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Twill weave all-cotton cloths of many qualities and widths. Printed both sides, on the face with the fancy pattern, and on the back they are printed black to prevent the face pattern showing through. Cheap quality, 40-in., 64 yards, 72 ends and 72 picks per inch, 36's warp, 38'sweft. Medium quality, 40-in., 64 yards, 72 ends and 96 picks per inch, 34's warp, 34's weft.

A style of toilet cloth with twice as many face picks and ends as back ones. The face is plain weave, with pattern formed by stitching in diamond and other geometrical designs. Sometimes wadding picks are put in to give the pattern greater prominence.

A term applied to toilet cloths, welts, etc., where the wadding weft interweaves with the warp stitching ends in plain order.

These are the Marseilles quilts, in which the wadding weft is interwoven with warp threads to give solidity to the cloth.

The cotton velvet made from weft pile with a twill ground is known by this name in the U.S.A.

See Toilets.

Velvets, silks, ribbons, etc., woven with the reverse side of the fabric in satin weave.

A term that is commonly known as 2 & 2 rib, or two ribs alternating on face and back of children's stockings. ———————— A strong cotton cloth used for suitings. It is cut pile fabric, and has hard-wearing qualities. The weave has a cord or rib surface with either round or flat tops, with pile formed by the weft. When woven with a twill back it is known as a " Genoa back," and when a plain back is used it is termed " tabby back " corduroy. Fabrics of this class are woven in the same way as velvets, except that the pile picks are bound by the warp so as to form straight lines of floats; thus producing a ribbed surface. After weaving, the material undergoes (before cutting) the same stiffening and liming process as velvets. Corduroys are made in many varieties, known as fine reed, eight shafts, thicksets, constitutions, cables, etc. (see Constitutionals). The illustration shows a corduroy design, wherein crosses show ground weaves and filled squares the pile picks. An illustration is given of the cloth with the pile cut. The ribs may vary from 12 to 1 per inch ▪

General term for processes after winding concerned in preparing weaver's and knitter's warps. Methods of warping vary according to (1) the yarns employed (2) whether they are sized or not, and (3) at what state sizing takes place. There are at least seven methods of warp preparation, e.g., beam warping, direct warping, mill warping on vertical mills, section warping on horizontal mills and in cheeses on section blocks, Scotch dresser sizing, Scotch warp dressing, and Yorkshire warp dressing. Beam Warping is the system in general use for making grey cotton goods. The beam warper comprises a creel for the supply ends, which may be on double-flanged bobbins, cones or cheeses, and a beaming head which comprises mechanism for mounting and rotating a warper's beam and means for winding the yarn from the creel supply on to the beam under suitable tension. The number of ends and length of warp on a back or warper's beam is related to what is required in the weaver's beam. Assuming the weaver's beams were required to have 2928 ends, 24's warp, and 8 cuts of 96 yards each, the back beams for a set might have 2928: 6 = 488 ends, and 2 X 6 X 8 X 96 = 9216 yards. On the slasher sizing machine six back beams would be run together, thereby producing 12 weaver's beams each containing 2928 ends 768 yards long. Warp Beaming Speeds - With the old type of warp beaming machine taking supply from unrolling double-flanged bobbins, the warping speed would be about 70 yards per minute. In modern beam warpers taking supply overend from cones, the warping speed is up to 250 yards per minute. With beam barrels of 4¹/₂-in. dia., and up to 500 yards per minute with barrels of 10-in. dia. Warp and Weft Knitted Fabrics - Warp knitted fabrics in which extra yarn is introduced in the form of weft threads which are laid in between the warp threads and their needles for the purpose of adding extra weight and for patterning purposes. Warp Loom Tapes - Narrow knitted fabrics usually less than one inch wide used for trimming garments. They are knitted on circular latch needle machines, but the tapes are flat. Direct Warping - A method used in making warps for towels, fustians, and other fabrics in which the total number of ends can be accommodated in one creel, say not more than 1,000 ends. The threads are run from the creel direct to the weaver's beam on a machine similar to that used in section beam warping. Mill Warping - There are two distinctly different methods of mill warping. On the vertical mill, which may be anything up to 20 yards in circumference, the number of ends in the complete warp is obtained by repeating the runs the required number of times, e.g., with 200 bobbins in the creel, 4 runs would give a warp of 800 ends. The length of the warp is determined by the number of revolutions made by the mill for each run. The horizontal mill is much used in Yorkshire for making woollen and worsted warps It is used to a small extent for cotton warps and is largely used for making silk and rayon warps. The mill or swift is usually about 5 yards in circumference. Its distinctive feature is the making of warps in sections which are wound on the mill in overlapping manner. The creel capacity varies from 250 to 600 ends, and with 500 ends in the creel a warp of 5,000 ends would require ten sections. Section Warping for Coloured Goods - This is a system of making coloured striped warps from hank-dyed and bleached yarns. The bobbins are creeled to pattern, one or more complete patterns to each section. Each section is the full length of the warp and is run on a small section block keywayed to fit a key on the shaft of the subsequent beaming machine where the sections are placed side by side and run on the weaver's beam. Scotch Dresser Sizing - There are two systems of warp preparation known as Scotch dressing. 1. Dresser sizing used for sizing warps for linen damasks, etc. Back beams are first made and placed in two beam creels, one on each side of the headstock. The threads from several back beams are collected in one sheet of yarn, sized by passage through a size-box, brushed by a revolving brush, dried by hot air, and passed vertically upwards where both sheets of warp threads are united and pass on to the weaver's beam in a single sheet. Scotch Warp Dressing - The other method of Scotch dressing is used in the preparation of coloured striped warps, usually from warp-dyed and bleached yarn. It consists in splitting off from ball warps previously dyed or bleached and sized, the number of ends of each colour required in the finished warp. Each group is then wound on separate flanged warpers' beams. These beams are placed in a creel and the ends drawn through a reed according to pattern, and wound finally on to the weavers' beams. Yorkshire Warp Dressing - This is a system used mostly in the preparation of coloured striped warps. It is also invaluable in preparing warps dyed and sized in warp form to prevent shadiness in the cloth. Four warps with the same number of ends in each are dyed the same colour, and in sleying, one end from each warp is put in each dent of the reed. Any tendency to shadiness arising from irregularity in dyeing is thereby effectively eliminated. In striped work the required ends are split off if necessary from a larger ball warp, sleyed to pattern in the reed, and then run under controlled tension on to the weaver's beam. The dresser uses a brush as long as the width of the warp to brush out entangled places where the threads have adhered together with size. Yorkshire dressing provides perfect warps with every thread in its proper place on the weaver's beam, no crossed or missing threads, and a minimum of knots.

