spun-dyed+yarn

These are worsted yarns spun from wool that has been dyed in the sliver.

Irish made wool knitting yarn. It is soft, fine and loosely spun, has good elasticity, and is spun by the peasants of Valencia Island. It is dyed black and navy and is also produced in white, grey, and heather mixtures. A lighter variety and harder spun is known as Blarneys.

A fancy yarn used in the wool trade. It is spun from fibres which have been dyed in various colours before spinning and these are mixed together to produce a desired tone. It may be woollen or worsted spun. Typical yarns are heather, lovats and tinted greys.

Silk yarns are composed of a number of silk filaments twisted together, usually 8 to 12 to form a thread. The filaments have a natural coating of gum which gives strength and elasticity, but reduces lustre. The gum must be boiled off if lustre is wanted, which may be done either in the yarn state or when woven in cloth. Silk yarns are divided into two classes, " thrown silk" and " spun silk," the first being yarns that are made by the processes of reeling and throwing, and the second consisting of yarns spun from waste silk. Thrown Silk, or Net Silk comprises organzine and tram yarns, organzine being made from the most perfect cocoons and used for warps. Tram is made from the inferior cocoons and used as weft. All silk contains a proportion of natural gum, and the amount of gum removed give rise to the following terms: - Boiled-off Silk - Yarn which has had all the gum removed, and has the highest sheen (see Boiled-off). Hard Silk - Yarn that has not undergone any boiling-off process. Ecru Silk - Yarn boiled to remove about 3 per cent to 5 per cent of the gum by light washing in lukewarm water. Souple Silk - Yarn boiled to remove about one-sixth of the gum. Bengal Silk - See Bengal Silk. Berlin Silk - A silk yarn made for fancy hand work. It is produced by doubling from 4 to 8 twisted singles grege by a right-hand twist; then again doubling three of these with a left-hand twist. The thread is very round, smooth, and hard, also known as cordon-net. Blond Silk - A special silk yarn made by doubling three grege threads left-hand twist, then doubling three of these together with right-hand twist. Brights - Silk which has been entirely de-gummed in the skein and then dyed. Bourette, Bourrette Yarn - A low grade of silk yarn made from the waste produced by schappe spinning. Canton Silk - See Canton Silk. Chiffon Twist - Single raw silk threads, 50 or more turns per inch. Used for chiffons, crepe-de-chines, etc. Crepe-de-Chine - Hard twist tram silk, about 40 to 70 turns per inch. Made from 3 to 5 raw silk ends. Usually woven as weft. Crepe Georgette - Hard twist raw silk usually made from two threads 13/15 deniers, 50 or more turns, both right and left twist, used for crepe georgettes as warp and weft. Crepe Twist - This is tram silk hard twisted, having from 30 to 100 turns per inch. Used for making fabrics of a crepe character both all silk and mixtures. Cordonnet Silk - See Berlin Silk; also under Cordonnet. Eri Silk - A raw silk obtained from the wild silkworm " Attacus ricini." Flock Silk - A general term used to indicate silk yarns made from the outer uneven parts of the cocoon. Floss Silk - Used principally for embroidery purposes. It is a thrown silk and made by doubling two thick raw singles with right-hand twist together with a left-hand twist. Galette Silk - A coarse silk yarn made from waste. Grenadine Silk - Organzine silk with a large number of turns per inch. Jaspe Silk - Silk warps printed in the hank. Ombre Silk - Skein dyed yarn in a gradation of shades, which run in sequence of depth of colour, varying from five up to forty shades. Schappe Silk - A spun silk yarn which is made from silk degummed by the maceration process used on the Continent (see Schappe Silk). Soie Ondee - See Soie Ondee. Silk Yarns - In addition to the foregoing yarns see under the following terms for further silk yarns: - Cable, Cevennes, Chappe, Chine, Clochepeid, Crocheting, Crue (see Ecru), Cuite Cusier, Cusirino, Degummed, Docken, Doup-pion. Ecru, Embroidery, Etschingo, Filature, Filature a 1'Europeune, Filet, Florette, Fringe, Goffered, Grege, Gum Hainin, Hard, Kahing, Knitting, Lousy, Marabout, Maybasch, Melange, Mele, Mi-cuit, Minchcw, Nett, Noil, Organzine, Ouvrees, Oval, Pearlina, Pel, Pelo, Poie, Pure dye Silk, Raw (see Grege), Re-reels, Retorse, Senegal, Sewing, Simonita, Soft Singles, Soie Ondee, Souple, Spun, Steeped, Strafilato, Stumba, Thrown, Tors San File, Tram, Tramette, Tsatlees, Tussah, Twist, Washed, Zaguri.

