-
21 Bakewell, Robert
SUBJECT AREA: Agricultural and food technology[br]b. 23 May 1725 Loughborough, Englandd. 1 October 1795 Loughborough, England[br]English livestock breeder who pioneered the practice of progeny testing for selecting breeding stock; he is particularly associated with the development of the Improved Leicester breed of sheep.[br]Robert Bakewell was the son of the tenant farming the 500-acre (200 hectare) Dishley Grange Farm, near Loughborough, where he was born. The family was sufficiently wealthy to allow Robert to travel, which he began to do at an early age, exploring the farming methods of the West Country, Norfolk, Ireland and Holland. On taking over the farm he continued the development of the irrigation scheme begun by his father. Arthur Young visited the farm during his tour of east England in 1771. At that time it consisted of 440 acres (178 hectares), 110 acres (45 hectares) of which were arable, and carried a stock of 60 horses, 400 sheep and 150 other assorted beasts. Of the arable land, 30 acres (12 hectares) were under root crops, mainly turnips.Bakewell was not the first to pioneer selective breeding, but he was the first successfully to apply selection to both the efficiency with which an animal utilized its food, and its physical appearance. He always had a clear idea of the animal he wanted, travelled extensively to collect a range of animals possessing the characteristics he sought, and then bred from these towards his goal. He was aware of the dangers of inbreeding, but would often use it to gain the qualities he wanted. His early experiments were with Longhorn cattle, which he developed as a meat rather than a draught animal, but his most famous achievement was the development of the Improved Leicester breed of sheep. He set out to produce an animal that would put on the most meat in the least time and with the least feeding. As his base he chose the Old Leicester, but there is still doubt as to which other breeds he may have introduced to produce the desired results. The Improved Leicester was smaller than its ancestor, with poorer wool quality but with greatly improved meat-production capacity.Bakewell let out his sires to other farms and was therefore able to study their development under differing conditions. However, he made stringent rules for those who hired these animals, requiring the exclusive use of his rams on the farms concerned and requiring particular dietary conditions to be met. To achieve this control he established the Dishley Society in 1783. Although his policies led to accusations of closed access to his stock, they enabled him to keep a close control of all offspring. He thereby pioneered the process now recognized as "progeny testing".Bakewell's fame and that of his farm spread throughout the country and overseas. He engaged in an extensive correspondence and acted as host to all of influence in British and overseas agriculture, but it would appear that he was an over-generous host, since he is known to have been in financial difficulties in about 1789. He was saved from bankruptcy by a public subscription raised to allow him to continue with his breeding experiments; this experience may well have been the reason why he was such a staunch advocate of State funding of agricultural research.[br]Further ReadingWilliam Houseman, 1894, biography, Journal of the Royal Agricultural Society. 1–31. H.C.Parsons, 1957, Robert Bakewell (contains a more detailed account).R.Trow Smith, 1957, A History of British Livestock Husbandry to 1700, London: Routledge \& Kegan Paul.—A History of British Livestock Husbandry 1700 to 1900 (places Bakewell within the context of overall developments).M.L.Ryder, 1983, Sheep and Man, Duckworth (a scientifically detailed account which deals with Bakewell within the context of its particular subject).AP -
22 Hosiery Yarns
(See knitting). All yarns used for knitting are termed hosiery yarns in Leicester, but in America only yarns actually used for knitted footwear come under this term. These yarns are much softer than required for weaving. Miscellaneous Yarns - Goat wools, such as llama and alpaca are employed in spinning. yarns for the knitting trade. Vicuna and camel yarns are used to a limited extent. Ramie yarn is specially employed for knitting gas mantle fabrics. Soft spun flax yams have been used for making underwear fabric. Chenille and other manufactured threads are used to a small extent in warp knitting. Composite yarns, such as union yarns - spun from a mixture of wool and cotton fibres; cordon yarns - cotton and worsted singles, doubled together; wool and rayon or spun silk, cotton and rayon or spun silk are largely used to produce self or two-colour effects. Fancy yarns, such as slub yams, voiles, and curled and loop yarns are also employed. Hosiery Yarns (Cotton) include condenser, hosiery, condenser lisle thread, mercerised and sewing