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121 Charmeuse
A dress fabric made of all silk yarns, and with a satin face and crepe-like back. A hard twisted warp and crepe weft is used. The finished cloth is dull but soft. The name Charmeuse is the registered trade mark of a fabric originated by a French firm, Bianchini, Ferier and Co., bat it has been made common by copying the fabric on a large scale. The Berlin Chamber of Industry and Commerce gives the following opinion: - Charmeuse has been understood commercially for many decades as a woven silk fabric with a lustrous duchess satin-like face and a dull crepe-like back. Originally made from natural silk, this material has been manufactured in the last few years both in part or wholly from rayon. " Tricot-charmeuse " is a knitted fabric, the back of which has an appearance similar to that of Charmeuse. Tricot-charmeuse has been largely used as a rayon hosiery material in Saxony and Thuringia, but such materials have also been called " Charmeuse " for some time past in the factories making Tricot charmeuse. It is considered, therefore, that the term " Charmeuse," without some special designation, has no power of differentiation and cannot be considered for registration as a trade mark. -
122 Fibreglas
Fibreglas textile fibres are produced by two methods, the continuous filament process and staple fibre process. In each process glass marbles, made from melted and refined raw materials are remelted in small electrical furnaces, each of which has many small holes in the base of the melting chamber, through which the molten glass flows in fine streams by gravity. In the continuous filament process more than 100 filaments are drawn simultaneously and gathered into a thread or strand. The strand is attached to a high-speed winder that, as it draws the strand, attentuates each stream of molten glass to a fraction of the diameter of the hole through which it emerges. In the staple fibre process the streams of molten glass are struck by jets of high-pressure air or steam which attentuate the glass into fibres varying in length from 8-in. to 15-in. These fibres are driven on to a revolving drum on which they form a web, which is gathered from the drum and wound on to a tube in the form of a sliver. Strands of either continuous filament or staple fibres are twisted and plied into yarns on standard textile machinery. Fibreglas yarns are particularly suitable where fire-proofness, resistance to acids or other chemicals other than alkalis is demanded. Uses include electrical yarns, cords, tapes, cloths and sleevings which form the basis for a plain and varnished or impregnated electrical insulation material; chemical filter fabrics, anode bags used in electroplating, wicking for oil lamps and stoves, pump diaphragms, special fabrics for resisting high-temperature fumes and acids, facing materials for insulating or acoustical blankets, also rubber-coated, acid-proof and waterproof fabrics. Decorative uses include draperies, shower curtains, tablecloths, bedspreads, lamp shades and some apparel accessories, such as men's neckties. Also decorative work in architecture, dress fabrics, particularly for fancy effects, non-stretching cord for use in radio indicating dials, bookbinding, fire-screens, etc. -
123 Kasha
A worsted dress cloth, 2 & 2 twill weave, low ends and picks, soft and woolly handle, piece-dyed. It is a trade name and claimed to be the finest wool cloth made. Originated by Paul Rodier, a French manufacturer and made from camel hair in 54-in. Today the yarns are a special blend of cashmere and merino wools. The fabric is a vicuna with a kasha finish and is registered under this name. -
124 Leno Brocade
The term given to a brocade cloth where the gauze principle of weaving is used for ornament. Usually there is a leno figure on a plain or other ground, but sometimes the ground is in a leno weave. Fine yarns are general as the fabric is a light weight one and used for curtains or summer dress wear. A special leno jacquard machine is necessary in which the hooks are divided into three groups arranged to actuate a rear caser harness, a central brocade harness, and a front doup harness. Doups and healds as well as a jacquard may be employed. Many kinds of yarns are used in the production of leno brocades. An example in cotton has 108 ends and 80 picks per inch, 50's T., and 3/20's net yarn, and 50's weft.
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125 Marocain
A dress fabric, plain weave, woven from crepe yarns. The finished cloth has a crinkled appearance caused by the special yarns. The warp ends are half right and reverse twist and drawn in 2 & 2 up to 6 & 6. A softer spun weft is used. They are dyed and printed, and many jacquard effects are woven. One quality is 44 ends and 60 picks per inch, 40's T., 40's W., all Egyptian cotton. Marocains are also made in silk and wool mixtures and rayon. -
126 Nylon
Nylon was first made in the laboratories of E.I. du Pont de Nemours, of Wilmington, Delaware, U.S.A., under the direction of the late Dr. W. H. Carothers as a result of researches started 1928. In October, 1938, it -was announced to the world that a new form of textile fibre had been made by man, and that " nylon " was to be its name. Nylon stockings were on sale to the general public in U.S.A. on May 15, 1940, and many other items of wearing apparel were shown at the New York Pair that summer. In Great Britain, plans made jointly before the war by Courtaulds and Imperial Chemical Industries were responsible for production being started in 1941 by British Nylon Spinners Limited. The " 66 " polymer (each molecule of these reagents contains 6 carbon atoms and hence the name or designation " 66 ") was first made in 1935. Nylon is a name, not for a single material, but for a whole class or family of entirely new materials. There are many nylons and there may be many more. Nylon is the generic or family name for them all, just as glass and coal are names of classes of substances. Nylon, in the general sense, is a man-made material having a chemical composition akin to proteins, of which silk, hair and wool are examples, although nylon has not an exact counterpart in nature. It is not an " artificial " product, nor a man-made copy of a natural material. It can be made up into powders, sheets, solutions, strands or yarns, each with special properties according to requirements. The " 66 " polymer, from which yam is made, was synthesised in 1933, although not announced to the world until October, 1938. The raw material from which the diamine and acid for making " 66 " polymer are obtained are phenol from coal, oxygen and nitrogen from the air, and hydrogen from water. Particularly suitable where high elasticity is required. Uses include parachute fabrics, tyre cords, glider tow ropes, shoe laces webbing, braid, tape and thread, fully-fashioned hosiery, seamless hosiery, underwear fabrics, lace, nets, dress fabrics, marquisettes, neckties, transparent velvet, coated fabrics for raincoats and food covers. Industrial uses include shoe fabrics, sash cords, window screens, filters and bolting fabrics, also slip covers, motor car upholstery, shirtings, tents and shower curtains. -
127 Silver Cloth
A dress material of French manufacture made of special yarns, composed of 80 per cent of wool and 20 per cent of vegetable silk, or Asclepios cotton. Mostly plain weave. A silver cloth was patented in 1934 after considerable research. The method finally covered by patent was to immerse the cloth in a solution of silver nitrate and follow this treatment by precipitation of the silver in the fibres by means of sodium carbonate. The resulting silver cloth actually contains about 9 per cent of silver and has a decided brown colour due to the silver oxide. -
128 Splash Voile
A cotton dress fabric woven from an ordinary voile warp and a special voile weft made with thick slubs at intervals. A standard cloth is 36-in., 52 ends and 42 picks per inch, 50's hard spun voile warp, 56's splashed voile weft.
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