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121 Sett Systems
The number of warp threads per inch or other unit of measurement is termed the " sett." There are at least 14 different sett systems and each is denoted by the locality in which it is used. Bradford System - Number of beers of 40 threads in 36-in. Thus 72 sett Bradford = 72 X 40: 36 = 80 ends per inch. Leeds - Number of porters of 38 threads in 9-in. Thus 12 porter sett = 12 X 38: 9 = 5.06 threads per inch. Huddersfield - Dents per inch X ends per dent, thus 16's reed 3's means that there are 16 dents per inch with 3 threads per dent = 48 threads per inch. Dewsbury - Number of beers of 38 threads in 90-in. Bolton - Number of beers of 40 threads each in 241/4-in. Manchester - Number of splits of two threads each in 36-in. Stockport - Number of dents of two threads in 2-in. The Stockport sett is the most convenient as the reed count or sett indicates directly the number of threads per inch in the reed without calculation providing the reeding is uniformly two ends per dent. Blackburn - Number of beers of 40 threads in 45-in. Glasgow - Number of dents two threads per dent in 37-in. Scotch Tweed - Number of porters of 40 threads in 37-in. Linen (Ireland) - Number of dents of two threads each in 40-in. These are given as 1200, 1400, etc. Sett 1200 for example has 1,200 X 2: 40 = 60 threads per inch. Silk - Number of dents in 36-in., thus 1,200/4 silk sett = 1,200 X 4 - 36 = 133 ends per inch. -
122 Silk Fabrics
The Silk Association of Great Britain and Ireland, Inc., has formulated the following definitions of " Silks ": - (1) Silk means the natural product of the silkworm, whether net, spun, or schappe silk. (2) Woven or knitted textiles and articles made therefrom. Silk goods may only be so called if they contain no other fibre than silk. They may be further qualified as pure silk goods if they contain no tin weighting and no added weight of any kind other than that which is an essential part of dyeing and finishing. (3) The word silk may be used for articles containing silk and other fibres provided it is clearly qualified, as for example, silk warp taffeta, silk warp poplin, silk pile velvet, silk mixture, silk union, etc. (4) Smallwares, certain smallwares containing silks in combination with other fibres (such as Paris bindings, gimps, eyeglass cords, etc.), have been by long established custom known as "silks." Only where there is a clear long established custom may they continue to be described as silk, otherwise the general principles set forth above will apply. The more generally known silk fabrics are as given below: - Armures - Barathea, Loisine, Natte, Ottoman, Roy ale. Repp. Figured Silks - Arras, Broche, Brocatelle, Brocades, Chevron, Chine warp prints. Cote-line, Damassin, Foulard, Lampas, Matelasse, Striped tabaret. Satins - Duchesse, Meteor, Mervelleux, Peau de Soie, Radyimar, Raadames, Radium, Satin mousseline. Satin messaline. Satin lus-mineaux. Satin charmeuse. Satin de Lyon, Satin chine. Satin lumiere, Soleil, Soie de Devil. Twills - Serge, Surah, Sarcenat. Velvet, or pile weaves - Terry velvet frese, Utrecht, Velours de nord. Velours de chiffon, Velours de sabre. Silk warp, wool weft - Bengaline, Cotele, Crepon, Irish poplin, Popeline, Poplinette, Sultane, Sicilienne, Velours Victoria, Veloa-tine. Silk warp, cotton weft - Moirette, Polonaise, Satins, Satinet, Striped linings. Taffetas, plain weaves - Bengaline de Soie, Epingle, Faille Francaise, Glace, Gros grain, Gros de Tours, Gros de Naples, Gros de Suez, Lustring, Pongee, Poult de Soie, Royale, Tabaret, Taffeta mousseline. Taffeta chiffon. Crepe de chine, Ninon, tulle, voile, Marquisette, Moire onde. Moire Faconne, Moire Francaise, Moire Antique. -
123 Terylene
Synthetic textile fibre produced from a polyester derived essentially from terepthalic acid and ethylene glycol, it is the result of research work initiated by Calico Printers' Association, and carried out in their laboratories by Mr. J. R. Whinfield, assisted by Dr. J. T. Dickson and others. The qualities of polyester, and its potential value for fibre making, were recognised by the C.P.A., and patents covering the inventions were taken out by them. The subsequent research work on the chemical polymer and its conversion into a textile fibre was entrusted to Imperial Chemical Industries, who acquired an exclusive licence covering the whole world outside the U.S.A. From a given sample of the parent polymer it is possible to produce multi-filament yams of widely different characteristics by varying the physical and mechanical operations of the spinning and processing. Thus, for example, it is possible to obtain from the same polymer a yarn of low extensibility, but with outstandingly high strength (8 grams per denier or higher), or one of increased extensibility, but with lower strength. Notable property of " Terylene " is high resistance to light and heat and high initial elastic modulus. -
124 metaphor
['metəfə](a form of expression (not using `like' or `as')in which a quality or characteristic is given to a person or thing by using a name, image, adjective etc normally used of something else which has similar qualities etc: `He's a tiger when he's angry' is an example of (a) metaphor.) métaphore- metaphorical- metaphoric - metaphorically -
125 metaphor
