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41 Applique
These fabrics are constructed by sewing two cloths together. The thread that binds is worked in some design, and, after stitching the top cloth, is cut away round the stitches, leaving the required portions stitched. to the lower cloth. The illustration gives an applique effect with plain cloth squares on a crepe ground. This is a handicraft process
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42 Asticot Canvas
A dress fabric of an open weave plain style canvas with slubs in both warp and weft forming small knots. There is one slub thread to about 20 ground both ways. One form of asticot made with a cotton warp and rayon weft is fairly common. It is made 68 X 50, 32's / 150 den., the imitation slub effect is produced by a dobby; also made with slubs in the warp. -
43 Basket Braid
A trimming braid, made with five threads, each thread passing alternately under and over two threads, giving the small basket weave effect. -
44 Boucle Yarn
Has a curled or loop effect and largely used to produce the boucle cloth. These yarns are usually three-fold. May be produced by either of two methods. The yarn may be three-fold, and during doubling, one of the strands is delivered faster than the other two, or a two-fold yarn is prepared and one of the strands is fed at a greater speed to produce the loop, then this doubled yarn is twisted with a single fine thread which binds the loops in position. -
45 Cartisane
A strip of parchment used to give a raised effect to the patterns in laces. It is covered with silk or gold or other metal thread. As it is not durable it is used as seldom as possible. -
46 Coral Yarn
A yarn principally used for making ladies' and children's mittens. It is a light two-fold thread exceedingly hard twisted to give the coral effect. -
47 Diamond Braid
A narrow braid made with five warp threads, each thread passing alternately under and over two threads, producing a fine twill effect. -
48 Double Cross Stitch
In embroidery, two threads with knots over them stretched in herringbone shape, and another single thread interlacing also in herringbone effect which crosses the first threads.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Double Cross Stitch
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49 Double-Chain Stitch
A chain stitch consisting of two links or loops of thread combined as one. It is used when a heavier effect is desired than is given by the single-chain stitch.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Double-Chain Stitch
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50 Fagoting
A fancy way of joining the seams of light fabrics, producing openwork, the connecting thread running either in a zig-zag line or in ladder effect. In embroidery, consists in drawing out some of the threads and tying the cross threads. -
51 Hairline
The true hairline is a colour and weave effect in which fine lines one thread or one pick wide occur lengthwise or crosswise of the fabric. In the plain weave with the warp and weft both arranged one black, one white, alternately, lines can be made to run lengthwise or crosswise. By modifying the weave, checks can be made on the same principle. The worsted hairline is a popular trousering and made in many weights. One quality is 68-in. wide in the loom, 2/26's T., 2/30's W., both worsted. The shrinkage is about 15 per cent (see also Pinhead Checks) -
52 Mock Leno
An imitation gauze obtained partly by the method of reeding and partly by the weave. The simplest form is reeded three in a dent, with the weave A. If dents are left empty at the points G the open effect is more.
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pronounced. A typical cloth has 68 ends and 80 picks per inch, 30's warp and 32's weft. A coarser yarn can be used for the floating thread. Weave B shows a mock leno on 8 ends and 8 picks that is much used. -
53 Paripurr
PARIPURR, PARIPURZA silk or pashmina fabric, made at Amritsar and other places in the Punjab, having the face covered with small loops of fine thread similar to terry. The loop effect is obtained by inserting very thin canes across the hand loom. -
54 Paripurz
PARIPURR, PARIPURZA silk or pashmina fabric, made at Amritsar and other places in the Punjab, having the face covered with small loops of fine thread similar to terry. The loop effect is obtained by inserting very thin canes across the hand loom. -
55 Peluche Argent
French-made velvet, silk warp, with two picks of silk to one of silver thread. A silver chenille is inserted after every 10 picks to give the pile effect. -
56 Rivtere
The open effect produced by embroidering over or drawing the threads together on drawn thread work. -
57 Soie Ondee
A special silk yarn used for making gauze and other fabrics requiring a moire effect. The yarn is a two-fold one made by doubling a coarse and fine thread. This special yarn when woven into cloth produces the peculiar watered appearance desired. The coarse yarn is made from 6 to 8 grege threads. -
58 Spiral Yarn
A fancy yarn made up of two threads twisted tightly together, and round this a soft spun thread is spirally twisted. These several threads may be of different colours or counts. Two threads of different counts twisted together will also give a spiral effect, the greater the difference in thickness the more prominent is the spiral. -
59 Taffetas Glace
Silk fabric, plain weave, made of dyed yarns with weft a different colour to the warp to give a " shot " effect. The cloth has about 180 ends and 92 picks per inch, twofold warp and four-thread tram weft, about 13/15 denier singles are used. -
60 Torchonette
Coarse open cotton fabric made 24 ends and 24 picks per inch from a special 3/42's yarn which has a fine hard twisted cotton thread lightly twisted with it. The effect is a crinkled cloth.
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