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61 Pardia Kufr
A fine, soft cotton fabric native-made in India on hand looms. The yarns are homespun. It is used in natural colour, and fancy patterns of birds and flowers are embroidered on it with gold and silver threads, for wear as a shawl. Qualities vary and one style is made 72 ends and 64 picks per inch, 52's warp, 48's weft. -
62 Punjab Silk Cloths
A general term for imitations of native Indian cloths, made with the jacquard harness in fancy checks, stripes, shot effects and figured weaves. All-silk yarns are used.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Punjab Silk Cloths
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63 Puritan
An alpaca lining fabric in which coloured and grey yarns arc used. Made with cotton warp and alpaca weft in plain or fancy twill weaves. Qualities vary from 56 to 70 ends per inch, 68 to 90 picks per inch, 2/50's, 2/80's and 2/90's cotton warp and 20's to 30's alpaca weft. The plain weave styles are usually of lower quality than the twills. -
64 Ropes
NAUTICS - Ropes are made of hemp, flax, jute, cotton and numerous other fibres in different countries. The strands are twisted in a different direction from that of the original yarns. See following list. They are often measured by their circumference in inches and length in fathoms (6 feet). Bandura-wel. Pliable cord. Stem Pitcher plant, Ceylon. Cable. Heaviest ropes: over 10-in. circumference. Cable-laid ropes. Three ropes, three strands, twisted into one. Cablet. Ropes less than 10-in. circumference. Cant. The strand of the rope. Dori. Indian-made ropes used for tents. Dumb waiter rope. Untarred ropes of hemp. Fag end. Untwisted end of a rope. Fake. A single coil of rope. Fancy line. Braided cord used for sash windows on ships. Fathom. Standard length of rope measure - one F. is 6 feet. Hawser. Small cable twisted from three small ropes each of 20 strands. Heart. The core strand of a rope. Heart yarn. The centre of a core yarn. Kickling. Old rope round cables to keep them from chafing. Kink. To twist a rope. Knittles. The strands of two ropes twisted together. Lacs. Strong thin cords. Lay. The strand of a rope. Laying. The doubling process in rope making. Lizard. A rope with several rings spliced into it. Marling. Small tarred rope used to tie ropes. Mat. Made of old ropes, interwoven and beaten flat. Netting. Network made of cord. Parcelling. Wrapping of old canvas round ropes for protection. Patent cordage. Ropes or cords spun by natives. Paunch mat. Ships mat made from rope. Plain laid rope. Hemp or manila rope, made of three strands RH twist. Rattine. Small rope, measured by the fathom. Rombowline. Condemned canvas or rope. Rope yarn. Yarn made of RH twist, manila or hemp. Russia rope. Untarred cables and cords of hemp. Seizing. Binding two ropes together with marling. Seizing stuff. Rope of 4 to 12 strands used for seizing. Sel. Strong rope made of hemp fibres in India. Selvagee. Skein of rope with another rope wound around it. Sennit. Braid formed by plaiting strands of rope together. Shroud laid. Rope with core and four strands twisted around it. Shroud rope. Finer quality of rope of three plies; used for rigging. Spun yarn. Rope of long tow hemp, tarred and rubbed. Strap. Rope spliced to form a ring. Suti. Twisted cotton rope in India. Swab. Bunch or mop of soft rope. Tapered rope. Rope with strain bearing part thicker. Water laid. Heavy rope, three strands each with three plies, used for hawsers. White rope. Untarred cordage on ships. Worming. Filling divisions in rope between the lays with spun yarn. Wrack. Sea grass used for coarse ropes. -
65 Safa
Fine cotton cloth made in the Punjab for use as a head-dress. There are headings at each end, dyed in fancy shades, and coloured silk and gold threads are used for decoration. The yarns are about 60's to 90's and set about 80 ends and 100 picks per inch. Used also as scarves by the natives. -
66 Satin Back Coating
A worsted fabric, made on the fancy twill basis with a satin back. The coarser warp yarn at the back gives weight and yet allows a fine face weave. This cloth is made 69-in. wide to give 58-in. finished. Warped 2 face, 1 back. The yarns are all worsted 2/56's face, 2/36's back warps and single 24's weft, 132 ends and 92 picks per inch (face 88, back 44).
