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41 Barred Twist
A term used in America for a fancy doubled yarn composed of two twofold yarns doubled together. Either or both threads are printed in bars of colour. -
42 Cannelle Repp
A silk repp fabric made with two warps, one of single and the other doubled yarn. The single warp forms ground and the other floats over eight picks to form a small rib. The Canille is an imitation of this cloth. -
43 Laine Brodee
A coarse doubled yarn used as weft in French tapestry fabrics. -
44 Ondee
A French term for a doubled yarn, made of a fine and a coarse thread. -
45 Zephyr Silk Barege
Dress goods fabric made from worsted warp and silk weft, plain weave and printed. Alternatively, the warp may be worsted and silk doubled yarn with fine hard spun weft of worsted.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Zephyr Silk Barege
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46 Cabled Yarns
By this term is meant the redoubling of doubled threads. In a six-cord yarn three two-fold threads will be doubled or cabled together. The six-cord yarn could be made by using six single threads, but the resulting cabled yarn would not be as satisfactory as when two-fold threads are used. The cabled method gives a stronger, smoother and more regular yarn. Cabled yarns are used for the motor tyre trade. For tyre yarns the first doubling is usually five threads, doubled, with the twist in the same direction as the singles, then three threads of these five fold yarns are doubled together with the twist in the opposite direction. -
47 Mouline Twist
A fancy yarn composed of four threads doubled together. A hard twist two-fold thread is doubled with three other single threads in a reverse direction and with fewer turns per inch. These fancy yarns are also made of three threads doubled together in which case the hard-twist yarn is thicker than the others. Sometimes silk is used as one of the threads to give further character. -
48 device
1) устройство2) установка; агрегат3) аппарат4) механизм5) прибор; измерительное устройство7) компонент; элемент8) схема•devices identical in design — конструктивные аналоги;-
alphanumeric display device-
automatic exposure control device-
bubble memory device-
bucket brigade charge-coupled device-
decision-making device-
drilling bit feed device-
electrical device-
exposure control device-
Gunn-effect device-
Hall-effect device-
hard-copy output device-
household electrical device-
humidity detecting device-
hybrid-type device-
Josephson-effect device-
maneuvering propulsion device-
materials-handling device-
multiport device-
night observation device-
noise dampening device-
photoconducting device-
propulsion device-
protection device-
raster-display device-
registering pin device-
reversible film feeding device-
seed-feeding device-
supply reel braking device-
three-axis device -
49 Doubling
The twisting together of two or more threads to make a stronger or fancier thread. The operation consists in drawing threads from two or more cops or bobbins and twisting them together with the required number of turns per inch. This amount of twist varies considerably according to the purpose for which the yarn is required. Fewer turns are given to yarns for mercerising and hosiery, but yarns for sewing cotton or making healds require a great amount, 2/100's for instance, varies from 15 to 40 turns per inch. Many crepe yarns have 60 or more turns per inch. Doubled yarns possess greater strength and elasticity than a single yarn of the same weight (see Cop and Cop Doubled Yarns) -
50 Hosiery Yarns
(See knitting). All yarns used for knitting are termed hosiery yarns in Leicester, but in America only yarns actually used for knitted footwear come under this term. These yarns are much softer than required for weaving. Miscellaneous Yarns - Goat wools, such as llama and alpaca are employed in spinning. yarns for the knitting trade. Vicuna and camel yarns are used to a limited extent. Ramie yarn is specially employed for knitting gas mantle fabrics. Soft spun flax yams have been used for making underwear fabric. Chenille and other manufactured threads are used to a small extent in warp knitting. Composite yarns, such as union yarns - spun from a mixture of wool and cotton fibres; cordon yarns - cotton and worsted singles, doubled together; wool and rayon or spun silk, cotton and rayon or spun silk are largely used to produce self or two-colour effects. Fancy yarns, such as slub yams, voiles, and curled and loop yarns are also employed. Hosiery Yarns (Cotton) include condenser, hosiery, condenser lisle thread, mercerised and sewing cottons. Condenser yarns are spun in coarse counts from low-grade cotton, Indian and American. They are carded, condensed and mule spun, and possess little twist. Hosiery cotton yarns vary considerably in counts and qualities, practically all varieties of Indian, American and Egyptian being used in varying proportions to obtain suitable mixture for quality and price. Cheaper yarns are carded and mule spun. American and Egyptian cotton yarns are combed mainly with the object of removing seed particles. High-class Egyptian and Sea Islands cotton yarns are super-combed. The chief features of a hosiery cotton yam should be: (1) Regularity; (2) cleanliness; (3) fullness. Regularity prevents the making of cloudy fabric, showing thick and thin places. Cleanliness is essential, as the seed