on other counts

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In this system which is used for cotton and fine linens the counts are based upon the number of splits in 37-in. (the Scotch ell). The count is given in hundreds or hundreds and half-hundreds. Thus a reed with 1,800 splits on 37-in. is termed an eighteen hundred reed and written 18⁰⁰. If with 1,850 splits it is termed an eighteen-and-a-half hundred and written 18³⁰. This system is also in use in some parts of Ireland, but other districts take 36-in., 38-in. or 40-in. as the basis, instead of 37-in., the 40-in. scale being the most used.

on other counts

I noun II 1. verb 2. noun 3. adjective - countdown
- count on
- out for the count I [kaunt] II [kaunt] III [kaunt]

Specially hard-twisted yarn for making voile fabrics. Single 50's and 2/100's are usual counts, although other counts are spun. Two-fold voile yarns are usually doubled twist-on-twist, e.g., the two-fold twisting is in the same direction as the twist in the singles. Standard twist 38 turns per inch.

This is a large export trade. The yarn is obtained from silk waste, under which inferior cocoons and waste from reeling raw silk are included. It is spun in 65's, 71's singles, and 135's and 120's two-fold for export. Other counts are used locally for Fugi and other fabrics. It is graded in two varieties, Honneri and Hanneri.

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There are two classes of waste, known respectively as " hard " and " soft," and the methods of their treatment differ according to the used to which the waste is put. Hard Waste consists essentially of the waste from ring frames, reeling and winding machines, cop bottoms, and all other waste of a thready nature. The products is invariably spun into the finer counts of yarn. Soft Waste is mostly composed of scutcher droppings, card cylinder and flat strips and fly, clearer laps, sweepings, etc. It is adapted for lower counts, soft-spun weft, etc. In order to obtain the best results from the above waste it is essential that the two kinds be separated and treated accordingly. The waste thrown off in the process of cotton spinning may be utilised in a variety of ways. Certain portions may be worked up again in the mill in which it is made; or in its loose state it may be converted into wadding, gun cotton, etc. (see waste spinning)

(See knitting). All yarns used for knitting are termed hosiery yarns in Leicester, but in America only yarns actually used for knitted footwear come under this term. These yarns are much softer than required for weaving. Miscellaneous Yarns - Goat wools, such as llama and alpaca are employed in spinning. yarns for the knitting trade. Vicuna and camel yarns are used to a limited extent. Ramie yarn is specially employed for knitting gas mantle fabrics. Soft spun flax yams have been used for making underwear fabric. Chenille and other manufactured threads are used to a small extent in warp knitting. Composite yarns, such as union yarns - spun from a mixture of wool and cotton fibres; cordon yarns - cotton and worsted singles, doubled together; wool and rayon or spun silk, cotton and rayon or spun silk are largely used to produce self or two-colour effects. Fancy yarns, such as slub yams, voiles, and curled and loop yarns are also employed. Hosiery Yarns (Cotton) include condenser, hosiery, condenser lisle thread, mercerised and sewing cottons. Condenser yarns are spun in coarse counts from low-grade cotton, Indian and American. They are carded, condensed and mule spun, and possess little twist. Hosiery cotton yarns vary considerably in counts and qualities, practically all varieties of Indian, American and Egyptian being used in varying proportions to obtain suitable mixture for quality and price. Cheaper yarns are carded and mule spun. American and Egyptian cotton yarns are combed mainly with the object of removing seed particles. High-class Egyptian and Sea Islands cotton yarns are super-combed. The chief features of a hosiery cotton yam should be: (1) Regularity; (2) cleanliness; (3) fullness. Regularity prevents the making of cloudy fabric, showing thick and thin places. Cleanliness is essential, as the seed particles clog the eyelet hole in the yam guides and cause breakages. Fullness is desirable to cover the loop interstices. Elasticity and pliability are quite as essential as tensile strength. Yams are usually soft spun and if two-fold soft doubled, average twists in two-fold being 2/10's 6¹/₂T., 2/20's 8¹/₂T., 2/30's 10T., 2/40's 16T., 2/80's 20T. Softer twist less 25 to 30 per cent of average (T= turns per inch). Lisle thread is a comparatively hard-twisted and doubly-gassed thread in which there are no projecting fibres. It is always of a two-fold character, and the doubling twist varies from 24 to 34 turns per inch in 2/60's. It is used largely in the manufacture of ladies' hose tops and feet and for lace hosiery. Mercerised yams are used largely in the fancy trade, a comparatively soft twist again being employed. Sewing cottons for seaming, linking and making-up are specially prepared in two to six cord open and reverse twist. Woollen and Worsted Yarns include lamb's wool, wheeling, skein yarns, gala yams (woollens), worsted, crossbreds, fingering, cashmere, dry spun botany (see under each name). Worsted and crossbred yarns of various qualities are used. These yams are spun softly with " hosiery twist." The drawing may be open, cone or French, and the spinning may take place on cap, ring or flyer frames. The chief essentials of hosiery yarn are softness of fibre, fullness, minimum of twist consistent with the requisite tensile strength, regularity, pliability and elasticity. Cashmere Yarns, as used in the knitted goods industry, are spun from short, loose and weak wools as well as from better qualities by French drawing and mule spinning. A small proportion of real cashmere is used for outer garments. In recent years nylon yarns have been largely employed.

