one+is+worsted

Made in wide widths for use as dresses, coats, etc., good quality yarns, 72-ends, 68 picks per inch. The warp is usually end and end mohair and worsted, two-fold yarns, such as 2 / 60's or 2 / 40's - The weft is single worsted 26's to 32's. Other qualities are made from one kind of warp, but in right and reverse twist, and up to about loo-ends per inch. Cotton weft is used in the cheapest cloths, about 48's yarn dyed black. The photograph shows a typical wool Armure fabric made in a fancy rep weave 84 X 68, 2 / 60's botany / 30's botany. A heavy cloth is also termed "Armure", used for drapery and curtains, woven with brocade figuring on the armure weave ground, and all-wool yarns

Woollen manufacturers use these patterns largely for coatings and vestings, Their characteristic feature are checks produced by two adjoining warp threads and picks intervening exactly opposite to each other and forming clear cuts. The cloths are made in double cloth structure with 2 X 2 twill face in check design and a plain back. One quality is made 92 X 54, 2/48's worsted back and face warp, and single worsted face weft 16's to 24's, with a 20 skeins Yorkshire woollen back

A dress material made of silk warp and worsted weft in a twill weave. The cloth is very soft - one quality is made 80-ends 100 denier silk and 100 picks of 84's worsted.

An imitation hairline fabric, woven from woollen warp and worsted weft. If red, blue and white are used for warp then the weft is similarly dyed. In the weave shown, are two ends of each colour together and the ends are all lifted except those of the same colour as the pick about to be thrown across. This gives a three-colour stripe with each colour well defined. The rib weave used also gives a balanced cloth. One quality is made 72-in. wide in the loom, 26 ends of 3 run wool warp and 60 picks of 2/30's worsted weft per inch. The weight is about 14-oz. per yard.

A mixture worsted yarn made from printed sliver. Usually more than one colour is printed on the sliver in bands. A cloth made with this yarn has 64 ends and 52 picks per inch, 45's warp and 15's weft, all worsted. The term is also given to silk yarns produced in a similar way. The word is French for " mixture effect."

Originally this term was applied to a dress fabric having a silk warp and worsted weft. The name came from the town in New South Wales where the paramatta wool came from. When made of worsted warp and weft the cloth was known as Coburg. It is now made with a cotton warp and botany weft in 2 & 1 weft twill weave, and used for proofing. One quality is made 60 ends and 128 picks per inch, 40's warp, 60's weft, botany yarns.

A worsted fabric made in narrow widths about 24-in. in fancy twill weaves, used for dress goods. Piece-dyed and soft finish. The cloth is also known as " Albatross." One quality is made 60 ends and 52 picks per inch, 30's warp, 40's weft, worsted crepe yarns.