A two-fold cotton warp dress fabric, with mohair weft of rather coarse counts. The warp is yarn-dyed and the cloth cross-dyed. During the finishing process the weft is thrown to the surface, entirely covering the warp by reason of the warp being pulled straight and the weft bending. All cotton cloths are sometimes sold as lustres. They are woven from bleached warp about 2/40's and soft spun dyed weft about 12's. As many picks as possible are put in.

A two-fold cotton warp dress fabric, with mohair weft of rather coarse counts. The warp is yarn-dyed and the cloth cross-dyed. During the finishing process the weft is thrown to the surface, entirely covering the warp by reason of the warp being pulled straight and the weft bending. All cotton cloths are sometimes sold as lustres. They are woven from bleached warp about 2/40's and soft spun dyed weft about 12's. As many picks as possible are put in.

An all-cotton plain weave fabric made 41-in. wide from hard-spun warp yarn and a fancy weft of the slub character. The slubs occur every few inches. About 42's warp, 56 ends and 60 picks per inch. Both piece-dyed and printed.

The operation of transferring yarn from one form of package to another, such as winding from hanks to bobbins, from bobbins to cones, from cops to bobbins, etc. The process that follows spinning determines whether winding is necessary or not. Cops and ring tubes or bobbins can be used in that form as weft in the shuttle, but they are not suitable for making into warps, nor as supply to knitting or braiding machines. Yarn in the other forms of spun packages requires to be pirned for use as weft. Although yarn winding is not a fundamental process like spinning and weaving, it occupies a very important place in the economics of yarn processing, and probably embraces a wider range of different machines than any other phase of textile processing. Even a bare catalogue of the different kinds of winding machines would far too lengthy for inclusion here. Broadly, winding machines are adapted for: - 1. Winding yarn for use as weft in loom shuttles, including winding on to wood pirns and paper tubes; solid cops for use in shuttles without tongues; quills for use in ribbon and smallware looms; layer locking at the nose of the pirn to prevent sloughing of rayon weft; bunch building at the base of pirns for use in automatic looms; weft rewound from spinner's cops into larger packages to give maximum length at one filling of the shuttle. The yarn supply can be from hanks, cops, spinner's bobbins, cones, cheeses, warps, etc. 2. Winding yarns for making warps from spinner's cops or bobbins, hanks that have been sized, bleached or dyed, cones, cheeses, and other forms of supply. 3. Winding yarns into suitable form for sizing, bleaching, dyeing, or for receiving other wet treatments, including hanks, warps, cheeses, cops, etc. 4. Winding yarns for knitting, i.e., on to splicer bobbins, cones, pineapple cones, bottle bobbins, etc., and on to bobbins for use in braiding machines. 5. Special process winding such as the precision winding of several threads side by side in tape form for covering wire, etc. 6. Winding yarns into packages for retail selling such as winding mending wools on cards; sewing thread on wood spools or small flangeless cheeses; crochet embroidery and other threads into balls; packing string info balls and cheeses; harvesting twine into large balls and cones, etc.