The term "High Draft" came into prominence in 1913 with the appearance in Spain of the Casablancas mechanism for drafting in cotton spinning. This mechanism, owing to an increased and improved control over the fibres, was capable of drafts about four times higher than the normal. The new method was called " high draft " to distinguish it from the existing method which only gave usual or " low " drafts. Since 1913 many other high draft systems have been introduced, all aiming at controlling the fibres - particularly the shorter ones - as much and as adequately as possible. The utilisation of these improved methods of fibre control has other important advantages besides the saving in machinery and labour accruing from the higher drafts performed. The strength of the yarn is generally increased and its appearance improved. A good high draft system will also spin finer counts from a given cotton, or a standard quality of yarn from a lower and cheaper cotton. The adoption of the high drafting principle has been an important feature in the progress of cotton spinning machinery in recent years, and - almost without exception - new machines are now supplied by all textile machinists with high drafting on.

A very strong and durable fibre. It is grown in China, Japan, Java, India, etc. Ramie fibre is very white, has a high lustre, and can be separated into filaments as fine as silk. The ramie plant belongs to the family of Urtica (nettle) and to the sub-division Boehmeria. It contains about 25 per cent of gum and when degummed is much stronger than hemp or cotton. It can be spun with less twist than other fibres of similar length of staple. It resists damp, and when mixed with wool imparts non-shrinking properties to the resulting yarn. The fibre lengths vary from 4-in. to 72-in. It is much used for gas mantles. Ramie counts are usually in the worsted system (see China Grass). The two best fibre-yielding species are" Boehmeria tenacissima, often called the green-leaved ramie, as its leaves are entirely green; and Boehmeria nivea, often called the white-leaved ramie, as the undersides of its leaves are silvery white. The nivea species is very largely grown in China, and to a lesser degree in India and Formosa, and the tenacissima in Java, Sumatra, Borneo, Malacca, Mexico, and other tropical countries.

A very strong and durable fibre. It is grown in China, Japan, Java, India, etc. Ramie fibre is very white, has a high lustre, and can be separated into filaments as fine as silk. The ramie plant belongs to the family of Urtica (nettle) and to the sub-division Boehmeria. It contains about 25 per cent of gum and when degummed is much stronger than hemp or cotton. It can be spun with less twist than other fibres of similar length of staple. It resists damp, and when mixed with wool imparts non-shrinking properties to the resulting yarn. The fibre lengths vary from 4-in. to 72-in. It is much used for gas mantles. Ramie counts are usually in the worsted system (see China Grass). The two best fibre-yielding species are" Boehmeria tenacissima, often called the green-leaved ramie, as its leaves are entirely green; and Boehmeria nivea, often called the white-leaved ramie, as the undersides of its leaves are silvery white. The nivea species is very largely grown in China, and to a lesser degree in India and Formosa, and the tenacissima in Java, Sumatra, Borneo, Malacca, Mexico, and other tropical countries.

The wool yarns made at Alloa, Scotland. They are high in quality and used for knitting; of heavy counts, usually three-fold; made up into 2-oz. skeins, in black, drab, grey, white and heather mixtures. Other districts now make these yarns. Its principal use is for men's thick gloves.