cottons. Condenser yarns are spun in coarse counts from low-grade cotton, Indian and American. They are carded, condensed and mule spun, and possess little twist. Hosiery cotton yarns vary considerably in counts and qualities, practically all varieties of Indian, American and Egyptian being used in varying proportions to obtain suitable mixture for quality and price. Cheaper yarns are carded and mule spun. American and Egyptian cotton yarns are combed mainly with the object of removing seed particles. High-class Egyptian and Sea Islands cotton yarns are super-combed. The chief features of a hosiery cotton yam should be: (1) Regularity; (2) cleanliness; (3) fullness. Regularity prevents the making of cloudy fabric, showing thick and thin places. Cleanliness is essential, as the seed particles clog the eyelet hole in the yam guides and cause breakages. Fullness is desirable to cover the loop interstices. Elasticity and pliability are quite as essential as tensile strength. Yams are usually soft spun and if two-fold soft doubled, average twists in two-fold being 2/10's 61/2T., 2/20's 81/2T., 2/30's 10T., 2/40's 16T., 2/80's 20T. Softer twist less 25 to 30 per cent of average (T= turns per inch). Lisle thread is a comparatively hard-twisted and doubly-gassed thread in which there are no projecting fibres. It is always of a two-fold character, and the doubling twist varies from 24 to 34 turns per inch in 2/60's. It is used largely in the manufacture of ladies' hose tops and feet and for lace hosiery. Mercerised yams are used largely in the fancy trade, a comparatively soft twist again being employed. Sewing cottons for seaming, linking and making-up are specially prepared in two to six cord open and reverse twist. Woollen and Worsted Yarns include lamb's wool, wheeling, skein yarns, gala yams (woollens), worsted, crossbreds, fingering, cashmere, dry spun botany (see under each name). Worsted and crossbred yarns of various qualities are used. These yams are spun softly with " hosiery twist." The drawing may be open, cone or French, and the spinning may take place on cap, ring or flyer frames. The chief essentials of hosiery yarn are softness of fibre, fullness, minimum of twist consistent with the requisite tensile strength, regularity, pliability and elasticity. Cashmere Yarns, as used in the knitted goods industry, are spun from short, loose and weak wools as well as from better qualities by French drawing and mule spinning. A small proportion of real cashmere is used for outer garments. In recent years nylon yarns have been largely employed. -
23 sheep
овца @annually shorn sheep овца-однострига @broad-tailed sheep курдючная овца @cheviot sheep овца породы "шевиот" @Cotswold sheep английская овца "котсволд" (с длинной шерстью до 200 мм) @crossbred sheep кроссбредная овца @down breed sheep английская овца "даун-бред" @fat-tailed sheep курдючная овца @half-blooded sheep кроссбредная овца @half-bred sheep кроссбредная овца @half-breed sheep кроссбредная овца @Highland sheep шотландская грубошёрстная овца @indigenous sheep овца местной породы @Leicester sheep овца породы "лейстер" @Lincoln sheep овца породы "линкольн" @Lonk sheep овца породы "лонк" @Madras sheep мадрасская кроссбредная овца @mature sheep овца в пору стрижки @merino sheep мериносовая овца @migratory sheep кочевая овца @mountain sheep горная овца @mutton sheep мясо-шёрстная овца @Mysore sheep майсорская овца (с шерстью от светло-серого до чёрного цвета) @native sheep местная овца, туземная овца @no-tail sheep кроссбредная бесхвостая овца @open wool sheep овца с малым количеством шерсти на спине @Panama sheep панамская овца @pedigree sheep племенная овца @pure-bred sheep чистокровная овца @romney marsh sheep 1. английская длинношёрстная овца "ромни-марш"; 2. шерсть овец "ромни-марш" @Scotch blackface sheep шотландская черномордая грубошёрстная овца @Somali fat-rumped sheep сомалийская курдючная овца @Tzigaia sheep цигайская овца @wild sheep дикая овца (напр. аргали или муфлон) @wool-and-meat producing sheep мясо-шёрстная овца @ -
24 sheep
овца @annually shorn sheep овца-однострига @broad-tailed sheep курдючная овца @cheviot sheep овца породы "шевиот" @Cotswold sheep английская овца "котсволд" (с длинной шерстью до 200 мм) @crossbred sheep кроссбредная овца @down breed sheep английская овца "даун-бред" @fat-tailed sheep курдючная овца @half-blooded sheep кроссбредная овца @half-bred sheep кроссбредная овца @half-breed sheep кроссбредная овца @Highland sheep шотландская грубошёрстная овца @indigenous sheep овца местной породы @Leicester sheep овца породы "лейстер" @Lincoln sheep овца породы "линкольн" @Lonk sheep овца породы "лонк" @Madras sheep мадрасская кроссбредная овца @mature sheep овца в пору стрижки @merino sheep мериносовая овца @migratory sheep кочевая овца @mountain sheep горная овца @mutton sheep мясо-шёрстная овца @Mysore sheep майсорская овца (с шерстью от светло-серого до чёрного цвета) @native sheep местная овца, туземная овца @no-tail sheep кроссбредная бесхвостая овца @open wool sheep овца с малым количеством шерсти на спине @Panama sheep панамская овца @pedigree sheep племенная овца @pure-bred sheep чистокровная овца @romney marsh sheep 1. английская длинношёрстная овца "ромни-марш"; 2. шерсть овец "ромни-марш" @Scotch blackface sheep шотландская черномордая грубошёрстная овца @Somali fat-rumped sheep сомалийская курдючная овца @Tzigaia sheep цигайская овца @wild sheep дикая овца (напр. аргали или муфлон) @wool-and-meat producing sheep мясо-шёрстная овца @ -