Warp Beam - The roller upon which the warp yam is wound, and fitted in the loom at the back. Cloth Beam - A roller fitted in the front of the loom, upon which the cloth is wound when woven. Breast Beam - Is a bar fixed in front of the loom with the purpose of acting as a guide for the cloth on to the cloth beam. Back Beam - Is a fixed bar at the back of the loom, which guides the yarn from the warp beam to the healds (see Back Beams)

A heavy twill, all cotton, of about 2/18's warp, and 14's to 16's weft. Of the fustian variety, with an uncut pile, dyed tan or light-brown shades, has a short nap, and designed to stand hard wear as clothing. Usually woven two face to one back picks, and up to 300 picks per inch. The ends of warp vary up to 40 per inch. Besides the home trade for trouserings the cloth is shipped to most of the Colonies. Of the heavy fustian, the Imperial Sateen is the lightest weight, the Beaverteen the next, and the Moleskin is the heaviest. The illustration shows the weave, where crosses indicate the twill weave for the back. Another style is woven three face to one back, with a plain weave for back

A general term applied to many textures in which two fabrics each with its own warp and weft are combined together. The primary object is to produce a heavier cloth than could be done in a single texture, without spoiling the fineness and the weave of the face cloth. Very often the face weave is quite different from that of the back. In woollens, and overcoatings in particular, double cloth weaving permits the production of fancy checks on the back, while the face cloth is finer in appearance. Sometimes the back is made plainer and heavier than the face, principally to add bulk to the fabric. The illustration shows a woollen material with a check face and twill back.

See Drawing (Spinning) ———————— The order of drawing-in the warp threads through the eyes of the healds for weaving. The general principle is that those threads that work alike are drawn on the same stave. To avoid crowding the healds, those for weaving plain fabrics, poplins, etc., often have the ends drawn on four or six heald staves. It is a feature of weaving by healds, particularly those operated by dobbies, that very large and intricate patterns can be woven on 16 staves or less. Some drafts are so simple that they are known in the trade by name as those illustrated. Straight Over, shown at SO, in which one thread only is drawn on each stave consecutively from front to back. Skip Shaft, shown at SS, in which the threads are drawn on four staves instead of two, staves 1 and 2, and 3 and 4, being tied together to permit their operation by plain weave tappets. Point Draft, shown at P, where the first part of the draft is straight over from front to back and then returns from back to front. Double Point Draft, shown at DP, where the draft is straight over twice and from back to front twice. Broken Drafts are those not capable of being reduced to any simple regular order. See also Design, Draft and Lifting Plan. ———————— A fine, all-wool, warp ribbed cloth; used in churches during the 18th and 19th century on the Continent.

An overcoating cloth made with llama wool face. It is finished with a long nap which is rippled on a special machine. One quality is made 72-in. (loom) 52 ends and 70 picks per inch, warp 4 run, face weft 2¹/₂ run and back weft 4 run woollen yarns. Usually the yarns are dyed browns, red and greens. The back weft is generally shoddy. In the weave given strokes represent face weft and full squares back weft on 8 shafts. This cloth very often has a velour finished back.