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21 Bengaline
A silk fabric with cords across the piece as in a poplin. The cords are of wool, cotton or silk. If all silk, known as Bengaline de Soie. A cotton bengaline is made of all cotton, with a 2/60's warp and 6's or 8's weft. A 32's fine weft is used as well. Mercerised finish (picking is one coarse, one fine). The weave is plain, and coarse yarn is used for ribs, and space between each rib has a finer weft. The real cloth has a silk warp and worsted weft - 13/15 denier to 20/22 denier warp, 2/40's worsted for fine picks, with a thick cabled worsted yarn for cords. They are sometimes figured, as seen in the illustration, which is woven with a plain cord ground. The yarns are all botany worsted, viz., 2/76's-warp and 56's weft, 45-in. cloth from 50-in. warp. The variety known as Bengaline Marquise has a spun silk warp and worsted weft
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22 Crepes
These are made in many widths and qualities, and in cotton, wool, rayon, silk and combinations of these, such as cotton warp and rayon weft, rayon warp and silk weft, etc. In crepes dependent solely on the contractile power of highly twisted yarns for producing a wrinkled pebble or figure effect, the hard-twisted warps and wefts are used in various ways, as follows: - In each case R= right twist; L=left or reverse twist. Warp 2 R, 2 L, alternately. Weft all one twist. Warp 2 R, 2 L, alternately. Weft 2 R, 2 L. Warp all one twist. Weft 2 R, 2 L alternately. Warp 1 R, 1 L, alternately. Weft 2 R, 2 L, alternately. Other arrangements of warp and weft are also used. -
23 Melton
A heavy smooth cloth, made all wool or from cotton warp and wool weft. Woven 76-in. to So-in, to finish 50-in. to 56-in. wide, and about 24-oz. per yard. The cloth is raised and cropped and very heavily milled. The 2 & 2 twill is used, especially in the all-wool styles. Meltons, kerseys and tweeds for coatings and uniforms are very similar in appearance when finished. Fig. A gives a popular design on 4-shafts and 8 picks, made 82-in. wide to finish when milled and dyed 58-in. wide, wool yarns 28 yards per dram warp and 22 yards weft. The warp is openband (twist to the left) and the weft crossband (twist to the right) and soft spun. Reed 4 in a dent 52-ends per inch, 80 picks per inch, weight 32-oz. per yard. Design B gives a cheap style of Melton in which cotton warp and mungo weft is used. Made 80-in. to finish 54-in., 52 ends and 52 picks per inch, 2/40's Egyptian cotton warp, 7 yards per dram mungo weft. This cloth costs about 60 per cent less than the above.
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24 Taffeta
TAFFETA, TAFFETY(Taffetas), French-Silk fabric known in England as early as the 14th century and probably manufactured in Brittany, where it was called Taftas. It was used for the lining of rich mantles. It was much used in the 16th century for various articles of dress. The word taffeta is now used to describe various cloths in the plain weave. One is closely woven all-silk fabric in which the number of ends per inch is about the same as the picks, the warp and weft are of the same count. Silk taffeta as made in France is plain weave with organzine silk warp and tram weft, 180 to 200 ends and 72 to 100 picks per inch, widths 27-in., 36-in. and 40-in. There is a fair weight of loading on these cloths. When made with weft differing in colour from the warp the cloth is known as " Taffetas Glace." Bradford produces a wool taffeta much used for better-class shirts. A large trade is done in cotton taffeta 36-in. to 40-in. wide, 60 ends and 100 picks per inch, 2/80's warp, 2/20's weft. This cloth is both bleached and dyed. A lower cotton taffeta is made with 72 ends and 96 picks per inch, 42's warp, 28's weft, dyed in all colours. -
25 Taffety
TAFFETA, TAFFETY(Taffetas), French-Silk fabric known in England as early as the 14th century and probably manufactured in Brittany, where it was called Taftas. It was used for the lining of rich mantles. It was much used in the 16th century for various articles of dress. The word taffeta is now used to describe various cloths in the plain weave. One is closely woven all-silk fabric in which the number of ends per inch is about the same as the picks, the warp and weft are of the same count. Silk taffeta as made in France is plain weave with organzine silk warp and tram weft, 180 to 200 ends and 72 to 100 picks per inch, widths 27-in., 36-in. and 40-in. There is a fair weight of loading on these cloths. When made with weft differing in colour from the warp the cloth is known as " Taffetas Glace." Bradford produces a wool taffeta much used for better-class shirts. A large trade is done in cotton taffeta 36-in. to 40-in. wide, 60 ends and 100 picks per inch, 2/80's warp, 2/20's weft. This cloth is both bleached and dyed. A lower cotton taffeta is made with 72 ends and 96 picks per inch, 42's warp, 28's weft, dyed in all colours. -
