doubled+worsted

A stout worsted fabric, about 45-in. wide. This name appears to have been used because the yarn was doubled. Used during the 15th century.

A strong fabric used for women's shoes, made in the 19th century, of doubled worsted warp and wool weft. Made 18-in. wide.

(See knitting). All yarns used for knitting are termed hosiery yarns in Leicester, but in America only yarns actually used for knitted footwear come under this term. These yarns are much softer than required for weaving. Miscellaneous Yarns - Goat wools, such as llama and alpaca are employed in spinning. yarns for the knitting trade. Vicuna and camel yarns are used to a limited extent. Ramie yarn is specially employed for knitting gas mantle fabrics. Soft spun flax yams have been used for making underwear fabric. Chenille and other manufactured threads are used to a small extent in warp knitting. Composite yarns, such as union yarns - spun from a mixture of wool and cotton fibres; cordon yarns - cotton and worsted singles, doubled together; wool and rayon or spun silk, cotton and rayon or spun silk are largely used to produce self or two-colour effects. Fancy yarns, such as slub yams, voiles, and curled and loop yarns are also employed. Hosiery Yarns (Cotton) include condenser, hosiery, condenser lisle thread, mercerised and sewing cottons. Condenser yarns are spun in coarse counts from low-grade cotton, Indian and American. They are carded, condensed and mule spun, and possess little twist. Hosiery cotton yarns vary considerably in counts and qualities, practically all varieties of Indian, American and Egyptian being used in varying proportions to obtain suitable mixture for quality and price. Cheaper yarns are carded and mule spun. American and Egyptian cotton yarns are combed mainly with the object of removing seed particles. High-class Egyptian and Sea Islands cotton yarns are super-combed. The chief features of a hosiery cotton yam should be: (1) Regularity; (2) cleanliness; (3) fullness. Regularity prevents the making of cloudy fabric, showing thick and thin places. Cleanliness is essential, as the seed particles clog the eyelet hole in the yam guides and cause breakages. Fullness is desirable to cover the loop interstices. Elasticity and pliability are quite as essential as tensile strength. Yams are usually soft spun and if two-fold soft doubled, average twists in two-fold being 2/10's 6¹/₂T., 2/20's 8¹/₂T., 2/30's 10T., 2/40's 16T., 2/80's 20T. Softer twist less 25 to 30 per cent of average (T= turns per inch). Lisle thread is a comparatively hard-twisted and doubly-gassed thread in which there are no projecting fibres. It is always of a two-fold character, and the doubling twist varies from 24 to 34 turns per inch in 2/60's. It is used largely in the manufacture of ladies' hose tops and feet and for lace hosiery. Mercerised yams are used largely in the fancy trade, a comparatively soft twist again being employed. Sewing cottons for seaming, linking and making-up are specially prepared in two to six cord open and reverse twist. Woollen and Worsted Yarns include lamb's wool, wheeling, skein yarns, gala yams (woollens), worsted, crossbreds, fingering, cashmere, dry spun botany (see under each name). Worsted and crossbred yarns of various qualities are used. These yams are spun softly with " hosiery twist." The drawing may be open, cone or French, and the spinning may take place on cap, ring or flyer frames. The chief essentials of hosiery yarn are softness of fibre, fullness, minimum of twist consistent with the requisite tensile strength, regularity, pliability and elasticity. Cashmere Yarns, as used in the knitted goods industry, are spun from short, loose and weak wools as well as from better qualities by French drawing and mule spinning. A small proportion of real cashmere is used for outer garments. In recent years nylon yarns have been largely employed.

Dress goods fabric made from worsted warp and silk weft, plain weave and printed. Alternatively, the warp may be worsted and silk doubled yarn with fine hard spun weft of worsted.

A mixture cloth of silk warp and wool weft with an open or gauze weave. Chiefly used as head coverings in religious ceremonies. Imitated recently with cotton warps, 64 X 52, 120's/90's botany. The illustration shows a cloth made 104 X 30 per inch, from a silk and fine worsted doubled warp and silk weft. The weft and worsted warp are dyed red, and the white silk warp gives a neat striping. Flaked yarn is often made use of for further effect

Are usually spun from Leicester and Lincoln lustre wools. The counts are 26's worsted, 13 turns per inch. When doubled have ll turns.

