gum+process

Silk yarns are composed of a number of silk filaments twisted together, usually 8 to 12 to form a thread. The filaments have a natural coating of gum which gives strength and elasticity, but reduces lustre. The gum must be boiled off if lustre is wanted, which may be done either in the yarn state or when woven in cloth. Silk yarns are divided into two classes, " thrown silk" and " spun silk," the first being yarns that are made by the processes of reeling and throwing, and the second consisting of yarns spun from waste silk. Thrown Silk, or Net Silk comprises organzine and tram yarns, organzine being made from the most perfect cocoons and used for warps. Tram is made from the inferior cocoons and used as weft. All silk contains a proportion of natural gum, and the amount of gum removed give rise to the following terms: - Boiled-off Silk - Yarn which has had all the gum removed, and has the highest sheen (see Boiled-off). Hard Silk - Yarn that has not undergone any boiling-off process. Ecru Silk - Yarn boiled to remove about 3 per cent to 5 per cent of the gum by light washing in lukewarm water. Souple Silk - Yarn boiled to remove about one-sixth of the gum. Bengal Silk - See Bengal Silk. Berlin Silk - A silk yarn made for fancy hand work. It is produced by doubling from 4 to 8 twisted singles grege by a right-hand twist; then again doubling three of these with a left-hand twist. The thread is very round, smooth, and hard, also known as cordon-net. Blond Silk - A special silk yarn made by doubling three grege threads left-hand twist, then doubling three of these together with right-hand twist. Brights - Silk which has been entirely de-gummed in the skein and then dyed. Bourette, Bourrette Yarn - A low grade of silk yarn made from the waste produced by schappe spinning. Canton Silk - See Canton Silk. Chiffon Twist - Single raw silk threads, 50 or more turns per inch. Used for chiffons, crepe-de-chines, etc. Crepe-de-Chine - Hard twist tram silk, about 40 to 70 turns per inch. Made from 3 to 5 raw silk ends. Usually woven as weft. Crepe Georgette - Hard twist raw silk usually made from two threads 13/15 deniers, 50 or more turns, both right and left twist, used for crepe georgettes as warp and weft. Crepe Twist - This is tram silk hard twisted, having from 30 to 100 turns per inch. Used for making fabrics of a crepe character both all silk and mixtures. Cordonnet Silk - See Berlin Silk; also under Cordonnet. Eri Silk - A raw silk obtained from the wild silkworm " Attacus ricini." Flock Silk - A general term used to indicate silk yarns made from the outer uneven parts of the cocoon. Floss Silk - Used principally for embroidery purposes. It is a thrown silk and made by doubling two thick raw singles with right-hand twist together with a left-hand twist. Galette Silk - A coarse silk yarn made from waste. Grenadine Silk - Organzine silk with a large number of turns per inch. Jaspe Silk - Silk warps printed in the hank. Ombre Silk - Skein dyed yarn in a gradation of shades, which run in sequence of depth of colour, varying from five up to forty shades. Schappe Silk - A spun silk yarn which is made from silk degummed by the maceration process used on the Continent (see Schappe Silk). Soie Ondee - See Soie Ondee. Silk Yarns - In addition to the foregoing yarns see under the following terms for further silk yarns: - Cable, Cevennes, Chappe, Chine, Clochepeid, Crocheting, Crue (see Ecru), Cuite Cusier, Cusirino, Degummed, Docken, Doup-pion. Ecru, Embroidery, Etschingo, Filature, Filature a 1'Europeune, Filet, Florette, Fringe, Goffered, Grege, Gum Hainin, Hard, Kahing, Knitting, Lousy, Marabout, Maybasch, Melange, Mele, Mi-cuit, Minchcw, Nett, Noil, Organzine, Ouvrees, Oval, Pearlina, Pel, Pelo, Poie, Pure dye Silk, Raw (see Grege), Re-reels, Retorse, Senegal, Sewing, Simonita, Soft Singles, Soie Ondee, Souple, Spun, Steeped, Strafilato, Stumba, Thrown, Tors San File, Tram, Tramette, Tsatlees, Tussah, Twist, Washed, Zaguri.