26 Amazon
A dress fabric woven from worsted yarns for warp and woollen for weft, either with the 2 X 1 warp twill or 5-end satin weave. The sett in the warp is much closer than in weft. The finish is a raised one. The illustration shows the 5-end satin design. One quality is made 40's worsted warp, 32's woollen weft, 80 X 40, per inch. Also made with wool warp and worsted weft in 5-end satin weave with twill running to the left. About 80 X 48, 2/60's warp, 40's worsted weft, from 45 to 56-in. The finish is nap raised and dress-face. Shrinkage about 12 per cent
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27 Mummy Cloth
A fabric resembling crepe, composed of silk warp and wool weft in the best qualities, with cotton warp in lower grades, and used as mourning in black because of its lustreless surface. Fine closely woven plain linen fabric used in ancient Egypt for wrapping mummies. The best examples have two-fold warp and single weft and two or three times as many warp ends as picks. One example has 140 ends and 64 picks per inch, 100's linen warp and weft. One wrapping cloth from a mummy contained 540 threads of warp per inch. Unbleached, plain woven, heavy linen or cotton fabrics, used as a ground cloth for embroidery is known as mummy. A crinkled lustreless black cloth made with cotton warp and wool weft is called momie cloth. -
28 Tussores
Good quality dress fabric made from mercerised cotton yarns in a plain weave. Fine warp and coarse weft gives the cloth a cord effect. About 72 to 100 ends and 36 to 44 picks per inch, 60's or 2/100's warp, 6's to 10's weft, or 2/14's, 2/16's. The tussores for Egypt and other Near East markets are made from all-coloured warp yarns and grey weft. Brown, fawn, and light grounds, with darker coloured yarns form stripes. About 72 ends and 38 picks per inch, 36's/10's warp and weft, or 24's/12's warp and weft. -
29 Paramatta
Originally this term was applied to a dress fabric having a silk warp and worsted weft. The name came from the town in New South Wales where the paramatta wool came from. When made of worsted warp and weft the cloth was known as Coburg. It is now made with a cotton warp and botany weft in 2 & 1 weft twill weave, and used for proofing. One quality is made 60 ends and 128 picks per inch, 40's warp, 60's weft, botany yarns. -
30 Tennis Cloth
Cotton cloth made in several qualities from bleached or cream warp and weft and soft finished. In narrow widths 28-in. to 33-in., 76 ends and 52 to 60 picks per inch, 16's warp, 16's weft, 2 & 2 matting, 2 & 2 twill and other weaves. Stripes of mercerised yarn and spun silk yarn introduced in many of them. Used for dress purposes, and shirtings. Also made at Bradford, 80 ends and 72 picks per inch, 18's warp, 18's weft, 2 & 2 twill, all cotton, or cotton warp and wool weft. The original fabric was an all-wool production. 60 ends and 60 picks per inch, 2/30's botany warp and weft. -
31 Atlas
A name given to gowns and petticoats about 1712 when there were advertised for sale "a purple and gold atlas gown", "a scarlet and gold atlas petticoat edged with silver", and "a blue and gold atlas gown and petticoat". ———————— A warp knit cotton fabric used very extensively for fabric gloves. The principal feature is the striped appearance of the back which shows horizontal stripes from 3/8-in. to 3/4-in. wide. In making this type of fabric, the yarn guides move in one direction for a number of courses and then reverse for a similar number. Two bars are generally used and they move in opposite directions. One series of warp threads arc used for single atlas with a traverse lap; or two series of warps making similar laps, but in opposite directions for double atlas, and this is perfectly ladder-proof, whereas the single atlas is not. The double atlas is largely used in making rayon lingerie. ———————— The German, Dutch, Russian and Danish name for the 5-end satin weave. The term is used to indicate the satin ground weave used in damasks, thus: - The 5-end atlas is the ordinary 5-end satin, and so on to 16-end atlas. A lining cloth - cotton warp and silk weft - woven 5-shaft sateen - giving a weft face of silk in many qualities. Another Atlas fabric with cotton warp and silk weft is made with the 8-shaft sateen weave. -
32 Bedford Cords
Fabrics having cords or ribs in the direction of the warp produced by interweaving the weft in plain or twill order with alternate groups of warp threads. The ribs may be emphasised by the addition of wadding or stuffing warp threads. Generally woven in dobby looms. All cotton, all wool or mixed. A standard cotton cloth is made 36-in., 144 X 100 per inch, 40's/50's, with 20's wadding ends. The diagram gives the weave. When the face ends X are weaving plain in one section, the face ends are lifted in the other section, this is for two picks, and then the weave is reversed. The plain ends are separated in the reed.
