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he+is+not+figuring+on

  • 1 Planting

    The term applied to a process in weaving by which coloured threads are interchanged. By this method two or more colours are woven to occupy the space of one pick, the planted wefts float on the underside when not figuring on the surface. They weave without making rows on the face across the piece.

    Dictionary of the English textile terms > Planting

  • 2 Toilet Cloths

    TOILET CLOTHS, TOILETINGS
    Terms applied to a number of fabrics such as bed quilts or counterpanes, dressing-table covers, and connote a distinctive type of fabric, the chief feature of which is a face cloth in the plain weave, stitched down according to a prearranged design by means of a tightly-woven binding warp. This causes the figure to stand out in relief, and this feature is enhanced when wadding weft is used. Many qualities are made, including loose-backs, e.g., those in which the tight figuring threads float at the back when not forming figure; half-fast backs in which the figuring threads are partly bound by interlacing with some back picks; and fast backs, in which there is a back pick for every card so that the figuring ends are well bound at the back, usually in the plain weave. The cloths are known as 2-pick, 3-pick, 4-pick, 5-pick and 6-pick toilets according to the number of picks inserted at each figuring shed.

    Dictionary of the English textile terms > Toilet Cloths

  • 3 Toiletings

    TOILET CLOTHS, TOILETINGS
    Terms applied to a number of fabrics such as bed quilts or counterpanes, dressing-table covers, and connote a distinctive type of fabric, the chief feature of which is a face cloth in the plain weave, stitched down according to a prearranged design by means of a tightly-woven binding warp. This causes the figure to stand out in relief, and this feature is enhanced when wadding weft is used. Many qualities are made, including loose-backs, e.g., those in which the tight figuring threads float at the back when not forming figure; half-fast backs in which the figuring threads are partly bound by interlacing with some back picks; and fast backs, in which there is a back pick for every card so that the figuring ends are well bound at the back, usually in the plain weave. The cloths are known as 2-pick, 3-pick, 4-pick, 5-pick and 6-pick toilets according to the number of picks inserted at each figuring shed.

    Dictionary of the English textile terms > Toiletings

  • 4 Carpets

    The principal types are Axminster, Brussels and Wilton, and brief particulars of each are given below. A more detailed description is given under each name. Axminster is a cut fabric made any width and with any number of colours. It is not produced on a jacquard, therefore the pile does not show on the back. The design is developed by a series of tufts which are bound into the fabric, every tuft is on the surface and only the foundation cloth is seen at the back. There are two principal varieties of these carpets, the Chenille Axminster and the Machine tufted Axminster. The Chenille type is made by two distinct operations, that of manufacturing the chenille weft and that of weaving the carpet with this weft. The " fur or chenille is first woven on an ordinary loom (see chenille) and when cut into the strips is used as weft with a linen, jute or folded cotton warp. The chenille is made preferably with the leno way of shedding in order to bind the wool yarn more firmly. All the figuring weft is on the surface and not embedded in the fabric. The chenille weft is often inserted by hand, but several mechanical methods for doing the work are now in use. From three to six tufts per inch are usual. The chenille Axminster Carpet is also known as the Patent Axminster carpet. The machine-tufted type or Royal Axminster is also formed from pile tufts previously prepared and afterwards woven in the ground warp and bound into the fabric with a binding weft. The tufts may be inserted by hand and the pile is all on the surface of the fabric. This pile is a warp product, whereas for the chenille variety it is weft. Axminster carpets are a product of skill and patience and any number of colours can be used. There are several varieties of machine-made axminster carpets. Wilton is a cut pile fabric woven 27-in. wide from not more than six colours, the yarns are fine counts and design produced by jacquards. Brussels is made almost in the same way as a Wilton, but the pile is not cut and this shows as loops on the face. The yarn is much coarser than for Wiltons. Kidderminster - A carpet made from two or more plain cloths woven together. Each cloth is brought on the face for figuring as required. Turkish - These are hand made. The pile is put into the ground warp by hand as tufts and knotted round them according to pattern. There are two picks of ground weft between each row of pile. Tapestry - Carpets woven from printed warps. The pile is cut or left uncut as required for the design. Persian - Carpets similar to Turkish, being hand made. See also Axminster, Brussels, Kidderminster, Persian Tapestry, Turkish, Wilton Carpets, Body Brussels, Brusselette, Ingrain.

