x+is+spinning+yarns

Wool yarns of superior quality and appearance spun from the better qualities of wools, and by a much more elaborate preparation for spinning than woollen yarns receive. The aim is to assemble or rearrange the constituent fibres of the yarns as near parallel as possible, and to remove by combing all the short fibres that would otherwise spoil the regularity, smoothness and lustre which is characteristic of worsted yarns. The broad definition that - worsted yarns are combed and woollen yarns are not - still holds good. There are four methods in common use for spinning worsted yarns, i.e., cap spinning, mule, flyer and ring spinning, each having special characteristics that make it more suitable than the other for spinning certain types and counts.

Coarse yarns spun from the waste of the spinner and used as warp for cheap cotton suitings, towels, sheetings, sponge cloth, etc. Its chief characteristic is strength, so it is generally used for warp yarns. The method of spinning diners from that for condenser yarns. As with the condenser system there are two kinds of preparation spinning. The hard waste section includes cop waste, reelers', winders', doublers', ring waste, etc. The soft waste section produces yarns from comber waste, strips, blowings, fly, droppings, etc. The machinery used in the average hard waste mill comprises cop bottom breakers, scutchers, breaker cards, Derby doublers, finisher cards, roving frames, mule or ring frames. The manipulation of the material is the same as for condenser spinning up to and including the Derby doubler. The laps from the Derby doubler are fed to the finisher card in the usual way. As the web reaches the doffer it is divided into four, five, or sometimes six slivers. Each sliver is then drawn through a " trumpet" by rollers, and thence through a coiler into a can (see waste)

A term which originally denoted carded wool yarn spun from wool fibre unsuitable for combing or rejected as noil from the wool combing machine. Now it denotes an infinitely varied class of yarns spun from virgin wool, re-used wool and other materials mixed in every conceivable manner, and prepared for spinning by carding and condensing. Woollen yarns are coarser than worsted and owing to the omission of combing in preparing the yarn for spinning, the component fibres are not parallelised, hence the yarns are fuller and have more projecting ends of fibres due to the presence of a greater proportion of short fibres. Woollen yarn spinning is a means of making serviceable yarns from fibres too short to be used by the worsted method of yarn preparation.

The operation of transferring yarn from one form of package to another, such as winding from hanks to bobbins, from bobbins to cones, from cops to bobbins, etc. The process that follows spinning determines whether winding is necessary or not. Cops and ring tubes or bobbins can be used in that form as weft in the shuttle, but they are not suitable for making into warps, nor as supply to knitting or braiding machines. Yarn in the other forms of spun packages requires to be pirned for use as weft. Although yarn winding is not a fundamental process like spinning and weaving, it occupies a very important place in the economics of yarn processing, and probably embraces a wider range of different machines than any other phase of textile processing. Even a bare catalogue of the different kinds of winding machines would far too lengthy for inclusion here. Broadly, winding machines are adapted for: - 1. Winding yarn for use as weft in loom shuttles, including winding on to wood pirns and paper tubes; solid cops for use in shuttles without tongues; quills for use in ribbon and smallware looms; layer locking at the nose of the pirn to prevent sloughing of rayon weft; bunch building at the base of pirns for use in automatic looms; weft rewound from spinner's cops into larger packages to give maximum length at one filling of the shuttle. The yarn supply can be from hanks, cops, spinner's bobbins, cones, cheeses, warps, etc. 2. Winding yarns for making warps from spinner's cops or bobbins, hanks that have been sized, bleached or dyed, cones, cheeses, and other forms of supply. 3. Winding yarns into suitable form for sizing, bleaching, dyeing, or for receiving other wet treatments, including hanks, warps, cheeses, cops, etc. 4. Winding yarns for knitting, i.e., on to splicer bobbins, cones, pineapple cones, bottle bobbins, etc., and on to bobbins for use in braiding machines. 5. Special process winding such as the precision winding of several threads side by side in tape form for covering wire, etc. 6. Winding yarns into packages for retail selling such as winding mending wools on cards; sewing thread on wood spools or small flangeless cheeses; crochet embroidery and other threads into balls; packing string info balls and cheeses; harvesting twine into large balls and cones, etc.

