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21 Moreen
Originally a moreen was an all-worsted fabric made in Holland with cross ribs and had a moire finish. Now it is a repp cloth woven with coarse cotton warp, and fine cotton weft, and afterwards finished with a moire finish. The weft is much finer than the warp, and twice to three times as many picks as ends are used. Standard makes are: (1) 30-in., 118 yards, 46 ends and 108 picks per inch, 2/24's warp, 40's weft, T.W. 29-lb.; (2) 28-in., 90 yards, 44 ends and 100 picks per inch, 18's warp, 40's weft, T.W. 16-lb. -
22 Pekin Stripes
The term given to stripe fabrics in which the different coloured stripes are all the same width; generally silk cloths are meant, but cotton Pekin stripes have been made. The goods are for the China markets. In the Bradford trade, Pekin stripes are manufactured from cotton warp and worsted weft, in many stripe arrangements and numerous qualities. One cloth is made 48 ends and 58 picks per inch, 2/100's fast black cotton warp, 24's mohair weft.
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23 Russel Cord
A simple matting cloth with cotton warp, weaving two ends together, and fine worsted weft. The warp is weighted, and the weft does the bending, giving a rib effect. Used for summer coating, scholastic gowns, etc. It is a similar cloth to Persian Cord. The cloth was originally made of all-worsted yarns. -
24 Aleppine
A dress fabric of French make, has a silk warp and worsted weft in various colours. An imitation has silk and cotton warps and cotton and worsted wefts, in the 4-end twill weave. -
25 Kerseynette
A Bradford fabric, made of cotton warp, often two-fold yarn and fine wool weft in plain weave. Suchas 72 ends and 52 picks per inch, 2/40's cotton warp, 30's worsted weft. A variety made with silk weft is sometimes known under this term and used for suitings. -
26 Healds
This is a term applied to looped cords which are furnished with an eye in the centre and employed in looms for controlling the up and down movements of the warp threads. In the majority of cases there is a separate heald eye for each warp thread, and those healds which lift in the same manner are threaded on the same stave except in those cases where that would make the healds too crowded. In such cases the healds are divided on two or three shafts which may be tied together to lift as one if weaving conditions permit. Healds are formed by a knitting machine which is set to form the required number of heald eyes per inch on each stave, or in the case of spaced healds with the heald eyes arranged in the desired order on the stave. The yarns used may be cotton or worsted (see Hea'd Yarns). In knitted healds the eye is usually formed from the same yarn as the rest of the heald, but healds can be made with metal eyes. Metal healds are made of twisted wire galvanised or treated to be rustless, and formed with an eye in the centre for the warp thread and elongated upper and lower eyes for threading on flat steel bars that are secured to the heald staves proper at the top and bottom. Such healds are usually of the sliding type and eliminate the need for healds knit to pattern. Wire healds are also combined with knitting to give a prescribed number of eyes per inch.
