Dhootie

Light-weight cloths of plain weave and used by the natives of India as loin cloths. The cheaper styles have a narrow coloured stripe near each selvedge and coloured cross stripes or headings; others have simply grey stripes, made by cramming ends in the reed. The better styles have fancy dobby borders of extra coloured warp threads and crammed cross stripes in the weft. Widths are about 25-in. to 54-in., lengths about 2¹/₂ yards to 6 yards each, and the yams vary enormously. The variety in design and quality is continually altering - rayon and silk are being used for the borders and headings - jacquard effects are seen in the better qualities and especially where Egyptian yarns are used. Two qualities are as follows: - 42-in. wide, 64 ends 38's T., 60 picks 42's W., 24-shaft dobby borders; 40-in. wide, 76 ends 50's T., 76 picks 60's W., jacquard borders, all Egyptian. The left-hand illustration shows a two-colour border, and on the right a red dobby border.

индийская хлопчатобумажная ткань "дхути" (полотняного переплетения с цветной каймой)

индийская хлопчатобумажная ткань "дхути" (полотняного переплетения с цветной каймой)

A term used to distinguish a heading used on dhootie cloths This is the narrowest fancy heading put on these cloths and much narrower than either Bombay or Madras headings (see four examples shown in the illustration). (A) Is the ordinary two-bar heading, two headings are shown and the cloth is cut between them, leaving a half-inch fringe to each dhootie. The colour is the same as that of the borders or the predominating colour if two or more are used. (B) Same as (A) but has a fret or " goal " instead of plain cloth between the two headings. (C) This is the three-bar heading. (D) A three-bar heading with fret

Plain woven coloured cloths in stripes and checks. Colours are usually blues and blacks, with a side border differently coloured of bolder stripe or of figuring worked on the dhootie principle; 34 to 38-in. wide, 64 ends and picks to 72 ends and picks, 28's to 36's warp and weft. A standard cloth both for the home and colonial markets is 64 X 64, 28/30's, and in square designs. Fancy designs are very commonly used as apron cloths.

Plain woven coloured cloths in stripes and checks. Colours are usually blues and blacks, with a side border differently coloured of bolder stripe or of figuring worked on the dhootie principle; 34 to 38-in. wide, 64 ends and picks to 72 ends and picks, 28's to 36's warp and weft. A standard cloth both for the home and colonial markets is 64 X 64, 28/30's, and in square designs. Fancy designs are very commonly used as apron cloths.

A small-size dhootie or loin cloth.

A bordered cloth similar to a dhootie, but with a broader heading and longer length.

A word derived from Dhona, to wash, and now applied to fabrics termed dhootie. The word denotes being washed daily at the time of bathing.

A piece of cotton cloth made 44-in. wide and 5 yards long, with a narrow coloured border. Used as a loin cloth by women in India (see Dhootie)

Same as Bhagwa. Actually a small dhootie.

A rather low type of dhootie, made especially for the common coolies in Nagpur, India.

A poor quality plain cloth woven in a low reed and pick from coarse native spun cotton yarn. Used as a dhootie by the poorer classes in India. Usually about 40 ends and 40 picks per inch, 10's or 12's warp and 16's weft.

A loin cloth native woven on hand looms in Burma, and worn by men and women. They are in many designs and qualities and all are about 34-in. to 36-in. wide and 72-in. long. Various names are given to the cloths according to the design. Such as Akwet, Bala, etc.; also see Lungi (1) ———————— The shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 4¹/₂ yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 9¹/₂ yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use.

The shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 4¹/₂ yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 9¹/₂ yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use.

The shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 4¹/₂ yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 9¹/₂ yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use.