The product of the boiling-off (also called, degumming) process, in which raw silk, thrown silk, or fabricated silk is subjected to a treatment in hot water, soap and other solutions to dissolve and remove the gum or sericin, which is the coat protecting the clean fibre filaments of a thread from becoming separated, and to remove tints, dirt and other foreign substances which are not inherent in the nature of the silk. (Official definition, U.S.A.) ———————— Undyed thrown silk which has had the natural gum removed by boiling in soap solution. This process of boiling-off removes about 25 per cent of the weight. It is a necessary operation (same as degumming). Before boiling-off the thread is harsh, stiff and dull, but afterwards it is soft, flexible and lustrous.

The operation of drawing silk from the cocoons or unwinding is termed reeling. The filaments from several cocoons are reeled together as a single thread. They are not twisted, but adhere to each other by reason of the gum which joins the two threads in the bave. ———————— The process of unwinding yarn from cops or bobbins and rewinding on to a revolving reel in the form of skeins or hanks, in which form it is most suitable for export, or for sizing, dyeing, bleaching or mercerising. The cotton reel is usually 54-in. in circumference. Cross Reeling is the method usually adopted when the hanks are for dyeing. The thread is traversed rapidly across a width of 3-in., making diamond-shaped crossings which keep the yarn open and makes hanks capable of undergoing the dyeing process without entanglement of the yarn. Grant Reeling is similar to cross reeling, but the crossing of the thread is more open and shows decided diamond-shaped openings both on the reel and when opened out for rewinding. By this method of crossing, hanks of great length can be reeled ranging from 5 to 10 times 840 yards. Straight, or Lea Reeling - This consists in reeling the yarn in groups or leas formed by holding the traverse rail stationary for 80 revs. (120 yards) and then moving it bodily a short distance. In a 840-yard hank there will be seven leas side by side, the yarn being continuous from one lea to another. Two interlacing tie bands are usual. This method is used for export yarns shipped in 10-lb. bundles. Ring-tie Reeling - Cotton yarns for polishing (see Glace Yarn) is reeled by this method. The length of each lea is 210 yards and straight reeled two leas in length. The tie band is in the form of a figure 8 so that it can move freely with the friction of the brushes. The beginning end of the first lea is tied to the finishing end of the second lea, but not tied to the tie band. Skein Yarn - Yarn reeled in sections of a given weight.

ка́мера ж.

Silk fabric woven in the Bombay district on hand looms from Indian silk, and dyed in the bandhana method. By this bandhana method, the white silk fabric is folded into two, four, eight, or sixteen folds, like folding a letter, corresponding with the number of repetitions of the design required. If two " repeats " are wanted, the fabric is folded once; for four " repeats " twice; for eight " repeats " three times, etc. On the uppermost of these folds the design is printed in lines, with blocks, in red ochre mixed with gum arable, and then knots are tightly tied at intervals along the lines with cotton thread, in such a way that when the fabric enters the dye, the dye will not penetrate to the small portion or spot on the cloth around which the thread is tied. The fabric is then " mordanted " with alum and dyed orange. Then another design is printed upon it in the interspaces of the first which remains tied, knots are tied on the second design, and the fabric dyed red. All the knots are then untied, the fabric spread on a small raised platform, and some of the orange spots touched with indigo to make them green. Bandhani is the name of this process in Gujrat, but in Rajputana and Ulwar, where Hindu is spoken, it is Bandhana. (Bandhana means knot tying, and is derived from the Hindu verb Bandhi, to tie.)

Wet spinning produces the finest flax yarns. Normally, flax fibres contain glutinous matter that holds the fibres together in groups. To overcome this difficulty the roving is passed through a trough on the spinning frame containing hot water (180 deg. F.). This process softens the gum and allows the fibres to be drawn apart over each other, thus producing finer and more even yams. Dry Flax Spinning - Usually flax is only spun dry when it is desired to produce strong coarse yarns, or bulky tow yarn for weft or uses where unevenness is not considered a detriment.

A stiffening process about 1820 to 1850 for cotton net. A mixture of gum, starch and chemicals was used and a piece of fabric of 20-lb. weight became 80-lb. when dressed.

Raw silk just sufficiently scoured to remove about 8 per cent or 9 per cent of its weight, the loss being caused by removing part of the outer gum layer. It is softened by the process and a dull effect obtained. Souple means soft.