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81 Brown Egyptian
Cotton having a long, clean and easily worked staple, of golden-brown colour, the fibre is tough and very strong, but shorter and coarser than Gallini. -
82 Bruges Lace
A fine lace tape similar to Duchesse Lace, used for expensive dresses as trimmings. Coarser varieties (thicker thread) are used for table sets, etc. -
83 Camel Hair
The soft downy hair from the haunches and under part of the camel. Length of fibre is 4 in up to 10 in. The yarn is a soft worsted type and much used for carpets, hosiery, hatting, dressing gowns rugs etc. Spun into about 30's counts and then into two fold or three fold yarns. This hair is strong and soft and of a brown colour, and it is difficult to bleach. Each animal yields about 10-lb annually. The longer and coarser hair is used for belting. Obtained chiefly from China and Russia. On arrival in Bradford the hair is scoured carded and combed, and the tops and noils produced are a regular market article. There is a steady consumption of the long hair in the carpet industry and of the noils in the hosiery and hatting trades. A certain quantity of coarse hair is used in the belting industry, and a smaller amount is used in making waterproof hoods for motor cars. Dyed blends of strong hair and wool are sometimes called camel hair and are sold for making filter cloths and other mechanical services. The best " camel's hair brushes used by artists are said to be made from squirrel tails hair of the camel is almost never used for brushes. -
84 Camelotte
18th century French fabrics made with pin-head spots all over the fabric, produced by coloured weft coarser than warp. -
85 Canadian Wool
Quite a lot of western wool is of a merino character, and of a very useful order. There is a tendency to the incidence of grey fibres which might be better controlled by careful elimination of undesirable breeding types. The grading of wools in the cross-bred classes is after the U.S.A. pattern, and takes the form of quarter-blood, three-eights-blood, half-blood, etc., and is quite a good designation in indicating the merino element in any strain. The eastern wools are coarser, and more British in character, indicating the influence of our well-known home breeds in fixing their types. But much of the Canadian wool is faultily " got-up," and quite a lot is full of vegetable matter, due, no doubt, to the artificial feeding during the winter months, with the continual dropping in the wool of seed, grass, and other vegetable feeds. As a substitute for hosiery wools, many Canadian varieties are quite useful. -
86 Carpet Wools
Low coarse wool, usually obtained from native or unimproved sheep and used in the manufacture of carpets. These wools have a " boardiness " and harshness necessary for durability of pile, i.e., for the prevention of " matting." British wool, particularly from the coarser-woolled type of improved sheep, is sometimes termed carpet wool and put to the same use as black-faced and other true carpet wools. -
87 Carpets
The principal types are Axminster, Brussels and Wilton, and brief particulars of each are given below. A more detailed description is given under each name. Axminster is a cut fabric made any width and with any number of colours. It is not produced on a jacquard, therefore the pile does not show on the back. The design is developed by a series of tufts which are bound into the fabric, every tuft is on the surface and only the foundation cloth is seen at the back. There are two principal varieties of these carpets, the Chenille Axminster and the Machine tufted Axminster. The Chenille type is made by two distinct operations, that of manufacturing the chenille weft and that of weaving the carpet with this weft. The " fur or chenille is first woven on an ordinary loom (see chenille) and when cut into the strips is used as weft with a linen, jute or folded cotton warp. The chenille is made preferably with the leno way of shedding in order to bind the wool yarn more firmly. All the figuring weft is on the surface and not embedded in the fabric. The chenille weft is often inserted by hand, but several mechanical methods for doing the work are now in use. From three to six tufts per inch are usual. The chenille Axminster Carpet is also known as the Patent Axminster carpet. The machine-tufted type or Royal Axminster is also formed from pile tufts previously prepared and afterwards woven in the ground warp and bound into the fabric with a binding weft. The tufts may be inserted by hand and the pile is all on the surface of the fabric. This pile is a warp product, whereas for the chenille variety it is weft. Axminster carpets are a product of skill and patience and any number of colours can be used. There are several varieties of machine-made axminster carpets. Wilton is a cut pile fabric woven 27-in. wide from not more than six colours, the yarns are fine counts and design produced by jacquards. Brussels is made almost in the same way as a Wilton, but the pile is not cut and this shows as loops on the face. The yarn is much coarser than for Wiltons. Kidderminster - A carpet made from two or more plain cloths woven together. Each cloth is brought on the face for figuring as required. Turkish - These are hand made. The pile is put into the ground warp by hand as tufts and knotted round them according to pattern. There are two picks of ground weft between each row of pile. Tapestry - Carpets woven from printed warps. The pile is cut or left uncut as required for the design. Persian - Carpets similar to Turkish, being hand made. See also Axminster, Brussels, Kidderminster, Persian Tapestry, Turkish, Wilton Carpets, Body Brussels, Brusselette, Ingrain. -
