yarns/en

Пряжи

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(See knitting). All yarns used for knitting are termed hosiery yarns in Leicester, but in America only yarns actually used for knitted footwear come under this term. These yarns are much softer than required for weaving. Miscellaneous Yarns - Goat wools, such as llama and alpaca are employed in spinning. yarns for the knitting trade. Vicuna and camel yarns are used to a limited extent. Ramie yarn is specially employed for knitting gas mantle fabrics. Soft spun flax yams have been used for making underwear fabric. Chenille and other manufactured threads are used to a small extent in warp knitting. Composite yarns, such as union yarns - spun from a mixture of wool and cotton fibres; cordon yarns - cotton and worsted singles, doubled together; wool and rayon or spun silk, cotton and rayon or spun silk are largely used to produce self or two-colour effects. Fancy yarns, such as slub yams, voiles, and curled and loop yarns are also employed. Hosiery Yarns (Cotton) include condenser, hosiery, condenser lisle thread, mercerised and sewing cottons. Condenser yarns are spun in coarse counts from low-grade cotton, Indian and American. They are carded, condensed and mule spun, and possess little twist. Hosiery cotton yarns vary considerably in counts and qualities, practically all varieties of Indian, American and Egyptian being used in varying proportions to obtain suitable mixture for quality and price. Cheaper yarns are carded and mule spun. American and Egyptian cotton yarns are combed mainly with the object of removing seed particles. High-class Egyptian and Sea Islands cotton yarns are super-combed. The chief features of a hosiery cotton yam should be: (1) Regularity; (2) cleanliness; (3) fullness. Regularity prevents the making of cloudy fabric, showing thick and thin places. Cleanliness is essential, as the seed particles clog the eyelet hole in the yam guides and cause breakages. Fullness is desirable to cover the loop interstices. Elasticity and pliability are quite as essential as tensile strength. Yams are usually soft spun and if two-fold soft doubled, average twists in two-fold being 2/10's 6¹/₂T., 2/20's 8¹/₂T., 2/30's 10T., 2/40's 16T., 2/80's 20T. Softer twist less 25 to 30 per cent of average (T= turns per inch). Lisle thread is a comparatively hard-twisted and doubly-gassed thread in which there are no projecting fibres. It is always of a two-fold character, and the doubling twist varies from 24 to 34 turns per inch in 2/60's. It is used largely in the manufacture of ladies' hose tops and feet and for lace hosiery. Mercerised yams are used largely in the fancy trade, a comparatively soft twist again being employed. Sewing cottons for seaming, linking and making-up are specially prepared in two to six cord open and reverse twist. Woollen and Worsted Yarns include lamb's wool, wheeling, skein yarns, gala yams (woollens), worsted, crossbreds, fingering, cashmere, dry spun botany (see under each name). Worsted and crossbred yarns of various qualities are used. These yams are spun softly with " hosiery twist." The drawing may be open, cone or French, and the spinning may take place on cap, ring or flyer frames. The chief essentials of hosiery yarn are softness of fibre, fullness, minimum of twist consistent with the requisite tensile strength, regularity, pliability and elasticity. Cashmere Yarns, as used in the knitted goods industry, are spun from short, loose and weak wools as well as from better qualities by French drawing and mule spinning. A small proportion of real cashmere is used for outer garments. In recent years nylon yarns have been largely employed.

Silk yarns are composed of a number of silk filaments twisted together, usually 8 to 12 to form a thread. The filaments have a natural coating of gum which gives strength and elasticity, but reduces lustre. The gum must be boiled off if lustre is wanted, which may be done either in the yarn state or when woven in cloth. Silk yarns are divided into two classes, " thrown silk" and " spun silk," the first being yarns that are made by the processes of reeling and throwing, and the second consisting of yarns spun from waste silk. Thrown Silk, or Net Silk comprises organzine and tram yarns, organzine being made from the most perfect cocoons and used for warps. Tram is made from the inferior cocoons and used as weft. All silk contains a proportion of natural gum, and the amount of gum removed give rise to the following terms: - Boiled-off Silk - Yarn which has had all the gum removed, and has the highest sheen (see Boiled-off). Hard Silk - Yarn that has not undergone any boiling-off process. Ecru Silk - Yarn boiled to remove about 3 per cent to 5 per cent of the gum by light washing in lukewarm water. Souple Silk - Yarn boiled to remove about one-sixth of the gum. Bengal Silk - See Bengal Silk. Berlin Silk - A silk yarn made for fancy hand work. It is produced by doubling from 4 to 8 twisted singles grege by a right-hand twist; then again doubling three of these with a left-hand twist. The thread is very round, smooth, and hard, also known as cordon-net. Blond Silk - A special silk yarn made by doubling three grege threads left-hand twist, then doubling three of these together with right-hand twist. Brights - Silk which has been entirely de-gummed in the skein and then dyed. Bourette, Bourrette Yarn - A low grade of silk yarn made from the waste produced by schappe spinning. Canton Silk - See Canton Silk. Chiffon Twist - Single raw silk threads, 50 or more turns per inch. Used for chiffons, crepe-de-chines, etc. Crepe-de-Chine - Hard twist tram silk, about 40 to 70 turns per inch. Made from 3 to 5 raw silk ends. Usually woven as weft. Crepe Georgette - Hard twist raw silk usually made from two threads 13/15 deniers, 50 or more turns, both right and left twist, used for crepe georgettes as warp and weft. Crepe Twist - This is tram silk hard twisted, having from 30 to 100 turns per inch. Used for making fabrics of a crepe character both all silk and mixtures. Cordonnet Silk - See Berlin Silk; also under Cordonnet. Eri Silk - A raw silk obtained from the wild silkworm " Attacus ricini." Flock Silk - A general term used to indicate silk yarns made from the outer uneven parts of the cocoon. Floss Silk - Used principally for embroidery purposes. It is a thrown silk and made by doubling two thick raw singles with right-hand twist together with a left-hand twist. Galette Silk - A coarse silk yarn made from waste. Grenadine Silk - Organzine silk with a large number of turns per inch. Jaspe Silk - Silk warps printed in the hank. Ombre Silk - Skein dyed yarn in a gradation of shades, which run in sequence of depth of colour, varying from five up to forty shades. Schappe Silk - A spun silk yarn which is made from silk degummed by the maceration process used on the Continent (see Schappe Silk). Soie Ondee - See Soie Ondee. Silk Yarns - In addition to the foregoing yarns see under the following terms for further silk yarns: - Cable, Cevennes, Chappe, Chine, Clochepeid, Crocheting, Crue (see Ecru), Cuite Cusier, Cusirino, Degummed, Docken, Doup-pion. Ecru, Embroidery, Etschingo, Filature, Filature a 1'Europeune, Filet, Florette, Fringe, Goffered, Grege, Gum Hainin, Hard, Kahing, Knitting, Lousy, Marabout, Maybasch, Melange, Mele, Mi-cuit, Minchcw, Nett, Noil, Organzine, Ouvrees, Oval, Pearlina, Pel, Pelo, Poie, Pure dye Silk, Raw (see Grege), Re-reels, Retorse, Senegal, Sewing, Simonita, Soft Singles, Soie Ondee, Souple, Spun, Steeped, Strafilato, Stumba, Thrown, Tors San File, Tram, Tramette, Tsatlees, Tussah, Twist, Washed, Zaguri.

