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61 Caddon
CADDOWS, or CADDONA hand-woven fabric in which loops are formed in some arranged design, of which Fig. 1 is an example. The warp is controlled by two shafts; two picks of a fine ground weft are woven in, and then one very thick pick is inserted for figuring. Before closing the shed this thick weft is pulled into small loops as in Fig. 2, where required. Almost any design could be woven. The weaver begins with the first line on design and lifts loops where indicated, inserts two picks of ground, then a thick pick, raising the loops as required, and so on. These fabrics use up a great deal of time and arc expensive to make. Used for bedspreads, etc
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62 Centre Stitching Warp
A special fine warp used in double cloth structures for binding or stitching the two cloths together. This warp weaves under the back cloth picks and over the face cloth picks. It is so placed that there are ordinary warp threads at each side, which prevent the fine ends being seen.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Centre Stitching Warp
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63 Corduroy
A term that is commonly known as 2 & 2 rib, or two ribs alternating on face and back of children's stockings. ———————— A strong cotton cloth used for suitings. It is cut pile fabric, and has hard-wearing qualities. The weave has a cord or rib surface with either round or flat tops, with pile formed by the weft. When woven with a twill back it is known as a " Genoa back," and when a plain back is used it is termed " tabby back " corduroy. Fabrics of this class are woven in the same way as velvets, except that the pile picks are bound by the warp so as to form straight lines of floats; thus producing a ribbed surface. After weaving, the material undergoes (before cutting) the same stiffening and liming process as velvets. Corduroys are made in many varieties, known as fine reed, eight shafts, thicksets, constitutions, cables, etc. (see Constitutionals). The illustration shows a corduroy design, wherein crosses show ground weaves and filled squares the pile picks. An illustration is given of the cloth with the pile cut. The ribs may vary from 12 to 1 per inch
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64 Cranky Checks
This is one of the oldest cloths made for West Africa, and still finds a sale. It is a blue and white check, with designs about 2-in. square, coarse yarns all through. The style of checking is draughtboard type with the squares filled with blue and white lines on the hairline principle. The fabric is usually 36-in. finished, 20 yards, and headed at each end with a three green, one red, heading. The finish is the usual stiff finish, and a good quality is 37-in. soft, 20 yards, 89/3 of 16's grey and 16's indigo twist, with 24 picks per inch of 16's indigo and 18's cop weft. Made in Radcliffe-and Rochdale. When woven with double ends and picks it is termed a Zanzibar shirting. -
65 Crepe Georgette
A fine all-silk plain weave fabric, made from 46-in. to 52-in. in width to shrink 20 per cent in width and 10 per cent in length. Georgettes range from 80 ends and 80 picks to 100 ends and 100 picks per inch of 13/15 denier silk. Both warp and weft are one right, and one reverse twist. This cloth is the same as crepe-de-Chine, except that all crepe yarn is used both ways (see silk yams) -
66 Seersucker
CRINKLE, or SEERSUCKEROriginally a silk fabric with flat and puckered stripes alternating across the fabric. Now applied to cotton dress fabrics of the better quality crimp styles, woven 32-in. wide in many weights. Two beams are required, one for the crimp stripes and one for the ordinary. One cloth has 72 ends and 72 picks per inch, 2/60's and 30's warps, 32's weft, super Egyptian yarns (see Seersucker) ————————SEERSUCKER (See Crinkle)This term is common in the U.S.A., and given to a plain and crimped stripe fabric either bleached or dyed, and used for drapery and furnishings as well as dress purposes. A common quality is made 40-in. wide 64 ends and 64 picks per inch, 26's warp, 20's weft. Woven from two beams in stripes of plain weave and crimp which is also plain weave. The plain ground ends are firmly weighted and the crimping ends are lightly weighted. Fancy designs are obtained by using colour or rayon in the warps. Another class of seersucker is made from a plain cotton cloth that is printed in stripes with a preparation that will resist the action of caustic soda. The cloth is passed through a concentrated solution of caustic soda and the imprinted part shrinks. The effect is that of crimped stripes.
