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121 Dress Linens
All-flax yarns are used for these dress fabrics, the yarns are boiled and bleached, and used in self-colours. Colours are always pale shades of pink, blue, hello, fawn and creams. Single and doubled yarns vary according to quality. Weaves are mostly plains, matts and twills. -
122 Ducks, Linen
DUCKS, LINENThese are woven in the 2 & 2 matt weave, 26-in. wide, from coarse flax yams in many weights. The fabric used for tent cloth is made from doubled yarns about 30 to 40 ends and picks per inch. The yarns are all boiled and softened. -
123 Faults In Cloth
There are many faults in grey cloth received from the loom and for which the manufacturer is held responsible. The most troublesome are those mentioned hereunder: - Warp Faults - Ends missing, floating ends, reedy, bare or badly covered cloth, faulty selvedges, oil stains, thick and thin places (see under each term). Weft Faults - Oil stains especially in doubled yarns, looped or ballooned weft, weft-bars, floats, thick and thin places, traps or smashes, box-marks (see under each term) -
124 Folded Yarn
Another term for doubled yarns. Yarns may be folded to increase strength, to produce special twist effects or to produce grandrelle effects. -
125 Lyons Satin
A fine quality of satin produced at Lyons having a silk back. It has a dull lustre face of doubled cotton yarn and is used for trimmings. -
126 Modena
A trade name for a tapestry fabric, made from cotton warp and chenille weft. Two warps of doubled and dyed cotton are used and the wefts are chenille and gold-colour rayon. Sett 34 threads per inch of each warp with 64 picks rayon and 16 picks chenille per inch. -
127 Moirettes
These are moreens, but of lighter warp yarns, such as 28's/40's, about 116 ends and 64 picks per inch. Very often doubled yarns are used, such as 2/60's warp, 2/36's weft. The finish is the same as for moreens. -
128 Moulin
MOULIN, MOULINEE YARNA French term for doubled yarns, made of variously coloured singles. It is a grandrelle crepe worsted yarn in which there are usually two singles of contrasting colours. When woven they produce spot effects in the fabric. The yarn used is of a good quality tops and the counts of the singles are the same. An example is made of two single 50's with 32 turns per inch to give a 2/48's moulin yarn.
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