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27 Horse Hair
The long, lustrous hair from the tails and manes of horses. Cleaning, dressing and curling operations are carried on at many points, but the production of horse-hair textiles is confined virtually to the West of England. The hair is woven to make carriage and furniture seatings, interlinings, flesh rubbers, rugs and carpets. In Bradford some success has attended attempts to use horse hair as a core for worsted yarn for interlinings. In Worcester an old-established firm has succeeded in making a continuous thread of horse hair, which is then used as weft, in combination with a cotton or worsted warp. Horse-hair lining cloths are manufactured in Philadelphia (U.S.A.), the material is also worked in Germany, notably at Leipzig. Horse hair is sorted over suction screens, and is dyed black with logwood. The hair is curled by being twisted into a rope, soaked two hours in water, and then baked for twelve hours at 350 deg. F. The hair is left for three days to cool. Long white uncurled hairs are used for violin bows and shorter hairs of the same colour for brushes and plumes. Fishing lines are made from the brown hair, and selected lustreless hair is used for lawyers' wigs. The United Kingdom, North and South America, Australia, Germany, Russia and China are the chief sources of supply. -
28 Salt, Sir Titus
[br]b. 20 September 1803 Morley, Yorkshire, Englandd. 29 December 1876 Saltaire, Yorkshire, England[br]English industrialist, social reformer and entrepreneur who made his fortune by overcoming the problems of utilizing alpaca wool in the production of worsted, and established the early model town at Saltaire.[br]Titus Salt arrived in Bradford with his father, who was a wool merchant in the town, in 1822. He soon set up his own company and it was there that he experimented with the textile worsted. Alpaca wool comes from an animal of the camel family that resembles the llama, and flocks of domesticated breeds of the animal had been raised in the high Andes since the days of the Incas. The wool was introduced into Europe via Spain and, later, Germany and France. The first attempts to spin and weave the yarn in England were made in 1808, but despite experimentation over the years the material was difficult to work. It was in 1836 that Salt evolved his method of utilizing a cotton warp with part alpaca weft. The method proved a great success and Bradford gained a reputation as a manufacturing centre for alpaca wool, exporting both yarn and cloth in quantity, especially to the USA. By 1850 Salt, who owned six mills, was Bradford's biggest employer and was certainly its richest citizen. He decided to move out of the city and built a new mill works, the architects of which were Lockwood and Mawson, on the banks of the River Aire a few miles from the city. Around the works, between 1851 and 1871, he built houses, a hospital, library, church, institute and almshouses for his workers. The buildings were solid, good-standard structures of local stone and the houses were pleasantly situated, with their amenities making them seem palaces compared to the slums in which other Bradford textile workers lived at the time. The collection of buildings was the first example in Britain of a "model new town", and was, indeed still is, a remarkable prototype of its kind. Apart from being a philanthropist and social reformer, Salt was also concerned with taking advantage of the technical developments of his time. His mill works, which eventually covered ten acres of land, was of fashionably Italianate architectural style (its chimney even a copy of the campanile of the Church of Santa Maria Gloriosa in Venice), although its structure was of iron framing. The weaving shed held 1,200 looms and had capacity for 3,000 workers, who produced 30,000 yards of cloth per day. Water from the river was used to produce steam to power the matchinery used in the manufacturing processes of scouring, dyeing and finishing. For the export of goods, the nearby Leeds-Liverpool Canal linked the works to Britain's chief ports, and the Midland Railway (an extension of the LeedsBradford line which opened in 1846) was of great use for the same purpose.[br]Principal Honours and DistinctionsCreated Baronet 1869.Further ReadingDictionary of National Biography.Visitors Guide to Salt aire, Bradford City Council.DY -
29 Duvetine
Is made from a twofold cotton warp and schappe silk weft in the 1 X 3 weft twill weave. Finished by raising, cropping and brushing the face of the fabric. Dyed grey and brown and looks like doeskin. Used for collars, trimmings, handbags, etc. The name is derived from the French word " duvet " meaning " down " and is thus meant to be a soft downy fabric. The finishing process is a specialised one as the cloth has to be washed, dyed, raised on the face by emery rollers, cropped, and singed in order',to produce a very soft and velvet finish. Also known as " Mouse-skin." Another variety is made with a worsted warp and tussah weft and slightly raised on the face; weave, 4-shaft twill, 1 X 3 lift, weft face, in 56-in. width. -