Fibre manufactured by shredding woollen yarns and rags. The yarns are the wastes, ends and tangled pieces from spinning mills. The rags include new pieces from the cutting tables of clothiers, tailors, etc., old and worn scraps of suits, coats, sweaters, hosiery, dress goods, etc. These materials are treated in machines that tear the fibres apart until the material is reduced to the loose wool state. It is then passed through the carding, drawing and spinning processes. Often it is mixed with new wool or with cotton. A very large trade is done in Yorkshire in converting rags into yarn. Cheap suitings and coatings are made from the yarns.

A variety of American cotton rather short in staple, dirty and soft. It is usually used for mixing with waste for the spinning of yarns for sponge cloths, lamp wicks, rug and carpet yarns, etc. The better qualities make good yarns for weft in cheap raising cloths, especially when mixed with some of the East Indian varieties, in counts up to 20's.

A mule machine used for doubling and twisting two or more threads together at one operation. It has similar general features to the spinning mule, but in the Yorkshire twiner, the spindle carriage is stationary and the creel carrying the supply yarns moves out while twist is inserted and in while the yarn is wound on the spindles in cop form. The supply yarns can be cops, cones or other packages. The yarns can be dry-twisted, or wet doubled, in which case a trough for water or a wetting-out compound is situated between two flannel-covered drag boards.

Flax, Broken - Scutched flax which is less than 20-in. long and therefore unfit for hackling in the spinning mill. Flax, C.D. and T. - Graders' marks which denote the type of scutched flax: c (chaine) to represent warps, D (demi) to represent medium warps, and T (trame) to represent wefts. Flax, Green, or Natural - Scutched flax produced from de-seeded straw without any intermediate treatment such as retting. Flax, Line - The hackled flax produced by a hackling machine or hand hackling. A term sometimes erroneously applied to scutched flax. Flax, Retted - Scutched flax produced from straw which has been retted. Usually divided into three main classes, namely, water retted flax, dew retted flax, and chemically retted flax. Flax, Scutched - The product from the delivery end of a scutching machine or from scutching flax straw on a wheel. It consists of the long fibre strands in a parallel condition and substantially free from wood and other extraneous material. The yield of scutched flax is commonly expressed as stones (14-lb.) per acre, but in Ireland it is sometimes expressed as stones per peck of seed sown. The average yield per acre of scutched flax has varied according to year from about 20 stones per acre to 40 stones per acre, with occasional exceptional yields of 80 and 90 stones per acre. Grader, Flax - The man who places the scutched flaxes in their appropriate grades of quality by eye judgment and feel. Grades, Flax - Tank retted flaxes are graded from A through the alphabet in ascending order of value. Dam retted flaxes are graded from 1-7 in descending order of value. Dew retted flaxes are graded 0-6 in descending order of value. Grades, Tow - Green tow is graded 1-8 and then 9a, 9b, Z, Z₂, and beater tow in descending order of value. Tank retted tow is graded I, II, III, 1, 2, 3, 3X, 3XXX, in descending order, whilst dam and dew retted tows are I, II, II, 1, 2, 3. Pluckings - The short, clean fibre produced at the end of the scutching machine where the operatives dress and square the pieces of flax ready for selection. In grading pluckings are classed as tow (q.v.). Root Ends, Straw - The broken-off roots which fall from the straw under the breaking rollers. Rug, Scutching - All the detritus which falls below the two compartments of the scutching machine after the shives have been shaken out of it, or the waste made when producing scutched flax on a wheel. It consists of partly scutched short straws, broken straws, weeds, and beater tow. It is classed as root end rug or top end rug, according to which end of the flax it comes from. Selection - The preliminary sorting of the scutched flax into main grades at the delivery end of the scutching machine. Shives - The short pieces of woody waste beaten from the straw during scutching. Tow - Any substantially clean but tossed and tangled flax fibre of less than scutched flax length. Tow Baling - The operation of making-up tow into bales. Tow, Beater - Short, fine, clean fibres which fall from the last third of the compartments during scutching. Tow, Inferior low grade (Green) - Green tow of a grade lower than 9a. Tow, Inferior low grade (Retted) - Retted tow of a grade lower than 3XXX. Tow, Machine, or Cast - Tow produced by the hackling machine. Tow, Rejected - Tow unsuitable for spinning on flax tow machinery. Tow, Rescutched - Two scutched on tow handles or a tow scutching machine. Tow, Rolled - The product from passing scutching rug through tow rollers and highspeed shaker. Tow, Rolled and Beaten - The product from passing scutching rug through tow rollers and beaters, and a high-speed shaker. The principal flax markets of the world are at Courtrai, Bruges, Ghent, Lokeren and Zele in Belgium; Rotterdam in Holland; Riga in Latvia; Leningrad, Pernau and Witebek in Russia; Douai and Flines in France; Newry, Rathfriland, Strabane, Ballymoney, Lisnaskea, Ballybay and Armagh in Ireland. Courtrai flax is the finest produced. It is uniform in fibre, strong, clean and of a good colour. Yarns up to 200's lea are spun from it. Irish flax comes next in spinning qualities from 90's to 120's lea are produced. As a warp yarn it is much preferred as the strength is greater than other types. Flemish flax is dark in colour, dryer than others, strong, and can be spun up to 120's lea. Dutch flax is clean, good colour and spins into yams up to 90's lea. Russian flax is coarser than the above types and is usually spun up to about 70's lea.

