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81 Cashmere Shawls
French woollen manufacturers make a fabric on jacquard looms in many coloured effects from fine worsted and woollen yarns that they term cashmere shawls. At the best they are only imitations. ———————— The natives of Kashmir and Tibet have made these shawls for centuries, and they are, perhaps, the finest textiles known. They are made on hand looms from hand spun yarns of Pashmina wool. Either plain or twill weave, one or more colours, in numerous gorgeous designs and often being embroidered. A doubled warp yarn and single weft is usual, the weft being wound on small sticks to use as shuttles. There are numerous varieties, of which the most esteemed are Doshalla, Kussaba, Jamewar and Ulwan. The fabric is also used for gowns and dress purposes (see kasabeh, jamawar). The ornaments of the shawls are denoted by different names, viz: - Pala - The whole of the embroidery at the two ends. Hashia - The border, one at each side. Zanjir (or Chain) - Runs above and also below the principal mass of the Pala and confines it. Dhour (or Running Ornament) - Situated to the inside in regard to the Hashia and the Zanjir enveloping the whole field. Kunjbutha - A cornet ornament of clustered flowers. Mitton - The field or ground within the borders. Matton - The decorated part of the field. Butha - Generic term for flowers, especially the cone-like ornaments (see butha) -
82 Cha
A very thin, light Chinese silk fabric, sometimes woven plain, but often ornamented with floral designs so closely combined that the ground of the fabric is invisible; worn for summer garments by the Chinese, usually printed. -
83 China Grass Cloth
A plain weave fabric made from yarns spun from ramie (China grass) in many widths and qualities. The lustre on the fabric gives an impression of linen. It is used for small tablecloths, etc. (see Grass Cloth) -
84 Chung Shan Chou Silk
A new silk developed in Nanking, made in imitation of light woollens, the object being to get the Chinese public to use it for dress suits in substitution for imported woollens. The fabric stands washing, can be re-dyed, and has no rustle. Made in plain, figured or woollen designs. The silk is produced from superior raw silk and is prepared m the local thread-making factories. The warp is a ply yarn and the cost is much higher than ordinary silks. The fabric is sold under the brand " Yl Shing Kung."Dictionary of the English textile terms > Chung Shan Chou Silk
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85 Coat
Very strong and coarse jute or hemp plain weave fabric, which is usually tarred and used on ships. ———————— The garment so called at present was not seen in its original shape previous to the second half of the 17th century, but the word was applied to articles of costume for both sexes both here and on the Continent as early as the 13th century. About this time the " Cote " in France was a close body-garment, over which, as its name implies, the " Surcote " was worn at pleasure, in or out of doors. Henry VIII wore long coats, demi coats, short coats, riding coats, coats with shirts, with loose sleeves and without any-Most of these coats were composed of bright coloured materials, cloth of gold and damask silver, striped with purple velvet, white satin, purple and black velvet. In the reign of Charles II was first seen what in these days would be popularly termed a coat. During the reigns of James II and William III the coat only altered in having sleeves looser, longer, and with heavy cuffs. -
86 Crepoline
CREPOLINE, or ROXANOThe name given to a warp rib fabric in which the weave is so broken up that a crepe effect is seen. Sometimes called " rib crepes." Made with 66 ends of 2/40's mohair warp and 48 picks per inch of 20's worsted. Made in the Bradford district and used for dress goods. A shows the plain rib and B the broken rib weave
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RIB CREPES, or CREPOLINEA warp rib fabric with the rib effect broken up into a crepe style. -
87 Ducape
An all-silk fabric,plain weave, made with cords. Although an ancient term it is still met with in country districts for a corded cloth. It is actually a poplin fabric of heavy make. -
88 Flat Crepe
An all-silk fabric woven from a raw silk warp and a crepe-de-chine hard twisted weft. The finished cloth is flat and has a satin effect to the handle. Plain weave and usually more ends than picks. Many qualities are made from pure silk fabric down to cloths containing as much as 24 per cent of added weight. -
89 French Merino
A fine dress fabric originally woven in France from all merino yarns, but now also made in Yorkshire. It is plain or twill weaves and in many light dress qualities. Also known as Anacosta. One fabric is a weft-faced cloth with 72 ends and 180 picks per inch. 60's warp, 80's weft, botany yams, in a 2 & 2 twill weave. -
90 Frontings
Originally this term was given to a fine linen fabric used for making shirt fronts. It is now regarded as a good quality plain linen fabric. Made 36-in. wide, 40 yard pieces. About 96 ends and 100 picks per inch, 100 lea linen warp, 90 lea linen wefr. -
91 Fugi Silks
A fabric, plain weave, all spun silk yarns, made in many qualities for undergarments. They are piece-dyed in fast to washing colours. The yarns are not fully de-gummed which gives a dull appearance to the fabric. A fair quality is made 84 ends and 64 picks per inch, from 40's T., 26's W. spun silk yarns. Another make has 40's/2 warp and 30's/2 weft. The real Fugi silk cloth is made in Japan from Hanneri silk yarns. Usually 29-in X 50 yards and 120's/2 to 140's/2 yams. These are known as heavy 120's two-fold, middle weight 140's two-fold. Also referred to as double weft and single weft, viz., 140's two-fold and 65's single. -
92 Gordon Cord
Name given to a fabric of a twilled cord character similar to a whipcord, 80 ends and 120 picks per inch, 2/60's cotton warp, 2/36's worsted weft. It is a high-class fabric and may be varied with plain stripes.