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Another cloth is made 30-in. from 24's warp, 36's weft, with every seventh cord made from coloured yarn. A heavy cloth is made for use as riding breeches in many qualities. Also made with wool yams. The illustration (A) shows a fancy Bedford cord for dress goods. There are ten padding cords to the inch, as shown by the broader cord stripes. These dress goods styles are made from a two-fold warp and single weft, all Egyptian yams. Fabric B is a three-colour fancy weave.
The term " London Cord " is given to a heavy cotton Bedford Cord, woven with a 2 X 1 twill face. One quality is 88 X 80 per inch, 16/20's. Frequently padding ends are used to give prominence to the cords. Bedford Cord shirtings are made from the 144 X 110 cloth, usually 33/34-in. and with coloured stripes
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33 Canvas
There are many fabrics termed canvas. The principal kinds are: - Cloths for embroidering, which are very strong, plain weave, from two, three or fourfold yarns, and a more or less open texture. Java Canvas is a fabric made from hard twist, yarns (loth warp and weft) and a mock leno weave. A Canvas which is shipped grey or finished, and made from coarse yams, hard twist, about 8's warp, 12's weft, 40-ends, 34 picks, in widths 26-in. to 32-m in plain weave. Sail Canvas is a stout built cloth from two-fold linen warp and coarse cotton weft. A Dress Canvas, woven from linen warp and cotton weft, such as 60's linen and 32's cotton, 74 ends and 76 picks per inch, 39 in wide, dyed in many colours Canvas Duck is made from coarse tow yarns, low reeds and picks, and in many qualities. Panama Canvas, Penelope Canvas, Prelate Canvas, Asticot Canvas, Astoli Canvas - See under the various names. -
34 Satin Alcyonne
A satin first made in France over 100 years ago in the common 5-shaft weave, two-fold warp and single weft, warp and weft of different colours. Owing to the number of ends being twice as many per inch as weft threads, the fabric had a warp face of one colour and a weft back of another. The same cloth with single warp ends was known as satin de Chine. -
35 Folgorant
A fabric woven from a cotton warp and rayon weft in a 5-shaft twill weave. Set about 46 ends and 88 picks per inch in narrow width, about 271/2-in. The warp is 2/50's cotton and the weft 120 denier rayon. The fabric is Italian. A crinkled effect is produced during finishing, when an embossing calender is used. The warp is yam dyed in dark colours and white or a light shade of coloured weft is used and, being finer set than the warp, gives various effects according to the way in which light strikes the fabric. -
36 Barrege
A mixture cloth of silk warp and wool weft with an open or gauze weave. Chiefly used as head coverings in religious ceremonies. Imitated recently with cotton warps, 64 X 52, 120's/90's botany. The illustration shows a cloth made 104 X 30 per inch, from a silk and fine worsted doubled warp and silk weft. The weft and worsted warp are dyed red, and the white silk warp gives a neat striping. Flaked yarn is often made use of for further effect
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37 Cerise Cloth
A dress fabric made on check looms using a worsted warp, white or dyed and 2, 3 or 4 wefts in various colours. The warp and one weft are the same colour, say white; if two only are used the second weft, say red, will form a stripe on the face of the cloth on a white ground. The weft forming the stripe is wool and the ground weft worsted. One quality is made 72-in. (loom), 46-ends 30's white worsted per inch, 43 picks 30's white worsted for ground, and 43 picks of 6's run in red per inch. Woven pick and pick, as design, on 12 shafts. The weight is 111/2-oz. per yard. The cloth is felted and nap finished, and the result is clear-cut stripes on the face and back. In the design illustrated dots show red wool picks forming stripe, and full squares the ground picks
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38 Duvetine
Is made from a twofold cotton warp and schappe silk weft in the 1 X 3 weft twill weave. Finished by raising, cropping and brushing the face of the fabric. Dyed grey and brown and looks like doeskin. Used for collars, trimmings, handbags, etc. The name is derived from the French word " duvet " meaning " down " and is thus meant to be a soft downy fabric. The finishing process is a specialised one as the cloth has to be washed, dyed, raised on the face by emery rollers, cropped, and singed in order',to produce a very soft and velvet finish. Also known as " Mouse-skin." Another variety is made with a worsted warp and tussah weft and slightly raised on the face; weave, 4-shaft twill, 1 X 3 lift, weft face, in 56-in. width. -
39 Duvetyn
Is made from a twofold cotton warp and schappe silk weft in the 1 X 3 weft twill weave. Finished by raising, cropping and brushing the face of the fabric. Dyed grey and brown and looks like doeskin. Used for collars, trimmings, handbags, etc. The name is derived from the French word " duvet " meaning " down " and is thus meant to be a soft downy fabric. The finishing process is a specialised one as the cloth has to be washed, dyed, raised on the face by emery rollers, cropped, and singed in order',to produce a very soft and velvet finish. Also known as " Mouse-skin." Another variety is made with a worsted warp and tussah weft and slightly raised on the face; weave, 4-shaft twill, 1 X 3 lift, weft face, in 56-in. width. ———————— A very soft woollen fabric resembling velvet and having a fine short nap that is raised during the process of finishing and gives the material a silky appearance. Used for coats, suits and dresses. -
40 Lastings
A very stout twill cloth woven with hard-twisted yarns, generally cotton all through, although wool is sometimes used. It is used chiefly for boot and bag linings when of the twill weave. This style of cloth when figured is used for church furniture. When dyed and of plain weave it is shipped to parts of South America as " Las tings " usually with a stiff glaze finish, and used as trouserings by the natives. Made in various widths and qualities. A popular quality is 24-in., 64 ends and 60 picks per inch, 20's warp, 24's weft. A mixture cloth is made in the five-end satin weave, with 104 ends and 68 picks per inch, 2/50's worsted warp and 16's or 24's cotton weft. The term originally meant a woollen fabric made of combed wool, having two- or three-fold warp and single weft, made 18-in. wide and dyed black.