    Dictionary of the English textile terms > Carpets

  • 5 Broche

    (1) A loom embroidered fabric where the figuring is produced by swivel shuttles. Made from all-silk yarns. The fabrics are very expensive. An example of a broche is shown in the illustration - woven with four swivel shuttles. There is thus no waste of figuring yam by this method. This cloth is of French make. (2) The French term for brocaded fabrics in which the ornament is produced by additional threads that do not form part of the structure itself. The extra threads float at the back when not used for figure, and the floats are removed during finishing

    Dictionary of the English textile terms > Broche

  • 6 К-303

    ПУСКАТЬ/ПУСТИТЬ КОРНИ VP
    1. - (где) (subj: human to settle down or be settled down in some place (which one makes his permanent home, where one raises his family, becomes part of the community etc)
    X пустил корни в месте Y = X put (set) down roots (in place Y).
    Когда мы покидали Москву, писатели ещё не были привилегированным сословием, а сейчас они пускали корни и обдумывали, как бы им сохранить свои привилегии (Мандельштам 1). At the time we left Moscow for exile, the writers had not yet become a privileged caste, but now they were putting down roots and figuring out ways of keeping their privileges (1a).
    ...Ещё до японской войны пришёл в Атамановку... переселенец Андрей Сивый с двумя сыновьями... Один из его сыновей не пришёл с германской, а второго в тридцатом году раскулачили и вместе с семьей куда-то выслали. Так и не пустил переселенец Андрей Сивый корни на новой земле (Распутин 2)....Back before the Russo-Japanese War a man called Andrei Sivy and his two sons had moved to Atamanovka....One of his sons never came back from World War I, and the second was declared a kulak and he and his wife were exiled somewhere. So old Andrei Sivy never did set down roots in his new land (2a).
    2. - (в ком-чём, в кого-что) ( subj: abstr) (of some feeling, habit, phenomenon etc) to become firmly established, become ingrained (in some person, group of people, in life etc)
    X пустил корни (в Y-e) - X took root (in Y)
    X put down (its) roots X became (was) deeply rooted (in Y).
    Не успело ещё пагубное двоевластие пустить зловредные свои корни, как из губернии прибыл рассыльный... (Салтыков-Щедрин 1). Before the ruinous diarchy could put down its pernicious roots, a courier arrived from the provincial capital... (1a).
    Нет. Уж если демагогические навыки, привитые мне всем воспитанием, пустили в моём сознании такие глубокие корни, что я не могу сейчас дать самостоятельного анализа положения в стране и партии, то буду руководствоваться просто голосом совести (Гинзбург 1). No, if the demagogic habits of mind I had been trained in were so deeply rooted in me that I could not now make an independent analysis of the situation in the country and the Party, then I would be guided simply by the voice of my conscience (1b).

    Большой русско-английский фразеологический словарь > К-303

  • 7 пускать корни

    ПУСКАТЬ/ПУСТИТЬ КОРНИ
    [VP]
    =====
    1. пускать корни (где) [subj: human]
    to settle down or be settled down in some place (which one makes his permanent home, where one raises his family, becomes part of the community etc):
    - X пустил корни в месте Y X put (set) down roots (in place Y).
         ♦ Когда мы покидали Москву, писатели ещё не были привилегированным сословием, а сейчас они пускали корни и обдумывали, как бы им сохранить свои привилегии (Мандельштам 1). At the time we left Moscow for exile, the writers had not yet become a privileged caste, but now they were putting down roots and figuring out ways of keeping their privileges (1a).
         ♦...Ещё до японской войны пришёл в Атамановку... переселенец Андрей Сивый с двумя сыновьями... Один из его сыновей не пришёл с германской, а второго в тридцатом году раскулачили и вместе с семьей куда-то выслали. Так и не пустил переселенец Андрей Сивый корни на новой земле (Распутин 2)....Back before the Russo-Japanese War a man called Andrei Sivy and his two sons had moved to Atamanovka....One of his sons never came back from World War I, and the second was declared a kulak and he and his wife were exiled somewhere. So old Andrei Sivy never did set down roots in his new land (2a).
    2. пускать корни (в ком-чём, в кого-что) [subj: abstr]
    (of some feeling, habit, phenomenon etc) to become firmly established, become ingrained (in some person, group of people, in life etc):
    - X became (was) deeply rooted (in Y).
         ♦ Не успело ещё пагубное двоевластие пустить зловредные свои корни, как из губернии прибыл рассыльный... (Салтыков-Щедрин 1). Before the ruinous diarchy could put down its pernicious roots, a courier arrived from the provincial capital... (1a).
         ♦ Нет. Уж если демагогические навыки, привитые мне всем воспитанием, пустили в моём сознании такие глубокие корни, что я не могу сейчас дать самостоятельного анализа положения в стране и партии, то буду руководствоваться просто голосом совести (Г инзбург 1). No; if the demagogic habits of mind I had been trained in were so deeply rooted in me that I could not now make an independent analysis of the situation in the country and the Party, then I would be guided simply by the voice of my conscience (1b).

