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61 Lock Stitch
A special sewing machine stitch by which the lower thread is interlaced with the upper and rendered fast. -
62 Longyi
A loin cloth native woven on hand looms in Burma, and worn by men and women. They are in many designs and qualities and all are about 34-in. to 36-in. wide and 72-in. long. Various names are given to the cloths according to the design. Such as Akwet, Bala, etc.; also see Lungi (1) ————————LOONGEES, LOONGHEES, LOONGYES, LOONGIES, LUNGIS, LONGYIThe shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 41/2 yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 91/2 yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use. -
63 Loongees
LOONGEES, LOONGHEES, LOONGYES, LOONGIES, LUNGIS, LONGYIThe shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 41/2 yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 91/2 yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use. -
64 Loonghees
LOONGEES, LOONGHEES, LOONGYES, LOONGIES, LUNGIS, LONGYIThe shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 41/2 yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 91/2 yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use. -
65 Loongyes
LOONGEES, LOONGHEES, LOONGYES, LOONGIES, LUNGIS, LONGYIThe shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 41/2 yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 91/2 yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use. -
66 Loongies
LOONGEES, LOONGHEES, LOONGYES, LOONGIES, LUNGIS, LONGYIThe shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 41/2 yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 91/2 yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use. -
67 Lungis
LOONGEES, LOONGHEES, LOONGYES, LOONGIES, LUNGIS, LONGYIThe shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 41/2 yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 91/2 yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use. -
68 Nylon
Nylon was first made in the laboratories of E.I. du Pont de Nemours, of Wilmington, Delaware, U.S.A., under the direction of the late Dr. W. H. Carothers as a result of researches started 1928. In October, 1938, it -was announced to the world that a new form of textile fibre had been made by man, and that " nylon " was to be its name. Nylon stockings were on sale to the general public in U.S.A. on May 15, 1940, and many other items of wearing apparel were shown at the New York Pair that summer. In Great Britain, plans made jointly before the war by Courtaulds and Imperial Chemical Industries were responsible for production being started in 1941 by British Nylon Spinners Limited. The " 66 " polymer (each molecule of these reagents contains 6 carbon atoms and hence the name or designation " 66 ") was first made in 1935. Nylon is a name, not for a single material, but for a whole class or family of entirely new materials. There are many nylons and there may be many more. Nylon is the generic or family name for them all, just as glass and coal are names of classes of substances. Nylon, in the general sense, is a man-made material having a chemical composition akin to proteins, of which silk, hair and wool are examples, although nylon has not an exact counterpart in nature. It is not an " artificial " product, nor a man-made copy of a natural material. It can be made up into powders, sheets, solutions, strands or yarns, each with special properties according to requirements. The " 66 " polymer, from which yam is made, was synthesised in 1933, although not announced to the world until October, 1938. The raw material from which the diamine and acid for making " 66 " polymer are obtained are phenol from coal, oxygen and nitrogen from the air, and hydrogen from water. Particularly suitable where high elasticity is required. Uses include parachute fabrics, tyre cords, glider tow ropes, shoe laces webbing, braid, tape and thread, fully-fashioned hosiery, seamless hosiery, underwear fabrics, lace, nets, dress fabrics, marquisettes, neckties, transparent velvet, coated fabrics for raincoats and food covers. Industrial uses include shoe fabrics, sash cords, window screens, filters and bolting fabrics, also slip covers, motor car upholstery, shirtings, tents and shower curtains. -
69 Point
The French term for the various stitches they employ in the making of real lace and embroideries. ———————— The three lines of decorative stitching applied to the back of a glove. ———————— A term denoting hand-made lace. There are numerous laces to which the name is given, such as Point de Croix, Point d'Alencon. The latter part of the full term relates to the town or district or some special feature of handiwork. There are at least 200 varieties of point lace. The term should only be applied to denote laces made by the needle with a single line of thread, but today many kinds of pillow and machine-made laces are sold as point. -
70 Torchonette
Coarse open cotton fabric made 24 ends and 24 picks per inch from a special 3/42's yarn which has a fine hard twisted cotton thread lightly twisted with it. The effect is a crinkled cloth. -
71 Winding
The operation of transferring yarn from one form of package to another, such as winding from hanks to bobbins, from bobbins to cones, from cops to bobbins, etc. The process that follows spinning determines whether winding is necessary or not. Cops and ring tubes or bobbins can be used in that form as weft in the shuttle, but they are not suitable for making into warps, nor as supply to knitting or braiding machines. Yarn in the other forms of spun packages requires to be pirned for use as weft. Although yarn winding is not a fundamental process like spinning and weaving, it occupies a very important place in the economics of yarn processing, and probably embraces a wider range of different machines than any other phase of textile processing. Even a bare catalogue of the different kinds of winding machines would far too lengthy for inclusion here. Broadly, winding machines are adapted for: - 1. Winding yarn for use as weft in loom shuttles, including winding on to wood pirns and paper tubes; solid cops for use in shuttles without tongues; quills for use in ribbon and smallware looms; layer locking at the nose of the pirn to prevent sloughing of rayon weft; bunch building at the base of pirns for use in automatic looms; weft rewound from spinner's cops into larger packages to give maximum length at one filling of the shuttle. The yarn supply can be from hanks, cops, spinner's bobbins, cones, cheeses, warps, etc. 2. Winding yarns for making warps from spinner's cops or bobbins, hanks that have been sized, bleached or dyed, cones, cheeses, and other forms of supply. 3. Winding yarns into suitable form for sizing, bleaching, dyeing, or for receiving other wet treatments, including hanks, warps, cheeses, cops, etc. 4. Winding yarns for knitting, i.e., on to splicer bobbins, cones, pineapple cones, bottle bobbins, etc., and on to bobbins for use in braiding machines. 5. Special process winding such as the precision winding of several threads side by side in tape form for covering wire, etc. 6. Winding yarns into packages for retail selling such as winding mending wools on cards; sewing thread on wood spools or small flangeless cheeses; crochet embroidery and other threads into balls; packing string info balls and cheeses; harvesting twine into large balls and cones, etc.
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