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41 Boutonne Cloth
French term for a cotton fabric made in fancy jacquard designs with slub yarns; used for dress purposes. -
42 Carole
A striped twill trousering cloth of the 18th century made from two fold woollen warp yarns dyed in fancy colours. The weft was single. -
43 Cellular
A leno fabric having an open or cell-like structure, and specially suited for shirtings and underwear. A common style is made 28-in., 120 yards, 32 X 40 per inch, 2/24's 24's, 23-lb. Better cloth is made from super yarns such as 2/40's ground and 2/30's crossing warps. The take-up of the crossing warp is about 70 per cent., thus for 100 yards of cloth 170 yards of warp is used. Mercerised yarn is introduced to give variety. The cloths known as " Ventilette " and " Aertex " are purely cellular fabrics, used for shirtings, underwear, etc. The illustration shows a cellular shirting cloth with a fancy stripe between each bar of cellular weave
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44 Circassians
A lining fabric made originally of mohair yarns in a fancy twill weave. It is now also made of rayon. -
45 Core Yarn
A fancy yarn made with a centre yarn of possibly cheap material around which is wound a more expensive material which completely covers the cheap yarn. Sometimes a core is introduced for additional strength. The " Urgoite " core yarn consists of a core of paper wrapped with wool,)ute, flax, etc. The " Leclercq Dupire " yarn has a cotton core and a worsted covering. Tinsel yams are also core yarns. -
46 Seersucker
CRINKLE, or SEERSUCKEROriginally a silk fabric with flat and puckered stripes alternating across the fabric. Now applied to cotton dress fabrics of the better quality crimp styles, woven 32-in. wide in many weights. Two beams are required, one for the crimp stripes and one for the ordinary. One cloth has 72 ends and 72 picks per inch, 2/60's and 30's warps, 32's weft, super Egyptian yarns (see Seersucker) ————————SEERSUCKER (See Crinkle)This term is common in the U.S.A., and given to a plain and crimped stripe fabric either bleached or dyed, and used for drapery and furnishings as well as dress purposes. A common quality is made 40-in. wide 64 ends and 64 picks per inch, 26's warp, 20's weft. Woven from two beams in stripes of plain weave and crimp which is also plain weave. The plain ground ends are firmly weighted and the crimping ends are lightly weighted. Fancy designs are obtained by using colour or rayon in the warps. Another class of seersucker is made from a plain cotton cloth that is printed in stripes with a preparation that will resist the action of caustic soda. The cloth is passed through a concentrated solution of caustic soda and the imprinted part shrinks. The effect is that of crimped stripes.
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47 Curl Yarn
A type of fancy yarn twist, in which loops are formed of mohair or thick cotton or two ordinary threads. One of the ordinary or thin threads and the thick cotton or mohair are twisted together, the thin thread being tightly held and the thick one slackly twisted round it. This two-fold thread is then twisted in the reverse direction with another thin thread. The reverse twisting throws up the thick thread in the form of loops. The curls or loops vary in size from small to large. Small loops are usually on yarns intended for dress goods, large ones for astrakhans, etc. -
48 Dhootie
Light-weight cloths of plain weave and used by the natives of India as loin cloths. The cheaper styles have a narrow coloured stripe near each selvedge and coloured cross stripes or headings; others have simply grey stripes, made by cramming ends in the reed. The better styles have fancy dobby borders of extra coloured warp threads and crammed cross stripes in the weft. Widths are about 25-in. to 54-in., lengths about 21/2 yards to 6 yards each, and the yams vary enormously. The variety in design and quality is continually altering - rayon and silk are being used for the borders and headings - jacquard effects are seen in the better qualities and especially where Egyptian yarns are used. Two qualities are as follows: - 42-in. wide, 64 ends 38's T., 60 picks 42's W., 24-shaft dobby borders; 40-in. wide, 76 ends 50's T., 76 picks 60's W., jacquard borders, all Egyptian. The left-hand illustration shows a two-colour border, and on the right a red dobby border.