    Большой русско-английский фразеологический словарь > пускать корни

  • 8 пустить корни

    ПУСКАТЬ/ПУСТИТЬ КОРНИ
    [VP]
    =====
    1. пустить корни (где) [subj: human]
    to settle down or be settled down in some place (which one makes his permanent home, where one raises his family, becomes part of the community etc):
    - X пустил корни в месте Y X put (set) down roots (in place Y).
         ♦ Когда мы покидали Москву, писатели ещё не были привилегированным сословием, а сейчас они пускали корни и обдумывали, как бы им сохранить свои привилегии (Мандельштам 1). At the time we left Moscow for exile, the writers had not yet become a privileged caste, but now they were putting down roots and figuring out ways of keeping their privileges (1a).
         ♦...Ещё до японской войны пришёл в Атамановку... переселенец Андрей Сивый с двумя сыновьями... Один из его сыновей не пришёл с германской, а второго в тридцатом году раскулачили и вместе с семьей куда-то выслали. Так и не пустил переселенец Андрей Сивый корни на новой земле (Распутин 2)....Back before the Russo-Japanese War a man called Andrei Sivy and his two sons had moved to Atamanovka....One of his sons never came back from World War I, and the second was declared a kulak and he and his wife were exiled somewhere. So old Andrei Sivy never did set down roots in his new land (2a).
    2. пустить корни (в ком-чём, в кого-что) [subj: abstr]
    (of some feeling, habit, phenomenon etc) to become firmly established, become ingrained (in some person, group of people, in life etc):
    - X became (was) deeply rooted (in Y).
         ♦ Не успело ещё пагубное двоевластие пустить зловредные свои корни, как из губернии прибыл рассыльный... (Салтыков-Щедрин 1). Before the ruinous diarchy could put down its pernicious roots, a courier arrived from the provincial capital... (1a).
         ♦ Нет. Уж если демагогические навыки, привитые мне всем воспитанием, пустили в моём сознании такие глубокие корни, что я не могу сейчас дать самостоятельного анализа положения в стране и партии, то буду руководствоваться просто голосом совести (Г инзбург 1). No; if the demagogic habits of mind I had been trained in were so deeply rooted in me that I could not now make an independent analysis of the situation in the country and the Party, then I would be guided simply by the voice of my conscience (1b).

    Большой русско-английский фразеологический словарь > пустить корни

  • 9 cálculo

    m.
    1 calculation, figuring, computation, estimate.
    2 calculation, guess, conjecture.
    3 calculus.
    4 calculus, stone.
    * * *
    1 calculation, estimate
    2 (conjetura) conjecture, reckoning
    3 MATEMÁTICAS calculus
    4 MEDICINA gallstone
    \
    cálculo biliar bile stone
    cálculo mental mental arithmetic
    * * *
    noun m.
    2) reckoning, estimate
    * * *
    SM
    1) [gen] calculation, reckoning; (=conjetura) estimate, conjecture; (Mat) calculus

    según mis cálculos — by my reckoning, by my calculations

    cálculo de costo — costing, pricing (EEUU)

    2) (Med) stone
    * * *
    1) (Mat)
    a) ( operación) calculation
    b) ( disciplina) calculus
    2) (plan, conjetura)

    fue un error de cálculo — I/he/they misjudged o miscalculated

    3) (Med) stone, calculus (tech)
    * * *
    1) (Mat)
    a) ( operación) calculation
    b) ( disciplina) calculus
    2) (plan, conjetura)

    fue un error de cálculo — I/he/they misjudged o miscalculated

    3) (Med) stone, calculus (tech)
    * * *
    cálculo1
    1 = arithmetic, calculation, calculus [calculuses, -pl.], computation, counting, estimation, calculability, reckoning.