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67 Domestics
The home trade uses this term to denote grey cloths for domestic purposes, which are either plain or twill weave, generally pure sized. Widths are 30-in. to 36-in., and qualities are many. Shipping domestics are much inferior in quality to the home trade cloths, and are as a rule heavily sized. Widths are 30-in. to 36-in., 54 to 64 reed, 70 to 72 picks, 24's warp and 36's weft, or somewhere near these yarns. Heavy domestics are made from coarse yarns, such as 10's to 14's warp and weft, and about 48 ends and 52 picks. -
68 Double Leviathan Stitch
An embroidery stitch, consisting of a large cross stitch with long cross stitches filling the holes on each side and also an upright cross stitch over the whole. Another style of double plain used for dress materials has 60 ends and 56 picks per inch, namely, 30 ends and 28 picks per inch in each cloth, but one warp is 62's hard spun Egyptian and the other 2/20's mercerised. The weft for both is 64's. In this make the designs are often simple squares and the like such as can be woven on a dobby loom.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Double Leviathan Stitch
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69 Doublerie
This is a French term given to a dress canvas printed in effects suitable for summer wear. One cloth was made 72 ends and 80 picks per inch 32's T., 34's W., double ends and double picks. The print designs are small floral effects on a white ground. -
70 Duck
A heavy cotton cloth used for purposes where great strength is required, such as for sails, boot linings, tent cloths, etc. The original duck was a linen cloth, made from double warp and weft of coarse counts, but nearly all ducks are now made from cotton yarns. Usually woven with double ends and double picks. A light duck is made. This is bleached and used for men's suitings in tropical countries. Ducks are usually named by the weight in ounces per yard - thus a 10-oz. duck cloth weighs 10-oz. per yard. For sailcloths the weave is plain and single-ends, viz., 24-in., 50 ends and 50 picks per inch, 3/30's T., 2/20's W. American makers number the sailcloth duck as follows: - Standard 22-in. No. 1 weighs 18-oz. per running yard. No. 2 weighs 17-oz. per running yard. No. 3 weighs 16-oz. per running yard. For cloths heavier than 18-oz. a cipher is added for each ounce increase, thus: 19-oz. = No. 1/0; 20-oz. = no. 2/0; 25-oz. = no. 7/0, and so on up to 36-02. per running yard of 22-in. cloth is No. 18/0. Any variation in width will weigh in direct proportion.
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71 Gaze
The French term for gauze, and there are many fabrics made in France to which this name is given. The most common are as follows: - Gaze a Bluter - Made in cotton or silk and used for sifting purposes. It is a plain gauze. Gaze Brilliantine - A high-class dress leno cloth made from all silk yams. Gaze an Fuseau - See Grille. Gaze Barege - Very light dress goods, silk warp, wool weft, or of all wool, often printed. Gaze Ceres - A fabric for making women's hats, silk warp and split straw weft. Leno weave. Seldom used today. Gaze Cristal - Very light French dress goods, silk warp, having small bright and dull spots alternating on the face. Gaze Damassee - A gauze fabric of silk warp and weft in which the design is produced with two wefts, either different colours or different material. Gaze Faconnee - A French gauze with brocade design woven one ground thread and one figuring thread alternately. Gaze Paconnee Broche - French gauze fabric, plain gauze, on which is hand embroidered various designs. Gaze Faconnee Raye - French gauze with warp stripes. Gaze de Fil - A French-made gauze, flax yarns, with a light starch finish, usually striped. Gaze d'ltalie - A French gauze, made of silk yams. Gaze de Paris - A French light-weight, silk dress fabric, made of organzine warp and trame weft. Gaze de Voilette - A French production made from all-silk yams in fine reeds and closely picked. A pure, very fine and transparent gauze. Gaze Filoche - A French all-silk leno fabric. Gaze Fond Filoche - An all-silk French gauze, organzine warp, grege weft, with bars across the weft formed by groups of picks. Gaze Lisse - A leno cloth, very light weight, made in France from undyed silk yams. Gaze Marabout - A very light, silk French gauze. Also a pile fabric made with very short plush stripes, alternating in three colours, over a thin gauze ground. Gaze Milanaise - A French light-weight dress fabric with equal number of ends and picks per inch. Made of " Milanaise " yarn. Gaze Ondee - A French very light dress cloth or trimming fabric made of organzine warp and weft on " ondee " silk. Gaze Perron - A French leno fabric, all silk, used for bordering on dresses. Gaze Platree - A striped French gauze, made of yellow silk and given a light starch finish. Gaze Tour Anglais - The French term for leno. -
72 Honeycomb
This is the name of a weave (see Honeycomb Weave). The term is also used to describe towels woven with a honeycomb weave, and for dress goods. Fig. T shows a 12 X 10 honeycomb used for linen towels, woven with a 1,000 reed, 101/2 shots (37-in. glass), 22's linen warp and weft. A typical worsted dress cloth is woven 72 end and 48 picks per inch, 2/36's worsted warp and weft. Honeycomb Quilts are usually made about 28 end and 34 picks per inch, 2/12's warp and 2's to 6's weft, all cotton (see also Brighton and Grecian).