25 Camlet
A fine, thin, plain-weave cloth, woven from camlet yarns, 30-in., 60 yards, usually dyed bright red. Camlet yarn is spun from lustrous wool, Lincoln or Leicester. The Dutch introduced the cloth, but they used camel hair or goat hair. Other qualities are made from hard twisted worsted yarns about 36 X 40 per inch, 2/30's 2/34's. In the 17th century a camlet of wool and silk was used for making gowns. It is mentioned in Pepys Diary, in 1664: " I put on my camelott suit, the best I ever wore in my life." In the latter part of the 17th century camelots of various colours were highly esteemed. First made in Montgomeryshire on the banks of the river Camlet. The true camlet is made in India of camel hair (see Patu Khudrang) -
26 Camelott
A fine, thin, plain-weave cloth, woven from camlet yarns, 30-in., 60 yards, usually dyed bright red. Camlet yarn is spun from lustrous wool, Lincoln or Leicester. The Dutch introduced the cloth, but they used camel hair or goat hair. Other qualities are made from hard twisted worsted yarns about 36 X 40 per inch, 2/30's 2/34's. In the 17th century a camlet of wool and silk was used for making gowns. It is mentioned in Pepys Diary, in 1664: " I put on my camelott suit, the best I ever wore in my life." In the latter part of the 17th century camelots of various colours were highly esteemed. First made in Montgomeryshire on the banks of the river Camlet. The true camlet is made in India of camel hair (see Patu Khudrang) -
27 Lustre Yarns
Wool term for lustre wool such as Lincoln and Leicester which makes strong yarns for fabrics where much wear and strength are required. Single and two-fold counts are produced up to 30's and 2/36's or 2/40's. Mohair and alpaca wools are also termed lustres, and all are worsted yarns. -
28 лейстерская извитая шерсть
Textile: Leicester border wool (44-48-го качества)Универсальный русско-английский словарь > лейстерская извитая шерсть
-
29 Demi-Lustre Wools
These are all included in the "Long wool "class and comprise: - Border, Leicester, Cotswold, Romney Marsh, Roscommon, Wensleydale and Devon wools (see under each name) -
30 Kentucky Sheep
A breed yielding good quality wool. The sheep is a cross from the native with merino, Leicester and other breeds. -
31 Scotch Cross
A wool obtained from a cross between Leicester or Cheviot and black-faced, and is of inferior quality. -
32 Lee, Revd William
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]d. c. 1615[br]English inventor of the first knitting machine, called the stocking frame.[br]It would seem that most of the stories about Lee's invention of the stocking frame cannot be verified by any contemporary evidence, and the first written accounts do not appear until the second half of the seventeenth century. The claim that he was Master of Arts from St John's College, Cambridge, was first made in 1607 but cannot be checked because the records have not survived. The date for the invention of the knitting machine as being 1589 was made at the same time, but again there is no supporting evidence. There is no evidence that Lee was Vicar of Calverton, nor that he was in Holy Orders at all. Likewise there is no evidence for the existence of the woman, whether she was girlfriend, fiancée or wife, who is said to have inspired the invention, and claims regarding the involvement of Queen Elizabeth I and her refusal to grant a patent because the stockings were wool and not silk are also without contemporary foundation. Yet the first known reference shows that Lee was the inventor of the knitting machine, for the partnership agreement between him and George Brooke dated 6 June 1600 states that "William Lee hath invented a very speedy manner of making works usually wrought by knitting needles as stockings, waistcoats and such like". This agreement was to last for twenty-two years, but terminated prematurely when Brooke was executed for high treason in 1603. Lee continued to try and exploit his invention, for in 1605 he described himself as "Master of Arts" when he petitioned the Court of Aldermen of the City of London as the first inventor of an engine to make silk stockings. In 1609 the Weavers' Company of London recorded Lee as "a weaver of silk stockings by engine". These petitions suggest that he was having difficulty in establishing his invention, which