88 Cashmere
This fibre is remarkable for its softness and is used for the manufacture of the famous Indian shawls. There are two qualities of cashmere wool, the one consisting of the fine soft down-hairs from 11/4-in. long, and the other of long, coarser beard-hairs from 31/2-in. to 41/2-in. long. The fibre is obtained from the Tibetan goat in Tibet, China and Northern India. Yarns are spun in Yorkshire, U.S.A., Germany and other countries. -
89 Clearer Heald
This term is applied to a heald of coarser set than those used for the warp threads, and the threads or warp simply pass between the wires and not through the eyes. This heald is used for rayon warps and allows the lease rods to be discarded. Manufacturers maintain that the warp breakages are greatly reduced by adopting this method. -
90 Cluny Lace
A lace similar to torchon. The designs are usually geometrical, wheels, etc., and are made with coarse linen thread with bobbins. The machine imitation is of cotton. The hand-made is used for lingerie and dresses and the coarser kinds for pillows, centre-pieces, etc. -
91 Corkscrews
Officially classified as a major defect by the Silk Association of America. The appearance is spiral like raw silk thread, instead of smooth and cylindrical. It may seem thinner or coarser in size, but this may prove to be only an illusion. The spirality runs for varying lengths. It is caused in the reeling operations by some cocoon filaments having become unevenly tensioned, or a cocoon filament may have broken and been tied or pieced with the tails not cut so that the tails may have attached to the thread in the reeling in spiral like fashion on to the raw silk thread; this defective portion of the thread is called corkscrew. -
92 Cotton (Ashmouni)
Ashmouni (or "Upper Egyptian") is one of the older cottons of Egypt, and is the poorest in quality, being weaker, more irregular and dirtier, than the other varieties. It has a staple of about 11/8-in. and is used mostly for the coarser wefts. Recently, complaints have been made regarding the mixing of this cotton with Mitafifi, which reduces the quality of the Mitafifi and produces a deteriorated seed for sowing purposes. -
93 Crepe Antique
A heavy form of crepe-de-Chine, woven with a silk or rayon warp, coarser than usual and with the usual crepe weft. -
94 Crimps
A plain weave cloth woven from two beams, usually differently weighted, and with different counts of yarn. The finer warp is tight and the coarser slack. This difference in counts and tension causes the coarse parts to crimp and become prominent. Coloured yams are often used. Many qualities ate made. One make has 80 ends and 60 picks per inch, 32's T. and 2/60's colour, 30's W. A fine cotton crimp in stripe form, and a check crimp are illustrated. Crimps are also produced from botany and mohair yarns in many qualities, the crimp effect being obtained through the different shrinkage of the two yarns
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95 Crochet Lace
Any hand-knitted lace made with the crochet hook. Similar to needle-point lace, but coarser; they imitate such laces as Venetian and Honiton. Irish crochet is the most popular and is of linen thread. Imitations come from many Eurpoean and Asiatic countries. The various design elements are made separately and joined together by bars. -
96 Daka
Cotton muslin, made in Turkestan in several qualities, the finer grades are used for turbans, the coarser for lining garments. -
97 Domestic Wools
An American term for the fleece wools, or, as they are sometimes termed, washed fleeces, bright wools, territories, Texas and Californias. Broadly, the term Domestic Wools include all wools grown in the United States. Washed Fleeces include the Ohio, Pennsylvania and Michigan fleeces, and are very similar to Australian wools in fineness and felting properties. Bright Wools are slightly coarser but more lustrous than the washed fleeces. Territory Wools are somewhat similar to the above and derive their name from the fact that they come from the West and Northern States, which for many years were under territorial government. -
98 End And End Figuring
Fabrics in which two kinds of warp ends are used, arranged in the cloth one end of each alternately. A well-known type had one end of fine cotton alternating with one end of coarser mercerised cotton. All the figuring is done by the mercerised ends, making a figured all-over effect possible at a lower cost than using a warp all mercerised. Modern applications of this principle are fabrics in which one end or cotton alternates with one of rayon. Another variation is an alternation of one end white, one end colour.Dictionary of the English textile terms > End And End Figuring
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99 Estrich
ESTRICH, ESTRIDGEThe fine soft down immediately underlying the feathers of the ostrich, used as a substitute for beaver in making hats, or with the coarser qualities in the production of a stuff resembling fine woollen cloth. "Estridge wooll" as well as "bever wooll" was allowed to be imported free in the time of Charles II. -
100 Estridge
ESTRICH, ESTRIDGEThe fine soft down immediately underlying the feathers of the ostrich, used as a substitute for beaver in making hats, or with the coarser qualities in the production of a stuff resembling fine woollen cloth. "Estridge wooll" as well as "bever wooll" was allowed to be imported free in the time of Charles II.
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