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1 velvets
сущ.текст. вельвет, вельветин -
2 velvets
вельвет -
3 velvēts
сводчатый -
4 velvets
tekst., n. вельвет (Окончания: \velvetsа)LKLv59▪ Termini▪ EuroTermBank terminiĀdTekstru вельветTehnru вельветETB▪ Skaidrojumilv Izcelsme - angļu velvet ‘samts’lv Kokvilnas audums, kam labās puses virsma garenvirzienā ir rievotaJum99▪ Sinonīmilietv. plīšsT09 -
5 velvēts
arh., a. сводчатый (Окончания: \velvētsая, \velvētsое; сводчат, \velvētsа, \velvētsо)LKLv59▪ Terminiru сводчатый celtn.Kai98▪ EuroTermBank terminiMašB, BūVPru сводчатыйETB▪ Sinonīmispraišļains; spraišļots; spriešļainsT09 -
6 velvēts
сводчатый; velvētsi griesti сводчатый потолок -
7 Common Velvets
COMMON VELVETS, or SLIPSSee Velvets. ————————SLIPS, or COMMON VELVETSIn this type of velvet only every alternate float is cut. The cutting is done on the -" long-run " frames and generally in pairs: that is the cutter has a piece of the velvet cloth stretched on a frame on either side and cuts one while walking in one direction and cuts the other on the return. -
8 Patent Velvets
A weft pile velvet cloth made in a cord weave. When cut and finished a round cord effect is prominent. -
9 Saxony Velvets
These are long pile " velvet " carpets. The pile varies from 1/4-in. to 9/16-in. in depth and the pile is 2/3/8's or 2/3/10's worsted yarn, with 9 pile wires per inch. They are 5-frame structures and are carpets of superior softness with great wearing durability. -
10 corduroy
velvets -
11 Velvet
Originally velvet was a fabric made with a short dense pile woven from silk warp. Now the term is applied to fabrics made partly of silk or rayon, and partly of other materials, and to fabrics made entirely of other yarns, besides being indiscriminately confused with velveteen, which is a weft pile texture. There is a constructional difference between warp and weft pile textures. In warp pile velvets the length of the pile is determined by the size of the pile wire, or in other ways, and the pile is cut in the loom. Many velvets are woven double, face-to-face, and cut apart while on the loom. In weft pile velvets the length of pile- is determined by the length of the pile weft floats, and the pile is cut in a supplementary operation after the cloth has left the loom. The distinguishing feature of velvet is a succession of rows of short cut tufts of fibres standing so close together as to present a uniform surface with a rich appearance and entrancing softness to the touch. The quality of velvets is determined by the closeness of the pile tufts and the manner in which they are bound to the ground texture. Various weaves are used according to the weight of fabrics, yarns used, and density of pile desired. The binding of the tufts usually follows one or two systems, either single tufts which are held by only one binding pick, as shown at S, or fast pile tufts which are interwoven with three weft picks as shown at W.
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12 vaulted
1) ((of a roof or ceiling) arched.) velvēts; velvju-2) ((of a building etc) having an arched roof or ceiling.) velvēts* * *velvēts -
13 Slips
COMMON VELVETS, or SLIPSSee Velvets. ————————SLIPS, or COMMON VELVETSIn this type of velvet only every alternate float is cut. The cutting is done on the -" long-run " frames and generally in pairs: that is the cutter has a piece of the velvet cloth stretched on a frame on either side and cuts one while walking in one direction and cuts the other on the return. ———————— Plain skirts for wearing under thin dress materials as grenadine, muslin, net, etc. Small skeins of raw silk formed for ease in winding. -
14 вельвет
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15 arched
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16 Corduroy
A term that is commonly known as 2 & 2 rib, or two ribs alternating on face and back of children's stockings. ———————— A strong cotton cloth used for suitings. It is cut pile fabric, and has hard-wearing qualities. The weave has a cord or rib surface with either round or flat tops, with pile formed by the weft. When woven with a twill back it is known as a " Genoa back," and when a plain back is used it is termed " tabby back " corduroy. Fabrics of this class are woven in the same way as velvets, except that the pile picks are bound by the warp so as to form straight lines of floats; thus producing a ribbed surface. After weaving, the material undergoes (before cutting) the same stiffening and liming process as velvets. Corduroys are made in many varieties, known as fine reed, eight shafts, thicksets, constitutions, cables, etc. (see Constitutionals). The illustration shows a corduroy design, wherein crosses show ground weaves and filled squares the pile picks. An illustration is given of the cloth with the pile cut. The ribs may vary from 12 to 1 per inch
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17 Gaufre
A French term for embossed velvets Gauffreing is now the term applied to the embossing of design on velvets, ribbons and trimmings. The plain material is passed between the nip of a suitably engraved hollow steel roller heated by gas or electricity and a paper roller. The engraved roller is pressed into the paper roller by screws and both are revolved until the surface of the paper roller has received the raised pattern in low relief. The material impregnated with the finishing substance is fed between these rollers and the heated roller embosses the pattern into the surface of the fabric. The pattern is not permanent and wetting will remove it. -
18 Pile
The yarn which forms the face of fabrics such as velvets, velveteens, terry, etc. There are several varieties, viz., warp pile, weft pile, and knotted pile, and cut, loop or curl pile. Warp Pile is formed by an extra warp additional to and much longer than the ground warp. The pile threads are woven over wires which, when removed, leave loops either uncut or cut. This system is used for wool and silk velvets and many carpets, rugs, etc. Terry fabrics have looped pile formed by weaving without wires. Weft Pile is formed by weft floats which are cut after the cloth is woven to make the pile as seen in velveteens, corduroys, etc. Knotted Pile is made by hand by knotting short lengths of yarn to the warp threads. Design is formed by using pile threads of different colours. After the rug or carpet is woven the pile is trimmed to a uniform length. Curl Pile is produced by weaving two kinds of yarn in the same cloth, a non-shrinking yarn being floated loosely on the surface while a yarn that shrinks readily is interwoven closely. When the cloth is shrunk the unshrinking yarn forms curls on the surface, as in astrakhans. -
