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101 Anascote
ANASCOTE (also Anacaste, Anacoste)A Dutch fabric made for export from rough woollen yams in 2 X 2 twill weave. The yams are of good quality and the cloth is given a very smooth finish. It is used for clothing by business men and religious orders. French and German manufacturers also make the cloth, but the quality is rather better. -
102 Anacaste
ANASCOTE (also Anacaste, Anacoste)A Dutch fabric made for export from rough woollen yams in 2 X 2 twill weave. The yams are of good quality and the cloth is given a very smooth finish. It is used for clothing by business men and religious orders. French and German manufacturers also make the cloth, but the quality is rather better. -
103 Anacoste
ANASCOTE (also Anacaste, Anacoste)A Dutch fabric made for export from rough woollen yams in 2 X 2 twill weave. The yams are of good quality and the cloth is given a very smooth finish. It is used for clothing by business men and religious orders. French and German manufacturers also make the cloth, but the quality is rather better. -
104 Appret Guignet
A patented finish to waterproof fabrics. The cloth was steeped in a liquid compound of a solution of alumina and sulphate of iron, added to a soap solution. After drying, the cloth is claimed to be rot and waterproof and will never mould; the fabric is tinted green. -
105 Back
The underside of a cloth as woven in the loom. Some cloths are woven face down for ease in weaving; as, for instance, warp satins, in which the lift is 4 / 1, by weaving face down, only one thread is lifted and four remain down. The pattern in a fancy cloth will always indicate the face, and so will the finish. -
106 Banda Stripes
This is a waste weft cloth made in the Rawtenstall and Rochdale districts. Widths about 50-in. to 54-in. finished. Lengths 10 and 6 yards. Designs all blue and grey stripes. Finished with a stiff finish to weigh about 31/2-lb. for 53-in. 10 yards (56-in. soft). A popular cloth is 56-in., 100 yards (soft), 48 X 40 per inch, 30's/8's condenser. The twist is heavily sized. Ends per inch vary from 48 to 56, and picks from 36 to 44. Twist nearly always 30's and weft 7's, 8's, or 9's. The colour is indigo blue. -
107 Baracan
A heavy woollen fabric used for furniture covers and draping purposes, close set in reed with a hard twist warp of worsted, and a three or more fold hard twist worsted weft, in a warp rib weave. The cloth is moire finish. Also known as Percan. Also a cloth made with a silk warp and goat's hair weft with weft ribs is known under this name. -
108 Beaver (Castor)
An overcoating cloth with one face sheared, heavily milled and nap-raised finish. It has a soft handle, and made of fine-grade wool as an imitation of beaver's fur. Now used for making hats, uniforms, etc. Two warps and two wefts are used of good quality wool. The weave is the 4-end sateen, two face and one back picks. A cloth woven 100-in, would be finished to about 56-in. wide. The finishing process is a special one, and the fabric shrunk considerably during finishing in both width and length. Many imitations have a cotton warp and shoddy weft. -
109 Bengaline
A silk fabric with cords across the piece as in a poplin. The cords are of wool, cotton or silk. If all silk, known as Bengaline de Soie. A cotton bengaline is made of all cotton, with a 2/60's warp and 6's or 8's weft. A 32's fine weft is used as well. Mercerised finish (picking is one coarse, one fine). The weave is plain, and coarse yarn is used for ribs, and space between each rib has a finer weft. The real cloth has a silk warp and worsted weft - 13/15 denier to 20/22 denier warp, 2/40's worsted for fine picks, with a thick cabled worsted yarn for cords. They are sometimes figured, as seen in the illustration, which is woven with a plain cord ground. The yarns are all botany worsted, viz., 2/76's-warp and 56's weft, 45-in. cloth from 50-in. warp. The variety known as Bengaline Marquise has a spun silk warp and worsted weft
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110 Binding Cloths
Bookbinder's cloth of muslin character. Dyed and embossed. Very stiffly finished. There are many qualities, varying from 48 X 42 per inch up to 72 X 60. The fabric itself is merely a plain weave, and the special finish gives the cloth its name. -
