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61 Barcan
A heavy ribbed fabric formerly made in Holland, it has a three-fold warp, one thread silk and two of goat's hair, and a threefold weft of angora wool yarn. The weft forms ribs across the width. -
62 Basket Weaves
An extension of the plain weave, both in the length and width, and giving a matt weave; also known as "hopsack weave." When this principle is extended to 16-shafts or more the floats of warp and weft are stitched to bind the design to give a firm fabric, these are fancy basket weaves as used in the woollen and worsted trades. -
63 Beaver (Castor)
An overcoating cloth with one face sheared, heavily milled and nap-raised finish. It has a soft handle, and made of fine-grade wool as an imitation of beaver's fur. Now used for making hats, uniforms, etc. Two warps and two wefts are used of good quality wool. The weave is the 4-end sateen, two face and one back picks. A cloth woven 100-in, would be finished to about 56-in. wide. The finishing process is a special one, and the fabric shrunk considerably during finishing in both width and length. Many imitations have a cotton warp and shoddy weft. -
64 Bitting
The weaving shed term for the process of increasing the width of the fabric in the loom. Additional warp threads are drawn through the harness at the sides. -
65 Blanket Shawls Or Rugs
Fabrics made of two-fold cotton warp and woollen weft in length from 60-in. X 64-in. to 68-in. X 76-in. for the natives of West and East Africa and some South American markets. They are woven from simple twill and sateen weaves and made reversible. The designs are mostly conventional and developed in coloured wefts. There will be a dark figure on a light ground on one side, and this will be reversed on the other. All qualities are shipped in both fine and coarse wools. During finishing the fabric shrinks from 10 to 30 per cent. in width, according to the type of wool weft used, and are raised to give a pile surface.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Blanket Shawls Or Rugs
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66 Box Cloth
A woollen fabric heavily milled, dress-face finish, and resembles felt. Woven 2 X 2 twill, about 32 to 36 ends and picks per inch, from dyed yams. The shrinkage is nearly one-third of the width and one-quarter of the length. -
67 Brassiere Cloth
A fabric used for the corset trade, woven on dobby or jacquard looms, from super quality yarns and usually with stripes in the warp, from rayon or 2/40's mercerised cotton yarn. When rayon is used, the designs are such that no long floats are shown. A standard quality is 36-in. grey, 84 X 76 per inch, 22's weft, 28's cotton, 150 denier rayon (or 2/40's mercerised for 150 denier), piece-dyed in pink and other light colours. Another cloth shipped to U.S.A. is made 37-in., 92 X 68, 20's/20's super American yarns with rayon stripes and plain stripes alternating, 1/2-in. to 1-in. in width. -
68 Burgos
A cotton fabric made in the Madras Presidency. Plain weave, about 28-in. in width, of the shirting type, dyed blue. -
69 Buz
A plain weave cotton fabric woven on the native hand looms in Turkestan, in pieces of 10-in. or 11-in. in width, several being stitched together. Used for shirts, etc. -
70 B. Twills
B. TWILLSA heavy fabric for bags, sacks, etc., made of jute yarns, 44 in. wide, in 2 X 1 twill weave. The warp is two-fold, 10-lb. per spindle, and weft about 32-lb. per spindle. There are three blue stripes in the width of the cloth. -
71 Caro Cloth
A carded woollen fabric produced by special automatic machinery by the Caro Cloth Corporation. The cloth can be embossed or rubberised. It is cheap and resists wear. Used for overcoats heavy suitings etc. A cotton yarn base is used and the wool is ' needled ' into this base. The four rows of needle bars operate at 600 penetrations per minute. The sheets of wool fibres can be as thick or thin as required. The Caro fabrics can be produced very cheaply. When it is fulled the felting action is at right angles to the length and width and the more it is fulled, the stronger it becomes. -
72 Cocoa Binding
A narrow fabric made of cocoanut fibre and used for upholstery binding, about 1850 to 1880. It was 2-in. to 3-in. in width, and had about 30 warp threads and 24 wefts threads per inch. -
73 Corkscrew Cloth
A wool dress fabric in a twill or diagonal weave. Two fold worsted yarns are used for both warp and weft. The corkscrew effect is obtained by using a weave of the type indicated by No. 13 which shows a standard corkscrew weave of 13 shafts. The cloth is usually made wide 68 in loom width to finish 56 in. A usual quality has 100 ends and 60 picks per inch, 2/48's T., 2/30's W., worsted. A cheaper quality with single weft has 92 ends and 72 picks per inch, 2/40's T., 14's W. worsted. Woven four ends in a dent and clear finished to weigh 23 oz. per yard
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74 Crepe Meteore
A fine French all-silk fabric made from very fine silk yams in 2 & I twill weave. Only the weft is crepe and it is used two right, two reverse. Cloth width is 43-in. to finish 39/40-in. There are 220 (double ends) and from 80 up to 100 picks per inch. Owing to the large number of ends it is woven on six shafts, giving a warp face. It is piece-dyed and finished to give a lustrous face. -
75 Crepe-De-Chine Travers
A crepe fabric made with fine and coarse wefts. The thick picks are inserted about every 3/16-in. to form a rib stripe across the width.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Crepe-De-Chine Travers
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76 Crinoline
A fabric used as stiffening for dress purposes, width 18-in. to 22-in.,made of horsehair and cotton yarns. An all-cotton variety is made with hard-twist warp. During the Second Empire m France (1852-1870) and the same, or Mid-Victorian, period in England, skirts stiffened with this material and held out with hoops were called crinolines. -
77 Drap D'alma
A dress or suiting material made in 56-in width of firm, fine worsted yarns, in a twill weave about 60 ends and 84 picks per inch, 48's T., 70's W. The weave is a double-line twill. The fabric is piece-dyed and clear finished mostly in black, but dark brown and blue are also seen. -
78 Emperor Lining
A union lining fabric of good quality, woven from a cotton warp and lustre worsted weft in a fancy twill weave. Usually 60-in. in the loom to finish 54-in., or 50-in. loom width to finish 44-in. A fair sample is made 80 ends and 80 picks per inch, 40's Egyptian cotton warp, 30's worsted weft. The picks vary according to price. -
79 Gambroons
A plain matting cotton cloth shipped to India and used for clothing, hangings and many domestic purposes. About 26-in. in width, 60 ends and 60 picks per inch, 16's T., 16's W., or 58-ends and 56 picks per inch, 14's T., 12's W. The colours are varied, but some are warped 2 blue, 2 black, two ends to a heald eye. A linen fabric also known as Gambroons is much used for light-weight suitings, for warm climates. It is made in 3-shaft or 4-shaft twills and either white or cream. About 72 ends and 72 picks per inch, 80's T., and 80's W. linen. -
80 Greek Checks
A low quality check fabric, all cotton, about 64 ends and 58 picks per inch, 36's T., 36's W., made for the Near East markets in width, 48-in. splits, 36-in. and 29-in. single widths. The designs are of the tartan character, nearly all colour. The cloth is stiff finished.
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