19 Velvet, Figured
VELVET, FIGUREDThere are many ways of producing figured velvets, the outstanding examples being the handsome textures embodying designs made by weaving three and two heights of pile. The cheapest methods arc by embossing and shearing. In other figured velvets some parts of the cloth are left devoid of pile and in this style the design stands out in very striking relief. When the ground is semi-transparent the effects in dress fabrics are excellent. -
20 Lister, Samuel Cunliffe, 1st Baron Masham
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]b. 1 January 1815 Calverly Hall, Bradford, Englandd. 2 February 1906 Swinton Park, near Bradford, England[br]English inventor of successful wool-combing and waste-silk spinning machines.[br]Lister was descended from one of the old Yorkshire families, the Cunliffe Listers of Manningham, and was the fourth son of his father Ellis. After attending a school on Clapham Common, Lister would not go to university; his family hoped he would enter the Church, but instead he started work with the Liverpool merchants Sands, Turner \& Co., who frequently sent him to America. In 1837 his father built for him and his brother a worsted mill at Manningham, where Samuel invented a swivel shuttle and a machine for making fringes on shawls. It was here that he first became aware of the unhealthy occupation of combing wool by hand. Four years later, after seeing the machine that G.E. Donisthorpe was trying to work out, he turned his attention to mechanizing wool-combing. Lister took Donisthorpe into partnership after paying him £12,000 for his patent, and developed the Lister-Cartwright "square nip" comber. Until this time, combing machines were little different from Cartwright's original, but Lister was able to improve on this with continuous operation and by 1843 was combing the first fine botany wool that had ever been combed by machinery. In the following year he received an order for fifty machines to comb all qualities of wool. Further combing patents were taken out with Donisthorpe in 1849, 1850, 1851 and 1852, the last two being in Lister's name only. One of the important features of these patents was the provision of a gripping device or "nip" which held the wool fibres at one end while the rest of the tuft was being combed. Lister was soon running nine combing mills. In the 1850s Lister had become involved in disputes with others who held combing patents, such as his associate Isaac Holden and the Frenchman Josué Heilmann. Lister bought up the Heilmann machine patents and afterwards other types until he obtained a complete monopoly of combing machines before the patents expired. His invention stimulated demand for wool by cheapening the product and gave a vital boost to the Australian wool trade. By 1856 he was at the head of a wool-combing business such as had never been seen before, with mills at Manningham, Bradford, Halifax, Keighley and other places in the West Riding, as well as abroad.His inventive genius also extended to other fields. In 1848 he patented automatic compressed air brakes for railways, and in 1853 alone he took out twelve patents for various textile machines. He then tried to spin waste silk and made a second commercial career, turning what was called "chassum" and hitherto regarded as refuse into beautiful velvets, silks, plush and other fine materials. Waste silk consisted of cocoon remnants from the reeling process, damaged cocoons and fibres rejected from other processes. There was also wild silk obtained from uncultivated worms. This is what Lister saw in a London warehouse as a mass of knotty, dirty, impure stuff, full of bits of stick and dead mulberry leaves, which he bought for a halfpenny a pound. He spent ten years trying to solve the problems, but after a loss of £250,000 and desertion by his partner his machine caught on in 1865 and brought Lister another fortune. Having failed to comb this waste silk, Lister turned his attention to the idea of "dressing" it and separating the qualities automatically. He patented a machine in 1877 that gave a graduated combing. To weave his new silk, he imported from Spain to Bradford, together with its inventor Jose Reixach, a velvet loom that was still giving trouble. It wove two fabrics face to face, but the problem lay in separating the layers so that the pile remained regular in length. Eventually Lister was inspired by watching a scissors grinder in the street to use small emery wheels to sharpen the cutters that divided the layers of fabric. Lister took out several patents for this loom in his own name in 1868 and 1869, while in 1871 he took out one jointly with Reixach. It is said that he spent £29,000 over an eleven-year period on this loom, but this was more than recouped from the sale of reasonably priced high-quality velvets and plushes once success was achieved. Manningham mills were greatly enlarged to accommodate this new manufacture.In later years Lister had an annual profit from his mills of £250,000, much of which was presented to Bradford city in gifts such as Lister Park, the original home of the Listers. He was connected with the Bradford Chamber of Commerce for many years and held the position of President of the Fair Trade League for some time. In 1887 he became High Sheriff of Yorkshire, and in 1891 he was made 1st Baron Masham. He was also Deputy Lieutenant in North and West Riding.[br]Principal Honours and DistinctionsCreated 1st Baron Masham 1891.Bibliography1849, with G.E.Donisthorpe, British patent no. 12,712. 1850, with G.E. Donisthorpe, British patent no. 13,009. 1851, British patent no. 13,532.1852, British patent no. 14,135.1877, British patent no. 3,600 (combing machine). 1868, British patent no. 470.1868, British patent no. 2,386.1868, British patent no. 2,429.1868, British patent no. 3,669.1868, British patent no. 1,549.1871, with J.Reixach, British patent no. 1,117. 1905, Lord Masham's Inventions (autobiography).Further ReadingJ.Hogg (ed.), c. 1888, Fortunes Made in Business, London (biography).W.English, 1969, The Textile Industry, London; and C.Singer (ed.), 1958, A History of Technology, Vol. IV, Oxford: Clarendon Press (both cover the technical details of Lister's invention).RLHBiographical history of technology > Lister, Samuel Cunliffe, 1st Baron Masham
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