111 Brise
BRISE, or ELASTIC FINISHA finish for muslin, jaconets, etc., and is a special one to keep the fabric soft and clothy, leaving yams round. Drying is done on stenters, and the cloth moving all the time. -
112 Broadcloth
Given to an all-cotton cloth used for many dress purposes, bleached, dyed and printed 35-in./90 yards 124 X 64 per inch, 36's/40's yarns, 22-lb. plain weave. Better qualities have two-fold warp or two-fold warp and weft, generally 2/80's Egyptian, which greatly resemble Lancashire poplins. ———————— A term that in many districts was used to indicate garments worn by the clergy. It is a stout wool cloth. Made from fine merino yarns, and heavily milled and - finished with a dress face. It has a velvety feel and a silky gloss. A 90-in. in the loom gives 56-in. finished. One quality is made 32 X 40 per inch, from 26 skeins warp and weft. Dyed black or indigo. Another type is made from West of England woollen yams in very wide widths, and shrunk during finish about 33 per cent. Woven 2 X 1 twill. Quality varies according to price. It is a superfine, smooth-faced and dense fabric, and considered the perfection in woollen materials. -
113 Reformer
BULL-HIDE, or REFORMERA very heavy cotton fabric woven on fustian looms. It has a warp face with a twill weave. Each warp-end floats over six picks. The cloth is pile finished. Much used for cheap hats (see Reformer) ———————— See Bullhide. A heavy cotton fustian fabric, woven on 8 shafts and 8 picks as seen in the illustration. The cloth is often beaver finished, and a good trade is done with a lamb-skin finish. There is a great number of picks per inch.
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114 Canton Crepe
A heavy and coarse crepe, plain weave, usually all silk, but rayon is often used for weft. The weft is woven two picks right, and two picks reverse twist on box looms. The cloth is piece-dyed. A 45-in. cloth will finish to 41-in. The all silk style is about 280 X 56 per inch, of fine yarns, such as 35 denier warp and 50 denier weft. -
115 Canton Flannel
A 2 X 2 twill cloth woven from all-cotton yarns, soft spun weft. A raised finish is given to the cloth and a long nap produced on the face. It takes the place of flannel for many purposes where cheapness is required. One quality is made 72 X 56 per inch, 32's/10's yarns. -
116 Casement
A plain weave fabric used for casement window curtains, usually white or cream, made from good quality yams, well woven, mercerised finish. Standard qualities are: - 401/2-in., 120 yards, 48 x 60, 32's/18's, 29-lb.; 481/2-in., 120 yards, 50 X 92, 28's/24's, 41-lb. Always woven one end in a dent. The 481/2-in. cloth is a dress casement, and in this quality mohair, alpaca, or super cotton wefts are variously used. These are dyed in many colours. Many makers and buyers wrongly apply the term " Limbric " to fabrics constructed as above. A limbric is a much finer cloth and woven from Egyptian yarns (see Limbric) -
117 Cheviot
A name generally applied to heavy woollen fabrics that have a rough and shaggy face. The yarns used have a fair proportion of mungo or shoddy and cotton. The term denotes a class of fabrics, and not any particular weave. The distinguishing feature of cheviot, whatever the quality of the cloth, is the finish, of which there are two kinds known as " rough " and " close " finish. The real cheviot is a rough finished fabric made of a strong, coarse wool, and fulled to a considerable degree. -
118 Feel (Handle)
A term used to denote how a cloth feels when handled, such as: - Boardy Feel - The yarn is hard or harsh, sized too hard, or the finish is too stiff. Thin Feel - Impoverished. Crackly, or Paperlike - The cloth has the peculiar crackle of paper. Full and Clothy Peel - The conditions generally required. -
119 Finishing