    Ex: Since the system's arithmetic depends upon the way amounts of money are entered, standards for entry for the various currencies must be established.

    Ex: For example, without scanning the entire index it is impossible to estimate the total number of relevant documents in the system, a figure that is required in the calculation of recall.
    Ex: He is not even a man who can readily perform the transformations of equations by the use of calculus.
    Ex: Frequently numeric data bases and the hosts which support them permit some computation and manipulation of the retrieved data.
    Ex: Rapid electrical counting appeared soon after the physicists found it desirable to count cosmic rays.
    Ex: Our estimation is that we have 845,000 nonunique names in the MARC data base.
    Ex: According to George Ritzer's theory of McDonaldization, services and procedures once subject to the fluctuations of human interaction undergo a rationalization process that emphasizes efficiency, predictability, calculability, and control.
    Ex: On the most superficial reckoning it is a matter of national concern.
    * cálculo aproximado = estimate, ballpark estimate.
    * cálculo matemático = mathematical calculation.
    * centro de cálculo = computer centre, computing centre, central computing facility.
    * error de cálculo = miscalculation, mathematical mistake, mathematical error, calculation error, calculation mistake.
    * hoja de cálculo = spreadsheet.
    * hoja de cálculo electrónica = electronic spreadsheet.
    * procedimiento de cálculo = arithmetic.
    * realizar un cálculo = carry out + calculation.
    * regla de cálculo = slide rule.
    * tabla de cálculo = reckoner, ready reckoner.

    cálculo2
    2 = kidney stone, calculus [calculi, -pl.].

    Ex: The author examines the relationship between tea consumption and oral health, bone health, thermogenesis, cognitive function, and kidney stones.

    Ex: Nephritic colic only appears when a calculus obstructs the ureter, which runs from the kidney to the bladder.
    * cálculo biliar = gallstone.
    * cálculo renal = calculus [calculi, -pl.].

    * * *
    A ( Mat)
    1 (operación) calculation
    según mis cálculos debe faltar poco para llegar according to my calculations o by my reckoning we must be nearly there
    hizo un cálculo aproximado de los gastos she made a rough estimate of the costs
    2 (disciplina) calculus
    Compuestos:
    calculation of probabilities
    differential calculus
    integral calculus
    mental arithmetic
    B
    (plan, conjetura): eso no entraba en mis cálculos I hadn't allowed for that in my plans o calculations
    le fallaron los cálculos things didn't work out as he had hoped o planned
    superó los cálculos más optimistas it exceeded even the most optimistic estimates
    fue un error de cálculo I/he/they misjudged o miscalculated
    C ( Med) stone, calculus ( tech)
    Compuestos:
    gallstone, bilestone
    kidney stone, renal calculus ( tech)
    * * *

     

    Del verbo calcular: ( conjugate calcular)

    calculo es:

    1ª persona singular (yo) presente indicativo

    calculó es:

    3ª persona singular (él/ella/usted) pretérito indicativo

    Multiple Entries:
    calcular    
    cálculo
    calcular ( conjugate calcular) verbo transitivo
    1


    b) ( evaluar) ‹pérdidas/gastas to estimate

    c) ( conjeturar) to reckon, to guess (esp AmE);

    yo le calculo unos sesenta años I reckon o guess he's about sixty


    2 ( planear) to work out;

    cálculo sustantivo masculino
    1 (Mat)


    hizo un cálculo aproximado she made a rough estimate;
    cálculo mental mental arithmetic

