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21 Derbend Rugs
Medium and large size rugs made in Caucasia. The ground is of goat-hair, with long, soft pile tied in all-wool, occasionally of Ghiordes knot, and having a fine lustre. The weave is loose. The designs are geometrical, star patterns often occurring. The chief colours are red, yellow and blue. The ends of the rugs are finished with long, knotted fringes. The rugs have a rather coarse appearance. -
22 Dimity
DIMITY (U.S.A.)A fabric woven on two shafts with faint cords, usually printed in small patterns on a white ground, but also sold white or dyed. Much used for ladies' or children's summer wear. A standard cloth is 37-in. grey, 34/5-in. finished. The cords are made by weaving two or three ends together as one, threaded through the same mail eye. ———————— This term was given by Indian traders to a cotton cloth of the fustian character, and usually figured with raised stripes, the stripes giving an appearance of embossing due to the thick weft floats. Today the dimity is understood to be a light cloth in the plain weave, but with cords lengthwise of the cloth. Made 38-in. wide, 70 ends and 64 picks per inch, 46's ground twist and 2/14's cords, 44's weft. -
23 Duvetyn
Is made from a twofold cotton warp and schappe silk weft in the 1 X 3 weft twill weave. Finished by raising, cropping and brushing the face of the fabric. Dyed grey and brown and looks like doeskin. Used for collars, trimmings, handbags, etc. The name is derived from the French word " duvet " meaning " down " and is thus meant to be a soft downy fabric. The finishing process is a specialised one as the cloth has to be washed, dyed, raised on the face by emery rollers, cropped, and singed in order',to produce a very soft and velvet finish. Also known as " Mouse-skin." Another variety is made with a worsted warp and tussah weft and slightly raised on the face; weave, 4-shaft twill, 1 X 3 lift, weft face, in 56-in. width. ———————— A very soft woollen fabric resembling velvet and having a fine short nap that is raised during the process of finishing and gives the material a silky appearance. Used for coats, suits and dresses. -
24 Estamenes
A 2 & 2 twill worsted cloth, loosely woven from rough yarns. The cloth, when finished, has a fuzzy fibrous appearance, due to the " napping " of the fibres during the process of milling. Made to imitate the French cloth " estame," which is a knitted worsted. One weave is made with 56 ends and 56 picks per inch from 2/36's worsted warp and weft. A cheaper cloth is made 56 ends and 56 picks per inch of 2/36's warp, 20's weft, all worsted. The cloth is also known as Tammy. -
25 Flax Damask
A figured fabric, made with linen warp and linen weft. Both the figuring and the ground are in the satin weave. If the figure is warp satin, the ground is weft satin, and vice versa. The cloth is finished to give a lustrous appearance to the ornament, while the ground appears dull. This effect is reversed by a different incidence of light on the fabric. -
26 Fustian Cord
A heavy type of velvet fabric, woven from all cotton in the design A. The ground or back weave is 2 & 2 twill. The binding of the pile picks is arranged so that when the pile is cut, short tufts alternate with longer tufts, and in the finished cloth the pile thereby acquires a rounded or cord appearance. This effect is enhanced when the cloth has more pile picks per inch of a finer weft, and then becomes suitable for use as dress goods. This is known as "velvet cord," a suitable make being 40 ends per inch of 2/60's warp, and 320 picks per inch of 28's weft.
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27 Marls
A woollen fancy yarn produced from differently coloured rovings which are blended so that the finished yarn has the appearance of having been made from two differently coloured threads twisted together. It is made either single or two-fold. -
28 Marocain
A dress fabric, plain weave, woven from crepe yarns. The finished cloth has a crinkled appearance caused by the special yarns. The warp ends are half right and reverse twist and drawn in 2 & 2 up to 6 & 6. A softer spun weft is used. They are dyed and printed, and many jacquard effects are woven. One quality is 44 ends and 60 picks per inch, 40's T., 40's W., all Egyptian cotton. Marocains are also made in silk and wool mixtures and rayon. -
29 Melton
A heavy smooth cloth, made all wool or from cotton warp and wool weft. Woven 76-in. to So-in, to finish 50-in. to 56-in. wide, and about 24-oz. per yard. The cloth is raised and cropped and very heavily milled. The 2 & 2 twill is used, especially in the all-wool styles. Meltons, kerseys and tweeds for coatings and uniforms are very similar in appearance when finished. Fig. A gives a popular design on 4-shafts and 8 picks, made 82-in. wide to finish when milled and dyed 58-in. wide, wool yarns 28 yards per dram warp and 22 yards weft. The warp is openband (twist to the left) and the weft crossband (twist to the right) and soft spun. Reed 4 in a dent 52-ends per inch, 80 picks per inch, weight 32-oz. per yard. Design B gives a cheap style of Melton in which cotton warp and mungo weft is used. Made 80-in. to finish 54-in., 52 ends and 52 picks per inch, 2/40's Egyptian cotton warp, 7 yards per dram mungo weft. This cloth costs about 60 per cent less than the above.