may be why in 1612 there is a record of him in Rouen, France, where he hoped to have better fortune. If he had been invited there by Henry IV, his hopes were dashed by the assassination of the king soon afterwards. He was to supply four knitting machines, and there is further evidence that he was in France in 1615, but it is thought that he died in that country soon afterwards.The machine Lee invented was probably the most complex of its day, partly because the need to use silk meant that the needles were very fine. Henson (1970) in 1831 took five pages in his book to describe knitting on a stocking frame which had over 2,066 pieces. To knit a row of stitches took eleven separate stages, and great care and watchfulness were required to ensure that all the loops were equal and regular. This shows how complex the machines were and points to Lee's great achievement in actually making one. The basic principles of its operation remained unaltered throughout its extraordinarily long life, and a few still remained in use commercially in the early 1990s.[br]Further ReadingJ.T.Millington and S.D.Chapman (eds), 1989, Four Centuries of Machine Knitting, Commemorating William Lee's Invention of the Stocking Frame in 1589, Leicester (N.Harte examines the surviving evidence for the life of William Lee and this must be considered as the most up-to-date biographical information).Dictionary of National Biography (this contains only the old stories).Earlier important books covering Lee's life and invention are G.Henson, 1970, History of the Framework Knitters, reprint, Newton Abbot (orig. pub. 1831); and W.Felkin, 1967, History of the Machine-wrought Hosiery and Lace Manufactures, reprint, Newton Abbot (orig. pub. 1867).M.Palmer, 1984, Framework Knitting, Aylesbury (a simple account of the mechanism of the stocking frame).R.L.Hills, "William Lee and his knitting machine", Journal of the Textile Institute 80(2) (a more detailed account).M.Grass and A.Grass, 1967, Stockings for a Queen. The Life of William Lee, the Elizabethan Inventor, London.RLH -
33 Strutt, Jedediah
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]b. 26 July 1726 South Normanton, near Alfreton, Derbyshire, Englandd. 7 May 1797 Derby, England[br]English inventor of a machine for making ribbed knitting.[br]Jedediah Strutt was the second of three sons of William, a small farmer and maltster at South Normanton, near Alfreton, Derbyshire, where the only industry was a little framework knitting. At the age of 14 Jedediah was apprenticed to Ralph Massey, a wheelwright near Derby, and lodged with the Woollats, whose daughter Elizabeth he later married in 1755. He moved to Leicester and in 1754 started farming at Blackwell, where an uncle had died and left him the stock on his farm. It was here that he made his knitting invention.William Lee's knitting machine remained in virtually the same form as he left it until the middle of the eighteenth century. The knitting industry moved away from London into the Midlands and in 1730 a Nottingham workman, using Indian spun yarn, produced the first pair of cotton hose ever made by mechanical means. This industry developed quickly and by 1750 was providing employment for 1,200 frameworkers using both wool and cotton in the Nottingham and Derby areas. It was against this background that Jedediah Strutt obtained patents for his Derby rib machine in 1758 and 1759.The machine was a highly ingenious mechanism, which when placed in front of an ordinary stocking frame enabled the fashionable ribbed stockings to be made by machine instead of by hand. To develop this invention, he formed a partnership first with his brother-in-law, William Woollat, and two leading Derby hosiers, John Bloodworth and Thomas Stamford. This partnership was dissolved in 1762 and another was formed with Woollat and the Nottingham hosier Samuel Need. Strutt's invention was followed by a succession of innovations which enabled framework knitters to produce almost every kind of mesh on their machines. In 1764 the stocking frame was adapted to the making of eyelet holes, and this later lead to the production of lace. In 1767 velvet was made on these frames, and two years later brocade. In this way Strutt's original invention opened up a new era for knitting. Although all these later improvements were not his, he was able to make a fortune from his invention. In 1762 he was made a freeman of Nottingham, but by then he was living in Derby. His business at Derby was concerned mainly with silk hose and he had a silk mill there.It was partly his need for cotton yarn and partly his wealth which led him into partnership with Richard Arkwright, John Smalley and David Thornley to exploit Arkwright's patent for spinning cotton by rollers. Together with Samuel Need, they financed the Arkwright partnership in 1770 to develop the horse-powered mill in Nottingham and then the water-powered mill