    2 ( plan):
    eso no entraba en mis cálculos I hadn't allowed for that in my plans o calculations;

    le fallaron los cálculos things didn't work out as he had planned;
    un error de cálculo a miscalculation
    3 (Med) stone, calculus (tech)
    calcular verbo transitivo
    1 Mat to calculate
    2 (evaluar, estimar) to (make an) estimate: no supe calcular los riesgos, I was not able to determine the risks
    calculé mal la distancia y me caí, I failed to gauge the distance and I fell
    3 (conjeturar) to reckon, guess: calculo que mañana podré ir al museo, I guess I'll be able to go to the museum tomorrow
    cálculo sustantivo masculino
    1 (operación matemática) calculation
    2 (previsión, conjetura) reckoning
    según mis cálculos, by my reckoning
    3 Med gallstone
    4 Mat (disciplina) calculus
    ' cálculo' also found in these entries:
    Spanish:
    antecesor
    - antecesora
    - calcular
    - cuenta
    - error
    - estimativa
    - estimativo
    - exagerada
    - exagerado
    - hoja
    - margen
    - por
    - presupuesto
    - aproximado
    - balance
    - estimación
    - expulsar
    - piedra
    - ponderar
    - sacar
    - vuelo
    English:
    assessment
    - calculation
    - computation
    - computing
    - estimate
    - estimation
    - gallstone
    - miscalculation
    - printout
    - reckoning
    - rough
    - spreadsheet
    - stone
    - sum
    - allow
    - conservative
    - gall
    - judgment
    - mark
    - quantity
    - slide
    - spread
    * * *
    1. [operación] calculation;
    hacer un cálculo aproximado to estimate, to make an estimate;
    hacer cálculos to do some calculations;
    estamos haciendo cálculos para saber cuánta gente vendrá we're trying to work out how many people are going to come
    Com cálculo de costos costing;
    cálculo mental: [m5] hacer cálculos mentales to do mental arithmetic
    2. [ciencia] calculus
    cálculo diferencial differential calculus;
    cálculo infinitesimal infinitesimal calculus;
    cálculo integral integral calculus
    3. [evaluación] estimate;
    si no me fallan los cálculos,… if my calculations are correct,…;
    según mis cálculos, llegaremos a las cinco by my reckoning, we'll arrive at five o'clock
    cálculo de probabilidades probability theory
    4. Med stone, Espec calculus
    cálculo biliar gallstone;
    cálculo renal kidney stone
    * * *
    m
    1 calculation
    2 MED stone
    * * *
    1) : calculation, estimation
    2) : calculus
    3) : plan, scheme
    4)
    cálculo biliar : gallstone
    5)
    hoja de cálculo : spreadsheet
    * * *
    cálculo n calculation

    Spanish-English dictionary > cálculo

  • 10 в расчете

    I
    [PrepP; Invar; subj-compl with быть (subj: human)) not obliged or indebted to s.o. in any way: X с Y-ом в расчете X and Y are even; X is (all) square with Y; X doesn't owe Y < Y doesn't owe X> a thing; [in refer, to money only]
    =====
    X doesn't owe Y < Y doesn't owe X> a kopeck <a penny, a cent>.
    II
    [PrepP; these forms only; the resulting PrepP is adv]
    =====
    expecting, anticipating, or hoping for sth. or that sth. will come to pass:
    - in the hope that.
         Его [Михаила] удивил яркий свет в своей избе, который он увидел еще от задних воротец. Не иначе как зажгли новую... лампу, которую он купил нынешней весной в расчёте на хорошие перемены в жизни (Абрамов 1). Не [Mikhail] was surprised by the bright light in his house, which he noticed from the back gate. They must have lit the new...lamp that he had bought that spring in anticipation of changes for the better (1a).
         ♦ [Репников:] Да понимаешь ли ты, что этот прохвост пришёл сюда в расчете, что ты ему поможешь? (Вампилов 3). [R.:] Do you realize that scoundrel came here counting on you to help him? (3b)
         ♦...[Строители] станут планировать жилье с расчётом на эти бараки. Раз стоят [бараки], - значит, жить можно, мало ли что некрасиво и неудобно - не до жиру, быть бы живу (Тендряков 1). [context transl]... [The builders] would take these barracks into account in planning future housing needs. Since they [the barracks] were already there, they would argue, people might as well stay in them, in spite of the fact that they were ugly and inconvenient: beggars couldn't be choosers (1a)

