the face. Many qualities are made. One quality is made from 2/40's mohair and 2/60's botany yarns in both warp and weft. The yarns are one end mohair and one end botany. Practically all crimps and crepons are blister cloths (see Crimps) -
50 Challis
An all-wool muslin delaine, printed in somewhat faint designs. Made from very fine yams in plain weave about 34-in. A soft dress finish is given to the cloth. Originally the challis was made with a silk warp and worsted weft, but imitations were put on the market, some with cotton warp and wool weft, others had cotton and wool mixed warp and weft Also made all cotton in 24-in. and 36-in. finished widths, and used for cheap dresses in America. Made plain weave about 80 X 96 per inch, 50's/60's, printed and dyed. -
51 Glace
A lustre fabric made from fine cotton warp and thicker mohair weft. The warp is heavily weighted so that the weft does all the bending. Sometimes the cloth is figured, and is often called glace lustre. The term really means a glossy, lustrous surface. Also applied to silk fabrics in which the warp and weft are differently coloured, giving a shot effect. -
52 Hollands
The true hollands are made from flax yams. It originally was a very fine white linen used for shirts, but today this is not made. Brown Holland - 36-in. to 39-in., 48 ends and 48 picks per inch, loom state. White Holland - This is brown holland bleached and soft finished, and used for towels, linings, etc. Blind Hollands - 32-in. to 52-in. wide, coloured yarns, glazed finish, also in piece-dyed styles. All the above are made in numerous qualities, from flax yams about 32's lea warp and weft. The cotton imitations also vary greatly in quality, and the two cloths given are very fair standards, 40-in. to finish 37-in., 64 ends and 60 picks per inch, 28's T., 40's W., bleached and glazed. Width 32-in. to 48-in., 60 ends and 60 picks per inch, 28's T., 40's W., woven from dyed yarns in stripes and checks. Mostly used for window blinds and aprons, but many good qualities are made for dress purposes. A fabric is shipped to India as holland," which is all cotton, woven from white warp and blue and white grandrelle weft, about 26-in. to 30-in. wide, 52/56 reed, 44/52 picks, 20's warp, 2/36's weft. -
53 Honeycomb
This is the name of a weave (see Honeycomb Weave). The term is also used to describe towels woven with a honeycomb weave, and for dress goods. Fig. T shows a 12 X 10 honeycomb used for linen towels, woven with a 1,000 reed, 101/2 shots (37-in. glass), 22's linen warp and weft. A typical worsted dress cloth is woven 72 end and 48 picks per inch, 2/36's worsted warp and weft. Honeycomb Quilts are usually made about 28 end and 34 picks per inch, 2/12's warp and 2's to 6's weft, all cotton (see also Brighton and Grecian).
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54 Lampas
A fine brocade fabric and is a type of satin damask. Usually warp and weft are different colours. The material may be all silk, cotton warp and silk weft, or all cotton. The designs are formed by warp and weft figuring in an intricate manner. The material is made up as shawls from 40-in to 45-in. square, and having beautiful inset fringes 6-in. to 18-in. long. Worn on the head, used as a flag or as a shroud. -
55 Palm Beach Cloth
A wool fabric originally made for wear as suitings, dresses, etc., at Palm Beach, U.S.A. Plain weave, from light coloured yarn dyed wools, in 26-in. widths, 48 ends and 48 picks per inch, 40's worsted warp and weft. They are now also made with two-fold or single cotton warp and about 40/58 picks per inch, in both plain colours and stripes. The weft is either mohair or hard wool. A popular cloth is made 2 white 2 grey ends, in the warp of 2/32's cotton, and 24's lustre weft, 34 ends and 42 picks per inch. An all-cotton imitation is made, but is a very poor substitute. -
56 Pique
Sometimes abbreviated to P.K. See full pique and half pique. A type of seaming for gloves. ———————— Dobby cloths composed of two warps and two wefts. The face warp is lightly weighted, and weaves plain with the face weft. The back warp is heavily weighted, and stitches through the plain face cloth, according to a prearranged design. At the stitching points the face cloth is pulled down, causing the face to form an embossed surface. The second weft is used as wadding to make the raised figuring more pronounced. The face warp and weft are usually finer than those used for stitching and wadding and in the proportion of 2: 1, such as 2 ends 32's face 1 end 24's back. A popular cloth is made 40-in., 40/45 yards, 100 face 32's super Egyptian, 50 back 2/60's super American, 120 face picks 42's super Egyptian, and 64 wadding picks 18's super American. The finer piques are rather expensive. -
57 Salla
An Indian term applied to a Saree cloth woven from 16's to 20's cotton yarns and both warp and weft are in stripes of white and colour. The white warp weaves with white weft, and coloured warp with coloured weft, to produce stripes or check colour effects. -
58 Shot
An American term for picks; also used in some parts of Scotland. A fabric in which the warp and weft are differently coloured, so that according to the manner of holding the fabric, the colours appear to change. The cotton fabric known as " Shots " is used for the proofing trade and made from dyed yarns using one colour for warp and a different colour for weft. Generally 2 & 2 twill weave, about 120 ends and 64 picks per inch, 2/100's warp, 2/100's or 50's weft. -
59 Tissue Checks
Coloured check fabrics principally shipped to the U.S.A. Plain weave cords appear in most designs and the colour amounts vary from 10 per cent to 20 per cent. A standard quality is 31-in., 120 yards, 68 ends and 56 picks per inch, 40's white warp and weft, 50's colour warp and weft, 2/20's white cords in warp and 20's cords in weft. The cloth had a pure Scotch finish. -
