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1 Boot-Linings
A plain-weave fabric woven from strong yarns and finished white or colours. One popular quality is made 28-in. wide, 90 X 64 per inch, 20's/16's (twist-way spun). Rather hard spun yams from good quality American cotton. Such cloths as ducks, drills, etc., are also used for boot-linings. -
2 boot-linings
English-Russian dictionary on textile and sewing industry > boot-linings
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3 Jeans
Cotton cloth generally dyed or bleached and used for linings. The weave is the 3-shaft twill, weft face, made in widths 27-in. to 44-in. A good shipping cloth for Egypt, Persia and other markets is 42-in., 52 ends and 88 picks per inch, 36's T., 28's W. If made warp face it is known as a drill and used for children's suitings, corsets, boot linings, etc. A good example of this is 31-in., 100 yards, 81 ends and 62 picks per inch, 18's T., 28's twist-way weft, 281/2-lb. Jeans, Jeanettes, Reversed Jeanettes and Cashmeres (cotton) are all made with the 2 & 1 twill weave, and are very similar. Jeans are the heaviest cloths, Jeanettes and Cashmeres are the same cloth, and when twist-way weft is used the cloth is a Reversed Jeanette. Standard makes of each term are: -
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4 Duck
A heavy cotton cloth used for purposes where great strength is required, such as for sails, boot linings, tent cloths, etc. The original duck was a linen cloth, made from double warp and weft of coarse counts, but nearly all ducks are now made from cotton yarns. Usually woven with double ends and double picks. A light duck is made. This is bleached and used for men's suitings in tropical countries. Ducks are usually named by the weight in ounces per yard - thus a 10-oz. duck cloth weighs 10-oz. per yard. For sailcloths the weave is plain and single-ends, viz., 24-in., 50 ends and 50 picks per inch, 3/30's T., 2/20's W. American makers number the sailcloth duck as follows: - Standard 22-in. No. 1 weighs 18-oz. per running yard. No. 2 weighs 17-oz. per running yard. No. 3 weighs 16-oz. per running yard. For cloths heavier than 18-oz. a cipher is added for each ounce increase, thus: 19-oz. = No. 1/0; 20-oz. = no. 2/0; 25-oz. = no. 7/0, and so on up to 36-02. per running yard of 22-in. cloth is No. 18/0. Any variation in width will weigh in direct proportion.
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5 Grey Drills
All drills came under this term at one time, but gradually the term has come to be applied to the 3-shaft warp face weave 2 up, 1 down, made from heavy yarns, such as 12's to 24's warp and weft. These cloths are used for boot linings, suitings, etc. -
6 Jaganaths
A cotton cloth used for boot linings, and shipped to India and East Africa. The cloth is " firm finished " only. Made plain weave - sized cotton warps and mock grandrelle wefts are used. Two qualities are:
The weft is usually printed brown and white. -
7 Lastings
A very stout twill cloth woven with hard-twisted yarns, generally cotton all through, although wool is sometimes used. It is used chiefly for boot and bag linings when of the twill weave. This style of cloth when figured is used for church furniture. When dyed and of plain weave it is shipped to parts of South America as " Las tings " usually with a stiff glaze finish, and used as trouserings by the natives. Made in various widths and qualities. A popular quality is 24-in., 64 ends and 60 picks per inch, 20's warp, 24's weft. A mixture cloth is made in the five-end satin weave, with 104 ends and 68 picks per inch, 2/50's worsted warp and 16's or 24's cotton weft. The term originally meant a woollen fabric made of combed wool, having two- or three-fold warp and single weft, made 18-in. wide and dyed black.
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