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93 Hakir
A plain weave fabric made with silk warp and cotton weft. The warp is striped, usually in two colours, but sometimes three and four are used. Made in East India on hand looms and the fabric is very strong. -
94 Hopsacking
HOPSACK, or HOPSACKINGA woollen fabric, woven in hopsack weave is known under this name, and used for dress goods and suiting. ———————— A very coarse plain weave jute fabric used for bags. -
95 Kalmuck
(1) A coarse woollen cloth made from rough yarns and used for overcoats. The face is very shaggy to resemble a bear-skin. (2) A low grade heavy cotton fabric woven on the Continent also has the term Kalmuck applied to it. The cloth is woven on check looms in a low reed with strong grey cotton warp and two colours of weft. Only one colour appears on each side. Rather soft spun yarn is used for the weft and the fabric is raised on both sides. Construction 36 ends and 50 picks per inch. 16's warp hard spun and 4's to 6's weft. (3) Also low quality plain weave cotton cloth made in Persia. -
96 Kasheda
Same as Kasida. ————————KASIDA, KASHIDA, KASHEDA.Plain dyed cotton cloth of light weight, hand embroidered by natives in Bengal. Muga silk yarn is used for embroidering. The pattern is printed on the fabric in fugitive colours and the embroidery is around this pattern. The colour is washed out. A better quality has the Muga (or Moonga) wild silk weft instead of cotton. Principally made on hand looms in the Dacca district. The fabric is exported to Turkey, Egypt and Arabia for use as scarfs and turbans. -
97 Kasida
KASIDA, KASHIDA, KASHEDA.Plain dyed cotton cloth of light weight, hand embroidered by natives in Bengal. Muga silk yarn is used for embroidering. The pattern is printed on the fabric in fugitive colours and the embroidery is around this pattern. The colour is washed out. A better quality has the Muga (or Moonga) wild silk weft instead of cotton. Principally made on hand looms in the Dacca district. The fabric is exported to Turkey, Egypt and Arabia for use as scarfs and turbans. -
98 Kashida,
KASIDA, KASHIDA, KASHEDA.Plain dyed cotton cloth of light weight, hand embroidered by natives in Bengal. Muga silk yarn is used for embroidering. The pattern is printed on the fabric in fugitive colours and the embroidery is around this pattern. The colour is washed out. A better quality has the Muga (or Moonga) wild silk weft instead of cotton. Principally made on hand looms in the Dacca district. The fabric is exported to Turkey, Egypt and Arabia for use as scarfs and turbans. -
99 Khes
A commonly used fabric woven all over the Punjab for bed sheets. Made in plains, stripes and checks and almost any simple weave, in 6 yard and 12 yard lengths. Hand-spun yarns about 6's to 10's and mill yarns up to 40's are used for the various qualities in native cottons. Also the term is applied to a silk fabric, plain weave, with a gold border or a fancy border including some gold threads. -
100 Kidderminster
A carpet without a pile. Also known as Scottish carpets and in America as Ingrain carpets. They are double plain fabrics, each fabric of a different colour. The two cloths interchange positions according to the design, and this transposing of the two cloths also binds them together. The finished carpet is reversible. This style of carpet was the first to be made on the loom in this country. The best qualities are made from all-wool yarn - cotton warps being used to make inferior qualities. Many Scottish-made carpets are three-ply cloths - The third cloth being introduced to give a thicker fabric, and by using other colours gives much richer designs.
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fabric — noun 1 cloth ADJECTIVE ▪ beautiful, luxurious, rich ▪ rich fabric wall coverings ▪ delicate, fine, light, lightweight … Collocations dictionary
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