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121 Lea Breaking Strain
The lea method of finding the break in lb. of yarn is to reel on lea (120 yards) and test on a lea testing machine, which applies dead-weight tension at a slowly increasing rate until the lea of yarn breaks. The breaking point is indicated on a dial calibrated in Ib.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Lea Breaking Strain
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122 Scotch Beaming
This is a method of coloured warp preparation. Warps are prepared by the beam warper in the same way as for grey warps for slashing (tape sizing), the number of warp threads required being divided over a suitable number of back beams. These are then taken to a rebeaming machine, in which the threads are passed through a set of leasing healds and arranged in their proper order according to the pattern, and afterwards run on to the weaver's beam. When one beam has been filled a lease is taken by the healds and the yarn cut off and attached to another empty beam. -
123 Swiss Embroidery
This method of adding ornament is done by hand or machine on the woven fabric. Light-weight muslins are usually the fabrics used. -
124 Wool Scouring Fabrics
A cleansing treatment of woollen and worsted fabrics designed to remove wool fats which have remained in the yarns during processing, or any oily and fatty matters that have been added to assist processing into yarns. The usual method is saponification in which the free fatty acids of the oils are converted into soaps by the action of alkali in the scouring machine. The strength of the scouring solution, time of treatment, temperature of the scour are varied in accordance with the amount of oil to be removed, the character of the fabric, etc.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Wool Scouring Fabrics
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125 Woollen Yarn
A term which originally denoted carded wool yarn spun from wool fibre unsuitable for combing or rejected as noil from the wool combing machine. Now it denotes an infinitely varied class of yarns spun from virgin wool, re-used wool and other materials mixed in every conceivable manner, and prepared for spinning by carding and condensing. Woollen yarns are coarser than worsted and owing to the omission of combing in preparing the yarn for spinning, the component fibres are not parallelised, hence the yarns are fuller and have more projecting ends of fibres due to the presence of a greater proportion of short fibres. Woollen yarn spinning is a means of making serviceable yarns from fibres too short to be used by the worsted method of yarn preparation. -
126 clock in
1. Gen Mgtto register arrival at work without actually inserting a card into a time clock (slang)2. HRto register your arrival for work by inserting a card into a machine to record the time. Clocking in is a method of officially monitoring employees’ time keeping. -
127 Bourn, Daniel
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]fl. 1744 Lancashire, England[br]English inventor of a machine with cylinders for carding cotton.[br]Daniel Bourn may well have been a native of Lancashire. He set up a fourth Paul-Wyatt cotton-spinning mill at Leominster, Herefordshire, possibly in 1744, although the earliest mention of it is in 1748. His only known partner in this mill was Henry Morris, a yarn dealer who in 1743 had bought a grant of spindles from Paul at the low rate of 30 shillings or 40 shillings per spindle when the current price was £3 or £4. When Bourn patented his carding engine in 1748, he asked Wyatt for a grant of spindles, to which Wyatt agreed because £100 was offered immedi-ately. The mill, which was probably the only one outside the control of Paul and his backers, was destroyed by fire in 1754 and was not rebuilt, although Bourn and his partners had considerable hopes for it. Bourn was said to have lost over £1,600 in the venture.Daniel Bourn described himself as a wool and cotton dealer of Leominster in his patent of 1748 for his carding engine. The significance of this invention is the use of rotating cylinders covered with wire clothing. The patent drawing shows four cylinders, one following the other to tease out the wool, but Bourn was unable to discover a satisfactory method of removing the fibres from the last cylinder. It is possible that Robert Peel in Lancashire obtained one of these engines through Morris, and that James Hargreaves tried to improve it; if so, then some of the early carding engines in the cotton industry were derived from Bourn's.[br]Bibliography1748, British patent no. 628 (carding engine).Further ReadingA.P.Wadsworth and J.de Lacy Mann, 1931, The Cotton Trade and Industrial Lancashire 1600–1780, Manchester (the most significant reference to Bourn).R.L.Hills, 1970, Power in the Industrial Revolution, Manchester (provides an examination of the carding patent).R.S.Fitton, 1989, The Arkwrights, Spinners of Fortune, Manchester (mentions Bourn in his survey of the textile scene before Arkwright).R.Jenkins, 1936–7, "Industries of Herefordshire in Bygone Times", Transactions of the Newcomen Society 17 (includes a reference to Bourn's mill).C.Singer (ed.), 1957, A History of Technology, Vol. III, Oxford: Clarendon Press; ibid., 1958, Vol, IV (brief mentions of Bourn's work).RLH -
128 Brayton, George Bailey
SUBJECT AREA: Steam and internal combustion engines[br]b. 1839 Rhode Island, USAd. 1892 Leeds, England[br]American engineer, inventor of gas and oil engines.[br]During the thirty years prior to his death, Brayton devoted considerable effort to the development of internal-combustion engines. He designed the first commercial gas engine of American origin in 1872. An oil-burning engine was produced in 1875. An aptitude for mechanical innovation became apparent whilst he was employed at the Exeter Machine Works, New Hampshire, where he developed a successful steam generator for use in domestic and industrial heating systems. Brayton engines were distinguished by the method of combustion. A pressurized air-fuel mixture from a reservoir was ignited as it entered the working cylinder—a precursor of the constant-pressure cycle. A further feature of these early engines was a rocking beam. There exist accounts of Brayton engines fitted into river craft, and of one in a carriage which operated for a few months in 1872–3. However, the appearance of the four-stroke Otto engine in 1876, together with technical problems associated with backfiring into the fuel reservoir, prevented large-scale acceptance of the Brayton engine. Although Thompson Sterne \& Co. of Glasgow became licensees, the engine failed to gain usage in Britain. A working model of Brayton's gas engine is exhibited in the Museum of History and Technology in Washington, DC.[br]Bibliography1872, US patent no. 125,166 (Brayton gas engine).July 1890, British patent no. 11,062 (oil engine; under patent agent W.R.Lake).Further ReadingD.Clerk, 1895, The Gas and Oil Engine, 6th edn, London, pp. 152–62 (includes a description and report of tests carried out on a Brayton engine).KAB
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