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73 Jeans
Cotton cloth generally dyed or bleached and used for linings. The weave is the 3-shaft twill, weft face, made in widths 27-in. to 44-in. A good shipping cloth for Egypt, Persia and other markets is 42-in., 52 ends and 88 picks per inch, 36's T., 28's W. If made warp face it is known as a drill and used for children's suitings, corsets, boot linings, etc. A good example of this is 31-in., 100 yards, 81 ends and 62 picks per inch, 18's T., 28's twist-way weft, 281/2-lb. Jeans, Jeanettes, Reversed Jeanettes and Cashmeres (cotton) are all made with the 2 & 1 twill weave, and are very similar. Jeans are the heaviest cloths, Jeanettes and Cashmeres are the same cloth, and when twist-way weft is used the cloth is a Reversed Jeanette. Standard makes of each term are: -
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74 Lastings
A very stout twill cloth woven with hard-twisted yarns, generally cotton all through, although wool is sometimes used. It is used chiefly for boot and bag linings when of the twill weave. This style of cloth when figured is used for church furniture. When dyed and of plain weave it is shipped to parts of South America as " Las tings " usually with a stiff glaze finish, and used as trouserings by the natives. Made in various widths and qualities. A popular quality is 24-in., 64 ends and 60 picks per inch, 20's warp, 24's weft. A mixture cloth is made in the five-end satin weave, with 104 ends and 68 picks per inch, 2/50's worsted warp and 16's or 24's cotton weft. The term originally meant a woollen fabric made of combed wool, having two- or three-fold warp and single weft, made 18-in. wide and dyed black. -
75 Madras Handkerchiefs
MADRAS HANDKERCHIEFS (Imitation, Lancashire make)Plain weave cotton fabric woven in coloured stripes 36-in. 8 yards, 80 ends and 128 picks per inch, 60's T., 40's W. When indigo or green is used the count is 50's. Other colours most in favour are grey, turkey red, chocolate and yellow. The colours are not fast. The feature of the cloth is that some of the warp yarn bleeds during finishing and tints the grey weft which gives a solid colour effect. ———————— There is a certain class of dyed cotton goods hand-woven on native looms in Madras known as " Madras Handkerchiefs." Their principal use is as dress for the native women of several of our Colonies and elsewhere. The real Madras handkerchief has a peculiar smell which never entirely disappears. Lancashire can and does produce a handkerchief at a much lower price than the hand-made article, but Lancashire cannot reproduce the smell. Owing to the absence of this smell Lancashire cannot compete, and today the native will pay twice as much for the real handkerchief, recognised by its smell, as for the Lancashire article. The hand-loom weavers in the Madras Presidency produce a large quantity of these fabrics and the style was invented there. The European variety is an imitation. The native-made fabric is 36-in. wide and 8 yards long, woven ends and 128 picks per inch, warp usually 60's grey, turkey red, yellow, chocolate, and 50's indigo and green. The weft is 40's both grey and coloured, weight about 26-oz. The yarns are generally imported grey and dyed locally with the one exception of turkey red. The colours are loose in the warp so that the grey weft is tinted. These hand-made fabrics are still better in handle and style than the imitations and are preferred in the Indian markets.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Madras Handkerchiefs
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76 Pahones
