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1 Astrakhan
A soft, curly, strong wool, obtained from a sheep reared in Astrakhan, Persia, and other Asiatic districts. A cloth of silk and worsted, or all worsted, with a long loosely curled pile, and put on the market as an imitation of real astrakhan. Mohair yam is largely used. The worsted fabric is made in widths 56 to 70-in., 48 X 78 picks, two-fold botany warp, about 2 / 56's to 2 / 70's, and the weft four picks single botany and two picks three-fold mohair. The mohair weft yarn is curled before using, which, when cut (similar to velveteen) causes the free ends of the tufts to curl on the face of the cloth. This cut fabric is known as "Polarian". Sometimes the pile is left uncut. A good quality cloth is made 48-in. wide, 48-ends, 150 picks per inch, 2 / 30's cotton warp, one pick 24's cotton weft, and two picks 88's mohair. A knitted fabric is also on the market as an imitation astrakhan. This is the cheapest method, but does not give the same weight or wearing quality. Astrakhan fabrics are made in two ways: - (1) On the weft principle, in which by the shrinking of the ground texture the pile weft is thrown up as a loop; (2) as a warp texture, in which loops are formed by the warp yarn passing over wires. -
2 Astrakhan Wool
This name is given to a grade of Karakul lambskins. The astrakhans are less lustrous, have longer hair and a much more open curl than the first grade of Karakul lambskins, which are Known as Persian lamb. The name is taken from a province of that name bordering on the Caspian Sea, in the S.E. part of European Russia. The name is also applied to woven and knitted imitations of natural astrakhan. Mohair and lustre wool yarns are used to give the lustre. -
3 Angora
ANGORA, or "Mohair"The hair or wool of the goat of that name. More generally known as mohair. The animal originally had its home in Asia Minor. About 1858 it was introduced into Cape Colony, from which country we now get a large supply. The natives of Asia Minor made shawls from the wool, which resembled Cashmere shawls. In colour it is white, average length of hair is 6 to 8 inches, and- has a curly structure. It is a very useful fibre, and largely used by the manufacturers of Astrakhan, wool crepons, plushes and cashmeres; also used in many silk cloths. The French use the fibre in a cloth named "poil de chevre", which has a fine spun silk coloured warp and angora weft. Bradford -imitates this cloth with a fine cotton warp. It has more lustre than wool, but is not so warm. Sir Titus Salt, by introducing the manufacture of goods made from mohair into Saltaire, raised Saltaire into a town from a village. -
4 Aziam
A heavy winter outer-garment in Russia. It is made of coarse grey cotton and wool mixture, and often lined with sheepskin or astrakhan. -
5 Boucle
An imitation astrakhan or cloth having knots, loops or curls on the surface. The illustration gives an example of the cloth 64-in., 19 X 16 per inch, 2's/8's worsted corkscrew warp, 41/2 drams per yard, woollen weft, 54-in. finished. The name is French for buckled. The term is rather loosely applied to all fabrics having curls, knots or loops on the surface
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6 Broad Tail
The grade of Karakul lambskin lower than astrakhan, is known as broad tail. Broad-tail skins are taken from lambs prematurely born." Their hair is shorter than that on Persian lambskins, and instead of being tightly curled, it is swirled, and exhibits a very attractive wavy pattern. Woven fabrics manufactured to imitate the broad-tail effect are usually called karacul or carcuel in the trade. -
7 Caracules
A variety of astrakhan cloth. -
8 Karakul Cloth
A coating fabric made to imitate Persian lambskin in 48-in. and 50-in. width. It is a fine astrakhan. All-wool yarns are used. -
9 Mohair