['metəfə](a form of expression (not using `like' or `as')in which a quality or characteristic is given to a person or thing by using a name, image, adjective etc normally used of something else which has similar qualities etc: `He's a tiger when he's angry' is an example of (a) metaphor.) metáfora- metaphorical- metaphoric - metaphorically -
126 France
The continental European country with which Portugal has had the closest and most friendly relations since the Middle Ages and whose culture since early modern times has been the most important model for Portugal's culture. Beginning in the Reconquest, French groups assisted the Portuguese in fighting the Muslims, and Portugal's first royal dynasty was Burgundian. Various French religious orders settled in Portugal and brought new skills and ideas. Franco-Portuguese relations in diplomacy went through various phases after a virtual break between the two monarchies during the Hundred Years' War and Castile's campaigns to conquer Portugal up to the battle of Aljubarrota (1385), when France was the main ally of Castile. France gave Portugal vital assistance in the 16th and 17th centuries against Spanish aggression. French aid was given to Dom Antônio, Prior of Crato, who opposed Filipe's domination of Portugal, and to restoration Portugal during the War of Restoration (1640-68). With the important exception of the disastrous Napoleonic invasions and war (1807-11), Franco-Portuguese relations in diplomacy, trade, and culture were exceptionally good from the first quarter of the 19th century.In part as a response to unpopular Castilianization during Spain's domination, the Portuguese found French culture a comforting, novel foil and prestigious alternative. Despite Great Britain's dominance in matters commercial, diplomatic, and political under the Anglo- Portuguese Alliance, French culture and politics came to enjoy primary importance in Portugal. Even in commerce, France was Portugal's third or fourth best customer during the 19th century. Especially between 1820 and 1960, French influence provided a major model for the well-educated.A brief list of some key political, literary, philosophical, and artistic ideas Portugal eagerly embraced is suggestive. King Pedro IV's 1826 Charter ( A Carta) was directly modeled on an early French constitution. French models of liberalism and socialism prevailed in politics; impressionism in art; romanticism and realism, Parnassian-ism, and symbolism in literature; positivism and Bergsonianism in philosophy, etc. During the 18th and 19th centuries, the Portuguese language, including vocabulary and orthography (spelling), experienced extensive Frenchification. French became the second language of Portugal's elite, providing access to knowledge and information vital for the education and development of isolated Portugal.French cultural influences became pervasive and entered the country by various means: through the French invasions before 1811, trade and commerce, improved international communication and transportation, Portuguese emigration to France (which became a mass movement after 1950), and close diplomatic and intellectual relations. An example of the importance of French culture until recently, when British and American cultural influences have become more significant, was that works in French dominated foreign book sections in Portuguese bookstores. If Portugal retained the oldest diplomatic link in world history with Britain, its chief cultural model until recently was France. Until after the Revolution of 25 April 1974, the largest portion of Portugal's educated elite studying abroad resided in France and took French higher degrees. The pattern of Portuguese students in higher education abroad has diversified in the years since, and now a significant portion are studying in other European continental states as well as in Britain and the United States. Diplomatic posts in France rank high in the pecking order of Portugal's small foreign service. -
127 Socialist Party / Partido Socialista
(PS)Although the Socialist Party's origins can be traced back to the 1850s, its existence has not been continuous. The party did not achieve or maintain a large base of support until after the Revolution of 25 April 1974. Historically, it played only a minor political role when compared to other European socialist parties.During the Estado Novo, the PS found it difficult to maintain a clandestine existence, and the already weak party literally withered away. Different groups and associations endeavored to keep socialist ideals alive, but they failed to create an organizational structure that would endure. In 1964, Mário Soares, Francisco Ramos da Costa, and Manuel Tito de Morais established the Portuguese Socialist Action / Acção Socialista Português (ASP) in Geneva, a group of individuals with similar views rather than a true political party. Most members were middle-class professionals committed to democratizing the nation. The rigidity of the Portuguese Communist Party (PCP) led some to join the ASP.By the early 1970s, ASP nuclei existed beyond Portugal in Paris, London, Rome, Brussels, Frankfurt, Sweden, and Switzerland; these consisted of members studying, working, teaching, researching, or in other activities. Extensive connections were developed with other foreign socialist parties. Changing conditions in Portugal, as well as the colonial wars, led several ASP members to advocate the