Same as Slendangs. ————————SLENDONGS, or PAHONESCotton scarves or shawls made 25-in. to 30-in. wide, 68-in. to 75 -in. long, with fancy headings and fringes at each end. Very similar to sarongs, but narrower. Most of this style of shawl have crammed coloured headings at each end. Common qualities are made with 72 ends and 52 picks per inch, 36's warp, 40's weft, in 25-in. widths. The headings are 3-in. wide, with 120 picks of various colours per inch. -
77 Panama Zephyrs
Dobby cloths on 12 to 16 shafts in coloured stripes and small figured effects. Some are bleached and some are dyed in light colours, such as cream, yellow, light blue, etc. Shipped to South America, Egypt, Persia, etc., 261/2-in., 100 yards, 72 ends and 72 picks per inch, warp 36's white, 30's colour, 32's weft all cotton. Another cloth is made 76 ends and 52 picks per inch, 32's warp, 16's weft, with 2/60's colour wrap. This cloth is usually shipped in large ranges of colours and designs.
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78 Patent Axminster Carpets
A superior class of carpet made on the chenille principle. They are made to any width and length, with borders and cross borders, and woven in one piece. Four or five warps are used of hemp, cotton, and other fibres. The chenille weft is made with all the pile tufts projecting in one direction; about 7 picks per inch are inserted, with two ground picks of ordinary yarn between each two. The chenille is put in by hand, and then combed forward to get all the pile straight. This chenille has its tufts made from wool or silk noil on a super quality cotton base. The woven carpets are sheared to level the pile (see carpets)Dictionary of the English textile terms > Patent Axminster Carpets
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79 Pattu
PATTOO, or PATTUNative-made fabrics in Kashmir. What is known as " old type " is made from woven Lohi cloth and felted from 27-in. to 18-in. and from 8 yards to 7 yards in length. The " new style " is made 27-in., 40 ends and 58 picks per inch, 2/30's Yorkshire skein woollen warp and 18's Y.s. weft, in 2 & 2 twill weave, two picks in a shed. The yarns are hand spun from wool of the native sheep. ————————PATTU, PATUA fabric made in Northern India of the patti hair of the Kabul goat. It is coarse and used locally in all parts. Many grades are made in Kangra, Simla and Kashmir. Pattu consists of several widths sewn together to make pieces 21/2 yards to 3 yards wide and about 12 yards long. It is folded into several thicknesses and worn as a wrap in the cool hilly districts. The most esteemed varieties are as follows: - Pattu Dharidar, with warp stripes. Pattu Chet. This is woven plain and printed with chintz designs and colours - small effects only. Made in Kashmir and used to make the long coat worn by the natives. Pattu Charkhana, a checked pattu. Pattu Khudrang, natural coloured. Pattu Kalamkhar, corkscrew-like stripes. Pattu Abshar, straight line stripes. Pattu Podak, a pattu made at Ladakh. Pattu Khar, coarse bagging. Pattu Pashmini, a thick shawl used as a blanket, made 54-in. wide. -
80 Road Cloth
A number of roads in the United States have been laid with cotton cloth as a foundation for the asphalt. The preferred fabric is an osnaburg 75-in. to 90-in. wide, with 18 ends and 18 picks per inch. The sub-grade of the road is treated with a prime cast of tar-oil. After this is dry the cloth is placed directly upon it by unrolling. Each roll overlaps the previous one about 4-in. After that the distributor deposits a layer of hot black asphalt over the cloth. A road cloth used at Burnley, Lancashire, has 51/2 ends and 51/2 picks per inch, 4's warp, 4's weft, well sized.
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