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41 Chasing
Finishing term (see Calendering). A variety of finish which gives an imitation " Beetle Finish," and is obtained by running two pieces of cloth together, and face to face, through a five or six-bowl calender. A pin head effect is given to the cloth. At the two cloths are run through the machine face to face, neither face is in contact with a bowl. The fabric has a characteristic threadiness about it not obtained by any other method, the threads are round and not at all flattened. -
42 Cluny Lace
A lace similar to torchon. The designs are usually geometrical, wheels, etc., and are made with coarse linen thread with bobbins. The machine imitation is of cotton. The hand-made is used for lingerie and dresses and the coarser kinds for pillows, centre-pieces, etc. -
43 Crisper
A machine which curls the pile in imitation chinchillas and other fabrics to resemble the fur. -
44 Marseilles Quilts
A compound fabric consisting of two plain cloths joined together by a figuring warp to produce a pattern. Between the two cloths is inserted wadding weft of coarse yarn. A jacquard machine and heald shafts are required to weave the cloth. The healds weave the plain cloth, while the patterning ends are operated by the jacquard. Each pattern card serves for ten picks, viz., four picks of fine weft for the face cloth, four from the same shuttle for the back cloth, and two picks of coarse weft for wadding. The cloth can be woven from one beam, but two beams allow the tension on the stitching threads to be more correctly adjusted. The various qualities are termed 4-pick, 5-pick, etc., according to the number of picks woven for each jacquard card. One cloth is made 72 face ends 1/100's, 24 back ends, 20's, 40 face picks 32's, 40 back picks 32's, and 20 wadding picks 16's per inch, all cotton yarns. This cloth is an imitation of an Eastern fabric used as quilts, and made from a pure plain woven cloth, two pieces of the cloth being placed together one on the top of the other, and a thick cotton wadding placed between, the whole being stitched together by hand. Where no stitches were used the cloth bulged owing to the wadding between. -
45 Plauen Lace
German-made lace fabric in which designs in cotton or silk are embroidered on a wool foundation and the wool is afterwards dissolved away by an alkali solution, leaving the lace intact. Mostly made in imitation of the beautiful Point de Venise and other laces. Plauen lace is made on the Schiffli machine and is very frail. -
46 Point D'lrelande Lace
Coarse machine-made lace in imitation of Venetian point.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Point D'lrelande Lace
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47 St. Gall Lace
ST. GALL LACEA machine-made imitation of Venetian lace. -
48 Swiss Lace
A Swiss machine-made embroidered net in imitation of Brussels. Also known as Broderie Anglaise. Made at Neufchatel of fine cotton thread. Nottingham manufacturers produce imitations in coarser cotton for use as curtains.
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