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41 Melton
A heavy smooth cloth, made all wool or from cotton warp and wool weft. Woven 76-in. to So-in, to finish 50-in. to 56-in. wide, and about 24-oz. per yard. The cloth is raised and cropped and very heavily milled. The 2 & 2 twill is used, especially in the all-wool styles. Meltons, kerseys and tweeds for coatings and uniforms are very similar in appearance when finished. Fig. A gives a popular design on 4-shafts and 8 picks, made 82-in. wide to finish when milled and dyed 58-in. wide, wool yarns 28 yards per dram warp and 22 yards weft. The warp is openband (twist to the left) and the weft crossband (twist to the right) and soft spun. Reed 4 in a dent 52-ends per inch, 80 picks per inch, weight 32-oz. per yard. Design B gives a cheap style of Melton in which cotton warp and mungo weft is used. Made 80-in. to finish 54-in., 52 ends and 52 picks per inch, 2/40's Egyptian cotton warp, 7 yards per dram mungo weft. This cloth costs about 60 per cent less than the above.
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42 Patadeones
Another name for Sarongs given to the cloth when shipped to the Philippines. Made in stripes and checks, and when finished cut into 6 yard ends. -
43 memory leak
A condition that occurs when an application allocates memory for use but does not free allocated memory when finished. -
44 Blanket
Plain or twill weave cotton cloths, 60-in. and upwards in width and 80-in, and upwards in length. Made from coarse yams. Very coarse reeds are used. A soft spun coarse weft from 1's to 8's count is usual; sometimes a " bump " yam weft. Special shuttles are required to take the large or " jumbo " cops. Coloured weft headings are put in at each end. The fabrics are raised on both sides by passing several times through the raising machine. ———————— Thomas Blanket, of Bristol, first produced these in the reign of Edward III. The most popular makes are: - Irish - Size 84-in. X 95-in. in a 5-lb. weight. Yorkshire - 80-in. X 100-in, in all weights, woven plain, and have a dense pile when finished. Witney - This term can only be applied to blankets made in Witney. They resemble Yorkshire blankets. Ayrshire - Woven 2 X 2 twill with a dark-blue border. Bath (or Cheviot) - Woven 2 X 2 twill with light-blue borders and heavily raised. These fabrics are all manufactured from wool yams with a soft weft, heavily milled. Each style may be bordered or all plain. The qualities are numerous and weights vary from about 2-lb. up to 7-lb. or 8-lb. per blanket. -
45 Bratos
A woollen fabric made in Norwich in the 17th century. It was of a loose open weave and when finished had the appearance of knit work. -
46 Charmeuse Georgette Broche
A brocaded silk dress material having figures on a plain ground. Grege Warp and soft, silk crepe weft. When finished a slight rib effect is given.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Charmeuse Georgette Broche
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47 Cretonne
A printed cotton cloth, 30's to 40's warp, 6's to 10's condenser weft, plain or twill weave. Printed in bold patterns, the fabric being covered with pattern. Used for curtains and furniture cloths. Widths up to 50-in. Satin and oatmeal weaves are sometimes used, but most cretonnes are woven plain or 2 & 2 twill. Indian cretonnes are usually 42-in. wide when finished, 48 ends and 32 picks per inch, 36's T., 8's W. A better quality for furniture is made 42-in. wide, 84 ends and 40 picks per inch, 2/50's T., 14's W. In this cloth the warp is printed before weaving. A cloth printed on both sides is popular and usually woven with an oatmeal ground as illustrated herewith. The cloth is reversible and used for curtains. The quality is about 48 ends and 32 picks per inch, 30's T., 8's W.
