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41 Broche
(1) A loom embroidered fabric where the figuring is produced by swivel shuttles. Made from all-silk yarns. The fabrics are very expensive. An example of a broche is shown in the illustration - woven with four swivel shuttles. There is thus no waste of figuring yam by this method. This cloth is of French make. (2) The French term for brocaded fabrics in which the ornament is produced by additional threads that do not form part of the structure itself. The extra threads float at the back when not used for figure, and the floats are removed during finishing
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42 Broken Twill Sateen
This is a cotton fabric in which the five-shaft sateen weave is used, but with the twill line showing faintly and running to the right. The twill line is thus broken, giving a smooth surface. The illustration shows the weave. The weft is spun weft way, which distinguishes this cloth from the French twill, which is twist-way spun weft
Dictionary of the English textile terms > Broken Twill Sateen
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43 Full-Cross Leno
A leno weave in which the doup threads are caused to completely encircle their standard threads. The threads A in the illustration are over picks i, but before pick 2 they pass once round the threads B and then below pick 2. The standard threads B pass under picks 1 and over picks 2. The full-cross leno was first introduced as a fine silk fabric of the nun's veiling class.
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44 вставка
* * *Вставка -- insert (деталь); inset (в рисунке)An inset at the top of the figure continues the presentation for larger times.Русско-английский научно-технический словарь переводчика > вставка
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45 Applique
These fabrics are constructed by sewing two cloths together. The thread that binds is worked in some design, and, after stitching the top cloth, is cut away round the stitches, leaving the required portions stitched. to the lower cloth. The illustration gives an applique effect with plain cloth squares on a crepe ground. This is a handicraft process
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46 Boucle
An imitation astrakhan or cloth having knots, loops or curls on the surface. The illustration gives an example of the cloth 64-in., 19 X 16 per inch, 2's/8's worsted corkscrew warp, 41/2 drams per yard, woollen weft, 54-in. finished. The name is French for buckled. The term is rather loosely applied to all fabrics having curls, knots or loops on the surface
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47 Delaine
A light, all-wool cloth of plain weave, usually printed either in the piece or warp printed. The illustration is typical of the type of design printed on wool delaines, four or more colours often being employed. The term is derived from " Mousseline delaine," which signifies " wool muslin." A good quality is made 54 ends and 64 picks per inch, 46's/64's botany, but up to 64 ends and 70 picks per inch, and from 40's to 70's yarn are used. The example illustrated is made with 56 ends and 50 picks per inch, 46's worsted warp, 64's worsted weft. Cotton delaines are now made as imitations, and a general term for the cotton cloth is "delainette".
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48 Bourette
A fabric woven from the silk waste yarns of this name which gives a knotty and uneven surface. Plain weave, in coarse reed and pick of several qualities. Much used for men's and women's clothing, which are cheap but very durable
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A silk dress material in which a rough surface is produced by using lumpy knotted yams. The roughness is in both warp and weft and this forms the stripes and checks as seen in the illustration. Many qualities are also made from silk waste yams, very rough and knotty, in the plain weaves. -
49 Brightons
Woollen fabrics in the Brighton weave used for vestings. Silk spots are often introduced for ornament. The effect is a small honeycomb on the face. Rayon is now used largely in place of silk. The illustration shows the design for a cotton cloth in this weave on 8-shafts; 84 X 72 per inch, 32's/2/60's yarns
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50 Brocades
Originally meant a silk cloth with figuring threads of gold and silver. At the present time it indicates a figured fabric of single texture, with the figure developed or bound in a more or less irregular order, and the ground formed by a weave of a simple character. Cotton Brocades have only one warp and one weft. Silk and Upholstery Brocades may have several wefts of different colours. Name is derived from the Spanish " Brocade " (to figure). There are a great many qualities manufactured today. The illustration gives a dress-goods brocade of a super quality made from a silk warp and a super Egyptian cotton weft
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51 Canille
Canille stripes and checks. A name given to effects in colour yarn, such as black and white, blue and white, etc., at short intervals, somewhat resembling joints in bamboo. Woven on plain grounds. Where not required on the face the colour threads float at the back. The illustration gives an idea of the style (see Cannelle)
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52 Chiffon Velvet
A soft and light-weight silk velvet with ribs from selvedge to selvedge. The warp pile is made by the use of wires and well bound into the cloth. The ground is plain weave The illustration shows a printed style
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53 Coatings
A heavy drill cloth, woven in the 3 X 1 weave, and dyed black with a glossy finish. Variety is obtained by introducing the satin weave and cords in length-wise stripes, and small spots. Qualities vary up to 130 ends and 68 picks. A typical make is 29-in. wide, 92/48 per inch, 2/32's T., 20's W. Another make is 48-in. splits, 116/48 per inch, 28's T., 12's W. The illustration shows a black China coating with cords
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A general term in the woollen trade for the heavy fabrics from which ladies' coats are made. They include twills, honeycombs, stripes, checks, and many other effects. -
54 Constitutional
A very heavy corduroy cloth used principally for upholstery purposes. Broad cords run down the piece It is woven in a low count of reed, such as 40 ends per inch, with 2/28's to 2/32's twist but the picks vary from 400 to 440 per inch, of 20's to 24's weft. The ground weave is 2 & 2 twill with 2 pile to 1 ground pick as in the illustration. The pile floats over 6 ends then 8 ends
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55 Flocks
Waste fibres obtained from wool during the different finishing processes. There are three kinds, of different values: - Milling flocks are the most valuable, as they can be used for blending with wool to produce a lower grade. Cropping flocks are very short fibres, removed during the cutting or cropping process, and principally used by wallpaper manufacturers. Raising flocks are similar to the milling, but not as valuable. The illustration shows an expensive wallpaper printed with flocks to give a raised and warm pattern.
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56 устанавливать в нужное положение
•To bring the next hole into position,...
•The mechanism positions the indicator as shown in the illustration.
Русско-английский научно-технический словарь переводчика > устанавливать в нужное положение
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57 Bang-Thro Prints
A term given to a style of designs printed so heavily that both design and colour show on the back as well as on the face. The copper roller is cut deeper than for ordinary printing in order to take up more colour. The illustration is an example (see also Pushing)
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58 Broken Twill
A weave in which the twill line is broken by a deviation from a regular step, as in the satin weave. The illustration shows the four-shaft and six-shaft weaves. Other broken twill weaves are: - Coutil, Campball, Cut Checks, Cut Stripes, Chevron, Arrowhead or Feather, Lorraine, Mayo and Metz Cord (see under each name)
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59 Canton
A strong twill cloth, all-cotton, grey or bleached, and raised on one side. About 27-m. to 30 in. wide, and dyed bright colours. The heavier make is the 2-and-2 twill and the lighter one 2-and-1 twill. It was first shipped to Canton, whence it got its name. The illustration shows one cloth. Another class is made from a cotton warp and botany weft, such as 66 X 88 per inch, 52's cotton warp, 60's botany weft
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60 Cellular
A leno fabric having an open or cell-like structure, and specially suited for shirtings and underwear. A common style is made 28-in., 120 yards, 32 X 40 per inch, 2/24's 24's, 23-lb. Better cloth is made from super yarns such as 2/40's ground and 2/30's crossing warps. The take-up of the crossing warp is about 70 per cent., thus for 100 yards of cloth 170 yards of warp is used. Mercerised yarn is introduced to give variety. The cloths known as " Ventilette " and " Aertex " are purely cellular fabrics, used for shirtings, underwear, etc. The illustration shows a cellular shirting cloth with a fancy stripe between each bar of cellular weave
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