Dictionary of the English textile terms > Satin Back Coating
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67 Satin Moss
A worsted fabric made in narrow widths about 24-in. in fancy twill weaves, used for dress goods. Piece-dyed and soft finish. The cloth is also known as " Albatross." One quality is made 60 ends and 52 picks per inch, 30's warp, 40's weft, worsted crepe yarns. -
68 Silk Imperial Braid
A very narrow woven fancy silk braid having a pearl edge and made of dyed yarns, in all colours. Sold in skeins for embroidery work.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Silk Imperial Braid
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69 Slub Yarn
This is a fancy yarn in which thick places occur at regular or random intervals. Slub yarns can be single, two- or three-ply. -
70 Susienchow
A silk fabric made in China from organzine warp and fancy spiral weft producing ribs across the piece. Coloured yarns are generally used, but sometimes stripes are made with all the warp coloured. -
71 Twilled Merinos
Dress fabrics made in France during the early 19th century from Spanish merino wool yarns, either 2 & 1 twill or 2 & 1 and another simple twill to obtain a fancy effect. -
72 Vestings
Fabrics formerly very popular for men's fancy vests and other dress purposes. The range includes pique welts, Bedford cords, and an infinite variety of figured weaves. Some styles had very elaborate jacquard figured ornamentation depicting hunting and pastoral subjects. A commoner method of ornamentation was to use the double plain texture and introduce small extra warp or extra weft spots in silk yarns dyed in gay colours. All white pique with fine well defined welts were formerly in great favour for occasional wear on special occasions. -
73 Voile Fabrics
Very light open plain weave dress fabrics. The best qualities of voile are made with fine, very hard twisted two-fold combed and gassed cotton yarns. Gassing is done to remove all projecting loose fibres and make the yarn surface as clear as possible. It is a distinctive feature of good voile fabrics that warp ends and weft picks should appear singly in the cloth, that is, with a tiny space between adjacent threads. They are woven one end in a dent. Plain voiles are produced white, piece-dyed in self colours, and printed in huge quantities mostly in dainty colourings and very attractive designs. Various fancy stripes and checks are made with voile ground texture. Standard makes of plain cotton voiles are as follows: -
* Combed and gassed Sakel. 38 turns per inch
** Combed Sakel. 38 turns per inch
*** Combed and gassed Sakel. 46 turns per inch. -
74 Townsend, Matthew
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]b. Leicester (?), Englandd. after 1867 USA[br]English inventor of the latch needle for making seamless hose, and developer of ribbed knitting on circular machines.[br]Townsend, who described himself in his first patent as a framework knitter and afterwards as a hosier of Leicester, took out a patent in 1847 for the application of a "machine like that of a point net frame to an ordinary stocking-frame". He described needles and hooks of a peculiar shape which were able to take the work off the knitting machine, reverse the loops and return them again so that ribbed knitting could be made on circular machines. These became popular for knitting stockings which, although not fully fashioned, had sufficient strength to fit the leg. In 1854 he took out a patent for making round hose with heels and toes fashioned on other machines. In yet another patent, in 1856, he described a method of raising looped pile on knitted fabrics for making "terry" towelling fabrics. He could use different coloured yarns in the fabric that were controlled by a Jacquard mechanism. It was in the same year, 1856, in a further patent that he described his tumbler or latch needles as well as the making of figured patterns in knitting on both sides of the fabric with a Jacquard mechanism. The latch needles were self-acting, being made to move up and down or backwards and forwards by the action of cams set in the cylindrical body of the machine. Normally the needle worked in a vertical or inclined position with the previous loop on the shank below the latch. Weft yarn was placed in the hook of the needle. The needle was drawn down between fixed plates which formed a new loop with the weft. At the same time, the original loop already on the shank of the needle moved along the shank and closed the latch so that it could pass over the newly formed loop in the needle hook and fall over the end of the needle incorporating the new loop on its way to make the next row of stitches. The latch needle obviated the need for loop wheels and pressers and thus simplified the knitting mechanism. Townsend's invention was the forerunner of an entirely new generation of knitting machines, but it was many years before its full potential was realized, the bearded needle of William Lee being preferred because the hinge of the latch could not be made as fine as the bearded needle.Townsend was in the first rank of skilful manufacturers of fancy Leicester hosiery and had a good practical knowledge of the machinery used in his trade. Having patented his needles, he seems not to have succeeded in getting them into very profitable or extensive use, possibly because he fixed the royalty too high. His invention proved to be most useful and profitable in the hands of others, for it gave great impetus to the trade in seamless hose. For various reasons he discontinued his business in Leicester. He emigrated to the USA, where, after some initial setbacks, he began to reap the rewards of his skill.[br]Bibliography1847, British patent no. 11,899 (knitting machine). 1854, British patent no. 1,523 (seamless hose).1856, British patent no. 1,157 ("terry" towelling fabrics).1856, British patent no. 1,858 (latch needles and double-sided patterns on fabrics).Further ReadingF.A.Wells, 1935, The British Hosiery and Knitwear Industry, London (mentions Townsend briefly).W.Felkin, 1967, History of the Machine-wrought Hosiery and Lace Manufactures, reprint, Newton Abbot (orig. pub. 1867) (a better account of Townsend).RLH
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