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48 Discharge Prints
These are fabrics that are first dyed in a solid colour, such as blue, dried without fixing the colour, then passed through a printing machine and printed with a chemical substance which acting upon the dye discharges or clears it from the fabric. When finished the cloth will have white figuring on a blue ground. -
49 Estamenes
A 2 & 2 twill worsted cloth, loosely woven from rough yarns. The cloth, when finished, has a fuzzy fibrous appearance, due to the " napping " of the fibres during the process of milling. Made to imitate the French cloth " estame," which is a knitted worsted. One weave is made with 56 ends and 56 picks per inch from 2/36's worsted warp and weft. A cheaper cloth is made 56 ends and 56 picks per inch of 2/36's warp, 20's weft, all worsted. The cloth is also known as Tammy. -
50 Gloria Cloth
GLORIA CLOTH, GLORIA SILKA half-silk fabric, silk warp and cotton or woollen weft, plain weave. Originally used for dusters, but now made for umbrella cloths. Requires very careful weaving since faults are plainly shown when finished. A cotton Gloria is woven in 3 & 1 twill from super Egyptian yarns, such as 36's warp, 34's weft, 80 ends and 90 picks per inch. For this cloth the weft is rewound to ensure regular weaving. -
51 Gloria Silk
GLORIA CLOTH, GLORIA SILKA half-silk fabric, silk warp and cotton or woollen weft, plain weave. Originally used for dusters, but now made for umbrella cloths. Requires very careful weaving since faults are plainly shown when finished. A cotton Gloria is woven in 3 & 1 twill from super Egyptian yarns, such as 36's warp, 34's weft, 80 ends and 90 picks per inch. For this cloth the weft is rewound to ensure regular weaving. -
52 Mohlaine
See Permo. ————————PERMO, or MOHLAINE, or RESILDAA dress fabric made from single mohair yarns twisted with cotton yarn to give strength. After weaving into cloth the cotton is removed by carbonising. The structure is open when finished. -
53 Momie Cloth
A dress fabric made from a cotton warp and wool weft in plain weave. When finished it resembles a crepe. Originally silk warp was used and was always dyed black. This term is also given to granite weave fabric. -
54 Naps
An all-wool overcoating made 72-in. wide in the loom to finish 58-in. Woven with indigo dyed yarns about 36 ends and 48 picks per inch. Good quality felting yarns are used and when finished the weave is not visible. During finishing the surface of the cloth is rubbed into small knots. Naps are very similar to Witneys, Waverleys, etc. Typical cloths are made as follow: - Union Nap - Warp 2/40's cotton, 60 ends and 48 picks per inch. Face weft 110 yards per oz. openband mungo, back weft 54 yards per oz. openband shoddy, weight 26-oz. per yard. All Wool - Warp 250 yards per oz. cross-band woollen weft 310 yards per oz. openband woollen, 56 ends and 104 picks per inch. R gives the weave for Reversible Witney, N for Nap and Sardinian, and W for Waverley. NAP WARP - An old time name for pile warp.
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55 Pashmina Tweed
A fabric made in Kashmir of hand-spun pashmina wool and woven on hand looms. Made 62-in. wide to finish 56-in. About 50 ends and 48 picks per inch, 2/34's worsted warp and 2/28's worsted weft, 7 ozs. per square yard, in 2 & 2 twill weave, 70 yards cloth gives 65 yards when finished. Also made in checks. Used for light tropical garments. -
56 Permo
PERMO, or MOHLAINE, or RESILDAA dress fabric made from single mohair yarns twisted with cotton yarn to give strength. After weaving into cloth the cotton is removed by carbonising. The structure is open when finished. -
57 Resilda
PERMO, or MOHLAINE, or RESILDAA dress fabric made from single mohair yarns twisted with cotton yarn to give strength. After weaving into cloth the cotton is removed by carbonising. The structure is open when finished. ———————— See Permo. -
58 Plisse Crepe
A plain weave cotton cloth made from fine yarns, about 50's to 70's warp and weft, from 29-in. widths. Printed with caustic soda preparations and during finishing the printed parts shrink and form designs of crinkle effects. The term is also applied to a plain weave cloth, woven with one-way hard spun weft which causes the fabric to crinkle when finished. -
59 Radia
A Lyons-made silk cloth in plain weave, 43/44-in. wide, printed or dyed. When finished it has a high lustre and is soft in handle. -
60 Ramage
The French word for flowers and also denotes a brocaded dress goods fabric, made with silk warp and wool weft. One quality is made 100 ends and 72 picks per inch, 100 denier silk warp, and 64's worsted weft, in large floral designs. When finished a crepe effect is obtained.
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