thread-lace

Lace was originally a heavy texture more like embroidery and of two kinds, Lacis or "darned netting" and Cutwork. Laces, often worked in gold threads and coloured silks was also called " spiderwork." Lace is purely an English word, derived from the Anglo-Norman lacier, to lace, bind, tie or fasten, etc. The word appears to have been first used in 1519. It is a fabric of open mesh or net formed by crossing and intertwining threads. Lace was originally purely a hand craft, but today it is machine made as well. There are three main classes: - Point lace, pillow lace and machine-made lace. Point Lace - When the term " Point " is applied to a lace fabric it should mean that the lace has been made by the needle with a single line of thread, but it is now given to many machine-made laces. There are numerous laces sold as point laces and each has some feature not possessed by any other, many of these laces are known by the town where they are manufactured. Pillow Lace - These laces are made by intertwining threads on pins fixed in a cushion over a pattern fastened on to the cushion. Many pillow laces are part hand and part machine made such as Honiton, Valenciennes, Irish, etc. Machine-made Laces - There are three principal classes which can be placed (1) warp fabrics; (2) plain nets; (3) Levers' laces. Warp Laces - This is the earliest form of lace produced on a machine which was the invention of the Rev. William Lee in 1589, and was an adaption of the stocking frame. A warp lace is a series of upright threads that twist upon each other to form a fabric. There are no crossing threads. They are made in widths up to 10-in. and are the cheapest laces made. Plain Nets - John Heathcote, the inventor of the bobbin-net machine in 1809, laid the foundation of the machine-made lace trade. These are formed by a diagonal bobbin thread intertwining with the upright warp threads so that when the web is taken off the machine the mesh is honeycomb shaped. Other shapes followed, such as the square mesh. Cotton, silk, mohair and rayon are all used in making plain nets. Standard plain nets are as follows: - Brussels Net - Close mesh, specially selected fine yarns, in widths 36-in. to 80-in. The mesh varies up to 20 holes per inch. Both stiff and soft finish. Mosquito Net - Made in many qualities and closeness of mesh and from 54-in. to 108-in. Cable Net - Made up to 300-in. wide and from coarser yarns than other laces. This fabric is used as the ground fabric for curtains, etc. Bretonne Net - A very fine fabric, close mesh and finer yarns than Brussels, very soft and smooth finish. Point d'esprit - Fabrics with spots at regular distances. The yarns are not as good a quality as Brussels. Finished both soft and stiff. Paris Nets - Very stiff finish, used by the millinery trade for foundation work. Illusion Nets - A star-shaped mesh fabric, very fine yarns, used for veils and evening dress purposes. Silk Mechlins, or Tulles - A net more round than square in mesh and made from fine silk yarns. Malines is a tulle made in Belgium. Chantilly, or Silk Brussels - Similar to Brussels, but made from black dyed silk yarns. Chambray Nets - A finer all silk net than Chantilly. Levers' Lace Fabrics - These are various fancy laces and are produced on the lace machine fitted with a jacquard. Samuel Draper of Nottingham combined the jacquard with the lace machine in 1813. John Levers invented the machine. Varieties of these laces are Cluny laces. Torchons, Maltese lace. All-overs and numerous others.

These are doubled yarns made from good quality cotton in counts from 60's up to 240's. Usually hard twisted and gassed Sakel., to give a smooth thread. The sheen and general appearance is very important.

[leɪs] رِباط تخْريم بالأبْرَه يرْبُط، يَشُد

Lace trade term for a bordering thread thicker than the other threads of the lace and usually indicates the pattern.

A hand-made lace with small designs of sprigs,flowers,leaves, etc.,of great artistry. Originally made at Honiton, Devon. This handsome lace is still being made at Honiton and district, either applique or guipure. Until 1567 this lace was made of silk and coarse thread and about that year the Flemings introduced fine thread.

A hand-made lace of gold and silver thread work. This is very scarce. A machine-made variety is much cheaper. The hand-made is a guipure lace, while the machine-made has a net foundation with metal thread designs woven in.

There are two kinds, drawn thread and pillow. The drawn thread work is of good quality, but the pillow lace is quite ordinary and only used among the natives.

Hand-made pillow lace of heavy linen thread, in a large, open rectangular knotted mesh; used for curtains, bed sets, draperies, etc. Usually contain rare patterns, all kinds of designs being worked in the net by darning. This lace is hand-made and is expensive. Imitation antique lace is sometimes used in draperies.

Also known as Roman lace, Reticella and Italian Reticella. It is a needle-made lace first done during the 15th century. The designs are nearly always geometrical, worked in silk. The modern lace is only made in linen thread, but in fancy designs.

A French bobbin lace, made with close patterns of gold or silver thread in Aurilliac (see Lace)

Another name for Pillow Lace. It is hand-made lace worked on a cushion from bobbins of thread. The pattern is drawn upon parchment which is then perforated with tiny holes. This pricked pattern is placed on the cushion, on the upper part of the pattern are fastened the ends of the threads unwound from the bobbins, which thus hang across the pillow. These bobbins are then twisted and so worked as to form the fabric.

A fine lace tape similar to Duchesse Lace, used for expensive dresses as trimmings. Coarser varieties (thicker thread) are used for table sets, etc.

The fine hand-worked lace done in cottages in Buckinghamshire in old designs. A bobbin lace, considered superior to that of Bedford in the 18th century. Had reseau grounds, and the design outlined with a thick thread.

A light, fine, transparent, white thread hand-made lace. Has a diamond mesh, formed of two threads plaited to a perpendicular line. Also called Lisle lace.

Any hand-knitted lace made with the crochet hook. Similar to needle-point lace, but coarser; they imitate such laces as Venetian and Honiton. Irish crochet is the most popular and is of linen thread. Imitations come from many Eurpoean and Asiatic countries. The various design elements are made separately and joined together by bars.

Term for any square mesh net lace. Originally was a darned or embroidered square net with a continuous thread. The best filet lace is expensive, but very durable. A Chinese variety is made of coarse yarn and is cheaper.

Fine lace, for edges and trimmings, both hand-made and machine-made. It is one of the plainest of bobbin laces and is made by peasants in most European countries. The better quality is of linen thread and the cheaper are of cotton and commonly called " Beggars " or " Bavarian " lace.

The process of gassing cotton yarns was devised by Samuel Hall in 1817. Patent No. 4177 was for the thread and No. 4178 was for gauze or cloth, or lace. He marketed his patent gassed thread under the name of G. F. Uriing & Co., London, in the same year. This process was so successful that Mr. Hall received ???10,000 to ???15,000 yearly by gassing other maker's goods at three farthings per square yard.

Bobbin lace imitating Spanish point. Made from black thread and used as head scarfs or for shawls.

A trimming lace made of silk thread and having glass beads for ornament.