См. также в других словарях:
warp and woof — noun a) The threads in a woven fabric, comprised of the warp (threads running lengthwise) and woof (threads running crosswise) to create a the texture of the fabric. The warp and woof of our lives, sensible, sensitive, a veritable 911, she was… … Wiktionary
Warp — Warp, n. [AS. wearp; akin to Icel. varp a casting, throwing, Sw. varp the draught of a net, Dan. varp a towline, OHG. warf warp, G. werft. See {Warp}, v.] [1913 Webster] 1. (Weaving) The threads which are extended lengthwise in the loom, and… … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
Warp beam — Warp Warp, n. [AS. wearp; akin to Icel. varp a casting, throwing, Sw. varp the draught of a net, Dan. varp a towline, OHG. warf warp, G. werft. See {Warp}, v.] [1913 Webster] 1. (Weaving) The threads which are extended lengthwise in the loom, and … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
Warp fabric — Warp Warp, n. [AS. wearp; akin to Icel. varp a casting, throwing, Sw. varp the draught of a net, Dan. varp a towline, OHG. warf warp, G. werft. See {Warp}, v.] [1913 Webster] 1. (Weaving) The threads which are extended lengthwise in the loom, and … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
Warp frame — Warp Warp, n. [AS. wearp; akin to Icel. varp a casting, throwing, Sw. varp the draught of a net, Dan. varp a towline, OHG. warf warp, G. werft. See {Warp}, v.] [1913 Webster] 1. (Weaving) The threads which are extended lengthwise in the loom, and … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
Warp knitting — Warp Warp, n. [AS. wearp; akin to Icel. varp a casting, throwing, Sw. varp the draught of a net, Dan. varp a towline, OHG. warf warp, G. werft. See {Warp}, v.] [1913 Webster] 1. (Weaving) The threads which are extended lengthwise in the loom, and … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
Warp lace — Warp Warp, n. [AS. wearp; akin to Icel. varp a casting, throwing, Sw. varp the draught of a net, Dan. varp a towline, OHG. warf warp, G. werft. See {Warp}, v.] [1913 Webster] 1. (Weaving) The threads which are extended lengthwise in the loom, and … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
Warp net — Warp Warp, n. [AS. wearp; akin to Icel. varp a casting, throwing, Sw. varp the draught of a net, Dan. varp a towline, OHG. warf warp, G. werft. See {Warp}, v.] [1913 Webster] 1. (Weaving) The threads which are extended lengthwise in the loom, and … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
Warp-net frame — Warp Warp, n. [AS. wearp; akin to Icel. varp a casting, throwing, Sw. varp the draught of a net, Dan. varp a towline, OHG. warf warp, G. werft. See {Warp}, v.] [1913 Webster] 1. (Weaving) The threads which are extended lengthwise in the loom, and … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
warp — [wôrp] n. [ME < OE wearp < base of weorpan, to throw, akin to Ger werfen < IE * werb < base * wer , to turn, bend > WORM] 1. a) a distortion, as a twist or bend, in wood or in an object made of wood, caused by contraction in drying … English World dictionary
warp — ► VERB 1) make or become bent or twisted, typically from the action of heat or damp. 2) make abnormal; distort. 3) move (a ship) along by hauling on a rope attached to a stationary object ashore. ► NOUN 1) a distortion or twist in shape. 2) the… … English terms dictionary