    Большой русско-английский фразеологический словарь > в расчете

  • 11 cho’t

    (Russian) abacus; calculation, estimate, computation, figuring. xom cho’t qil to make a rough estimate. cho’t bermaydi to be worthless. cho’t Emas nothing, not a thing

    Uzbek-English dictionary > cho’t

  • 12 Damask

    A cotton cloth woven with jacquard designs and used for table covers, napkins, curtains, upholstery cloth, etc. They can be reversible or one-sided only. Designs may be floral or geometrical. Yams 8's to 40's warp and weft. The ground and figure are bound by uniform weaves, generally twill or satin. The figure is developed by interchanging the warp and weft and the pattern so made up that the reflection of light on the threads brings out the effect. Linen and silk damasks only differ in material, as cotton damasks are made in very fine yarns. ———————— A fabric of single structure formed by two satin weaves with figure developed in warp and ground in weft satin weaves resulting in a design that shows very clearly as a warp figure on a weft ground. The figure can be made more prominent by using coloured yam. For table damasks a cotton warp with linen weft is often used. Damasks are made in numerous qualities, but all are figured in the five- or eight-shaft satin weaves. As early as the reign of Henry VIII a damask was a rich figured satin or linen and a damask was known in England as early as the 13th century. The name is derived from Damascus and is presumed to refer to the design and not the material. The finest linen damask is woven about 126 ends and 188 picks per inch from superior flax yarns. The finished sizes vary up to 90-in. wide, 6 yards long, and as a rule damask napkins and table tops can be obtained to match. Standard cloths of single damask are made: - Five-end satin, 60-ends and 56 picks per inch, 50's T., 35's lea W., boiled; 8-end satin, 80 ends and 76 picks per inch, 50's T., 60's lea W., boiled (see Double Damask) ———————— Originally an all-silk fabric with large designs developed in many colours. It was a heavy cloth with satin ground and weft figure. Imitations are now made with cotton warp and cotton or rayon weft. Used for dresses, and when very heavy for curtains, furnishings, dancing shoes, etc. The brocade effects are developed in colour or fancy weaves. Damasse Arabesque has arabesque designs. Damasse Brocat has gold and silver weft for figuring. Damasse Broche has flowered designs. Damasse Cachenir has palm leaf designs. Damasse Chine has printed silk warps. Damasse Egyptien has Egyptian designs. Damasse Jardinier is an expensive damask made with silk warp and fine mercerised cotton weft. The design is of detached flowers in colours. Many coloured wefts are used.

    Dictionary of the English textile terms > Damask

  • 13 Float

    There is also the float that is not required and which is a most objectionable fault in any cloth. It is often caused by careless weaving, although inferior yarn is very liable to produce this fault. End breakages, incorrect shedding, faulty action of the shedding mechanism, wrongly pegged dobby lags, wrongly cut jacquard cards, etc., are prolific causes of floats. ———————— Warp or weft threads which pass over the threads of the opposite series are said to be floated, and in twill, satin crepe and other weaves the length of the float is named in terms of the number of threads the floating thread passes over between two intersections. In very many cloths the sole means of figuring is the floating of the warp or weft according to a defined and prearranged plan.

    Dictionary of the English textile terms > Float

  • 14 Lappets

    Cloths of a light muslin character with plain ground weave and figuring produced by zig-zagging extra warp ends over the top of associated warp threads, but not interweaving with them. The lappet threads lie in the same direction as the weft, and are bound at the extremities of the figure, e.g., at the reversing points by passing underneath picks of weft. Each figure is made from one thread only, which is drawn through the eye of a needle fixed in a frame in front of the reed. The movement of the frame is controlled by a groove cut in a circular disc of wood. This is known as the " Scotch lappet motion," and is the most generally used.

    Dictionary of the English textile terms > Lappets

  • 15 Whip Threads

    The extra warp threads which form the figuring in lappet cloths. These threads do not interweave with the other warp threads, but zigzag to and fro in forming the figure and are held permanently in position by passing underneath picks of weft at the reversing points.

