crépon

A fine silk crepon formerly made in France.

See crepe, crepons and crisp ———————— Originally called crapes, and were always black and used for mourning purposes. It is a puckered or crinkled fabric. Special hard-twisted yarns are used, and when the cloth is washed or finished a crepe effect is produced which is permanent, due to the shrinkage of the special yarns. The cloths produced by what are termed crepe weaves do not pucker except when hard-twisted yarns are used (see Crepon). The following weave particulars are typical of true cotton crepes produced from crepe yarns in a plain weave and when finished the cloths shrink from 48-in. to 34/5-in. One has 48 ends and 42 picks per inch in the loom and gives 60 ends and 52 picks per inch finished. Warp and weft are 2/120's. The other is woven 38 X 46 in the loom and gives 56 X 60 finished, 100's warp and weft crepe yarns, with 2/80's colour. Both fabrics are picked two right and two reverse.

Originally called crapes, and were always black and used for mourning purposes. It is a puckered or crinkled fabric. Special hard-twisted yarns are used, and when the cloth is washed or finished a crepe effect is produced which is permanent, due to the shrinkage of the special yarns. The cloths produced by what are termed crepe weaves do not pucker except when hard-twisted yarns are used (see Crepon). The following weave particulars are typical of true cotton crepes produced from crepe yarns in a plain weave and when finished the cloths shrink from 48-in. to 34/5-in. One has 48 ends and 42 picks per inch in the loom and gives 60 ends and 52 picks per inch finished. Warp and weft are 2/120's. The other is woven 38 X 46 in the loom and gives 56 X 60 finished, 100's warp and weft crepe yarns, with 2/80's colour. Both fabrics are picked two right and two reverse.

Originally called crapes, and were always black and used for mourning purposes. It is a puckered or crinkled fabric. Special hard-twisted yarns are used, and when the cloth is washed or finished a crepe effect is produced which is permanent, due to the shrinkage of the special yarns. The cloths produced by what are termed crepe weaves do not pucker except when hard-twisted yarns are used (see Crepon). The following weave particulars are typical of true cotton crepes produced from crepe yarns in a plain weave and when finished the cloths shrink from 48-in. to 34/5-in. One has 48 ends and 42 picks per inch in the loom and gives 60 ends and 52 picks per inch finished. Warp and weft are 2/120's. The other is woven 38 X 46 in the loom and gives 56 X 60 finished, 100's warp and weft crepe yarns, with 2/80's colour. Both fabrics are picked two right and two reverse.

See crepon.

An Italian name for crepon made from silk warp, wool weft, or the reverse.

The natural waviness of the wool fibre. Uniformity and abundance of crimp indicate superior wool. The term is sometimes applied only to merino wools where the waves are frequent and sharply defined, leaving the term waviness to describe other wools not possessing this feature to such a high degree. ———————— One official definition gives this as a term synonymous with the French word " crepon." " A good crimp " means also a " good pebble " in finished crepe-de-Chines. The word " crimp " is sometimes used mistakenly instead of " take-up."

The term includes such types as the "blister" and the "crepon." These fabrics are used for the making of dress goods, and can be produced in five different ways, namely: (a) by making suitable combinations of slack and tight weaves; (b) unequal warp tension in weaving, the crimp forming warp threads being allowed to weave very slack; (c) by combining two materials having a marked dissimilarity of shrinkage power during wet finishing, i.e., botany wool and mohair; (d) by modifying the weave structure in such a manner as to drop some picks from the main fabric and allow them to float on the back, the effectiveness of this method is enhanced by using a hard-twisted, single weft yarn to assist the contraction; (e) chemical means, such as is produced by printing the cloth in stripes with caustic soda of about 20 per cent strength, thickened with some substance such as starch. The cloth shrinks where printed and the unprinted parts in puckering gives the crimp effect. By dyeing the cloth two tones are obtained as a darker shade is shown where the caustic soda appears (see crepeing and crimps)

A special finishing process used for cotton and worsted mixed fabrics and is a mercerising operation without stretch. The cotton yarn shrinks up to 25 per cent, giving a crepon effect to the cloth. The warps are usually end and end cotton and worsted with cotton weft.

The Silk Association of Great Britain and Ireland, Inc., has formulated the following definitions of " Silks ": - (1) Silk means the natural product of the silkworm, whether net, spun, or schappe silk. (2) Woven or knitted textiles and articles made therefrom. Silk goods may only be so called if they contain no other fibre than silk. They may be further qualified as pure silk goods if they contain no tin weighting and no added weight of any kind other than that which is an essential part of dyeing and finishing. (3) The word silk may be used for articles containing silk and other fibres provided it is clearly qualified, as for example, silk warp taffeta, silk warp poplin, silk pile velvet, silk mixture, silk union, etc. (4) Smallwares, certain smallwares containing silks in combination with other fibres (such as Paris bindings, gimps, eyeglass cords, etc.), have been by long established custom known as "silks." Only where there is a clear long established custom may they continue to be described as silk, otherwise the general principles set forth above will apply. The more generally known silk fabrics are as given below: - Armures - Barathea, Loisine, Natte, Ottoman, Roy ale. Repp. Figured Silks - Arras, Broche, Brocatelle, Brocades, Chevron, Chine warp prints. Cote-line, Damassin, Foulard, Lampas, Matelasse, Striped tabaret. Satins - Duchesse, Meteor, Mervelleux, Peau de Soie, Radyimar, Raadames, Radium, Satin mousseline. Satin messaline. Satin lus-mineaux. Satin charmeuse. Satin de Lyon, Satin chine. Satin lumiere, Soleil, Soie de Devil. Twills - Serge, Surah, Sarcenat. Velvet, or pile weaves - Terry velvet frese, Utrecht, Velours de nord. Velours de chiffon, Velours de sabre. Silk warp, wool weft - Bengaline, Cotele, Crepon, Irish poplin, Popeline, Poplinette, Sultane, Sicilienne, Velours Victoria, Veloa-tine. Silk warp, cotton weft - Moirette, Polonaise, Satins, Satinet, Striped linings. Taffetas, plain weaves - Bengaline de Soie, Epingle, Faille Francaise, Glace, Gros grain, Gros de Tours, Gros de Naples, Gros de Suez, Lustring, Pongee, Poult de Soie, Royale, Tabaret, Taffeta mousseline. Taffeta chiffon. Crepe de chine, Ninon, tulle, voile, Marquisette, Moire onde. Moire Faconne, Moire Francaise, Moire Antique.

A Chinese silk crepon with blue stripes. Woven on hand looms.

The largest designs of crepon showing a raised or puffed appearance. Souffle is the French for puffed up.