raw+silk

The French term for raw silk yarns run together without twist. It is reeled from cocoons and used either as it is or when converted into tram or organzine by throwing. ———————— A term applied to the filaments produced by silkworms in the form of cocoons. The term also applies to the threads produced by reeling the filaments from a number of cocoons together. Each filament (bave) consists of two fibres (brins) joined together by gum and the length varies from about 500 to over 1,200 yards. Various counts ranging from 8/10 denier to 20/22 denier are reeled, 13/15 denier is the most usual and this is produced by reeling from five cocoons. It has no twist. There are nine different qualities of Bombyx Mori silk in commerce, whether from Japan, China, Italy or India. They are: - Bons Cocoons, Cocoons Pointus, Cocoons Foibles, Cocoons Doubles, Cocoons Satines Goufflons. Cocoons Ouverts. Cocoons Chiques, Cocoons Taches, Dragles.

قَزّ \ silk, raw silk. \ See Also القَزّ

Silk yarns are composed of a number of silk filaments twisted together, usually 8 to 12 to form a thread. The filaments have a natural coating of gum which gives strength and elasticity, but reduces lustre. The gum must be boiled off if lustre is wanted, which may be done either in the yarn state or when woven in cloth. Silk yarns are divided into two classes, " thrown silk" and " spun silk," the first being yarns that are made by the processes of reeling and throwing, and the second consisting of yarns spun from waste silk. Thrown Silk, or Net Silk comprises organzine and tram yarns, organzine being made from the most perfect cocoons and used for warps. Tram is made from the inferior cocoons and used as weft. All silk contains a proportion of natural gum, and the amount of gum removed give rise to the following terms: - Boiled-off Silk - Yarn which has had all the gum removed, and has the highest sheen (see Boiled-off). Hard Silk - Yarn that has not undergone any boiling-off process. Ecru Silk - Yarn boiled to remove about 3 per cent to 5 per cent of the gum by light washing in lukewarm water. Souple Silk - Yarn boiled to remove about one-sixth of the gum. Bengal Silk - See Bengal Silk. Berlin Silk - A silk yarn made for fancy hand work. It is produced by doubling from 4 to 8 twisted singles grege by a right-hand twist; then again doubling three of these with a left-hand twist. The thread is very round, smooth, and hard, also known as cordon-net. Blond Silk - A special silk yarn made by doubling three grege threads left-hand twist, then doubling three of these together with right-hand twist. Brights - Silk which has been entirely de-gummed in the skein and then dyed. Bourette, Bourrette Yarn - A low grade of silk yarn made from the waste produced by schappe spinning. Canton Silk - See Canton Silk. Chiffon Twist - Single raw silk threads, 50 or more turns per inch. Used for chiffons, crepe-de-chines, etc. Crepe-de-Chine - Hard twist tram silk, about 40 to 70 turns per inch. Made from 3 to 5 raw silk ends. Usually woven as weft. Crepe Georgette - Hard twist raw silk usually made from two threads 13/15 deniers, 50 or more turns, both right and left twist, used for crepe georgettes as warp and weft. Crepe Twist - This is tram silk hard twisted, having from 30 to 100 turns per inch. Used for making fabrics of a crepe character both all silk and mixtures. Cordonnet Silk - See Berlin Silk; also under Cordonnet. Eri Silk - A raw silk obtained from the wild silkworm " Attacus ricini." Flock Silk - A general term used to indicate silk yarns made from the outer uneven parts of the cocoon. Floss Silk - Used principally for embroidery purposes. It is a thrown silk and made by doubling two thick raw singles with right-hand twist together with a left-hand twist. Galette Silk - A coarse silk yarn made from waste. Grenadine Silk - Organzine silk with a large number of turns per inch. Jaspe Silk - Silk warps printed in the hank. Ombre Silk - Skein dyed yarn in a gradation of shades, which run in sequence of depth of colour, varying from five up to forty shades. Schappe Silk - A spun silk yarn which is made from silk degummed by the maceration process used on the Continent (see Schappe Silk). Soie Ondee - See Soie Ondee. Silk Yarns - In addition to the foregoing yarns see under the following terms for further silk yarns: - Cable, Cevennes, Chappe, Chine, Clochepeid, Crocheting, Crue (see Ecru), Cuite Cusier, Cusirino, Degummed, Docken, Doup-pion. Ecru, Embroidery, Etschingo, Filature, Filature a 1'Europeune, Filet, Florette, Fringe, Goffered, Grege, Gum Hainin, Hard, Kahing, Knitting, Lousy, Marabout, Maybasch, Melange, Mele, Mi-cuit, Minchcw, Nett, Noil, Organzine, Ouvrees, Oval, Pearlina, Pel, Pelo, Poie, Pure dye Silk, Raw (see Grege), Re-reels, Retorse, Senegal, Sewing, Simonita, Soft Singles, Soie Ondee, Souple, Spun, Steeped, Strafilato, Stumba, Thrown, Tors San File, Tram, Tramette, Tsatlees, Tussah, Twist, Washed, Zaguri.