ЗАПРАВЛЯТЬ АРАПА (кому) substand VP subj: human often neg imper X is playing Y for a fool (in limited contexts) X is spinning Y yarns (of lighthearted kidding) X is putting Y on X is pulling Y's leg.

The term in America for a cotton dress material, made of print or grandrelle yarns. Plain or 2 X 2 twill, and yams are in black and white, or grey if grandrelle, and if print the printing is in the sliver form. ———————— The colour of natural wool. ———————— A dress fabric, twill weave, made of fibres dyed before spinning. Different coloured fibres may be mixed, resulting in a mottled yarn. One quality is made 76 X 72 per inch, 36's/36's, all worsted yarns.

The waste used in the spinning of cotton condenser yarns is chiefly the best class of hard waste, viz., cop bottoms, with sometimes a judicious addition of reelers' and winders' waste. The selection of material to be used in the production of condenser yams requires very careful attention and no small amount of skill and experience. Apart from colour, the guiding feature in the mixing of cop bottoms is uniformity of counts of the waste threads within certain limits. When one considers the factors employed in determining the standard amount of twist per inch in cotton yarns, viz., counts X 3.25 for weft, and counts X 3.75 for twist, it is obvious that if, say, 24's American and 80's Egyptian were mixed together the treatment necessary to tear the threads of 24's back again into fibre would not be nearly sufficient to put the 80's into the same condition. The result would be badly broken-up material, which would hamper the subsequent operations to an alarming extent. Assuming, then, that the waste purchased is of suitable quality, the first operation is to put down a mixing of the selected grades. The most satisfactory method is to spread layer after layer until the mixing is of sufficient size or weight. The attendant should then pull the waste along the whole of the face of the mixing. In this way a thorough blending takes place, with the risk of variation in shade reduced to a minimum.

Silk noils may be divided into two major divisions, i.e., Schappe noils, produced on the Continent, and English noils. The broad difference is that whereas the former are not free from the natural gum of the silkworm, the latter have the gum fully discharged. Owing to the difference of the processes of which they are the outcome, the English noil is whiter and longer than the schappe noil. The English noil in its turn is of two kinds "long" and "exhaust." The long noil is the simple by-product of the flat-dressing frame, and the exhaust (or short) noil has been recombed and is more " neppy " than the material from which it came. All silk noils, long or short, schappe or English, may be divided into " white " and " tussah " according as they are the produce of one kind of silk or the other. The white has many sub-divisions (" China " and " Italian," " Steam," etc.) and the tussah may be light or dark brown according as its origin is Chinese or Indian waste silk. These noils, after spinning, appear as noil yarns, which are useful among other purposes as striping yarn for cheap tweeds. They are also useful substitutes for " spun " silk at three to four times the price. Noils are used in the production of fancy effects by Continental spinners of the so-called " imitation " yarns. And in Yorkshire silk noils are periodically required by costume and dress tweed makers for procuring " knop " or snowflake effects in cheap woollens. For this purpose the " short " or " exhaust " noil is preferable to the " long " and in some circumstances the short or re-combed noil fetches a higher price than the intrinsically better noil containing the long fibre.

This term is often applied to the waste spinning mule. It originally denoted the machine used to prepare yarns for the spinning jenny, in which the slivers were fed on to a fixed framework and the spindles traversed to and fro on a carriage.