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81 Phulkari
PHULKARI, PHULCARIThe native term in the Punjab, India, for embroidery executed mostly on chadars, usually with silk, but sometimes with cotton or wool thread, in large bold floral patterns. Some of the best work is done at Amritsar. The richest designs enclose circular pieces of mirror-glass in the centres of flowers. There are three chief varieties: - (1) The true Phulkari having the design dispersed all over. (2) The so-called Bagh (meaning garden) where the entire foundation is embroidered with designs connected with each. (3) Chobes, borders only embroidered, plain centres. The stitches in each case are darning stitches from the back of the fabric. The name means flower (phul) embroidery (kari) -
82 Phulcari
PHULKARI, PHULCARIThe native term in the Punjab, India, for embroidery executed mostly on chadars, usually with silk, but sometimes with cotton or wool thread, in large bold floral patterns. Some of the best work is done at Amritsar. The richest designs enclose circular pieces of mirror-glass in the centres of flowers. There are three chief varieties: - (1) The true Phulkari having the design dispersed all over. (2) The so-called Bagh (meaning garden) where the entire foundation is embroidered with designs connected with each. (3) Chobes, borders only embroidered, plain centres. The stitches in each case are darning stitches from the back of the fabric. The name means flower (phul) embroidery (kari) -
83 Soie Platte
French floss silk embroidery yarn used largely for tapestry work as well as embroidery. Obtainable in hanks only in many counts and colours. -
84 kordon|ek
m sgt (G kordonku a. kordonka) (embroidery) floss, floss (silk), filoselle GB- haftować kordonkiem to embroider with floss (silk)The New English-Polish, Polish-English Kościuszko foundation dictionary > kordon|ek
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85 mulin|a
f sgt Włók. (silk) embroidery floss, floss (silk)The New English-Polish, Polish-English Kościuszko foundation dictionary > mulin|a
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86 Berlin Canvas
A matting fabric made from cotton for embroidery purposes. It is woven from coarse round yarns, weaving two ends as one and 2-picks in a shed, giving tiny squares as open spaces for the wool yarn with which it is embroidered. The original fabric (about 1820) was made of silk union yarns in white, black, claret and primrose colours. The threads had a strong cotton core with silk wound round it. -
87 Brick Stitch
Used in Ecclesiastical embroidery, and is a variety of couching made with silk, floss silk, or gold and silver threads. The stitches resemble a regular course of brickwork. -
88 Brocatine
A brocade fabric made of all silk, or silk and cotton, in which the design is raised from the ground to imitate couched embroidery. -
89 Chenille Cord
The chenille cord employed for embroidery and ornamental purposes. Usually of silk, but also of silk and wool and all wool. There are two sizes, Chenille ordinaire and then Chenille a Broder. Also known as chenille cord. -
90 Girdle
To " gird the loins " is a custom as old as the garments themselves. The girdles of the Saxons and Normans present no peculiarity of form or ornament, but those of persons of distinction were of the costliest materials, and occasionally ornamented with jewels. Girdles, later on, took many forms and were made of all kinds of materials, silk, cords of yellow and red silk, jewels and embroidery for ornament, girdles of gold and silver. They were also so strong that books, purses, daggers etc., were attached to them. The name girdle is now applied to a cord used for pyjamas, dressing gowns and other loose robes, and drawn round the waist and loosely tied. -
91 Kasheda
Same as Kasida. ————————KASIDA, KASHIDA, KASHEDA.Plain dyed cotton cloth of light weight, hand embroidered by natives in Bengal. Muga silk yarn is used for embroidering. The pattern is printed on the fabric in fugitive colours and the embroidery is around this pattern. The colour is washed out. A better quality has the Muga (or Moonga) wild silk weft instead of cotton. Principally made on hand looms in the Dacca district. The fabric is exported to Turkey, Egypt and Arabia for use as scarfs and turbans. -
92 Kasida
KASIDA, KASHIDA, KASHEDA.Plain dyed cotton cloth of light weight, hand embroidered by natives in Bengal. Muga silk yarn is used for embroidering. The pattern is printed on the fabric in fugitive colours and the embroidery is around this pattern. The colour is washed out. A better quality has the Muga (or Moonga) wild silk weft instead of cotton. Principally made on hand looms in the Dacca district. The fabric is exported to Turkey, Egypt and Arabia for use as scarfs and turbans. -
93 Kashida,
KASIDA, KASHIDA, KASHEDA.Plain dyed cotton cloth of light weight, hand embroidered by natives in Bengal. Muga silk yarn is used for embroidering. The pattern is printed on the fabric in fugitive colours and the embroidery is around this pattern. The colour is washed out. A better quality has the Muga (or Moonga) wild silk weft instead of cotton. Principally made on hand looms in the Dacca district. The fabric is exported to Turkey, Egypt and Arabia for use as scarfs and turbans. -
94 Khasida
Cotton muslin, hand embroidered by Mohammedan women in their leisure time. Figures are stamped on the cloth by small wood blocks in fugitive colour, and after being embroidered the colour is washed out. The cotton and silk thread are distributed by merchants and the finished work collected later. The embroidery thread is coloured silk and white cotton. Also known as Kasida. -
95 Longyi
A loin cloth native woven on hand looms in Burma, and worn by men and women. They are in many designs and qualities and all are about 34-in. to 36-in. wide and 72-in. long. Various names are given to the cloths according to the design. Such as Akwet, Bala, etc.; also see Lungi (1) ————————LOONGEES, LOONGHEES, LOONGYES, LOONGIES, LUNGIS, LONGYIThe shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 41/2 yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 91/2 yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use. -
96 Loongees
LOONGEES, LOONGHEES, LOONGYES, LOONGIES, LUNGIS, LONGYIThe shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 41/2 yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 91/2 yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use. -
97 Loonghees
LOONGEES, LOONGHEES, LOONGYES, LOONGIES, LUNGIS, LONGYIThe shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 41/2 yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 91/2 yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use. -
98 Loongyes
LOONGEES, LOONGHEES, LOONGYES, LOONGIES, LUNGIS, LONGYIThe shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 41/2 yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 91/2 yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use. -
99 Loongies
LOONGEES, LOONGHEES, LOONGYES, LOONGIES, LUNGIS, LONGYIThe shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 41/2 yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 91/2 yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use. -
100 Lungis
LOONGEES, LOONGHEES, LOONGYES, LOONGIES, LUNGIS, LONGYIThe shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 41/2 yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 91/2 yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use.
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