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101 Crimp Fabrics
The term includes such types as the "blister" and the "crepon." These fabrics are used for the making of dress goods, and can be produced in five different ways, namely: (a) by making suitable combinations of slack and tight weaves; (b) unequal warp tension in weaving, the crimp forming warp threads being allowed to weave very slack; (c) by combining two materials having a marked dissimilarity of shrinkage power during wet finishing, i.e., botany wool and mohair; (d) by modifying the weave structure in such a manner as to drop some picks from the main fabric and allow them to float on the back, the effectiveness of this method is enhanced by using a hard-twisted, single weft yarn to assist the contraction; (e) chemical means, such as is produced by printing the cloth in stripes with caustic soda of about 20 per cent strength, thickened with some substance such as starch. The cloth shrinks where printed and the unprinted parts in puckering gives the crimp effect. By dyeing the cloth two tones are obtained as a darker shade is shown where the caustic soda appears (see crepeing and crimps)
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102 Planting
The term applied to a process in weaving by which coloured threads are interchanged. By this method two or more colours are woven to occupy the space of one pick, the planted wefts float on the underside when not figuring on the surface. They weave without making rows on the face across the piece.
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