at Cromford. Strutt gave advice to Arkwright about improving the machinery and helped to hold the partnership together when Arkwright fell out with his first partners. Strutt was also involved, in London, where he had a house, with the parliamentary proceedings over the passing of the Calico Act in 1774, which opened up the trade in British-manufactured all-cotton cloth.In 1776 Strutt financed the construction of his own mill at Helper, about seven miles (11 km) further down the Derwent valley below Cromford. This was followed by another at Milford, a little lower on the river. Strutt was also a partner with Arkwright and others in the mill at Birkacre, near Chorley in Lancashire. The Strutt mills were developed into large complexes for cotton spinning and many experiments were later carried out in them, both in textile machinery and in fireproof construction for the mills themselves. They were also important training schools for engineers.Elizabeth Strutt died in 1774 and Jedediah never married again. The family seem to have lived frugally in spite of their wealth, probably influenced by their Nonconformist background. He had built a house near the mills at Milford, but it was in his Derby house that Jedediah died in 1797. By the time of his death, his son William had long been involved with the business and became a more important cotton spinner than Jedediah.[br]Bibliography1758. British patent no. 722 (Derby rib machine). 1759. British patent no. 734 (Derby rib machine).Further ReadingFor the involvement of Strutt in Arkwright's spinning ventures, there are two books, the earlier of which is R.S.Fitton and A.P.Wadsworth, 1958, The Strutts and the Arkwrights, 1758–1830, Manchester, which has most of the details about Strutt's life. This has been followed by R.S.Fitton, 1989, The Arkwrights, Spinners of Fortune, Manchester.R.L.Hills, 1970, Power in the Industrial Revolution, Manchester (for a general background to the textile industry of the period).W.Felkin, 1967, History of the Machine-wrought Hosiery and Lace Manufactures, reprint, Newton Abbot (orig. pub. 1867) (covers Strutt's knitting inventions).RLH
Страницы
- 1
- 2
См. также в других словарях:
Leicester — Leicester1 [les′tər] n. any of a breed of large sheep with long, coarse wool, and, usually, an open face, originally developed in Leicestershire Leicester2 [les′tər] Earl of ( Robert Dudley) 1532? 88; Eng. courtier & general: favorite of… … English World dictionary
Leicester — /les teuhr/, n. 1. 1st Earl of. See Dudley, Robert. 2. a city in Leicestershire, in central England. 290,600. 3. Leicestershire. 4. one of an English breed of large sheep, noted for its coarse, long wool and large yield of mutton. * * * I City… … Universalium
Leicester — I. noun Etymology: Leicester, county in England Date: 1798 1. an individual of a breed of white faced long wool sheep having a massive body and heavy fleece that was originally developed in England and extensively used in the development of… … New Collegiate Dictionary
Leicester — I. /ˈlɛstə/ (say lestuh) noun Robert Dudley, Earl of, 1532?–1588, English statesman; favourite of Elizabeth I. II. /ˈlɛstə/ (say lestuh) noun a city in central England, in Leicester unitary district, in Leicestershire, on the Soar. III. /ˈlɛstə/… …
Leicester — Leices•ter [[t]ˈlɛs tər[/t]] n. 1) big 1st Earl of Dudley 1) Robert. 2) geg a city in Leicestershire, in central England. 293,400 3) geg Leicestershire 4) ahb. one of an English breed of large sheep, noted for its coarse, long wool and large… … From formal English to slang
Border Leicester (sheep) — The Border Leicester (Leicester is pronounced Lester ) is an English long wool breed of sheep. They are large, robust polled sheep, with no wool on their face or legs.DescriptionThe live weight of a mature ram will be in the range of 140 175 kg… … Wikipedia
English Leicester (sheep) — a Leicester Longwool at Colonial Williamsburg English Leicester are an English breed of sheep. Alternate names for the breed include: Leicester, Bakewell Leicester, Dishley Leicester, Improved Leicester, Leicester Longwool, and New Leicester.… … Wikipedia
long-wool — adjective (of sheep) having relatively long wool • Syn: ↑long wooled • Similar to: ↑long * * * adjective or long wooled ˈ ̷ ̷| ̷ ̷ Etymology: long + wool or wooled, from wool + ed … Useful english dictionary
luster wool — noun : coarse glossy wool from long wool sheep (as Lincoln and Leicester) called also braid wool … Useful english dictionary
Bluefaced Leicester — Bluefaced Leicesters are a Longwool breed of sheep which originate from Northumberland and were made known at the beginning of the 20th century.They have curly threadlike wool which makes it considerably lighter than others. Some fleeces only… … Wikipedia
long wool — long wool, wool from four to eight inches long, produced by Lincoln, Leicester, Cotswold, and some other sheep … Useful english dictionary