This includes the various processes of winding, twisting, doubling and re-twisting raw silk. For weaving purposes several raw silk threads are united to form a new thread by doubling or twisting (throwing) together, each of the singles having been previously twisted in order to increase the strength and give roundness.

Silk is the most beautiful and the strongest of the natural fibres. It is produced by the silkworms of the moth family Bombycidae, the most prolific of which is the Bombyx mori. The cultivation of the silkworm and the manufacture of silk originated in China about 2500 b.c., but Japan is now the world's chief exporter, producing more than twice as much as China, while Italy produces about half as much as China. The female Bombyx mori lays about 700 eggs of which about 35,000 are required to make one ounce. This will produce about 20,000 silkworms yielding 130-lb. to 140-lb. of cocoons from which about 12-lb. of raw silk can be reeled. This number of silkworms consumes about one ton of mulberry leaves. The average length of thread in a cocoon is 1500 yards, of which only 400 yards to 1000 yards can be reeled. The filaments exuded by the silkworm are double and 8 to 12 filaments are reeled together to make one thread (see Silk Fabrics)

خَام \ crude: in its natural state: crude oil. raw: in its natural state; not specially prepared or treated for use: raw leather; raw silk.

There are several kinds of waste silk as follows: - Watt silk. Floss or Frissons, Rigotti, Wadding, Neri, Galettame, Basinetto, Cocons, Perves, Piques, Tarmate, Rugginose, Strussa, Fresonnets (see each term). Also other varieties are given under the terms: - China, Curlies, China wastes, Indian waste, Kunba, Nankin Buttons, Pun-jum waste, Sychuen waste, Shanghai waste, and Steam waste.

The French term for raw silk yarns run together without twist. It is reeled from cocoons and used either as it is or when converted into tram or organzine by throwing.

The product of the boiling-off (also called, degumming) process, in which raw silk, thrown silk, or fabricated silk is subjected to a treatment in hot water, soap and other solutions to dissolve and remove the gum or sericin, which is the coat protecting the clean fibre filaments of a thread from becoming separated, and to remove tints, dirt and other foreign substances which are not inherent in the nature of the silk. (Official definition, U.S.A.) ———————— Undyed thrown silk which has had the natural gum removed by boiling in soap solution. This process of boiling-off removes about 25 per cent of the weight. It is a necessary operation (same as degumming). Before boiling-off the thread is harsh, stiff and dull, but afterwards it is soft, flexible and lustrous.

A 4-shaft twill in all silk, of light make; raw silk, or grege yarns, are used for warp and schappe silk weft. Also known as Levantine, and is imitated under this term in cotton.

Raw silk from Broussa, Asia Minor. Also a medium quality of silk yam made from this silk and used as " singles " for warp.

A new silk developed in Nanking, made in imitation of light woollens, the object being to get the Chinese public to use it for dress suits in substitution for imported woollens. The fabric stands washing, can be re-dyed, and has no rustle. Made in plain, figured or woollen designs. The silk is produced from superior raw silk and is prepared m the local thread-making factories. The warp is a ply yarn and the cost is much higher than ordinary silks. The fabric is sold under the brand " Yl Shing Kung."

Raw silk from Syria suitable for tram; also made into silk braid.

A raw silk yam made in China. Similar to China silk but inferior quality. Used for weft in crepe-de-Chine fabrics when hard twisted.

Hard-twisted silk yarn, made by twisting two or three raw silk threads together. Readily recognised by the wavy appearance caused by the high twist.

A term given to completely degummed silk. It is more lustrous than raw silk.

This is a large export trade. The yarn is obtained from silk waste, under which inferior cocoons and waste from reeling raw silk are included. It is spun in 65's, 71's singles, and 135's and 120's two-fold for export. Other counts are used locally for Fugi and other fabrics. It is graded in two varieties, Honneri and Hanneri.

A class of China raw silk, used for silk sewing thread. It is of two varieties, white and green Kalings.

A tram silk yarn made by twisting to the right from 12 to 16 raw silk threads. Used as an embroidery yarn or for cords.

The term given to silk yarn which forms the basis for tinsel yarns. It has 8 to 10 threads of raw silk loosely twisted together.