particles clog the eyelet hole in the yam guides and cause breakages. Fullness is desirable to cover the loop interstices. Elasticity and pliability are quite as essential as tensile strength. Yams are usually soft spun and if two-fold soft doubled, average twists in two-fold being 2/10's 61/2T., 2/20's 81/2T., 2/30's 10T., 2/40's 16T., 2/80's 20T. Softer twist less 25 to 30 per cent of average (T= turns per inch). Lisle thread is a comparatively hard-twisted and doubly-gassed thread in which there are no projecting fibres. It is always of a two-fold character, and the doubling twist varies from 24 to 34 turns per inch in 2/60's. It is used largely in the manufacture of ladies' hose tops and feet and for lace hosiery. Mercerised yams are used largely in the fancy trade, a comparatively soft twist again being employed. Sewing cottons for seaming, linking and making-up are specially prepared in two to six cord open and reverse twist. Woollen and Worsted Yarns include lamb's wool, wheeling, skein yarns, gala yams (woollens), worsted, crossbreds, fingering, cashmere, dry spun botany (see under each name). Worsted and crossbred yarns of various qualities are used. These yams are spun softly with " hosiery twist." The drawing may be open, cone or French, and the spinning may take place on cap, ring or flyer frames. The chief essentials of hosiery yarn are softness of fibre, fullness, minimum of twist consistent with the requisite tensile strength, regularity, pliability and elasticity. Cashmere Yarns, as used in the knitted goods industry, are spun from short, loose and weak wools as well as from better qualities by French drawing and mule spinning. A small proportion of real cashmere is used for outer garments. In recent years nylon yarns have been largely employed. -
51 Moulin
MOULIN, MOULINEE YARNA French term for doubled yarns, made of variously coloured singles. It is a grandrelle crepe worsted yarn in which there are usually two singles of contrasting colours. When woven they produce spot effects in the fabric. The yarn used is of a good quality tops and the counts of the singles are the same. An example is made of two single 50's with 32 turns per inch to give a 2/48's moulin yarn. -
52 Hargreaves, James
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]b. c.1720–1 Oswaldtwistle, near Blackburn, Englandd. April 1778 Nottingham, England[br]English inventor of the first successful machine to spin more than a couple of yarns of cotton or wool at once.[br]James Hargreaves was first a carpenter and then a hand-loom weaver at Stanhill, Blackburn, probably making Blackburn Checks or Greys from linen warps and cotton weft. An invention ascribed to him doubled production in the preparatory carding process before spinning. Two or three cards were nailed to the same stock and the upper one was suspended from the ceiling by a cord and counterweight. Around 1762 Robert Peel (1750–1830) sought his assistance in constructing a carding engine with cylinders that may have originated with Daniel Bourn, but this was not successful. In 1764, inspired by seeing a spinning wheel that continued to revolve after it had been knocked over accidentally, Hargreaves invented his spinning jenny. The first jennies had horizontal wheels and could spin eight threads at once. To spin on this machine required a great deal of skill. A length of roving was passed through the clamp or clove. The left hand was used to close this and draw the roving away from the spindles which were rotated by the spinner turning the horizontal wheel with the right hand. The spindles twisted the fibres as they were being drawn out. At the end of the draw, the spindles continued to be rotated until sufficient twist had been put into the fibres to make the finished yarn. This was backed off from the tips of the spindles by reversing them and then, with the spindles turning in the spinning direction once more, the yarn was wound on by the right hand rotating the spindles, the left hand pushing the clove back towards them and one foot operating a pedal which guided the yarn onto the spindles by a faller wire. A piecer was needed to rejoin the yarns when they broke. At first Hargreaves's jenny was worked only by his family, but then he sold two or three of them, possibly to Peel. In 1768, local opposition and a riot in which his house was gutted forced him to flee to Nottingham. He entered into partnership there with Thomas James and established a cotton mill. In 1770 he followed Arkwright's example and sought to patent his machine and brought an action for infringement against some Lancashire manufacturers, who offered £3,000 in settlement. Hargreaves held out for £4,000, but he was unable to enforce his patent because he had sold jennies before leaving Lancashire. Arkwright's "water twist" was more suitable for the Nottingham hosiery industry trade than jenny yarn and in 1777 Hargreaves replaced his own machines with Arkwright's. When he died the following year, he is said to have left property valued at £7,000 and his widow received £400 for her share in the business. Once the jenny had been made public, it was quickly improved by other inventors and the number of spindles per machine increased. In 1784, there were reputed to be 20,000 jennies of 80 spindles each at work. The jenny greatly eased the shortage of cotton weft for weavers.[br]Bibliography1770, British patent no. 962 (spinning jenny).Further ReadingC.Aspin and S.D.Chapman, 1964, James Hargreaves and the Spinning Jenny, Helmshore Local History Society (the fullest account of Hargreaves's life and inventions).For descriptions of his invention, see W.English, 1969, The Textile Industry, London; R.L. Hills, 1970, Power in the Industrial Revolution, Manchester; and W.A.Hunter, 1951–3, "James Hargreaves and the invention of the spinning jenny", Transactions ofthe Newcomen Society 28.A.P.Wadsworth and J. de L.Mann, 1931, The Cotton Trade and Industrial Lancashire, Manchester (a good background to the whole of this period).RLH -