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49 Drap Pique
A French vesting fabric made of silk yarns in fancy quilted designs. -
50 Ice Wool
Fine two-fold worsted knitting yarn used for shawls; in all colours. ———————— A thick, fluffy wool yarn, mostly used for knitting comforters and other fancy articles. It is made of two-fold yarns, very soft spun and has a high gloss finish. Also known as Eis wool. -
51 Futako-Ori
A dress material of French make composed of cotton yarns in fancy dobby or small brocade figures. Silk warp threads were used for further effects. -
52 Greys (Grey Cloth)
All-cotton cloths containing unbleached yarns are called greys, whether plain or fancy weaves.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Greys (Grey Cloth)
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53 Khangas
These are shawl lengths in plain weave, made in stripes and checks, about 60 ends and 60 picks per inch, 30's T., 34's W., cotton yarns. There are headings and fringes at each end. A variety is also made with printed designs generally in fancy checkings, and such designs as birds, insects, etc., in the blue discharge style. -
54 Knop Yarn
A fancy yarn with lumps or thick places appearing at intervals. The knops can be either the same colour as the ground thread or in other colours. It consists of one or more foundation yarns usually two-ply and a coarse hard-twisted yarn, the latter forms the knops. The foundation yarn is delivered slowly at intermittent speed while the delivery of the coarse yarn is quicker and continuous resulting in the intermittent accumulation of this thread which forms the knops. A third thread may be doubled with the former group with twist in the opposite direction and about half the turns. Knop yarn is used to ornament numerous fabrics and is most often used as weft. -
55 Laventine
A thin all-silk fabric for sleeve linings, made in many qualities, and both plain, twill and fancy weaves. Good quality yarns are used (see Levantine) -
56 Limousine
A dress or costume fabric made from worsted yarns. The cloth is fulled and slightly raised. The weave is a herringbone twill with narrow stripes of another simple weave dividing the twill ground into stripes. A fancy loop yarn is also used as extra ornament. -
57 Linen
Cloth made of flax. The fabrication of linen in England was not carried on to any great extent before the middle of the 16th century. It was made here in the time of the Anglo-Saxons. Linen was worn as garments for wear next to the skin. In the 14th and 15th centuries much linen was imported from abroad, cloth of Lake, cloth of Rennes, cloth of Ypres and of Gaunt, being specially mentioned. The linen most commonly noticed during the Middle Ages for wear was known as " Holland," the cloth woven in that country, and the name has descended to the present day. In the reign of Charles II an act was passed for the encouragement of the manufacturing of all kinds of linen cloth and tapestry made from hemp or flax. Linen fabrics are manufactured in numerous qualities, bleached, dyed or in natural colour. The varieties of the plain weave fabrics are: - Cambrics, handkerchiefs, lawns, pillow cloth sheetings, hollands, canvas, duck dress linens, brown linens, aeroplane linens, interlinings, sailcloth, scrims, crash, roughs and dowlas. These fabrics differ considerably in setting and yarns. Fancy weave cloths comprise diapers, damasks, honeycombs, huckabacks, drills, towels, etc. All the above fabrics are imitated in cotton and many are cheapened by using cotton warp and flax weft. ———————— One of the oldest known fabrics is that made from flax yarn and called linen. The Egyptians thought linen was an emblem of purity, and used it as a wrapping for their dead. By the term linen is generally meant a medium weight cloth with plain weave, and one that takes the same standing in the linen trade as calico does in the cotton trade. -
58 Mireshka Work
Russian fancy work consisting of embroidery in coloured yarns on canvas having drawn thread effects. -
59 Mixture Yarn
A fancy yarn used in the wool trade. It is spun from fibres which have been dyed in various colours before spinning and these are mixed together to produce a desired tone. It may be woollen or worsted spun. Typical yarns are heather, lovats and tinted greys. -
60 Orleantine
A worsted dress serge fabric of French make, woven from two-fold yarns in from 8 to 16 shaft fancy twill weaves. Made in many qualities such as 72 ends and 68 picks per inch, 2/30's warp, 2/36's weft, all worsted.
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