creation of a real political party, strengthening the organization within Portugal, and positioning this to compete for power once the regime changed.The current PS was founded clandestinely on 19 April 1973, by a group of 27 exiled Portuguese and domestic ASP representatives at the Kurt Schumacher Academy of the Friedrich Ebert Stiftung in Bad Munstereifel, West Germany. The founding philosophy was influenced by nondogmatic Marxism as militants sought to create a classless society. The rhetoric was to be revolutionary to outflank its competitors, especially the PCP, on its left. The party hoped to attract reform-minded Catholics and other groups that were committed to democracy but could not support the communists.At the time of the 1974 revolution, the PS was little more than an elite faction based mainly among exiles. It was weakly organized and had little grassroots support outside the major cities and larger towns. Its organization did not improve significantly until the campaign for the April 1975 constituent elections. Since then, the PS has become very pragmatic and moderate and has increasingly diluted its socialist program until it has become a center-left party. Among the party's most consistent principles in its platform since the late 1970s has been its support for Portugal's membership in the European Economic Community (EEC) and the European Union (EU), a view that clashed with those of its rivals to the left, especially the PCP. Given the PS's broad base of support, the increased distance between its leftist rhetoric and its more conservative actions has led to sharp internal divisions in the party. The PS and the Social Democratic Party (PSD) are now the two dominant parties in the Portuguese political party system.In doctrine and rhetoric the PS has undergone a de-Marxification and a movement toward the center as a means to challenge its principal rival for hegemony, the PSD. The uneven record of the PS in general elections since its victory in 1975, and sometimes its failure to keep strong legislative majorities, have discouraged voters. While the party lost the 1979 and 1980 general elections, it triumphed in the 1983 elections, when it won 36 percent of the vote, but it still did not gain an absolute majority in the Assembly of the Republic. The PSD led by Cavaco Silva dominated elections from 1985 to 1995, only to be defeated by the PS in the 1995 general elections. By 2000, the PS had conquered the commanding heights of the polity: President Jorge Sampaio had been reelected for a second term, PS prime minister António Guterres was entrenched, and the mayor of Lisbon was João Soares, son of the former socialist president, Mário Soares (1986-96).The ideological transformation of the PS occurred gradually after 1975, within the context of a strong PSD, an increasingly conservative electorate, and the de-Marxification of other European Socialist parties, including those in Germany and Scandinavia. While the PS paid less attention to the PCP on its left and more attention to the PSD, party leaders shed Marxist trappings. In the 1986 PS official program, for example, the text does not include the word Marxism.Despite the party's election victories in the mid- and late-1990s, the leadership discovered that their grasp of power and their hegemony in governance at various levels was threatened by various factors: President Jorge Sampaio's second term, the constitution mandated, had to be his last.Following the defeat of the PS by the PSD in the municipal elections of December 2001, Premier Antônio Guterres resigned his post, and President Sampaio dissolved parliament and called parliamentary elections for the spring. In the 17 March 2002 elections, following Guterres's resignation as party leader, the PS was defeated by the PSD by a vote of 40 percent to 38 percent. Among the factors that brought about the socialists' departure from office was the worsening post-September 11 economy and disarray within the PS leadership circles, as well as charges of corruption among PS office holders. However, the PS won 45 percent of the vote in parliamentary elections of 2005, and the leader of the party, José Sócrates, a self-described "market-oriented socialist" became prime minister.Historical dictionary of Portugal > Socialist Party / Partido Socialista
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128 Proof
subs.Sign: P. and V. σημεῖον, τό, τεκμήριον, τό, δείγμα, τὸ, P. ἔνδειγμα, τό, V. τέκμαρ, τό.Evidence, witness: P. and V. τεκμήριον, τό, P. μαρτύριον, τό.Test, trial: P. and V. πεῖρα, ἡ, ἔλεγχος, ὁ, P. διάπειρα, ἡ (Dem. 1288).Demonstration: P. ἀπόδειξις, ἡ.Make proof of: P. and V. πειρᾶσθαι (gen.), γεύεσθαι (gen.) (Plat.).Make proof of some one's friendship: P. λαμβάνειν τῆς φιλίας πεῖράν (τινος) (Dem. 663, cf. 1288).Give proof of: P. δεῖγμα ἐκφέρειν (gen.) (Dem. 679).Those who have given proof of much virtue and moderation in their career: P. οἱ... πολλὴν ἀρετὴν ἐν τῷ βίῳ καὶ σωφροσύνην ἐνδεδειγμένοι (Isoc. 147B).I gave proof of the good will I bore him: P. ἐπεδειξάμην τὴν εὔνοιαν ἣν εἶχον εἰς ἐκεῖνον (Isoc. 389B).Proof against bribery: use adj.: incorruptible.Be proof against, keep out: P. and V. στέγειν (acc.).met., not to yield to: use P. and V. οὐκ εἴκειν (dat.).Woodhouse English-Greek dictionary. A vocabulary of the Attic language > Proof
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