Ordinary cotton yarn has a fairly large amount of short fibre on its surface. It is the object of gassing to burn off the projecting fibres by passing the yarn several times through a gas flame or over an electrically-heated surface. Many single yams are gassed and two-fold yarns are thus treated when required for voiles, poplins, Venetians, etc. Yarns for mixing with silk yarn for lace singles, and double spun work, embroidery yarns from 2/6's upwards, yarns for mercerising, etc., are all gassed. The process renders the yarn darker in colour, and there is a loss of weight in gassing yarn which depends on the proportion of fibre burnt off. The loss varies from 5 per cent to 10 per cent, so the doubler uses 36's single for 2/40's, 54's for 2/60's, and 72's for 2/80's yarns.

A term to distinguish the worsted yarns made from wool grown in the South of England, and the finest of which is Southdown. The yarns are strong, but rather short in staple, and used for Meltons billiard cloth. West of England cloth, etc. Counts vary from 4/12's to 4/24's and up to 2/24's. Such down wools as those from Norfolk, Sussex, Oxford and Shropshire are chiefly used for hosiery yarns for hard-knitting, fingering and for crewel yarns.

See Effect Yarn. ———————— (See Yarns). In addition to fancy coloured yarns there are varieties of specially spun or twisted yarns. See under the following terms: - Bead, Boucle, Bourette, Cable, Chenille, Cloud, Corkscrew, Crape, Curl, Diamond or Chain, Gassed, Genapped, Gimp, Grandrelle, Knickerbocker, Knop, Loop, Marl, Mottle, Permo, Reany, Ruffle Wool, Slub, Snarl, Spiral, Spot, Twist-on-Twist.

The range of cotton knitting yarns is from 1's to 70's or their equivalent in doubled yarns. The usual grades are " Standard," " Soft Twisted," " Lisle Yarn," and " Hard Lisle." The table following may be taken as a quick guide to these yarns: - Also see Hosiery Yarns.

By this term is meant the redoubling of doubled threads. In a six-cord yarn three two-fold threads will be doubled or cabled together. The six-cord yarn could be made by using six single threads, but the resulting cabled yarn would not be as satisfactory as when two-fold threads are used. The cabled method gives a stronger, smoother and more regular yarn. Cabled yarns are used for the motor tyre trade. For tyre yarns the first doubling is usually five threads, doubled, with the twist in the same direction as the singles, then three threads of these five fold yarns are doubled together with the twist in the opposite direction.

Lambswool yarns are short staple yarns, spun from a mixture of waste and low-grade wools. The waste is opened, carded, condensed, and mule spun. A large proportion of oil is necessary in carding. The count basis is 176 yards per lb. for 1's in the grease. The term gauge is invariably used for numbering, thus 18 gauge lambswool, written 18G, represents a yarn having 176 X 18 yards per lb. in oil. The equivalent Bradford worsted count is lambs-wool gauge number: 3.18. Lambswool yarns are used for the making of coarse underwear, half-hose, and gloves, which are subsequently milled to obtain a soft feel and full appearance.

These are spun from the raw material obtained from the Alpaca goat. The natural colours are white, reddish-brown and black. The fine yarns are 2/40's and 2/36's and medium yarns from 1/28's and heavier (see Alpaca Wool)

All yarns intended to be used white or dyed in colours are bleached. The process reduces the weight. Cotton yarn loses fully 5 per cent and linen 20 per cent when fully bleached. There are four degrees of bleaching linen yarns - quarter-bleach, half white or cream, three-quarter and full white.

Super woollen yarns, made on the worsted principle, from high-class wools known as merinos. Wools are graded from 28's to 100's and the qualities above 60's are the merinos. They are full, soft and durable, and used for the best suitings and dress goods. The term botany is only applied to those yarns which are of 60's quality or over.