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30 Moire
MOIRE (see watering)A term applied to the watered appearance given to cotton and other fabrics by the pressure of engraved rollers which displaces or flattens the threads. The different finishers give trade names to their work; and a moire-finished cloth is generally known by, the trade term of the finisher. -
31 Acres, Birt
SUBJECT AREA: Photography, film and optics[br]b. 23 July 1854 Virginia, USAd. 1918[br]American photographer, inventor and pioneer cinematographer.[br]Born of English parents and educated in Paris, Acres travelled to England in the 1880s. He worked for the photographic manufacturing firm Elliott \& Co. in Barnet, near London, and became the Manager. He became well known through his frequent lectures, demonstrations and articles in the photographic press. The appearance of the Edison kinetoscope in 1893 seems to have aroused his interest in the recording and reproduction of movement.At the beginning of 1895 he took his idea for a camera to Robert Paul, an instrument maker, and they collaborated on the building of a working camera, which Acres used to record the Oxford and Cambridge Boat Race on 30 March 1895. He filmed the Derby at Epsom on 29 May and the opening of the Kiel Canal in June, as well as ten other subjects for the kinetoscope, which were sold by Paul. Acres's association with Paul ended in July 1895. Acres had patented the camera design, the Kinetic Lantern, on 27 May 1895 and then went on to design a projector with which he gave the first successful presentation of projected motion pictures to take place in Britain, at the Royal Photographic Society's meeting on 14 January 1896. At the end of the month Acres formed his own business, the Northern Photographic Company, to supply film stock, process and print exposed film, and to make finished film productions.His first shows to the public, using the renamed Kineopticon projector, started in Piccadilly Circus on 21 March 1896. He later toured the country with his show. He was honoured with a Royal Command Performance at Marlborough House on 21 July 1896 before members of the royal family. Although he made a number of films for his own use, they and his equipment were used only for his own demonstrations. His last contribution to cinematography was the design and patenting in 1898 of the first low-cost system for amateur use, the Birtac, which was first shown on 25 January 1899 and marketed in May of that year. It used half-width film, 17.5 mm wide, and the apparatus served as camera, printer and projector.[br]Principal Honours and DistinctionsFellow of the Royal Photographic Society 1895.Bibliography27 May 1895 (the Kinetic Lantern).9 June 1898 (the Birtac).Further ReadingJ.Barnes, 1976, The Beginnings of the Cinema in England, London. B.Coe, 1980, The History of Movie Photography, London.BC -
32 Bouton, Georges Thadé
SUBJECT AREA: Automotive engineering[br]b. 22 November 1847 Paris, Franced. November 1938[br]French pioneer in automobile manufacture.[br]Bouton was the son of a painter and learned mechanics at Honfleur and Paris. In 1870 he was fighting in Les Mobiles de Calvados, and in 1881, having finished his training, he joined his brother-in-law, Trepardoux, to open a workshop in rue de la Chapelle for the construction of steam engines for scientific toys. The comte de Dion discovered the workshop and became associated with it in 1882. They also built steam-boilers for automobiles. In 1883 they built their first quadricycle, and in 1887 their first steam tricycle. These were followed in 1892 and 1893 by a car and a steam tractor. After the appearance of the petrol engine they put in hand a star-shaped four-cylinder engine of this type, but it was not until 1895 and 1898 that the first de Dion-Bouton single-cylinder tricycle and their petrol bicycle, respectively, came out. From 1899 the manufacture of de Dion-Bouton was concentrated on the voiturette. Georges Bouton was responsible for the manufacture of all these machines and took part in the first motor races.[br]Further Reading1933, Dictionnaire de biographie française.IMcN -
33 لمسة أخيرة
لَمْسة أخيرة \ finish: the appearance or condition of having been properly finished, with paint, polish, etc.: the beautiful finish of old French furniture. -
34 χρυσός
χρυσός, οῦ, ὁ (Hom.+; ‘gold’, both as a raw material and as a finished product)① gold as raw material, gold. As an esp. precious material AcPl Ha 2, 24; w. frankincense and myrrh Mt 2:11; GJs 21:3. W. silver PtK 2 p. 14, 14 (TestJob 25:6; Ath. 15, 1), and precious stones 1 Cor 3:12; Rv 18:12; AcPl Ha 1, 11 (JosAs 2:7). Refined in the furnace (w. silver) MPol 15:2. Of wreaths ὅμοιοι χρυσῷ with appearance of gold Rv 9:7.ⓐ gold ornaments 1 Ti 2:9 v.l.; Rv 17:4 v.l.; 18:16 v.l. (s. χρυσίον).ⓑ gold thing, of a cult image Ac 17:29; 2 Cl 1:6.ⓒ coined gold, money (Demosth. 9, 42), w. ἄργυρος (q.v.) Mt 10:9. This may also be the mng. in Js 5:3 and Mt 23:16f, though vessels of gold may be meant.—Pauly-W. VII 1555–78; Kl. Pauly II 841f; BHHW I 852f; RAC XI 895–930.—B. 610. DELG. M-M. EDNT. TW.
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