figured+pattern

Very fine muslins used for curtains, etc., which have large jacquard designs produced by extra weft. The ground cloth is plain open weave muslin made from fine warp and weft. Thick figuring weft interweaves with the ground warp only where required for pattern, and otherwise floats loosely on the back and is afterwards cropped off.

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bʀɔʃyʀ bʀɔʃyʀ nf

ge|mụs|tert [gə'mʊstɐt] patterned

A cotton cloth woven with jacquard designs and used for table covers, napkins, curtains, upholstery cloth, etc. They can be reversible or one-sided only. Designs may be floral or geometrical. Yams 8's to 40's warp and weft. The ground and figure are bound by uniform weaves, generally twill or satin. The figure is developed by interchanging the warp and weft and the pattern so made up that the reflection of light on the threads brings out the effect. Linen and silk damasks only differ in material, as cotton damasks are made in very fine yarns. ———————— A fabric of single structure formed by two satin weaves with figure developed in warp and ground in weft satin weaves resulting in a design that shows very clearly as a warp figure on a weft ground. The figure can be made more prominent by using coloured yam. For table damasks a cotton warp with linen weft is often used. Damasks are made in numerous qualities, but all are figured in the five- or eight-shaft satin weaves. As early as the reign of Henry VIII a damask was a rich figured satin or linen and a damask was known in England as early as the 13th century. The name is derived from Damascus and is presumed to refer to the design and not the material. The finest linen damask is woven about 126 ends and 188 picks per inch from superior flax yarns. The finished sizes vary up to 90-in. wide, 6 yards long, and as a rule damask napkins and table tops can be obtained to match. Standard cloths of single damask are made: - Five-end satin, 60-ends and 56 picks per inch, 50's T., 35's lea W., boiled; 8-end satin, 80 ends and 76 picks per inch, 50's T., 60's lea W., boiled (see Double Damask) ———————— Originally an all-silk fabric with large designs developed in many colours. It was a heavy cloth with satin ground and weft figure. Imitations are now made with cotton warp and cotton or rayon weft. Used for dresses, and when very heavy for curtains, furnishings, dancing shoes, etc. The brocade effects are developed in colour or fancy weaves. Damasse Arabesque has arabesque designs. Damasse Brocat has gold and silver weft for figuring. Damasse Broche has flowered designs. Damasse Cachenir has palm leaf designs. Damasse Chine has printed silk warps. Damasse Egyptien has Egyptian designs. Damasse Jardinier is an expensive damask made with silk warp and fine mercerised cotton weft. The design is of detached flowers in colours. Many coloured wefts are used.