GEORGETTES

A name that has been given to a very fine 8-shaft crepe weave fabric made in many qualities for South America, Canada, the home trade, etc. Super Egyptian yarns are used. Fair examples are 100 ends and 96 picks per inch, 80's T., 120's W., 110 ends and 108 picks per inch, 70's T., 120's W. Another georgette is woven plain from twofold combed and gassed Sakel. yarns and warped two right and two reverse twist, the weft being exactly the same as the warp. The process of finishing forms the crinkled appearance of crepe. A good example is 41-in., 60 ends and 58 picks per inch, 2/100's T., 2/80's W. (see Crepe Georgettes for silk variety)

A fine all-silk plain weave fabric, made from 46-in. to 52-in. in width to shrink 20 per cent in width and 10 per cent in length. Georgettes range from 80 ends and 80 picks to 100 ends and 100 picks per inch of 13/15 denier silk. Both warp and weft are one right, and one reverse twist. This cloth is the same as crepe-de-Chine, except that all crepe yarn is used both ways (see silk yams)

A yarn consisting of one or more raw-silk threads having been thrown in the undergummed state and twisted one way in the single ply; or several threads joined together by a twist of more than 30 turns per inch. Hardtwists are used for the production of chiffons, georgettes, radiums, grenadines, crepe-de-Chines, crepe satins, etc.

A cloth very similar to georgettes, and made from fine silk warp and cotton weft, the crepe being produced by the weave. Originally it was a crepe made from fine worsted hard-twist yarn and dyed black.

Cloth in which every warp thread passes alternately over and under successive picks of weft, and in which adjacent threads weave exactly contrary to each other, viz., when odd ends are up, even ends are down, and vice versa. Chiffons, georgettes, crepe-de-Chines, taffetas, some poplins, etc., are plain weave styles.

Silk yarns are composed of a number of silk filaments twisted together, usually 8 to 12 to form a thread. The filaments have a natural coating of gum which gives strength and elasticity, but reduces lustre. The gum must be boiled off if lustre is wanted, which may be done either in the yarn state or when woven in cloth. Silk yarns are divided into two classes, " thrown silk" and " spun silk," the first being yarns that are made by the processes of reeling and throwing, and the second consisting of yarns spun from waste silk. Thrown Silk, or Net Silk comprises organzine and tram yarns, organzine being made from the most perfect cocoons and used for warps. Tram is made from the inferior cocoons and used as weft. All silk contains a proportion of natural gum, and the amount of gum removed give rise to the following terms: - Boiled-off Silk - Yarn which has had all the gum removed, and has the highest sheen (see Boiled-off). Hard Silk - Yarn that has not undergone any boiling-off process. Ecru Silk - Yarn boiled to remove about 3 per cent to 5 per cent of the gum by light washing in lukewarm water. Souple Silk - Yarn boiled to remove about one-sixth of the gum. Bengal Silk - See Bengal Silk. Berlin Silk - A silk yarn made for fancy hand work. It is produced by doubling from 4 to 8 twisted singles grege by a right-hand twist; then again doubling three of these with a left-hand twist. The thread is very round, smooth, and hard, also known as cordon-net. Blond Silk - A special silk yarn made by doubling three grege threads left-hand twist, then doubling three of these together with right-hand twist. Brights - Silk which has been entirely de-gummed in the skein and then dyed. Bourette, Bourrette Yarn - A low grade of silk yarn made from the waste produced by schappe spinning. Canton Silk - See Canton Silk. Chiffon Twist - Single raw silk threads, 50 or more turns per inch. Used for chiffons, crepe-de-chines, etc. Crepe-de-Chine - Hard twist tram silk, about 40 to 70 turns per inch. Made from 3 to 5 raw silk ends. Usually woven as weft. Crepe Georgette - Hard twist raw silk usually made from two threads 13/15 deniers, 50 or more turns, both right and left twist, used for crepe georgettes as warp and weft. Crepe Twist - This is tram silk hard twisted, having from 30 to 100 turns per inch. Used for making fabrics of a crepe character both all silk and mixtures. Cordonnet Silk - See Berlin Silk; also under Cordonnet. Eri Silk - A raw silk obtained from the wild silkworm " Attacus ricini." Flock Silk - A general term used to indicate silk yarns made from the outer uneven parts of the cocoon. Floss Silk - Used principally for embroidery purposes. It is a thrown silk and made by doubling two thick raw singles with right-hand twist together with a left-hand twist. Galette Silk - A coarse silk yarn made from waste. Grenadine Silk - Organzine silk with a large number of turns per inch. Jaspe Silk - Silk warps printed in the hank. Ombre Silk - Skein dyed yarn in a gradation of shades, which run in sequence of depth of colour, varying from five up to forty shades. Schappe Silk - A spun silk yarn which is made from silk degummed by the maceration process used on the Continent (see Schappe Silk). Soie Ondee - See Soie Ondee. Silk Yarns - In addition to the foregoing yarns see under the following terms for further silk yarns: - Cable, Cevennes, Chappe, Chine, Clochepeid, Crocheting, Crue (see Ecru), Cuite Cusier, Cusirino, Degummed, Docken, Doup-pion. Ecru, Embroidery, Etschingo, Filature, Filature a 1'Europeune, Filet, Florette, Fringe, Goffered, Grege, Gum Hainin, Hard, Kahing, Knitting, Lousy, Marabout, Maybasch, Melange, Mele, Mi-cuit, Minchcw, Nett, Noil, Organzine, Ouvrees, Oval, Pearlina, Pel, Pelo, Poie, Pure dye Silk, Raw (see Grege), Re-reels, Retorse, Senegal, Sewing, Simonita, Soft Singles, Soie Ondee, Souple, Spun, Steeped, Strafilato, Stumba, Thrown, Tors San File, Tram, Tramette, Tsatlees, Tussah, Twist, Washed, Zaguri.

Strong selvedges woven on light cloths, such as voiles, crepes, georgettes, etc. They are made by cramming the selvedge ends in the reed and weaving them in pairs. Folded yarns are often used. The widths vary from ¹/₄-in. to ³/₄-in.