30 Duvetyn
Is made from a twofold cotton warp and schappe silk weft in the 1 X 3 weft twill weave. Finished by raising, cropping and brushing the face of the fabric. Dyed grey and brown and looks like doeskin. Used for collars, trimmings, handbags, etc. The name is derived from the French word " duvet " meaning " down " and is thus meant to be a soft downy fabric. The finishing process is a specialised one as the cloth has to be washed, dyed, raised on the face by emery rollers, cropped, and singed in order',to produce a very soft and velvet finish. Also known as " Mouse-skin." Another variety is made with a worsted warp and tussah weft and slightly raised on the face; weave, 4-shaft twill, 1 X 3 lift, weft face, in 56-in. width. ———————— A very soft woollen fabric resembling velvet and having a fine short nap that is raised during the process of finishing and gives the material a silky appearance. Used for coats, suits and dresses. -
31 Janus Cord
A black dyed dress material made with warp ribs. Composed of cotton warp and worsted weft and woven both sides alike. Made in 30-in. and worn as mourning. -
32 Jupon
(Jupe, French; Guipone, Italian) Gipon or Jupel. A military garment that succeeded the surcoat in the first half of the 14th century. Generally embroidered with the armorial ensigns of the knight, but was occasionally plain or diapered. The Jupon of Edward the Black Prince in Canterbury Cathedral is composed of fine buckram, quilted logitudinally in stripes about 3/4-in. thick, with velvet facing, originally blue and crimson and the fleur-de-lys and lions are embroidered in gold thread. ———————— A mixture dress fabric for cheap dresses. Made from cotton warp and wool weft. Shoddy is sometimes used. Plain weave, in many qualities. The original was made from silk warp and worsted weft. Also a petticoat skirt. -
33 Orleans Cloth
Also known as Lustre Orleans. It is a plain weave cloth with fine cotton warp and worsted weft. It is very closely woven and used for dress purposes. A typical cloth is made 60 ends and 140 picks per inch, 40's/56's Egyptian warp. Botany weft. This cloth was first made in 1856 by Mr. Barratt, who produced the cloth as "Summer Cloth" at the request of an American customer. He produced a plain weave cloth, diagonal twill, three-shaft twill and a crepe. -
34 Rhea
The stem fibre of the Boehmeria Tenacissima, a tropical variety of the B. Nivea which includes ramie. This name' is often wrongly applied to ramie. Rhea has been used since 1862 for textile purposes; in that year it was mixed with cotton, in 1875 with flax. Later, after being cut into suitable lengths it was spun on the worsted principle and used as weft in dress fabrics having a two-fold cotton warp. This cloth creased very easily. About 1872 it was mixed with wool which overcame the creasing tendency. Experiments have also been made to mix it with silk in England and Lyons. -
35 Umbrella Cloth
Fine cloth for covering umbrellas made from good quality long staple cotton. Usually 36-in. to 44-in. wide, 75 yards to 90 yards long, 96 to 110 ends and picks per inch, 30's to 60's warp and weft, plain weave. Some cloths have a coloured cotton or worsted selvedge, and some have an elaborate striped border. The selvedge of the cloth is of great importance so it is usually woven from separate bobbins (see Gloria) -
36 Australian Crepe
A dress fabric for export, made with a cotton warp and worsted weft. During finishing the shrinkage gives a crimpy effect. -
37 Bradford Beatrice
A lining cloth principally made in Bradford and dyed black and colours in wide widths, viz., 56-in. to 60-in., such as 90 X 78 per inch, 44's cotton warp, 28's worsted weft, in 4 X 1 twill (see Beatrice Twill for weave) -
38 Caroline Plaid
A plain weave fabric made of a two fold cotton warp and worsted weft - all dyed yarns In plaid check designs. Used for children s dress wear. -
39 Chusan
A dress fabric of cotton warp and worsted weft, with)acquard patterns. Of the 18th century. -
40 Crepe Rachel
A dress fabric with hard-twist cotton warp and coloured worsted wefts, formerly made in France.
См. также в других словарях:
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barege — /beuh rezh /, n. a sheer fabric constructed in a leno weave of silk warp and cotton or worsted filling, often used to make veils and dresses. Also, barège. [1805 15; after Barèges, town in southern France (Hautes Pyrénées)] * * * … Universalium
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textile — /teks tuyl, til/, n. 1. any cloth or goods produced by weaving, knitting, or felting. 2. a material, as a fiber or yarn, used in or suitable for weaving: Glass can be used as a textile. adj. 3. woven or capable of being woven: textile fabrics. 4 … Universalium
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Units of textile measurement — Textile is measured in various units, such as: the denier and tex (linear mass density of fibres), super S (fineness of wool fiber), worst count, and yield (the inverse of denier and tex). Yarn is spun thread used for knitting, weaving, or sewing … Wikipedia