General term for processes after winding concerned in preparing weaver's and knitter's warps. Methods of warping vary according to (1) the yarns employed (2) whether they are sized or not, and (3) at what state sizing takes place. There are at least seven methods of warp preparation, e.g., beam warping, direct warping, mill warping on vertical mills, section warping on horizontal mills and in cheeses on section blocks, Scotch dresser sizing, Scotch warp dressing, and Yorkshire warp dressing. Beam Warping is the system in general use for making grey cotton goods. The beam warper comprises a creel for the supply ends, which may be on double-flanged bobbins, cones or cheeses, and a beaming head which comprises mechanism for mounting and rotating a warper's beam and means for winding the yarn from the creel supply on to the beam under suitable tension. The number of ends and length of warp on a back or warper's beam is related to what is required in the weaver's beam. Assuming the weaver's beams were required to have 2928 ends, 24's warp, and 8 cuts of 96 yards each, the back beams for a set might have 2928: 6 = 488 ends, and 2 X 6 X 8 X 96 = 9216 yards. On the slasher sizing machine six back beams would be run together, thereby producing 12 weaver's beams each containing 2928 ends 768 yards long. Warp Beaming Speeds - With the old type of warp beaming machine taking supply from unrolling double-flanged bobbins, the warping speed would be about 70 yards per minute. In modern beam warpers taking supply overend from cones, the warping speed is up to 250 yards per minute. With beam barrels of 4¹/₂-in. dia., and up to 500 yards per minute with barrels of 10-in. dia. Warp and Weft Knitted Fabrics - Warp knitted fabrics in which extra yarn is introduced in the form of weft threads which are laid in between the warp threads and their needles for the purpose of adding extra weight and for patterning purposes. Warp Loom Tapes - Narrow knitted fabrics usually less than one inch wide used for trimming garments. They are knitted on circular latch needle machines, but the tapes are flat. Direct Warping - A method used in making warps for towels, fustians, and other fabrics in which the total number of ends can be accommodated in one creel, say not more than 1,000 ends. The threads are run from the creel direct to the weaver's beam on a machine similar to that used in section beam warping. Mill Warping - There are two distinctly different methods of mill warping. On the vertical mill, which may be anything up to 20 yards in circumference, the number of ends in the complete warp is obtained by repeating the runs the required number of times, e.g., with 200 bobbins in the creel, 4 runs would give a warp of 800 ends. The length of the warp is determined by the number of revolutions made by the mill for each run. The horizontal mill is much used in Yorkshire for making woollen and worsted warps It is used to a small extent for cotton warps and is largely used for making silk and rayon warps. The mill or swift is usually about 5 yards in circumference. Its distinctive feature is the making of warps in sections which are wound on the mill in overlapping manner. The creel capacity varies from 250 to 600 ends, and with 500 ends in the creel a warp of 5,000 ends would require ten sections. Section Warping for Coloured Goods - This is a system of making coloured striped warps from hank-dyed and bleached yarns. The bobbins are creeled to pattern, one or more complete patterns to each section. Each section is the full length of the warp and is run on a small section block keywayed to fit a key on the shaft of the subsequent beaming machine where the sections are placed side by side and run on the weaver's beam. Scotch Dresser Sizing - There are two systems of warp preparation known as Scotch dressing. 1. Dresser sizing used for sizing warps for linen damasks, etc. Back beams are first made and placed in two beam creels, one on each side of the headstock. The threads from several back beams are collected in one sheet of yarn, sized by passage through a size-box, brushed by a revolving brush, dried by hot air, and passed vertically upwards where both sheets of warp threads are united and pass on to the weaver's beam in a single sheet. Scotch Warp Dressing - The other method of Scotch dressing is used in the preparation of coloured striped warps, usually from warp-dyed and bleached yarn. It consists in splitting off from ball warps previously dyed or bleached and sized, the number of ends of each colour required in the finished warp. Each group is then wound on separate flanged warpers' beams. These beams are placed in a creel and the ends drawn through a reed according to pattern, and wound finally on to the weavers' beams. Yorkshire Warp Dressing - This is a system used mostly in the preparation of coloured striped warps. It is also invaluable in preparing warps dyed and sized in warp form to prevent shadiness in the cloth. Four warps with the same number of ends in each are dyed the same colour, and in sleying, one end from each warp is put in each dent of the reed. Any tendency to shadiness arising from irregularity in dyeing is thereby effectively eliminated. In striped work the required ends are split off if necessary from a larger ball warp, sleyed to pattern in the reed, and then run under controlled tension on to the weaver's beam. The dresser uses a brush as long as the width of the warp to brush out entangled places where the threads have adhered together with size. Yorkshire dressing provides perfect warps with every thread in its proper place on the weaver's beam, no crossed or missing threads, and a minimum of knots.

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Fabric for seating in railway carriages and tramcars, and is exceptionally strong and durable. Usually woven of lustre worsted yarns made from English wool. A standard cloth is made of three warps and two wefts. Two of the warps are botany yarn in two shades and the other is cotton dyed in one of the wool warp shades. The wefts are two picks cotton and one pick thick botany. The rib or repp ground is emphasised by the coarse wool picks. Colours are mostly red and black.

French woollen manufacturers make a fabric on jacquard looms in many coloured effects from fine worsted and woollen yarns that they term cashmere shawls. At the best they are only imitations. ———————— The natives of Kashmir and Tibet have made these shawls for centuries, and they are, perhaps, the finest textiles known. They are made on hand looms from hand spun yarns of Pashmina wool. Either plain or twill weave, one or more colours, in numerous gorgeous designs and often being embroidered. A doubled warp yarn and single weft is usual, the weft being wound on small sticks to use as shuttles. There are numerous varieties, of which the most esteemed are Doshalla, Kussaba, Jamewar and Ulwan. The fabric is also used for gowns and dress purposes (see kasabeh, jamawar). The ornaments of the shawls are denoted by different names, viz: - Pala - The whole of the embroidery at the two ends. Hashia - The border, one at each side. Zanjir (or Chain) - Runs above and also below the principal mass of the Pala and confines it. Dhour (or Running Ornament) - Situated to the inside in regard to the Hashia and the Zanjir enveloping the whole field. Kunjbutha - A cornet ornament of clustered flowers. Mitton - The field or ground within the borders. Matton - The decorated part of the field. Butha - Generic term for flowers, especially the cone-like ornaments (see butha)

A term denoting an important class of woollen figured cloths, which is popular at times. The distinctive feature is fine furrows cutting one weave from another, and the principle is used for worsted coatings and trouserings. The cut is obtained by means of two threads arranged so that one thread is raised for two or more picks, while the other is depressed, and vice versa.

A mixture fabric of silk warp and worsted weft. The warp weaves one end plain and one end terry, giving a series of minute loops over the surface.

Another name for " bird's-eye " designs especially in the worsted suiting industry. The effect is produced by using one end or two ends working as one of a light-coloured yarn to three or four ends of a dark colour in the warp, the weave usually being a twill.

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