leno+loom

A device which works on the leno principle which usually works two pairs of leno threads at each side of a split in the centre of the loom. Only one shuttle is used and the leno threads make two selvedges, the weft being severed the whole length of the centre split to divide the cloth into two pieces.

An open edging for ladies' dress, of silk thread corded. It obtains its name from its resemblance to the convolutions of a hairy caterpillar, the Chenille of France. ———————— This is a term primarily applied to a fancy yarn which is made by weaving. The usual method of production is to arrange two pairs of leno threads in one dent of the reed, with a suitable space between, according to the thickness of the chenille yam required. The yarn can be white, mono-coloured or multi-coloured. In the latter case multiple boxes are required on the loom and are changed in accordance with the design desired. After weaving, the fabric is cut lengthways in the middle of the space between each group of four leno threads. This makes continuous chains of short tufts of weft pile and constitutes the chenille yarn. It is mostly used as weft for the production of table covers, hangings, dressing gowns, rugs, carpets, and as fancy yam effects in dress and other fabrics.

The principal types are Axminster, Brussels and Wilton, and brief particulars of each are given below. A more detailed description is given under each name. Axminster is a cut fabric made any width and with any number of colours. It is not produced on a jacquard, therefore the pile does not show on the back. The design is developed by a series of tufts which are bound into the fabric, every tuft is on the surface and only the foundation cloth is seen at the back. There are two principal varieties of these carpets, the Chenille Axminster and the Machine tufted Axminster. The Chenille type is made by two distinct operations, that of manufacturing the chenille weft and that of weaving the carpet with this weft. The " fur or chenille is first woven on an ordinary loom (see chenille) and when cut into the strips is used as weft with a linen, jute or folded cotton warp. The chenille is made preferably with the leno way of shedding in order to bind the wool yarn more firmly. All the figuring weft is on the surface and not embedded in the fabric. The chenille weft is often inserted by hand, but several mechanical methods for doing the work are now in use. From three to six tufts per inch are usual. The chenille Axminster Carpet is also known as the Patent Axminster carpet. The machine-tufted type or Royal Axminster is also formed from pile tufts previously prepared and afterwards woven in the ground warp and bound into the fabric with a binding weft. The tufts may be inserted by hand and the pile is all on the surface of the fabric. This pile is a warp product, whereas for the chenille variety it is weft. Axminster carpets are a product of skill and patience and any number of colours can be used. There are several varieties of machine-made axminster carpets. Wilton is a cut pile fabric woven 27-in. wide from not more than six colours, the yarns are fine counts and design produced by jacquards. Brussels is made almost in the same way as a Wilton, but the pile is not cut and this shows as loops on the face. The yarn is much coarser than for Wiltons. Kidderminster - A carpet made from two or more plain cloths woven together. Each cloth is brought on the face for figuring as required. Turkish - These are hand made. The pile is put into the ground warp by hand as tufts and knotted round them according to pattern. There are two picks of ground weft between each row of pile. Tapestry - Carpets woven from printed warps. The pile is cut or left uncut as required for the design. Persian - Carpets similar to Turkish, being hand made. See also Axminster, Brussels, Kidderminster, Persian Tapestry, Turkish, Wilton Carpets, Body Brussels, Brusselette, Ingrain.

The loom mechanism is entirely different from that used for leno brocade work in which the ordinary doup is used and all the warp is drawn through the mail eyes of the jacquard. For Madras muslins the jacquard is different as doup harness and slackener harness must be provided. Qualities vary from 36 to 50 ends and 27 to 36 picks per inch, of 60's to 80's warp and 40's to 80's weft. The coloured warp yarns are 50's, 2/70's or 2/100's. The figuring weft ranges from 8's to 16's, 2/16's to 2/32's and rayon weft from 500 denier to 150 denier. The cloth is an open gauze ground cloth and extra weft figures are woven on this base. The extra weft appears only where figure is required and the floating yarn between one figure and the next is cut off after weaving.

The loom mechanism is entirely different from that used for leno brocade work in which the ordinary doup is used and all the warp is drawn through the mail eyes of the jacquard. For Madras muslins the jacquard is different as doup harness and slackener harness must be provided. Qualities vary from 36 to 50 ends and 27 to 36 picks per inch, of 60's to 80's warp and 40's to 80's weft. The coloured warp yarns are 50's, 2/70's or 2/100's. The figuring weft ranges from 8's to 16's, 2/16's to 2/32's and rayon weft from 500 denier to 150 denier. The cloth is an open gauze ground cloth and extra weft figures are woven on this base. The extra weft appears only where figure is required and the floating yarn between one figure and the next is cut off after weaving.

Reeds are counted in two systems: (1) Those in which the count or sett is expressed by the number of dents or splits contained in a given space, and include the Radcliffe, Huddersfield, Stockport, Scottish and Macclesfield systems; (2) those in which the count or sett indicates the number of groups of dents contained in a given space. These groups are variously termed beers, porties, or porters, and include the Bolton, Bradford, Dewsbury, Leeds, and Dundee systems. For details see under each system given. REED, ERDMANN - A patented reed used to weave ondule or waved patterns. The wires are specially shaped, and the reeds are raised and lowered in the loom while weaving. REED, FLEXIBLE - Specially constructed reeds used for leno weaving where the douping threads are very thick. They are made by wrapping only one baulk with pitched cord and the other with unpitched cord. REED MARKS - Marks or streaks running the warp way of the cloth. Marks uniformly across the cloth are usually due to insufficient warp threads per inch. Isolated marks may be due to a defective reed. Reed marks may also be caused by incorrect setting of the warp rollers, incorrect timing of shedding and picking, and also by wrong weighting of the warp. REED, OMBRE - A mill term in the U.S.A. for reed marks in cloth showing in the form of streaks running warp way and caused by irregular spacing of the warp threads. REEDS, ONDULE, FAN, or PAQUET - Specially constructed reeds used for weaving wave effects down the cloth. They are of many forms, and when weaving are raised and lowered as required for pattern (see Ondule)

A movable bar on a loom over which yarn passes during weaving, the bar being caused to move inwards, e.g., towards the healds, in order to slacken the warp threads passing over it. When used as a slackener or easer for doup yarns in leno and gauze weaving there must be sufficient movement to allow the doup threads to cross to the other side of the standard threads. Vibrating backrests are used extensively in plain weaving to maintain a uniform tension on the warp threads.