French woollen manufacturers make a fabric on jacquard looms in many coloured effects from fine worsted and woollen yarns that they term cashmere shawls. At the best they are only imitations. ———————— The natives of Kashmir and Tibet have made these shawls for centuries, and they are, perhaps, the finest textiles known. They are made on hand looms from hand spun yarns of Pashmina wool. Either plain or twill weave, one or more colours, in numerous gorgeous designs and often being embroidered. A doubled warp yarn and single weft is usual, the weft being wound on small sticks to use as shuttles. There are numerous varieties, of which the most esteemed are Doshalla, Kussaba, Jamewar and Ulwan. The fabric is also used for gowns and dress purposes (see kasabeh, jamawar). The ornaments of the shawls are denoted by different names, viz: - Pala - The whole of the embroidery at the two ends. Hashia - The border, one at each side. Zanjir (or Chain) - Runs above and also below the principal mass of the Pala and confines it. Dhour (or Running Ornament) - Situated to the inside in regard to the Hashia and the Zanjir enveloping the whole field. Kunjbutha - A cornet ornament of clustered flowers. Mitton - The field or ground within the borders. Matton - The decorated part of the field. Butha - Generic term for flowers, especially the cone-like ornaments (see butha)

Several dress fabrics are included in this term and the common characteristic is that they are woven in the Mayo twill weave. They are all of super qualities and made with botany weft in each case, but the warp may be silk, worsted or super doubled cotton yarns.

A French term for doubled yarns, made of variously coloured singles. It is a grandrelle crepe worsted yarn in which there are usually two singles of contrasting colours. When woven they produce spot effects in the fabric. The yarn used is of a good quality tops and the counts of the singles are the same. An example is made of two single 50's with 32 turns per inch to give a 2/48's moulin yarn.

A French term for doubled yarns, made of variously coloured singles. It is a grandrelle crepe worsted yarn in which there are usually two singles of contrasting colours. When woven they produce spot effects in the fabric. The yarn used is of a good quality tops and the counts of the singles are the same. An example is made of two single 50's with 32 turns per inch to give a 2/48's moulin yarn.

A term now applied to many qualities of fabrics in various yarns. Its chief characteristic is a series of fine ribs running across the cloth from selvedge to selvedge. The weave is plain. Irish poplin is made with 260 ends per inch of 40 denier silk warp and 48 picks per inch of 3/40's worsted weft. Irish poplin dates from the early part of the 18th century. There is now a great trade in cotton poplin for use as shirtings, pyjamas, dress goods, casements, etc. The original cotton poplin was made with 2/100's combed and gassed Sakel. warp 19/20 turns per inch, 2/100's combed and gassed Sakel. weft, doubled twist on twist with 36/40 turns per inch, 148 ends and 78 picks per inch finished. Shirtings were made in two widths, 37-in. grey for 35/36-in. finished and 32¹/₂-in. grey for 31/32-in. finished. Fine poplins are sometimes woven in six or eight shafts to minimise warp breakages during weaving, but they can be quite well woven on four shafts. Cotton poplins are now made in many cheaper qualities than those given above, in which many expedients have been adopted, such as reducing the number of ends and/or picks per inch, using single yarns instead of two-fold, and so on. Some of the lower qualities are as follows: - The last example * is a casement poplin.

These are worsted yarns spun from fine crossbred wool on flyer frames and doubled. Used for making men's navy-blue suitings, etc.

These are of two classes, plain and ribbed. The plain is formed from satin weaves which are doubled or trebled, giving a very close intersection of threads and producing very strong fabrics. The ribbed is made by adding a plain weave to a warp rib weave, the warp being arranged so that the ribs are alternately right and left-hand twist. The cloths are bleached and dyed for China and other Far Eastern markets. They are made all-cotton or all fine worsted yarns. Representative cloths are made: - Ribbed soleils are a form of ottoman, but have a smaller rib effect.