FINISHING (Gloves, knit)The operations used to prepare knitted glove fabric for manufacture and these are usually shrinking, dyeing, drying, sueding and pasting. ———————— The imparting of special characteristics to certain makes of cotton goods to give them a resemblance to linen, wool, or silk. Finishing is an extensive and complicated art; and the various methods of working are modified according to whether white, grey, coloured, or printed goods are under consideration. Many forms of treatment call for the provision of specially constructed machines. The several main operations that are variously called into use may be classified in the following manner, though order of procedure is necessarily dependent on circumstances: - Singeing, raising, shearing, brushing, steaming, starching, calendering (various forms) impregnating, breaking-down, damping, mangling, moireing, embossing, stentering and stretching, doubling, measuring, plaiting, marking, pressing and packing. Many of the single operations are likewise modified according to the quality of the cloth and the nature of the finish desired. For instance, that of calendering takes many forms from the comparatively simple process of exerting pressure on the cloth for giving a slightly smooth surface, to more complicated ones and to " schreinering " for a very high gloss. -
120 Flaxon
A plain weave light weight all-cotton cloth, finished with a smooth crispy handle to imitate linen. It is made all plain in cord stripes and white, dyed or printed in 32-in., 36-in., and 40-in. Combed and gassed cotton yarns are used and the cloth has a mercerised finish. Used for underclothing, children's dresses, aprons, etc. FLAXON is a trade name in the United States of America and is stamped on the selvedge. ———————— A trade name for a fine quality of mercerised lawn. Used for blouses, dresses and lingerie.
См. также в других словарях:
finish — [fin′ish] vt. [ME finishen < extended stem of OFr finir < L finire, to end < finis, an end, limit, orig., boundary (post), something fixed in the ground < IE base * dhīgw , to stick in > DIKE1, L figere, FIX] 1. a) to bring to an… … English World dictionary
Finish — Fin ish, n. 1. That which finishes, puts an end to? or perfects. [1913 Webster] 2. (Arch.) The joiner work and other finer work required for the completion of a building, especially of the interior. See {Inside finish}, and {Outside finish}.… … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
finish — v. & n. v. 1 tr. a (often foll. by off) bring to an end; come to the end of; complete. b (usu. foll. by off) colloq. kill; overcome completely. c (often foll. by off, up) consume or get through the whole or the remainder of (food or drink)… … Useful english dictionary
finish — /ˈfɪnɪʃ / (say finish) verb (t) 1. to bring (action, speech, work, affairs, etc.) to an end or to completion. 2. to come to the end of (a course, period of time, etc.). 3. Also, finish up, finish off. to use up or consume completely: to finish… …
Lawn cloth — or lawn is a plain weave textile, originally linen but now chiefly cotton. Lawn is designed using fine, high count yarns, which results in a silky feel. The fabric is made using either combed or carded yarns. When lawn is made using combed yarns … Wikipedia
broad|cloth — «BRD KLTH, KLOTH», noun. 1. a closely woven cotton or silk cloth with a smooth finish, used in making shirts, dresses, and pajamas. 2. a closely woven woolen cloth with a smooth finish, used in making suits, coats, and dresses … Useful english dictionary
Tack cloth — is a sticky (or tacky) material used for removing dust from a surface prior to finishing it with paint, varnish, or some similar product. Introduction Tack cloth is typically used in woodworking, but can be used in other applications as well.… … Wikipedia
suede cloth — noun a fabric made to resemble suede leather • Syn: ↑suede • Hypernyms: ↑fabric, ↑cloth, ↑material, ↑textile • Hyponyms: ↑Ultrasuede * * * … Useful english dictionary
binder's cloth — noun : cotton fabric with a finish suitable for book covers compare book cloth … Useful english dictionary
linen finish — noun : a finish on paper resembling the texture of linen cloth … Useful english dictionary
Burl — (b[^u]rl), v. t. [imp. & p. p. {Burled} (b[^u]rld); p. pr. & vb. n. {Burling}.] [OE. burle stuffing, or a knot in cloth; cf. F. bourlet, bourrelet, OF. bourel, a wreath or a roll of cloth, linen, or leather, stuffed with flocks, etc., dim. of… … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