53 Chain Twist
A fancy yarn composed of three threads, two are doubled and the third is added in a reverse twist (see Chain Yarn) -
54 Fil
The French term for thread or fibre. Fil au chinois - Waxed linen thread for sewing. Fil de crin - A heavy silk yarn (see Cordonnet). Fil d'emballage - Coarse pack thread. Fil d'ecosse - Cotton thread. Fil d'epreuve - A French-made linen fabric, in blue and white stripes or checks. Fil de Florence - Silkworm gut used for fishing lines. Fil de Japon - Reeled silk, from 3 to 15 filaments. Fil plat - French cotton yarn, bleached and used for embroidery. Fil re sayette - Combed wool doubled yarns, hard twisted for fabrics and slack twisted for knitting. Sometimes silk is mixed with the wool. Fil an Tonkinois - A very strong waxed linen thread used for heavy work. Fil de trace - A double thread used for outlining designs in applique or point lace fabrics. -
55 Assemble
Doubled schappe yarn made in France. -
56 Barrege
A mixture cloth of silk warp and wool weft with an open or gauze weave. Chiefly used as head coverings in religious ceremonies. Imitated recently with cotton warps, 64 X 52, 120's/90's botany. The illustration shows a cloth made 104 X 30 per inch, from a silk and fine worsted doubled warp and silk weft. The weft and worsted warp are dyed red, and the white silk warp gives a neat striping. Flaked yarn is often made use of for further effect -
57 Beige Serge
French woven serges, made in Poiton from natural coloured wools in black, brown or grey. Also imitations of cotton produced from doubled yarns spun of black and white, or grey and white, or yarn made from printed sliver, both plain and twill weaves are used. -
58 Cable Silk
A silk yarn used chiefly for trimmings, etc. It is a thrown silk, doubled and twisted similar to cordounet silk and very thick. -
59 Cashmere Shawls
French woollen manufacturers make a fabric on jacquard looms in many coloured effects from fine worsted and woollen yarns that they term cashmere shawls. At the best they are only imitations. ———————— The natives of Kashmir and Tibet have made these shawls for centuries, and they are, perhaps, the finest textiles known. They are made on hand looms from hand spun yarns of Pashmina wool. Either plain or twill weave, one or more colours, in numerous gorgeous designs and often being embroidered. A doubled warp yarn and single weft is usual, the weft being wound on small sticks to use as shuttles. There are numerous varieties, of which the most esteemed are Doshalla, Kussaba, Jamewar and Ulwan. The fabric is also used for gowns and dress purposes (see kasabeh, jamawar). The ornaments of the shawls are denoted by different names, viz: - Pala - The whole of the embroidery at the two ends. Hashia - The border, one at each side. Zanjir (or Chain) - Runs above and also below the principal mass of the Pala and confines it. Dhour (or Running Ornament) - Situated to the inside in regard to the Hashia and the Zanjir enveloping the whole field. Kunjbutha - A cornet ornament of clustered flowers. Mitton - The field or ground within the borders. Matton - The decorated part of the field. Butha - Generic term for flowers, especially the cone-like ornaments (see butha) -
60 Curling Selvedges
This is a fault that causes serious trouble to finishers and is due to the unequal distribution of the weft threads on the back and the face of the cloth. The remedy is to weave flat selvedges and this can be done by using suitable weaves for the fabric to be woven, and a weave that does not give a tight selvedge. Manufacturers can avoid curling selvedges and by a little experimenting at the beginning of the warp the right weave can be quickly obtained. Curling selvedges in wool, invariably present themselves in the making of heavily-felted cloths (e.g., the Army greatcoat), when the weave shows a preponderance of warp or weft on one side, such as prunelle crow or sateen. The defect is partly overcome by weaving the selvedges in warp cord, weft cord, or hopsack. For fulling, the piece should be doubled as a bag, with the face inside, and the lists stitched flat together; or two pieces may be put face to face and the lists stitched. This arrangement, by keeping the pieces flat, also prevents mill marks. Other causes are: The use for the selvedge of odd yam which mills quicker than the cloth itself, and curls as it becomes shorter. In such cases the listing yarn should be harder twisted, or warped a little longer. Narrow selvedges which cannot resist the one-sided pull of the weft in shrinking are drawn in and rolled. (French Army cloths are milled from 102-in. to 55-in. The lists in these are made with ten very thick twofold threads, two to three times as heavy as the single ground yam). Skying the listing threads too closely is a cause of the defect.
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