A fabric defined for the purpose of the trade mark of the Harris Tweed Association as " tweed, hand-spun, hand-woven and dyed and finished by hand in the islands of Lewis, Harris, Uist, Barra, and their several purtenances, and all known as the Outer Hebrides." It is a loosely woven cloth from hill and mountain pure virgin wools. During finishing the cloths are dried in loft", heated with peat fires, which gives the peculiar odour noticed in the cloth. About 18 to 22 end and picks per inch and 120 yards per ounce warp and weft (see Harris Yarn). Also called Hebridean Cloth. The Board of Trade further provide that "Wherever the Harris Tweed trade mark is used there shall be added in legible characters the words ' Woven in Harris ' or ' Woven in Lewis ' or ' Woven in Uist ' or ' Woven in Barra,' as the case may be, and for the purpose of distinction there shall also be added the word "hand-spun" in the case of tweeds made entirely from hand-spun yam".

A cotton striped fabric used for dress and overall wear. The warp is ordinary yarn dyed cotton and a strong, very hard spun cotton weft, also yam dyed. After finishing, the weft curls in such a manner as to give an all-over crinkled face.

A fancy dress cloth made from spiral yarn warp and mixture weft (cotton and wool). The design is a small spot on 10 shafts; piece-dyed black or blue. This cloth is set 68-in., 18 ends and 18 picks per inch, warp one thread of 5's twisted to one thread of 20's The single threads are both hard twisted and have only six turns per inch in the doubling. The weft is coarse single yarn spun from about 80 per cent wool and 20 per cent cotton to 6 yards per dram. The cloth is shrunk to 54-in.

The soft downy hair from the haunches and under part of the camel. Length of fibre is 4 in up to 10 in. The yarn is a soft worsted type and much used for carpets, hosiery, hatting, dressing gowns rugs etc. Spun into about 30's counts and then into two fold or three fold yarns. This hair is strong and soft and of a brown colour, and it is difficult to bleach. Each animal yields about 10-lb annually. The longer and coarser hair is used for belting. Obtained chiefly from China and Russia. On arrival in Bradford the hair is scoured carded and combed, and the tops and noils produced are a regular market article. There is a steady consumption of the long hair in the carpet industry and of the noils in the hosiery and hatting trades. A certain quantity of coarse hair is used in the belting industry, and a smaller amount is used in making waterproof hoods for motor cars. Dyed blends of strong hair and wool are sometimes called camel hair and are sold for making filter cloths and other mechanical services. The best " camel's hair brushes used by artists are said to be made from squirrel tails hair of the camel is almost never used for brushes.

A fine, thin, plain-weave cloth, woven from camlet yarns, 30-in., 60 yards, usually dyed bright red. Camlet yarn is spun from lustrous wool, Lincoln or Leicester. The Dutch introduced the cloth, but they used camel hair or goat hair. Other qualities are made from hard twisted worsted yarns about 36 X 40 per inch, 2/30's 2/34's. In the 17th century a camlet of wool and silk was used for making gowns. It is mentioned in Pepys Diary, in 1664: " I put on my camelott suit, the best I ever wore in my life." In the latter part of the 17th century camelots of various colours were highly esteemed. First made in Montgomeryshire on the banks of the river Camlet. The true camlet is made in India of camel hair (see Patu Khudrang)

A fine, thin, plain-weave cloth, woven from camlet yarns, 30-in., 60 yards, usually dyed bright red. Camlet yarn is spun from lustrous wool, Lincoln or Leicester. The Dutch introduced the cloth, but they used camel hair or goat hair. Other qualities are made from hard twisted worsted yarns about 36 X 40 per inch, 2/30's 2/34's. In the 17th century a camlet of wool and silk was used for making gowns. It is mentioned in Pepys Diary, in 1664: " I put on my camelott suit, the best I ever wore in my life." In the latter part of the 17th century camelots of various colours were highly esteemed. First made in Montgomeryshire on the banks of the river Camlet. The true camlet is made in India of camel hair (see Patu Khudrang)

A plain weave fabric made in China from ramie yarns. It is woven on hand looms in coarse reeds and with few picks. The natural lustre of the yams is not interfered with, as the fabric is used in the loom state. A small quantity is dyed blue, or bleached and used for dresses, but the bulk of the cloth is used for table covers in the loom state. Widths are 15-in. or 16-in. and lengths 30 yards, made on native looms. A fabric made of yarn spun from nettle fibre was also known as grass cloth.