    Dictionary of the English textile terms > Whip Threads

  • 16 Heathcote, John

    SUBJECT AREA: Textiles
    [br]
    b. 7 August 1783 Duffield, Derbyshire, England
    d. 18 January 1861 Tiverton, Devonshire, England
    [br]
    English inventor of the bobbin-net lace machine.
    [br]
    Heathcote was the son of a small farmer who became blind, obliging the family to move to Long Whatton, near Loughborough, c.1790. He was apprenticed to W.Shepherd, a hosiery-machine maker, and became a frame-smith in the hosiery industry. He moved to Nottingham where he entered the employment of an excellent machine maker named Elliott. He later joined William Caldwell of Hathern, whose daughter he had married. The lace-making apparatus they patented jointly in 1804 had already been anticipated, so Heathcote turned to the problem of making pillow lace, a cottage industry in which women made lace by arranging pins stuck in a pillow in the correct pattern and winding around them thread contained on thin bobbins. He began by analysing the complicated hand-woven lace into simple warp and weft threads and found he could dispense with half the bobbins. The first machine he developed and patented, in 1808, made narrow lace an inch or so wide, but the following year he made much broader lace on an improved version. In his second patent, in 1809, he could make a type of net curtain, Brussels lace, without patterns. His machine made bobbin-net by the use of thin brass discs, between which the thread was wound. As they passed through the warp threads, which were arranged vertically, the warp threads were moved to each side in turn, so as to twist the bobbin threads round the warp threads. The bobbins were in two rows to save space, and jogged on carriages in grooves along a bar running the length of the machine. As the strength of this fabric depended upon bringing the bobbin threads diagonally across, in addition to the forward movement, the machine had to provide for a sideways movement of each bobbin every time the lengthwise course was completed. A high standard of accuracy in manufacture was essential for success. Called the "Old Loughborough", it was acknowledged to be the most complicated machine so far produced. In partnership with a man named Charles Lacy, who supplied the necessary capital, a factory was established at Loughborough that proved highly successful; however, their fifty-five frames were destroyed by Luddites in 1816. Heathcote was awarded damages of £10,000 by the county of Nottingham on the condition it was spent locally, but to avoid further interference he decided to transfer not only his machines but his entire workforce elsewhere and refused the money. In a disused woollen factory at Tiverton in Devonshire, powered by the waters of the river Exe, he built 300 frames of greater width and speed. By continually making inventions and improvements until he retired in 1843, his business flourished and he amassed a large fortune. He patented one machine for silk cocoon-reeling and another for plaiting or braiding. In 1825 he brought out two patents for the mechanical ornamentation or figuring of lace. He acquired a sound knowledge of French prior to opening a steam-powered lace factory in France. The factory proved to be a successful venture that lasted many years. In 1832 he patented a monstrous steam plough that is reputed to have cost him over £12,000 and was claimed to be the best in its day. One of its stated aims was "improved methods of draining land", which he hoped would develop agriculture in Ireland. A cable was used to haul the implement across the land. From 1832 to 1859, Heathcote represented Tiverton in Parliament and, among other benefactions, he built a school for his adopted town.
    [br]
    Bibliography
    1804, with William Caldwell, British patent no. 2,788 (lace-making machine). 1808. British patent no. 3,151 (machine for making narrow lace).
    1809. British patent no. 3,216 (machine for making Brussels lace). 1813, British patent no. 3,673.
    1825, British patent no. 5,103 (mechanical ornamentation of lace). 1825, British patent no. 5,144 (mechanical ornamentation of lace).
    Further Reading
    V.Felkin, 1867, History of the Machine-wrought Hosiery and Lace Manufacture, Nottingham (provides a full account of Heathcote's early life and his inventions).
    A.Barlow, 1878, The History and Principles of Weaving by Hand and by Power, London (provides more details of his later years).
    W.G.Allen, 1958 John Heathcote and His Heritage (biography).
    M.R.Lane, 1980, The Story of the Steam Plough Works, Fowlers of Leeds, London (for comments about Heathcote's steam plough).
    W.English, 1969, The Textile Industry, London, and C.Singer (ed.), 1958, A History of
    Technology, Vol. V, Oxford: Clarendon Press (both describe the lace-making machine).
    RLH

    Biographical history of technology > Heathcote, John

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