The hair obtained from the Angora goat, and is grown chiefly in Turkey, South Africa, the U.S.A. and Australia. It is lustrous white, fine, wavy and long. The length varies from 4-in. to 10-in. and spins from 28's to 50's quality. It has no felting properties. That from the U.S.A. is much lower in quality than the others, having about 15 per cent more kempy fibre. Mohair is chiefly used in braids, felt hats, linings, plushes, etc., and the coarser kinds for carpets and low-grade woollen fabrics. ————————ANGORA, or "Mohair"The hair or wool of the goat of that name. More generally known as mohair. The animal originally had its home in Asia Minor. About 1858 it was introduced into Cape Colony, from which country we now get a large supply. The natives of Asia Minor made shawls from the wool, which resembled Cashmere shawls. In colour it is white, average length of hair is 6 to 8 inches, and- has a curly structure. It is a very useful fibre, and largely used by the manufacturers of Astrakhan, wool crepons, plushes and cashmeres; also used in many silk cloths. The French use the fibre in a cloth named "poil de chevre", which has a fine spun silk coloured warp and angora weft. Bradford -imitates this cloth with a fine cotton warp. It has more lustre than wool, but is not so warm. Sir Titus Salt, by introducing the manufacture of goods made from mohair into Saltaire, raised Saltaire into a town from a village. -
10 Montagnac Cloth
A curly woollen fabric with an astrakhan-like pile. It is very soft, warm and durable. It is produced in France and was first discovered in 1864. The inventor. Baron de Montagnac, discovered how to produce the material by accident - simply by soaking the cloth from the loom in water, then beating it with a heavy cane, he obtained the peculiar curly pile. The cloth is now manufactured on a large scale. Imitation Montagnac cloth is made 72-in. wide, 28 ends and 50 picks per inch, weight 29-02. per yard, from 13/4 run warp and weft. The weave is on 6 ends and 12 picks.
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11 Polarin
См. также в других словарях:
ASTRAKHAN — ASTRAKHAN, Volga port, capital of Astrakhan district, Russia. The Jewish Statute of 1804 (see russia ) included the province (gubernia) of Astrakhan in the pale of settlement . However, in 1825 Jewish settlement in this government was prohibited … Encyclopedia of Judaism
ASTRAKHAN — ASTRAKHA S’étendant sur les deux rives du bras principal de la Volga, à une centaine de kilomètres de la mer Caspienne, Astrakhan, chef lieu de la région administrative de la Fédération de Russie du même nom, comptait déjà 113 000 habitants en… … Encyclopédie Universelle
Astrakhan — As tra*khan , a. Of or pertaining to Astrakhan in Russia or its products; made of an Astrakhan skin. n. The skin of stillborn or young lambs of that region, the curled wool of which resembles fur. [1913 Webster] … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
astrakhan — cloth or astrakhan wool of the type originally clipped from sheep native to Astrakhan on the Caspian in the delta of the Volga … Eponyms, nicknames, and geographical games
astrakhan — ► NOUN ▪ the dark curly fleece of young karakul lambs from central Asia. ORIGIN named after the city of Astrakhan in Russia … English terms dictionary
astrakhan — [as′trə kən] n. 1. a loosely curled fur, a kind of karakul, made from the pelt of very young lambs originally bred near Astrakhan 2. a wool fabric with a pile cut and curled to look like this … English World dictionary
Astrakhan — Astrakhan, so v.w. Astrachan … Pierer's Universal-Lexikon
Astrakhan — [as′trə kan΄; ] Russ [ äs΄trə khän′y ] city & port in SW Russia, on the Volga River delta near the Caspian Sea: pop. 512,000 … English World dictionary
Astrakhan — Pour les articles homonymes, voir Astrakan. Astrakhan Астрахань … Wikipédia en Français
Astrakhan — Infobox Russian city EnglishName=Astrakhan RussianName=Астрахань Skyline=Astrakhan panoramaofcenter.jpg Skyline LatDeg=46 LatMin=21 LatSec LonDeg=48 LonMin=03 LonSec Locator LocatorMap CityDay= FederalSubject=Astrakhan Oblast MunStatus=Urban… … Wikipedia
astrakhan — /as treuh keuhn, kan /, n. 1. a fur of young lambs, with lustrous, closely curled wool, from Astrakhan. 2. Also called astrakhan cloth. a fabric with curled pile resembling astrakhan fur. Also, astrachan. [1760 70] * * * City (pop., 2001 est.:… … Universalium