60 Silk Fabrics
The Silk Association of Great Britain and Ireland, Inc., has formulated the following definitions of " Silks ": - (1) Silk means the natural product of the silkworm, whether net, spun, or schappe silk. (2) Woven or knitted textiles and articles made therefrom. Silk goods may only be so called if they contain no other fibre than silk. They may be further qualified as pure silk goods if they contain no tin weighting and no added weight of any kind other than that which is an essential part of dyeing and finishing. (3) The word silk may be used for articles containing silk and other fibres provided it is clearly qualified, as for example, silk warp taffeta, silk warp poplin, silk pile velvet, silk mixture, silk union, etc. (4) Smallwares, certain smallwares containing silks in combination with other fibres (such as Paris bindings, gimps, eyeglass cords, etc.), have been by long established custom known as "silks." Only where there is a clear long established custom may they continue to be described as silk, otherwise the general principles set forth above will apply. The more generally known silk fabrics are as given below: - Armures - Barathea, Loisine, Natte, Ottoman, Roy ale. Repp. Figured Silks - Arras, Broche, Brocatelle, Brocades, Chevron, Chine warp prints. Cote-line, Damassin, Foulard, Lampas, Matelasse, Striped tabaret. Satins - Duchesse, Meteor, Mervelleux, Peau de Soie, Radyimar, Raadames, Radium, Satin mousseline. Satin messaline. Satin lus-mineaux. Satin charmeuse. Satin de Lyon, Satin chine. Satin lumiere, Soleil, Soie de Devil. Twills - Serge, Surah, Sarcenat. Velvet, or pile weaves - Terry velvet frese, Utrecht, Velours de nord. Velours de chiffon, Velours de sabre. Silk warp, wool weft - Bengaline, Cotele, Crepon, Irish poplin, Popeline, Poplinette, Sultane, Sicilienne, Velours Victoria, Veloa-tine. Silk warp, cotton weft - Moirette, Polonaise, Satins, Satinet, Striped linings. Taffetas, plain weaves - Bengaline de Soie, Epingle, Faille Francaise, Glace, Gros grain, Gros de Tours, Gros de Naples, Gros de Suez, Lustring, Pongee, Poult de Soie, Royale, Tabaret, Taffeta mousseline. Taffeta chiffon. Crepe de chine, Ninon, tulle, voile, Marquisette, Moire onde. Moire Faconne, Moire Francaise, Moire Antique.
См. также в других словарях:
warp and woof — noun a) The threads in a woven fabric, comprised of the warp (threads running lengthwise) and woof (threads running crosswise) to create a the texture of the fabric. The warp and woof of our lives, sensible, sensitive, a veritable 911, she was… … Wiktionary
weft knit — noun Date: 1943 a knit fabric produced in machine or hand knitting with the yarns running crosswise or in a circle compare warp knit • weft knitted adjective • weft knitting noun … New Collegiate Dictionary
Warp — Warp, n. [AS. wearp; akin to Icel. varp a casting, throwing, Sw. varp the draught of a net, Dan. varp a towline, OHG. warf warp, G. werft. See {Warp}, v.] [1913 Webster] 1. (Weaving) The threads which are extended lengthwise in the loom, and… … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
Warp beam — Warp Warp, n. [AS. wearp; akin to Icel. varp a casting, throwing, Sw. varp the draught of a net, Dan. varp a towline, OHG. warf warp, G. werft. See {Warp}, v.] [1913 Webster] 1. (Weaving) The threads which are extended lengthwise in the loom, and … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
Warp fabric — Warp Warp, n. [AS. wearp; akin to Icel. varp a casting, throwing, Sw. varp the draught of a net, Dan. varp a towline, OHG. warf warp, G. werft. See {Warp}, v.] [1913 Webster] 1. (Weaving) The threads which are extended lengthwise in the loom, and … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
Warp frame — Warp Warp, n. [AS. wearp; akin to Icel. varp a casting, throwing, Sw. varp the draught of a net, Dan. varp a towline, OHG. warf warp, G. werft. See {Warp}, v.] [1913 Webster] 1. (Weaving) The threads which are extended lengthwise in the loom, and … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
Warp knitting — Warp Warp, n. [AS. wearp; akin to Icel. varp a casting, throwing, Sw. varp the draught of a net, Dan. varp a towline, OHG. warf warp, G. werft. See {Warp}, v.] [1913 Webster] 1. (Weaving) The threads which are extended lengthwise in the loom, and … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
Warp lace — Warp Warp, n. [AS. wearp; akin to Icel. varp a casting, throwing, Sw. varp the draught of a net, Dan. varp a towline, OHG. warf warp, G. werft. See {Warp}, v.] [1913 Webster] 1. (Weaving) The threads which are extended lengthwise in the loom, and … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
Warp net — Warp Warp, n. [AS. wearp; akin to Icel. varp a casting, throwing, Sw. varp the draught of a net, Dan. varp a towline, OHG. warf warp, G. werft. See {Warp}, v.] [1913 Webster] 1. (Weaving) The threads which are extended lengthwise in the loom, and … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
Warp-net frame — Warp Warp, n. [AS. wearp; akin to Icel. varp a casting, throwing, Sw. varp the draught of a net, Dan. varp a towline, OHG. warf warp, G. werft. See {Warp}, v.] [1913 Webster] 1. (Weaving) The threads which are extended lengthwise in the loom, and … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
Warp knitting — is a family of knitting methods in which the yarn zigzags along the length of the fabric, i.e., following adjacent columns ( wales ) of knitting, rather than a single row ( course ). For comparison, knitting across the width of the fabric is… … Wikipedia
